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Part 4 of 8第 4 部分，共 8 部分
Volume 3: Far Away, Yet Next Door, essays 1–5下集：天涯若比鄰，第 1–5 篇下集：天涯若比鄰，第 1–5 篇
簡介中原為英文的部分由 AI（Claude）於 2026 年 11 月譯成中文，尚未經作者審閱。
三冊原 PDF 共有 81 個字因字型缺字而無法顯示，本頁已依上下文補上，或有出入。
第叁章：天涯若比鄰
第1篇：原鄉之旅
上海行
前言：1970年代在台灣有本《旅行雜誌》我幾乎每期都看愛不釋手，緣起於我在大陸生活了十年，隨父親服務的部隊，歷經了抗戰、內戰，四處飄泊，看到的是被蹂躪過的破碎山河。
1950年到了台灣，學習、工作、生活了30年。在那個年代，能夠出國的僅限於留學生，有錢人家也很難到國外旅遊觀光。
我一直期盼有那麼一天，能夠到國外見識見識，並且回到闊別近70年的中國大陸，找回童年的記憶。
1980年，我暫時離別了父母，與妻兒一家人到了巴拿馬，想想也許很快就會回去，未料一待就是40年，巴拿馬20年美國20年。
我和妻托孩子的福，最近五年到了一些歐、美、東南亞國家旅遊，更有幸再度踏上久違了的祖國故土，圓了當年的夢想。（1)
本文：1950年代我在台灣唸小學，在常識課本上讀到上海是世界第五大都市。我不知道是怎樣評鑑出來，人口稠密、交通繁忙、工商發達、都市建設現代化，應該都在選項之內。
抗戰勝利後三年內，我曾兩次到上海。1946年父親軍職外調赴東北履新，路過上海停留三個星期。1948年12月，因徐蚌會戰情勢危殆，隨母親由青島避難上海。
1949年6月青島撤退，跟著父母隨軍到達海南。1950年1月，由海口到了台灣。時經65年，我再也沒有踏上中國大陸這塊土地。
1987年台灣地區宣佈解嚴，開放大陸探親。此後二十年間，父母曾四次到上海。2010年上海世博會母親五度登陸，躬逢其盛。弟弟妹妹、弟媳妹婿等數次出入大陸，唯獨我遲遲未歸。
我對錦繡河山始終有一種山遙水闊、世事茫茫、既戀又怯、既欲又懼，近鄉情傷的感覺。對上海的印象，一半靠回憶一半靠想像，想像來自父母的口述，補足了模糊的記憶。
想當年在上海，外灘車水馬龍，坐黃包車過外白渡橋，到大光明戲院看電影，到永安百貨買球鞋，扲著䁔水瓶幫媽媽到巷頭買開水，真如鄉下掘野薺菜等等，都烙印在兒時的記憶中。
長期以來媒體披露台胞回鄉的信息，不勝枚舉。老兵返家喜慶團圓、千里孤墳無處話淒涼、終身積蓄被親戚騙盡、生前託友人死後將骨灰罈送回原鄉的故事，時有所聞。
對我而言，諸多的客觀因素影響了主觀意識，原鄉之旅舉棋不定。（2）
2010年3月，我用了八個月的時間，寫完一篇6萬6千字的長文《十年流離看山河》，文內有一段是這樣寫的：長江戰事告急，上海危在旦夕，母親帶著孩子撘船折返青島。母親和我站在利春輪的船頭上，眺望大上海，在斜陽的催航下，黃浦江漸漸消失在視線之外。
想到這段往事，我在書中賦七言絕句一首，描述母親當時的感受。《黃埔江上白雲間，愁見孤城落日邊。吹笛何須怨楊柳，重逢時日待何年。》。心想時至今日已近耄耋之年，此生重逢大陸山川，恐無機緣。
2014年9月28日，Anderson從底特律來電告知，接獲福特汽車總公司人事異動公函，調派他至上海亞太總部服務，生效日為12月1日。
這一通喜從天降的電話，讓我們雀躍不已。感謝天主給我們家人的恩賜。一來小兒的工作能力受到肯定，二來重逢大陸的心願有了機緣，一道通往上海的大門已經打開。
福特公司喻Anderson就任前，先赴上海亞太總部了解，並覓妥居所，十月下旬完成。於是長兒Anthony在網上訂購了從洛杉磯經台北到上海的機票。十月七日我和妻搭上《原鄉之旅上海行》的飛機。(3)
10月8日晚抵達台北，此行先回家探望母親，在台18天陪伴母親，不作其他活動。次日適逢爸媽結婚75週年紀念，失去老伴有7年的母親深居簡出，聖堂修女到家為母親送聖體，求聖神降臨，全家人施以慈愛的照顧，永福的歡欣。
在台期間，母親追憶八年抗戰及國共內戰一路逃難的情景。她希望後生晚輩，傾聽爺爺奶奶、父親母親那一代人顚沛流離的故事，用文字表達出來。讓世世代代的中華兒女，銘記這頁悲壯的歷史。
10月26日，我與妻搭乘華航的班機直飛上海。我坐在靠窗的位置，見機身搖曳在白雲之上，臆想久別65年的錦繡山河，種種人事物。
飛機減速逐漸下降，盤旋在上海上空，清晰可見高樓林立，黃浦江上的遊輪穿梭。頗有《渚清沙白鳥飛回，不盡長江滾滾來。》的感受。腦際浮現的卻是2006年仲夏，父親病中吟出的那首絕句：青山綠水依舊在，月明故國九州同。神州復興統一日，家祭毋忘告乃翁。飛機着陸的那一刻，心情由平靜轉為激動。(4）
步出機門，視線之內皆是驚艷，眼前的浦東機場，建築美侖美奐、設計新穎，可稱世界一流。
在入境大廳等候小兒接機，他於三小時前，由舊金山經北京到達上海。見他神采奕奕迎面走來，此行是為了尋覓一處未來三年的住所，趁此請父母到上海一遊。
步出機場行走數分鐘，到達磁浮列車站。享受一次陸上最快速交通工具《子彈列車》的震撼，全長31公里，最高時速387公里，不設中點站，8分鐘可跑完全程。當時在中國大陸是一條示範營運線，如今(2019年）已有五條線擴至全國各地。
2019年5月24日，在山東青島測試更新一代的磁浮列車，最高時速可達600公里的目標，預計三至五年完成，屆時北京到上海只需三個半小時。
坐在快㨗、平穩、舒適的車廂裏，看窗外小河、木橋、田埂、池塘飛逝而過。眺望遠方的田野、農舍、樹林，在濛濛細雨中展現生機。腦海里油然而生1949年我在真如鄉下，那段挖掘野薺菜，拾菜幫子，撿枯枝竹葉當柴燒的日子。
那年春節前，母親帶著我到曹家渡採購年貨，交通工具卻是租用的腳踏車，客人坐在後座貨架上，車主揮汗踩車，行走在顚簸不平的碎石子路上。15公里的路程，用了兩個小時，踩車人和坐車人，同樣吃盡苦頭。比較兩種交通工具，不可同日而語。
走出磁浮龍陽車站改搭計程車，路過錦綉路，順世紀大道，經環球金融中心、金茂大廈，繞過東方明珠廣播電視塔，到達文華東方酒店。
所經之處高樓大廈聳入雲霄，都市美化有稜有角，展現在眼前的是，驚人的視覺感受。
上海浦東自1992年起，進行大規模有計劃的都市建設。只不過20餘年就脫胎換骨，媲美世界一流都市紐約、芝加哥。掘起的中國，突變中的上海，讓世人驚喜、驚訝、驚艷、驚奇。
我們住進酒店第21層樓，一間有客廳的房間，環顧各室佈置典雅、家具考究、燈光柔和，落地窗外的黃浦江美景，盡收眼底。頓時心曠神怡，遊途的疲憊一掃而光。
眺望對岸浦西外灘，夕陽從群樓後方下沉，俯瞰黃浦江水，濤濤東流入海，景氣壯闊氣勢渾宏。佇立窗前沉思良久，不知今夕何夕，恍如一夢。不禁想起一千三百年前，王之渙在蒲州(今山西省永濟市)黃河東岸鸛鵲樓上，眺望遠方原野，目送滾滾黃河，歌詠壯麗山河的那首詩《白日依山盡，黃河入海流。欲窮千里目，更上一層樓。》。
對岸遠方的國際客運中心碼頭隱約可見，65年前母親帶著孩子在那裏搭船，離開上海。回首過去世事無常，今日重逢又是另一層感受。（5）
入夜之前迫不急待趕赴碼頭，渡江前往外灘，藍天中已見月光。站立船舷飽覽兩岸風光，點點燈火像撒在玉盤中的珍珠燦爛奪目。見眼前景物百感叢生，有一股久客傷老之情。仿賀知章《回鄉偶書二首》，也作了一首詩，抒發內心的感受：離別原鄉歲月多，春風不改舊時波。年年江水向東流，人生世代笑談中。不知乘月幾人歸，落日搖情滿江紅。外灘燈火欲黃昏，渡頭隔江眺群樓。
來到了外灘，下了船順著蜿蜒的長堤向北行，綠地葱翠、和風吹拂、人群熙攘。對街風格迥異的古樓建築，鱗次櫛比，在絢麗多彩的霓虹燈光照射下，托映出它的蒼勁之美。
時光倒退到1946年，父母親牽著我的手，在外灘19號與南京東路交會處，橫越馬路。如今，孩子卻攙扶著我和媽媽，穿過同一條路同一個街口。順著南京東路西行五分鐘，到了和平飯店。(6)
和平飯店建於1906年(清光緒32年)，是一座頗具盛名的歷史建築。分南北兩樓，是富賈、政要、名流、觀光客長久以來聚會用餐觀景的好去處。它走過百年繁華，如今仍然貴氣十足。抗戰勝後，父親年甫三十，已官拜少校，翩翩風采，豪邁倜儻，曾攜眷用餐於此。今日我與內子、小兒同樣在此用餐，緬懷追思之情，油然而生。
孩子事前在網上訂妥餐廳座位，登樓坐定，雖不見40年代菲律賓藝人的樂隊演奏，卻聽到陣陣傳來的爵士音樂。小兒將68年的時空連結在一起，選擇和平飯店，作為我們來上海首次晚餐的地方，用意至深。
餐後至頂樓花園參觀，視野遼闊，上海全城璀燦奪目的美麗夜景，盡收眼底。
離去時，見底樓長廊兩側，陳列着這座建築鏡頭下的歴史光華，配以詳盡的中英文解說，記録下它百年來，變遷中的故事。
走出飯店西行至步行街，老字號茂昌眼鏡、老鳳祥銀樓、永安公司均歷歴在目。街兩旁花壇、藝雕、商店、攤販、賣藝人一應俱全。慢步其間沒有車輛的打擾，可以盡情享受燈光夜景、精緻美食、隨興購物的樂趣。是一種情趣與文化的體驗，在這裡不見紙醉金迷，卻見青春活力。
在返回浦東的渡輪上，見浦江彩舫穿梭，兩岸燈火如晝。海關大樓的鐘聲，節奏優美，和諧悅耳。來上海頭一天，我們享受了一個《夜空璀燦星如雨，繽紛絢麗九重天。世間煩囂皆可拋，此夜陶醉未入眠。》的夜晚。(7)
次日（2014年10月27日，星期一）上午九時，福特汽車亞太總部特約房屋仲介，一位30餘歲的徐姓年輕人，由一名王姓司機陪同，駕駛一輛雪佛蘭SUV來到酒店，開始一連五天的覓居租房行動。
徐先生大學學歴文質彬彬，英語說得不錯，見識很廣，從事房屋仲介已有12年，外商、外僑、領館官員是他服務的對象。司機王師傅，年近五十，浙江人，和氣待人，駕駛平穩純熟。
在酒店大廳，徐先生給我們作了五天行程的簡報，按小兒擬好的項目，包括高樓住宅、酒店公寓、花園康斗、觀景獨屋。就近先從文華東方酒店開始，逐一參訪。
在住房部經理邱女士的接待下，至各樓層瀏覽參觀。小兒邊看邊問，勤作筆記，在自繪自製的表格上，勾圈記號，節省了不少時間，而且實景攝影備查。隨後至浦東香格里拉、瑪麗奧堤兩酒店參訪，下午四時結束首日行程。
我有一套西裝，需要改小，小兒的新同事給了一個地址，是一座位於南浦大橋附近的服飾商場大樓，從選樣、購料、量身、製作，一條龍作業。各樓層近兩百家店面，任君挑選，料美精工價錢公道。
我們選擇搭乘地鐵前往，步行至陸家嘴車站上車，來一次上海地鐵經驗。與紐約、洛杉磯、台北的㨗運做一比較。
陸家嘴站與南浦大橋站皆是大站，硬體設備新穎，超越紐約、洛杉磯，與台北不分上下。遺憾的是，內急難以入廁，清潔度不如台北。殘障通道不易找尋，搭乘升降機要事前申請。上下車秩序更是凌亂，爭先恐後碰撞難免，未聽任何歉意。老弱婦孺座位形同虛設，多半被年輕人霸佔。車廂內有一則警語廣告《守秩序，講文明，老外也不例外。》很經典，頗有創意，讓人莞爾。
按址來到修改西裝的朱師傅處，助理以咖啡招待。量身僅五分鐘完成，三天後取件，保證合身。
朱師傅的爺爺，1949年與同儕前往香港謀生，手藝傳給其父。三十年後改革開放，袓國各項建設蒸蒸日上，上海飛速倔起。老爺爺返郷心切，1998年舉家回鄉。朱師傅傳承祖業，接續經營，闖出名號。朱家經歷，引證了上海西裝師傅的一段遷徙史。
入夜之後回到陸家嘴，摩天大樓接星連月，燈光絢麗迷離如幻，與十里洋場的老上海落差很大。陸家嘴原是荒涼一片，老一輩的上海人常說《寜要浦西一張床，不要浦東一間房。》如今親眼目睹這塊浦江東岸新城，在歐美文化時代巨變衝擊之下，建設之快速，力道之猛烈，嘆為觀止。(8）
第三天(10月28日，星期二)，上午九時三十分，徐先生來到酒店大廳，繼續行程。先到濱江花園公寓，再赴浦西高樓住宅，隨後至上海市出入境檢疫局附設醫院，完成外商外僑長期居留體檢。
車經愚園路，小兒眼明語快，驚呼《右前方，右前方，百樂門舞廳。》，我和妻的目光立刻搜索到了。這座1930年代興建的舞廳，樓高五層，夾在新型的高樓之中，顯得落寞寒楚，流盡鉛華。
車沒有停，卻沉緬在父母口述中，四十年代老上海時的百樂門情景。白先勇筆下的金大班，也浮現腦際。彷彿看到聽到周璇、阮玲玉、白光的身影歌聲，催華著名媛仕紳《蓬恰恰，蓬恰恰》的舞夜風情。
幸得上海市府，保護古蹟盡心盡力，將走過無數悲歡滄桑的百樂門舞廳，完整地保存下來，延續了昔日風華。
數分鐘後，車行至愚園東路，見梧桐夾道迎風起舞，在秋雨的襯托下，顯得蕭條瑟縮。也許是我們的念舊情懷，張先生指着前方一幢七層樓的義大利建築。說道：那是上海另一處歴史建築常德公寓，老名字叫愛林登公寓。
提到愛林登公寓，我立刻想到張愛玲，我們請司機王師傅將車開近，停留片刻。一個刻着《張愛玲故居》的牌子嵌在牆上，小字是張愛玲的事蹟。這是一次意外的收穫，這位中國近代文學史上的奇葩一生坎坷、孤寂、精彩、傳奇。
此情此景正如晏殊所寫《金風細細，葉葉梧桐墜》，《長恨離亭，涙滴春衫酒易醒。梧桐昨夜西風急，淡月朧明。》，《高樓月盡欲黃昏，梧桐葉上蕭蕭雨。》。(9）
下午三時，完成了當日的覓屋行程，徐先生建議去田子坊，體驗一次老上海弄堂的浪漫，兼具新時代創意的文化。我在泰康路口下車，徐先生跟司機回了公司，我們順著人潮走到210弄，進入田子坊。
田子坊原是一處路邊市集，1998年實施都耕計劃，注入新的文化元素，增添了它的光彩容貌。外嵌石塊的《石庫門》建築周邊，賦予了新的生命。老上海的風情，依舊存在於巷弄之間。田子坊社區多元藝文化的結果，驅使畫廊、茶館、露天咖啡館、藝品店、異國風情的美食店、文創工作坊、骨董店，如雨後春筍般出現。讓市民的生活有了活力，更吸引了許多外商外僑及觀光客的到訪。
我們享受了一個愉快愜意的午後時光，上海正奔馳在創意文化的競程上，田子坊是一個縮影。
在田子坊的巷子裡，我們在一間義大利餐廳，點了一些義式料理，兩份麵餃、一份扁豆沙拉、兩杯咖啡。
隨後再度去了南京東路步行街逛夜市，信步過了西藏中路，依次是新世界城、金門大酒店、永新廣場，豁然看見前面的國際飯店。
多年前，先父曾提起這座號稱為《上海之巔》的高樓建築。那是民國22年的往事，父親考入陸軍通信兵團教導大隊不久。有一天是個假日，父親同數名同學從鎮江來到上海，見證了這幢以美國摩天大樓為藍本，線條垂墜深入雲霄的大樓，開幕啓用儀式。有如今日的浦東東方明珠廣播電視塔，當時的國際飯店是上海的新地標。
這座大樓已列入上海市優久歴史建築保護單位，它也是百樂門舞廳、大光明電影院、沐恩堂等建築物，匈牙利建築師鄔達克的成名作品。已故當代中國旅美建築大師貝聿銘，正因為這座飯店的建成，激發了他對建築的熱愛。
巧合的是，我與妻結婚的地點也在國際飯店，不過不在上海，是在台北。(10）
第四天(10月29日，星期三），覓屋行程安排在下午。仲介公司仍然派車到酒店，接我們去浦西遊覽上海市區。路經東橫濱路、多倫路、長樂路、淮海路、新天地等處。我們選擇在多倫路下車，在夏衍、茅盾、魯迅的故居稍事停留。近距離接觸幾位中國近代大文豪的住所。見景思人，也想到他們的作品。
高中時曾讀魯迅的《狂人日記》和《阿Q正傳》，對中國社會病態和人性弱點，描述深入頗具諷刺。進入老年再讀《阿Q正傳》，覺得魯迅有欠忠厚。
上午十一時左右，到達頗富盛名的城隍廟。這座建立於明朝成祖永樂年間的寺廟，迄今已有六百年歷史，臨近上海繁華的豫園商城。城隍廟由霍光殿、財神殿、元辰殿、慈航殿、娘娘殿、城隍殿六個殿堂組成。
我們漫遊在廟區商場內，各式各樣風味小吃、酒釀湯圓、五香豆、八珍湯、小籠包應有盡有。絲綢店、古玩店、龍鳳書法、捏麵人、剪紙店、拉洋片、滬劇雜耍等等，看得目不暇給。
這裡的南翔饅頭店聞名中外，小籠包為其代表。中午就在南翔饅頭店排隊進餐，品嚐到南翔小籠的美味，皮薄、饀大、味鮮、汁多、形美，令人垂涎欲滴，南翔小籠包已是國家級《非物質文化遺產》。
驚喜的是，遇到了久違六十八年的中國民間娛樂《拉洋片》，江南人稱它為《西洋景》。小兒很好奇，從未看過這種新鮮玩意兒，我向他解說了一番。
我們坐在一張長木板凳上，面對一個大木箱，前方開了四個洞，我們一人佔據一個往箱內看。洞口安裝了放大鏡，箱內光線明亮，箱壁有十餘張彩色畫，有山水有人物。操作人一張一張換，一邊解說一邊唱着唱詞。當天的內容是西遊記，我記不住唱詞是怎麼講的了。反而想起我小時候，1947年冬天，在瀋陽故宮城外的市集中，那位拉片人的唱詞：嗨，請往裏面瞧，請往裏面看。深冬臘月好冷的天，前山大雪三尺多，後山深雪把人埋。冷得老虎鑽進洞，冷得樵夫下了山。
還一邊唱著一邊拉著鑼鼓點兒，聲音清脆悅耳《嗤不隆咚嗆，嗤不隆咚嗆，嗤不隆咚，嗆嗆》。(11)
我們順着一股香味，來到一家小吃店前。路邊的一張大桌子上，擺着剛剛加工好的五香蠶豆，冒着熱騰騰的香氣，佇足購買的人還不少，看上去好似母親所說的鎮江香豆。
母親小時候由山東日照遷居鎮江，那個年代五香豆子是兒童最喜歡的零食，母親也不例外。她沒忘小販吳語的叫賣聲《五香豆子呱呱叫，又香又脆這裡找。》。
我興致盎然，向販賣大媽照樣叫唱一遍。她嫣然一笑，說道：對對對，當年我的爺爺就是用這種聲調叫賣。
人手一包五香蠶豆，三人行邊走邊嚼，又香又脆口齒留香。能夠嚐到母親兒時喜愛的零食，好幸福。
下午一時，徐先生和王師傅來到老上海飯店前，接我們上車，去參訪浦西瑪麗奧堤酒店及兩棟大樓住宅。下午四時結束行程返回浦東酒店，稍後小兒參加福特汽車亞太總部的一項活動，我和妻則在酒店附近的濱江步道散步，欣賞黃昏時刻的黃浦江景。
在平坦的石板路上，享受着徐來的清風，樹木婆娑起舞，江面上的漣漪和天邊的晚霞相互鬥艷，彷彿在一幅圖畫裏。信步漫行竟忘了時間，夜幕已經降臨。
我情不自禁的唱出一首五十年前，白光的老歌《秋夜》：我愛夜，我愛夜，更愛皓月高掛的秋夜。幾株不知名的樹，已脫下了黃葉。
妻也附和著唱，感覺生命多精采，活得好愉快。(12)
第五天(10月30日，星期四），這天看完最後兩處酒店住房後已是中午時分，徐先生及司機返回公司。下午是自由行，我們選擇去了《上海城市規劃展示館》。依序登入每個樓層，恍如上了一堂歴史課，皆是驚人的視覺饗宴。
清道光22年(1842年），中英簽訂不平等的南京條約，開放廣州、福州、廈門、寧波、上海等五個港口通商，允許英人貿易、居住、設領事事務局，迄今(2019年）已有177年。
世界上還沒有任何一個都市像上海一樣從事大規模有計劃的建設，世事變易滄海桑田，上海由一個小漁村演變成今日具有萬國風采的國際大都會，也不過短短兩百年。
慶幸我們在這個大都市裡，除了面對陌生的新建築外，還能看見夕陽斜照裏的弄堂。具有歴史價值的建築物，都保存下來。尤其是鏡頭下的原址新舊對比照片，讓我這個有著上海情結，久別重逢的遊子，沉緬於一股懐舊的思緒之中，追回了日漸模糊的記憶。
回程我們搭乘地鐵在陸家嘴站下車，逛街至正大商場用餐。在地下樓有着異國風味的美食，上海當地的小吃，台灣的蚵仔煎、燒肉粽、魯肉飯等等，應有盡有，用餐環境媲美台北101大樓地下層飲食檔。
回到酒店後，將四天來各處覓屋收集到的資料、記録下來的筆記、拍攝到的照片，逐一比較討論。最後選擇了浦東香格里拉大酒店，作為小兒Anderson未來三年的住所。電話通知了徐先生，相約明日上午赴香格里拉。（13）
第六天（10月31日，星期五），上午九時由徐先生陪同，到達浦東香格里拉大酒店，再度由一位來自巴黎的客房經理Colette女士引導，進入我們屬意的兩處房間。經過一番比較，選擇23樓一間全單位觀景房。從客廳的落地窗向外看，對岸外灘及黃浦江美景盡收眼底，東方明珠廣播電視塔也在視線之內，臥房浴室裝璜考究寬敞舒適。距離上班地點，車程僅十分鐘。Colette女士對我們的決定，表示熱烈歡迎，會提供最佳的服務，有在家的感覺。
完成簽約手續後，司機送我們到達世界博覽會場址，在中華藝術宮下車。這座具有中華文化特質的建築物，博覽會結束後未被拆除，被永久保存下來，已成上海世界博覽會標誌性建築。
2010年5月1日，第41屆世界博覽會在上海開幕，展期至同年10月31日。這是首屆萬國博覽會(世博會前身）於1851年(清咸豐元年)，在英國倫敦海德公園舉行以來，159年後首次由中國主辦。
上海世界博覽會以《城市，讓生活更美好》為訴求，繼北京奧運會後，又一次提振了中國的國際地位。我在電視開幕直播及新聞報導中，驚艷盛況，作了112字七言一首，以茲紀念。
詩曰：百年期盼世博會，夢成上海浦江圓。五洲賀客齊歡慶，世人目光聚焦點。傲人建築展實力，盛世美景在眼前。銀花飛舞浦江夜，螢空月圓耀彩顏。繽紛絢麗九重天，天上一線連人間。梁祝黃浦水上起，仙樂飄飄夜空旋。相隔一百五九年，盛況空前創紀元。國人豪情盡可拋，此夜上海無人眠。（14）
遊歷過世博會現存的展覽館後，返回浦東，在陸家嘴世紀大道逛街，進入IFC國際金融中心大樓。這是一座在世博會期間，對外開始營業的購物中心大樓，具有質感的國際化時尚商場，地上四層，地下兩層，中庭全面挑空，牆面的美術雕花及裝飾相當吸睛。世界馳名的精品店，在這裡幾乎都有代理，是一個旅遊兼具購物的好去處。
第七天（11月1日，星期六），上午先看望母親的胞妹，我的二姨及其家人。1949年我與她在青島離別，65年來未曾見面。下午再訪三位堂弟、一位堂妹及我的三嬸。由於數年來，常在越洋電話中互通信息，彼此熟悉對方的聲音，因此見面時不覺陌生。
我們互相傾聽，對方訴說著生死離散的故事。兩岸分治的大時代悲劇，讓兩岸兩代人都有其隱忍不語的傷痛。這一次見面，沒有悲情，只有心存感激。上蒼賜給我們如此美好的機緣，願上天賜福每一個家庭。
2014年11月2日，星期日，結束了原鄉之旅上海行。下午一時赴虹橋機場，搭機飛往台北。小兒在上海還有兩天的會議行程，11月5日飛回底特律，準備履新事宜。（15，本篇完）
第2篇：義大利
感恩之旅
2014年10月，小兒Anderson服務的福特汽車公司，外派他到上海工作。我與妻趁著他事前到上海尋覓住所之便，去了一趟《原鄉之旅上海行》。這是我1949年離開上海65年之後，重逢上海。
小兒新職生效日是12月8日星期一，在感恩節前的一個星期六，由底特律回到洛杉磯的家。這也是公司刻意的安排，在就任前能放鬆一下，渡一個感恩節長假，直到上任。
為了充分利用這個假期，他和哥哥Anthony擬好了一個前往義大利旅遊的行程。從預定機票、旅館、高鐵車票，選擇古蹟景點，了解歴史文化等等等等，作成洋洋灑灑12頁的行程書表，稱之為《義大利感恩之旅》。
【11月23日
星期日】
這天是個大晴天，全家人五點鐘起床。上午11時30分，撘乘聯合航空班機由洛杉磯經舊金山，於次日當地時間上午9時10分，到達德國法蘭克福FRA機場。舊金山至法蘭克福，飛行時間為9小時45分鐘，此時洛杉磯時間已是24日零時十分。(1)
【11月24日
星期一】
在法蘭克福機場停留約兩個半小時，近中午時分，換搭Lufthansa德航班機，飛往羅馬FCO，扺達已是下午二時。比較FRA及FCO兩處機場，羅馬達文西機場，顯得陳舊許多。
出了機場向右步行約三分鐘，就是出租車及公車總站。我們選擇搭乘Terra ision旅遊公車前往市區，每人車資5歐元，如果乘坐Taxi，不計人數，一趟80歐元。公車每小時一班，舒適平穩，行駛約一小時，到達羅馬市中心的中央車站。
下了車步行約十分鐘，到達下榻的Hotel Rex旅店。這間建於1904年的旅館，二十年代的電梯，連結四個樓層，在一條安靜的巷道中，交通十分方便。提供精緻美味的早餐，是吸引顧客留宿的誘因。
稍事休息後，趕在落日之前，撘乘地鐵到達最近的景點許願泉，又稱少女泉。
『許願泉』
初次看見許願泉，是在上世紀五十年代，奧黛麗赫本主演的電影《羅馬假期》的大螢幕上。這天親覩這座中世紀歐洲的精緻建築，讓人驚艷讚歎。我們的羅馬假期，就從這裡開始。每人投入泉內一枚五角歐元硬幤，盼望再有一次羅馬假期，就是還願之時。
許願泉是一座巴洛克風格的噴泉，高二十五點九米，寬十九點八米。1629年之前稱《特萊維噴泉》，1730年教宗克勉十二世，任命尼古拉莎維重新設計，1732年施工，歷時三十年，於1762年完成。以希臘神話故事為主軸，噴泉後側是波利宮。科林斯大柱式的牆壁中央，是駕駛飛馬戰車的海神。左右兩側是豐裕與健康兩位女神，海神前方是海洋的信使特里同，外觀類似凱旋門。
面對許願泉，右側小巷是一條購物飲食步行街。我們在一家有80餘年歷史，名為Al picchio的小餐館，享用了一餐道地的義大利披薩及麵食。餐後興致不減，朝北步行至不遠處的景點「西班牙階梯」。(2）
『西班牙階梯』
西班牙階梯是一座戶外階梯，與西班牙廣場相聯，有135级石階，頂端有一座天主聖三教堂，莊嚴地矗立雲宵。早在1580年代，就有建築草圖的檔案。直到十八世紀初葉，法國波旁王朝，使用了一名外交官的遺產，資助梵蒂岡興建，費時三年，於1725年建成。
面對階梯是西班牙駐義大利大使舘，右前方的黃白色建築，曾是英國詩人濟慈的住所。也是經典電影羅馬假期、羅馬之春、圍城的拍攝地點。
我們到達時天色已暗，但觀光客人潮不減。我們坐在石階上，享受這深秋時節羅馬迷人的夜晚。逗留了半個小時，決定乘興夜遊梵蒂岡，趕搭地鐵去聖彼得廣場。
『梵蒂岡』
梵蒂岡也稱教廷，位於羅馬西北，台伯河西岸，梵蒂岡山上，是全球天主教的精神堡壘和政治中心。面積僅零點五平方公里，是全世界最小的國家。由高大的石牆圍繞，主建築是聖彼得大教堂。面對大教堂的右方，是梵蒂岡宮，是教宗居住和閣員辦公的地方。宮中還有博物館、圖書館、美術館及著名的西斯汀禮拜堂，堂內的牆壁和天花板上，是藝術大師米開朗基羅所繪，聞名於世的壁畫。
聖彼得大教堂的正前方，是聖彼得廣場，可容納六萬人。面向大教堂的左方是一座聖彼得青銅雕像，耶穌宗徒手持掌管天國審判生死的《天國之鑰》。右方則是另一宗徒，手持利劍，守護耶穌基督教義和救世博愛精神的聖保羅雕像。
對於一位天主教信徒而言，能圓一生中最大的朝聖夢想，站在聖彼得大教堂前的廣場上，心情是激動的，血液是沸騰的。
寧靜的夜晚在柔和的燈光下，襯托出聖堂的金碧輝煌，莊嚴肅穆。全家人感恩之心，油然而生。
雖然聖堂開放時間已過，我們卻在廣場上漫步徘徊直到夜深。晚安，梵蒂岡，明天見。(3）
【11月25日
星期二】
清晨六時起床，早餐後步行至中央車站，撘乘地鐵到羅馬競技場。車站內有超級市場，購買了四份火腿鷄塊三明治、兩罐特大號礦泉水及一些零嘴，分裝兩個背包，輪流背負，這是今日的午餐。
『羅馬競技場』
羅馬競技場是羅馬的地標建築，也稱弗萊文競技場，也叫圓形大劇場。建於西元前80年(西漢昭帝元鳳元年），在羅馬帝國時期，是劍奴的真劍比賽及人獸搏鬥場地。橢圓形石塊建築，佔地兩萬平方米，長軸188米，短軸156米，牆高57米，可容納近九萬人，是古羅馬時代建築史上的一項偉大貢獻，建成後迄今2100年，仍可看見它的宏偉遺蹟。
走進這座競技場內，想像兩千多年來，它經歴風雨摧殘，仍然屹立不搖，讓人驚嘆。不計其數的鬥士們，在殘酷的格鬥中流淌鮮血，成了慘死的冤魂，不禁感歎不已。在此停留了兩個小時後，順道遊覽了附近的君士坦丁大帝凱旋門及古羅馬市集廢墟。
近中午時分，我們在一處石階上席地而坐，與許多觀光客一樣，享用自備的午餐，之後再奔梵蒂岡，參觀梵蒂岡博物館。(4）
『梵蒂岡博物館』
出了地鐵站向右行，一條筆直的大街直通梵蒂岡。這個世界上面積最小的國家，大部份由28英尺高的石牆，與義大利國界分隔。順著北牆的步行道向西走約十分鐘，到達梵蒂岡博物館入口處。
這座博物館世界馳名，珍藏著歷代教宗收集的文物，從古埃及、古希臘、古羅馬到文藝復興各年代的藝術珍品，包括石雕、銅雕、器具、油畫、壁畫等等，每一件都是希世珍寶。24個景點如要一一瀏覽，至少需要一整天時間，不見得能深入了解，也僅是走馬看花而已。
『西斯汀教堂』
到了梵蒂岡，不能不參觀梵蒂岡博物館，進了梵蒂岡博物館，更不能不到西斯汀教堂。這座梵蒂岡內的小教堂，是教廷中樞，對外不開放禮拜，而是教宗與樞機團會議的場所，更是教宗亡故或去職，遴選新教宗的聖堂。
我們走進西斯汀教堂，立即感受到它的莊嚴肅穆，無論是穹頂、天花板、側壁，以及343幅描繪聖經舊約中人物故事的壁畫，每一個角落都是生機盎然，澎湃絢麗。這些壁畫可說是世界文明史上的顚峯極品，這是文藝復興時代藝術三傑之一的米開朗基羅(1475-1564）的獨自創作。眼前的情景，讓我們心情激動不已。
西斯汀教堂1445年興建，1481年(明憲宗成化17年）完工。到了1508年，當時的教宗朱利亞斯總覺得堂內廣闊空洞，遂令當年已頗富盛名的雕塑家米開朗基羅，用繪畫來裝飾天花板。最初他以非專長而拒絕，但教宗深信他會做得很好，祇好接下這項工作。未料悟性很高的米開朗基羅，所畫出的畫，日後卻成了世界藝術的瑋寶。
堂內的畫作分穹頂畫、壁畫和祭壇畫三部份。《創世紀》是一幅超大型天頂畫，是米開朗基羅引用聖經內容，大膽引進裸體作畫。其中局部三幅《上帝創造日夜》、《上帝創造亞當》、《亞當夏娃被逐出伊甸園》，充分體現了米開郎基羅的人文思想，透過繪畫發出對天主的讚歌。
1535年，他已六十歲，還被教皇逼著去畫《最後的審判》，用了六年時間，在極端惡劣的作畫環境下完成。他幾乎變成了跛子、瞎子。這幅題材出自聖經的巨繪，宣揚人死後，善者升天堂，惡者入地獄的因果報應關係。
天主喜愛他，給了他人間九十年的生命，在當時已是世間人瑞。那年，1564年，英國大文豪莎士比亞誕生。（5）
【11月26日星期三】
晨七時，在餐廳望著窗外下著細雨的街景，行人已熙熙攘攘。義大利是典型的地中海型氣候，冬季多雨，空氣清新略帶濕氣。細微的風吹聲，耳邊拂過，有輕爽飄逸的感覺。未來幾天的旅遊，可能會出現這種天氣。
向櫃檯借了兩把雨傘，一家人步行至中央車站，搭乘地鐵第三度前往梵蒂岡。
梵蒂岡地鐵站與一座大型的購物商場相連，各種各樣的商品應有盡有。我們添購了兩把折曡傘，於是人手一把，撐著傘漫步在雨中，走向聖彼得廣場，參加每周三上午，教宗方濟各與民眾有約的活動。
經過安檢，我們進入聖彼得廣場。由於事前已在網上登記，因此被安排在前區位置。九時許，估計廣場已湧入上萬人。從遊客手持的國旗中，可以看出來自何方，其中以拉丁美洲來的觀光客最多。欣慰的是，在大型螢幕上，看到了一面飄揚中的中華民國國旗和一面五星紅旗。
天空下著細雨，廣場內五顏六色的各式雨傘，更增添了歡悅熱閙的氣氛。
九時三十分，教宗方濟各，身著白色聖袍，戴白色聖冠，繫褐色聖珠，搭乘專用座車，在梵蒂岡電視台攝影車的前導下，從聖彼得教堂右側，順着車道揮手走進群眾，歡呼聲此起彼落不絕於耳，一路上不時停下來親吻孩童。
一群來自南美洲的信眾們，直呼教宗的俗名「佛朗西斯戈（Francisco)」，「佛朗西斯戈(Francisco)」。齊向這位來自阿根廷的鄉長，表達最真摰的情誼。
說也神奇，就在教宗出現的那一刻，居然雨停了。我是教友，深信這是天主的奧蹟。
教宗行約20分鐘，由廣場左側，到達聖彼得教堂正前方，面對群眾搭建的講檯上。先由司儀引言，再由教宗致祝願詞。此時正好是上午十點鐘，天主的奧蹟再度出現。天空烏雲已散，陽光普照整個廣場，群眾又一次的歡呼。我不知道如此場景，是否每次都會出現，但這一次的《與教宗有約》，在場的人都見證了這個事實。
教宗先後以英語及義大利語致詞，祝願世界和平，遠離戰爭、窮困、饑餓。讓聖神的光輝，照亮每一個家庭，幸福的真光，充滿信者的身心。我們感受到一股強烈的慈愛，如臨和風心存感恩，這是此次朝聖之旅的最大收穫。
瞻禮聖彼得大教堂，是行程重點，距離下午一時開放的時間，還有兩個小時。我們各撐一把雨傘，漫步在廣場正前方的使館大道（Via Della Conciliazione)，在一幢大廈的屋頂上，看見一面青天白日滿地紅國旗，在風雨中飄揚。這是中華民國在歐洲唯一的邦交國，駐教廷大使館館址。我們在館前，留住那一刻的攝影。虔誠禱告，願聖神庇佑這個苦難的國家。(6）
『聖天使城堡』
順著使館大道繼續往前走，步行約十分鐘，來到聖天使城堡（Castel sant Angelo)。這座興建於公元123年至139年間羅馬帝國哈德良王朝時的建築物，曾經作為阻止西哥德人及東哥德人入侵的要塞，現在闢為博物館，對外開放。
正對城堡入口，有一座跨越台伯河，羅馬最華麗的石拱橋（Ponte vittorio emanuele)，橋上有12尊雕工精湛的天使雕像，配以古意盎然的路燈，使人驚艷。
下午一時前，我們返回聖彼得廣場。驚見排隊入聖彼得大教堂禮拜的群眾，隊伍蜿蜒至少有三百公尺，我們加快腳步趕去排隊。沒等多久，回頭一看隊伍又是一長溜。
『聖彼得大教堂』
隊伍在細雨中緩緩前進，每個人都充滿喜悅，耐心等待。90分鐘後，輪到我們進堂。按照指定路線，有秩序地往前移動。堂內莊嚴肅穆，看到的是接耳細語，聽到的是步履輕聲。我們參考手中的資料，仔細瀏覽，心存感恩。長久以來夢想見到的聖殿，就在眼前。
聖彼得大教堂又稱聖伯多祿大教堂，或稱梵蒂岡大殿。最早的大殿建於公元316年（西晉愍帝建興4年），歷經三十年建成。由君士坦丁大帝資助，為拉丁十字形狀的巴西利卡式建築。具有耶穌基督為萬民承罪，被釘死在十字架上的象徵意義。(7）
經過1250年後的公元1503年，教宗猶利二世，因其陳舊不堪決定重建。1506年4月18日動工，保持原有式樣外，添加文藝復興時期建築元素，歷時120年，於1626年（明熹宗天啓六年)11月18日，舉行祝聖大典正式啓用，即今日世界最大的教堂聖彼得大殿。佔地兩萬三千平方米，大殿中央有直徑42米的穹窿，頂高138米。殿內飾以華麗的文藝復興盛期的壁畫及雕刻，米開朗基羅、拉斐爾(1483-1520）等大師均在此堂留下了舉世聞名永垂不朽的傑作，充分體現了文藝復興和巴洛克藝術的精髓。
聖堂中央祭壇，正好設在地下層聖徒彼得墳墓之上，可以說這座大教堂是建築在聖彼得殉教的地方。從1870年(清同治九年）以來，就是教宗就職，包括每年聖誕午夜彌撒，以及重大禮拜的地方。
祭壇右側有一尊米開朗基羅的石雕《聖母哀子像》，後方牆壁豎立起一座巨型石刻聖十字架。散發出聖母慈愛的光輝，從至高的天廷降下。
我們在《聖母哀子像》前，凝視著聖母和耶穌。像一個離家出走、受苦、挨餓，遇到各種磨折的孩子，回到母親懷抱一様，內心激動久久不能平復。我帶領家人，唸了一串玫瑰經，祈求聖母及耶穌降福庇佑。
離開聖堂已是下午四時，途經民眾廣場，再次一遊西班牙階梯。晚間在中央車站附近逛街，訂購赴那坡里高鐡車票，明天遊歴Capri島。(8）
【11月27日星期四】
這天是11月的第四個星期四，在美國是感恩節。起床後讀早課經文，感謝吾主耶穌，庇佑我一夜平善，賜我今日生命，浩大恩德。
早餐後赴中央車站，搭乘8時14分高鐵南下，前往義大利第三大城，也是第一大港的那坡里（Napoli)，又稱那不勒斯（Naples)。
義大利除了有密集的公路網外，高速鐡路縱橫全國各大城市，公營民營兼而有之，車行平穩舒適，快㨗便利。羅馬至那坡里，240公里，車行約兩個半小時。行經西部平疇綠野，時而看見遠方的亞平寧山脈，鐵道兩旁近處的葡萄田、橄欖地、檸檬叢，盡收眼底。田間的埂渠，蜿蜒的車道，設計得井然有序。樹林小河旁的農舍，祥和寧靜，具有遺世絕俗獨立入禪的感覺。
『卡浦麗島』
上午10時40分，列車分秒不差，準時停靠月台。那不勒斯車站設計與羅馬相仿，有寬闊的候車大廳，至少有一萬人的容客量，廳內設施新穎，商店林立，購物方便，小飯館隨處可見。
出了車站左行不到兩分鐘，就是排班出租車招呼站。一家人上了車，直奔那坡里渡輪碼頭。
計程車男性駕駛員，是一位年約二十五、六歲的年輕人，略懂英語，除了義大利母語外，也可以用西班牙語溝通。此君一路滔滔不絕，抱怨義大利的失業率，已高過西班牙和希臘，窮人佔全國半數。又說那不勒斯又老又窮，治安也差，工人與資本主抗爭不斷，每個星期都有大小不等的示威活動，警察疲於奔命。小偷多了，當街搶劫屢見不鮮。好像給我們作了一次國情簡報，義大利人的率真，可見一斑。
二十分鐘的車程，因示威交通受阻。多出一倍時間繞道而行，到達碼頭下車，我們照錶付款，也辛苦這位司機了，祝他生意興隆。
計程車路經一貧民窟，見住家牆壁皆是塗鴉作品，色彩鮮豔，文字詼諧，諷刺意味濃厚，展現獷野抽象特色，反映窮人對現實環境的不滿，應是街頭藝人所為。想不到巧遇一次示威活動，計程車繞路而行，讓我們得到一項意外的收穫。(9）
開往卡浦麗島(Capri last)的渡輪，每30分鐘一班，尖峰時刻客滿即開。島位於那波里港南方30海哩，航行約35分鐘。遊客在島北海灣碼頭上岸，臨海大街有藝品店、公車站、小旅館。計程車司機遊走於旅客之間，招攬生意。商店內有旅遊指南，免費提供。
卡浦麗島面積十六點七平方公里，島上有一座海拔258公尺的索拉諾山(Solano Mts)，整個島以丘陵地為主體。東有卡浦麗鎮，西有安娜卡浦麗鎮，兩鎮之間有一些小面積的台地。檸檬是島上的特產，檸檬酒、檸檬油、檸檬糖果馳名歐洲。
一條單線雙向公路，蜿蜒曲折連貫全島，橘黃色公車滿載時不超過20人，包括站立者。在狹窄的路面上，兩輛公車相會，駕駛操控沉穏，技術超羣，雙方車速如常，錯車距離不過半呎，一邊是山崖，一邊是深淵，讓人即驚嘆又敬佩。
我們選擇有新鮮感的索道巴士上山，到卡浦麗小鎮。車站就在臨海大街上，隨著巴士逐漸爬升，視野越來越廣。俯瞰碧藍色的海灣，遊船、小艇穿梭不停。半山中的別墅豪宅，盡在眼底。
小鎮依山勢而建，海拔百餘公尺，用適合海島氣候的石雕建築，既華麗又古樸更實用。彎彎曲曲坡度陡斜，偶有階梯，寛不足三公尺的幽徑巷弄，兩旁時鮮爭艷羅列。藝品店、珠寶首飾店、精品店分設巷道兩旁，售價實在，是旅客佇足吸睛焦點。（10)
小鎮逗留了一小時，乘坐小巴前往島西安娜卡浦麗鎮。
此地是義大利着名的檸檬産地，有一系列的檸檬加工產品，供銷全國及外銷歐洲。鎮內有檸檬博物館、酒廠、糖果餅乾廠，以及設備新穎的小旅館。超級市場、餐館、銀行、郵局一應俱全。住家四周家家戶戶種滿四季花卉，綠樹成蔭環境清幽，讓人留連忘返。
搭乘一人一車的單人坐䌫上山，對我們而言是一種新的旅遊體驗。纜車車站就在小旅館右側不遠處。登上海拔258公尺的索拉諾山，需要20分鐘。單人纜車很像有扶手靠背的鞦韆，有遮陽篷設備。15度的上升坡度，距離地面約10至15公尺，車行平穏安全舒適。車距約五公尺，前後車可以對話，至少有百輛車徐徐在空中爬升，飄逸自得，享盡秀、奇、美三者皆俱的山景海景。行進中氣象萬千，時而陽光普照，霎時雲煙嫋嫋，有如置身於安徽黃山之中。
索拉諾山，峯頂峻秀，翠嵐映照，白雲悠悠。有一雲仙花園，依山勢而建，立於山巔之上。古柏、勁松、奇石，似虛似幻隨著雲海移動。山雖不高，卻有仙靈之氣。
回程在小鎮搭小巴下山，碼頭巧遇一台灣旅行團，一團人留宿於次日，作海上環島遊，享受遊船穿越礁石洞窟的驚喜。巨型岩洞經萬年風雨侵蝕，形成各種動物形態，唯妙唯肖。
另有藍洞奇景，係岩洞內的海水，在特殊地形下，經陽光折射，產生藍色彩光。
感恩節我們在卡浦麗島，渡過美好難忘的一天。於晚間9時15分，撘乘高鐡回到羅馬，在車站購買了次日到威尼斯的車票。(11)
【11月28日星期五】
上午8時30分赴羅馬中央車站，在候車大廳逗留約一小時後，登上前往威尼斯的高鐵，9時50分準時開車。
列車順著亞平寧山脈北上，路經佛羅倫斯，進入波河平原。車行3小時50分鐘，到達威尼斯聖塔露西亞站。
坐在舒適平穩的車廂裡，一路遠眺亞平寧山，峰峰相連。大片的葡萄園，在陽光照射下，生機盎然。波河平原的玉米、小麥、甜菜田，規劃得井然有序。鄉村公路、小河、農舍、樹叢、木橋，交織成一幅美麗的田園風景。
遙想五個半世紀前，義大利諸先賢米開朗基羅、達文西、拉斐爾、提香等人，為了拯救被《黑暗時期》中斷了千年的歐洲歷史文化，騎著馬或坐著馬車，來回奔波在這條路上的情景。顛有走進時光隧道，時空錯亂的感覺。（12)
『水都威尼斯』
威尼斯是聞名於世的水上都市，位於義大利東北部，面對亞得里亞海，建築在一處淺水礁湖區的沙洲之上，是威尼西亞省的省會。
義大利先民於15世紀，用了上萬根的木樁，密集式地插入泥沙之中，地基就架設在這些木樁之上。再以磚石建造房屋，是一項人力挑戰自然成功的例子。木樁在水底缺氧的環境下，不易腐朽，至今完好。往後延續這種方法擴建，演變成今日的威尼斯。
城市的設計，像似一條在大海中游動的巨鯨，凸顯出義大利人的智慧。交通主幹是貫穿市中心的大運河，連通150多條水巷，交錯全市。船是唯一的交通工具，各種不同的船隻，穿梭在運河與水巷之中。
具有古典風格的小船《貢多拉Gondola》，是觀光客的喜愛，坐在船上船夫搖槳高歌，穿過石橋，欣賞水巷兩邊的古建築，讓人發思古幽情，其樂無窮。
四百多座不同造型的石橋，連接水巷兩岸的行人道，裝點出威尼斯的詩情畫意。
大運河沿岸，，每隔一段距離，就可看見一些粗大的木樁立於水中，這是栓船的船柱，又是歸航泊岸的標記。
威尼斯的景點不下百處，最馳名的有聖馬可廣場、聖馬可大教堂、學院美術館、嘆息橋以及多處離岸小島，都在行程規劃之中。(13）
『聖馬可廣場』
下午近二時出威尼斯車站，站前廣場面對大運河。鱗次櫛比的水上建築，穿梭河面的各型船隻，藍天碧水景色迤邐，讓人心曠神怡。
我們在細雨中登上水上巴士，往東南方向行駛，到達大運河上的一座石橋（Rialto)里阿朶站。數百公尺外，就可看到橋上人來人往。小兒Anderson拿着地圖，邊走邊看路標，順着河堤，在一處船浦前進入巷弄，彎彎曲曲像似迷宮。在一條寬僅兩公尺的小巷子裡，找到了下榻的旅館Hotel Centauro，是一座有著110年歴史的老旅店。雖然建築有些年歲，但裝璜新穎，設備一應俱全。休息片刻後，趕在落日前，赴聖馬可廣場。
聖馬可廣場是威尼斯最大的一塊平地，長方形的設計類似羅馬的聖彼得廣場。東面就是馳名的聖馬可大教堂。堂正前方，矗立着一幢近300英尺的赤褐色尖頂鐘樓，是威尼斯的著名地標。
廣場隔街就是運河，一面是教堂，其左右前方三邊為連體矮層商店樓房，廣場外牆雕塑精美，富文藝氣息。近處有總督大廈，高聳入雲的花崗石圓柱上，立着一隻振翅雄獅，十分雄偉。
廣場內的各家商店裡，紀念品、小禮品琳瑯滿目，各類玻璃製品，藝精物美，令人目不暇給。成群的鴿子圍繞著旅客打轉，爭食麵包零嘴。我們在廣場內逛商店，在附近遊景點，享受了一個美好難忘的午後時光。本欲進入聖馬可大教堂禮拜，因開放時間已過，未能如願，計劃週日再來。
入夜之後我們穿弄走巷，弄堂內許多商家，凌晨二時之前不打烊，霓虹燈閃爍依舊，遊客遊情不減。
我們佇足在威尼斯Danieli酒店，享受義大利極品咖啡，索價不貲，當然也享受到頂級服務。酒店面對大運河，原為威尼斯富商豪宅，後易主改建為酒店。我們盡情留連在威尼斯的夜晚，凌晨一時才回到旅館。（14）
【11月29日星期六】
今晨六時起床，雖然只睡了五個小時，卻沒有絲毫疲睏，威尼斯在霧色朦朧中甦醒。
早餐後步行至里阿朶碼頭，搭船至高鐵站，繼續行程作佛羅倫斯(Florence)一日遊。
9時25分開車，車行兩小時三十五分鐘，於中午十二時到達。途經義大利養豬業大城博洛尼亞（Bologna)，此地生産的香腸、火腿馳名全球。
印象深刻的是，列車要通過一座行車約半小時的鐵路隧道。這座名為瓦利亞的隧道，建成於2009年，在博洛尼亞城北，全長1萬8千711米，是義大利北部三大城米蘭(Milano)、維隆那(Verona)、威尼斯(Venezia)通往佛羅倫斯及那波里必經的隧道。
『佛羅倫斯』
佛羅倫斯位於威尼斯西南方280英里處，是歐洲文藝復興運動的發源地。義大利先賢伽利略和但丁，與這個城市有着密切的關聯。
伽利略(1564-1642）是義大利的科學家，在天文學、數學和物理學方面的成就，對人類有著巨大的貢獻。他認為宇宙的定律，只能靠著測量的方式得知，對18世紀中業以後的歐洲工業革命，起了決定性的影響。奠定他科學家的思維，卻得自於文藝復興。他對16世紀教會所說的一切科學知識，持懷疑態度，因此鑽研於科學的研究，得到驚人的發現。
當年伽利略是否想到，有一天他的測量工程理論，四百年後被後人引用，在他的故鄉建造了一座先進的鐵路隧道，造福了他的國家。(15）
十三世紀義大利有一位偉大的民族詩人但丁（Dante Alighieri 1265-1321），寫了兩部舉世聞名的文學著作《神曲》和《新生》。
《神曲》是一部很長的詩歌，這是但丁為歌頌他的義大利民族而寫，運筆長達十四年，直到他56歲去世那年才完成。《新生》是寫他跟他最敬愛的女友「比特麗絲」的故事。
一路上我沉思在這兩部作品的情節中，不知不覺列車到達佛羅倫斯站。這裡與羅馬中央車站有着同一款式的設計，大廳寬闊採光明亮。廳內有藝品店、超市、餐廳、精品店、郵局、銀行，一應俱全。
走出車站，視野寬廣，古意盎然。13世紀的教堂建築，石砌的牆壁，厚實的門窗，古樸的街燈，靜靜流淌的阿諾河，與畫家「亨利豪里戴」畫筆下的描繪一模一樣。這座要靠步行遊覽的城市，數百年來一直保有它的古典魅力。
在穿巷走弄間，想像當年富甲天下的佛羅倫斯商人麥地奇（Medici)，用金錢收買了三位教皇，將整個城堡作為他的家。達文西、米開朗基羅都受到他的禮聘，為這座城市留下了不朽的雕塑。
我們信步來到被譽為義大利先賢祠的「聖十字大殿」，它是但丁、米開朗基羅、伽利略、馬基亞維力等人的安息之地。不禁對這幾位不僅是義大利，而且是全世界的偉大藝術巨擘，致以最崇高的敬意。（16）
『聖母百花大教堂』
這座於1296年（元成宗元貞二年)興建的大教堂，中殿為多角圓頂建築，直徑40米，高52米，以大理石塊搭成，氣勢恢宏壯觀耀目，橘紅色的圓頂高聳雲霄，是佛羅倫斯的地標，教堂式樣成為全球教堂建築的樣本。我們在聖母雕像前合十黙禱，祈求世人堪受基督的恩許。
『佛羅倫斯學院
美術館』
到達佛羅倫斯學院美術館已是下午四時，米開朗基羅的石雕像《大衛》，在美術館內成為參觀主軸。當天的觀光客不多，我們可以仔細端詳。
西方學者曾對《大衛》石雕有過闡䆁，說他是聖經中所說的以色列王，沉思是他的特徴。又說他是一位憂鬱的性情中人，更說他是義大利戰馬的化身。
目睹面前的《大衛》，心中激動不已。透過大螢幕的說明，再對照實景，引證了學者們的說法。驚嘆米開朗基羅的刀鑿功力，把《大衛》賦予了生命。從雙眼到眉睫，從額角到鼻梁，整個面部表情，以至整個軀體的張力，都透露出他的憂鬱、不安和深沉。
對於那一雙與常人不成比例的大手，給了一個想像的空間。米開朗基羅刻意如此雕塑，是否要平衡《大衛》心中的不安呢？(17)
『阿諾河上的
維奇奧撟』
義大利中世紀最後一位大思想家，也是文藝復興時期的首位人文主義者但丁，比米開朗基羅早誕生210年。少年時偶遇一位心怡已久的天人「貝雅德麗齊」，但丁一生都為這位天人而活，兩人只見面兩次，兩次都沒有交談。他內心激盪，為貝雅德麗齊，譜寫出不朽的詩篇《新生》，引發了後來改變世界的文藝復興運動。
我們在黃昏時刻，來到阿諾河上的維奇奧橋。傳說是一百年前，義大利畫家亨利豪里戴所繪《但丁邂逅貝雅德麗齊》畫中的那座橋。潺潺的河水，靜靜的流淌着，站在橋上眺望遠方的彩霞，低頭沉思，彷彿看見了但丁散文詩《新生》中的場景。
『新聖母大殿』
來到新聖母大殿，已是華燈初上時刻，所幸排隊入場的人不多，有足夠的時間，趕搭夜快車回威尼斯。警衛提出敬告，體力不足的旅客，請勿冒險攻頂。
近六百級石階，高約兩百公尺的羅曼型哥德式鐘樓建築，最寬處120公分，最窄處75公分。上下樓走同一通道，且空氣稀薄光線昏暗，最後一段幾乎要爬行而上，比登泰山還難。我與妻有心無力，放棄攀登。兩兄弟體力充沛，完成攻頂，回報心得令人羡慕不已。
新聖母大殿(Santa Maria Novella)興建在九世紀聖母祈禱院的地基上，1246年動工，1360年才完成，1420年（明成祖永樂18年）祝聖。
義大利的先賢們，在建造這座聖母大殿時，經過縝密思考，除了主體結構的考究外，設計出螺旋式的600級石階，每階30公分的樓梯，攀登至頂就是體力極限的考驗。
荒漠甘泉上説，如果你要認識基督，必須從現在的環境中走出，讓祂引你經過荒野爐火。當你走完全程，站在紅色圓頂的陽台上，俯瞰整個佛羅倫斯城時，視野寬闊心曠神怡，景物盡收眼底。此時此刻的你，會心境豁然開朗，頓悟開，喜樂增，智慧長。這不就是上主賜給人們的恩典嗎？
晩餐後搭乘北上高鐡，近午夜時分，在細雨中再度回到威尼斯下榻的旅館。(18)
【11月30日星期日】
清晨，疏雨初霽昫升霧散，舟楫催發行人熙攘，又見威尼斯的活力。早餐後，順着大運河東行，路經嘆息橋。
『嘆息橋』
嘆息橋(The Bridge of sighs)建於1600年(明神宗萬歴28年），係一密閉式的拱形石橋，橋內陰暗低矮，兩側各有小窗兩扇，是法庭通往監獄唯一的通道。
當受刑人由審判廳通過此橋前往獄牢時，只能彎腰低頭而過，從小窗遙望美麗的風景，感嘆前塵往事已成煙雲，方知失去自由的可貴，發出聲聲嘆息。
19世紀英國詩人拜倫(1788-1824），來到此橋，寫下一首名詩，嘆息生命的無常，因此得名。
『聖馬可教堂』
在旅館櫃檯，探詢到聖馬可教堂週日的彌撒時間，我們選擇上午十時三十分的一場。
一個天主教信徒，一生能到聖地禮拜，又能到全球最富盛名的聖堂，參加感恩聖祭，是天主最豐厚的恩寵，最慈愛的照顧。
長期以來我們未進聖堂，抱着贖罪的心情，雙臂交叉胸前，奉接神父特賜的聖體，內心激盪不已。
聖馬可教堂在廣場之東，與總督府相連，是拜占庭式建築的代表。前身建於西元828年，978年重建。現今的基礎於1063年成型，1094年(北宋哲宗紹聖元年）完工祝聖。華麗的大理石石柱，裝飾着各種精工石雕，細質的馬賽克鑲嵌，青銅鑄造的大門，融合了哥德式的建築架構，使聖堂顯得格外氣宇軒昂，莊嚴肅穆。(19）
『穆拉諾島』
午餐後步行至里阿朶橋，搭乘水上巴士前往威尼斯湖中的穆拉諾島（Murano)，航行約20分鐘，在Colonna站登岸。威尼斯潟湖中有近20座小島，穆拉諾島位於威尼斯北方約兩公里，面積約三點七平方公里，生產玻璃器皿聞名於世，十四世紀就有玻璃製品出口。
島上居民以製造玻璃產品為主業，十三世紀末葉，就會利用銅鈷化合物製造出彩色玻璃。島上有採購一條街，出售水晶、彩秞、金絲、乳白、螺紋、七色彩虹、金紅寶石混色等玻璃製品。舉凡人物、動物、花卉、花瓶、飾物、日用品等等，製作之精美，情態之逼真，嘆為觀止。
島上的朱斯蒂廣場有一座玻璃博物館，展示製作玻璃的過程及歴史，每個時期的玻璃産品，遠至古埃及時代。十人以上的團體旅客，可以現場觀看吹製玻璃的工序。
這天威尼斯冬雨緜緜，多半撐傘觀光，回程交通船按原路折返，各離島的中古世紀建築鱗次櫛比，泛宅浮家風光綺麗，令人目不暇給。
傍晚黃昏，湖面彩虹天水一線，回到旅館稍事休息後，興致不減，步行跨過里阿朶橋，至大運河西岸漫步。（20)
『里阿朵橋』
里阿朵河（Ponte di Rialto)係大理石塊砌成的單拱石橋，三座橫跨大運河巨型橋梁之一，也是歴史最久的一座。於1181年設計，原為一座浮橋，後經兩度改建。
今日的里阿朵橋，係義大利橋梁建築師安東尼龐特（Antonio da ponte)設計，1588年開工，1591年完成。屬文藝復興時期風格，遠眺像一頭站立在水面的白色大象。橋長90米，寬23米，高8米，橋下可通行大型水上巴士。橋頭橋尾兩端均有一條商店街。圓拱斜坡形橋身，中央門廊凸出，橋身加蓋，橋內就是一個市集，行人摩肩接踵交易熱絡。
石橋兩邊外側有䕶欄行人道，眺望運河舟楫穿梭，兩岸石樓古樸，人來人往，一片欣欣向榮，昇平歡樂景象。此時此刻心境沉聲氣靜泰然自若，有如《東京夢華錄》書內，形容出遊汴京開封，行走汴河虹橋之上一般。僕今追往悵然回首，前麈往事恍如一夢。
晚間在河岸一間餐廳，享用道地義大利海鮮餐點。小樓窗外細雨微風，河中畫舫游走，霓虹映波，笙歌悠揚，有如秦淮令人流連忘返。(21）
【12月1日星期一】
午夜過後至黎明，細雨絲絲縷縷下個不停。晨七時雨歇，巷道已積水近半英尺，旅店、住家忙於清理。奇景，水都威尼斯竟會淹水。
這天停留威尼斯只剩半天，中午將搭高鐵回羅馬。八時雨又起，一家人各撐一把傘，再一次流連威尼斯的街景，雨中的威尼斯更見風情。
我們來到聖馬可廣場，再次巡禮聖馬可教堂。驚訝的是，一次連夜雨後，廣場竟然在一片汪洋之中，水深及踝。數隻飛鴿立於鐘樓尖頂之上，叫聲咕咕俯視水面。
我們站在石階旁，看着廣場望著聖堂。我傾聽淅瀝的雨聲，沉思默想，竟然疏忽了一位年長的神父路過，他含笑用英語對我們說了一句：God loves you。我們感恩莫名，水中的聖馬可教堂，格外神聖莊嚴。
此時此景此情，聯想起蔣㨗那首虞美人「少年聽雨歌樓上」，「壯年聽雨客舟中」，「而今聽雨僧廬下，鬢已星星也。」我體會得出蔣㨗那種「悲歡離合總無情，一任階前點滴到天明。」感嘆人生無可奈何花落去，似曾相識燕歸來的心情。我搖了搖頭，清醒一下，別想這麼多了，把握時間，去搭乘小船Gondola逛運河去。(22)
『貢多拉』
威尼斯這座水上都市，河道及巷道縱橫，巷弄胡同五百餘個，大小運河一百五十多條，水巷行船，陸巷走路。
有一種每天穿梭在水巷，世界馳名的小船，名為「貢多拉」Gondola最具古典風格，是遊覽水都最有情趣的交通工具。載客六至七人，船長11公尺，寬1公尺50，黑色船身，由300塊櫧木板全手工打造而成。船體弧度大，兩端呈尖形，頗似陰暦初五的彎月，行動靈巧輕快。
一家人乘坐專屬小舟，行走大小運河兩小時。船夫撐篙搖漿，高唱義大利民歌，蜿蜒行走於水巷拱橋之間，觀賞古樓民房，陽台花園，彷彿置身夢幻城堡。近中午時分趕赴車站，搭乘高鐵南下羅馬。
下午3時10分，步出羅馬中央車站，步行十分鐘抵達最初下榻的國王旅店。半小時後，抓住時間漫步羅馬舊城。
『四河噴泉廣場』
羅馬古城各處古蹟散布，歴史悠久被人們稱為「不朽之城」，兩千多年來，經歴多次戰爭劫難，各古蹟仍舊盎然挺立，宏偉的建築氣勢雲林，震撼奪人。「羅馬不是一日建成」，只有身臨其境才能體會。
四河噴泉廣場(Fontana Del Quattro Flumi），係義大利建築師博尼尼（Bernini)於1651年(清世祖順治8年)設計建成。
噴泉在廣場中央位置，引用地下河水，經由一座高約200英尺的黑色埃及高塔建築中，利用擠壓原理，使地泉四面奔流。塔頂立一白鴿，代表天主教會在天之下。四噴泉代表全球四大河流的水，滋潤了全人類。四大河分別是亞洲的岡底斯河(印度河），非洲的尼羅河，歐洲的多惱河，南美洲的銀河(阿根廷境內），我們在此逗留了一個小時後離去。（23)
【維托里亞諾紀念堂】
維托里亞諾紀念堂(Vittoriano)又稱埃曼紐二世紀念堂，是紀念統一義大利的第一位國王埃曼紐二世，於1895年由義大利建築師朱塞佩薩克尼設計，1911年開工1935年築成。採取白色大理石建造。高大的科林斯圓柱，宏偉的階梯，噴泉四射。巨大的埃曼紐二世騎馬銅像，立於堂前中央位置。
紀念堂左右兩端閣頂之上，各有四輛雙輪戰車，女神維多利亞站立中央，均由青銅雕塑而成。堂前的一座有階梯的旗壇上，竪立一面巨幅的綠白紅三色義大利國旗，壯觀奪目。
這座長135米，縱深40米，高70米的新古典主義風格宏偉建築，與羅馬競技場齊名，完工迄今(2019年）已有84年歴史。我們在此停留了半小時後，繼續行程。
羅馬城的聖殿、教堂、噴泉、銅像、石雕、林園，多達160多個。要想逐一遊覽，對眾多的觀光客來說，是一樁很難辦到的事。
當天羅馬城冬雨緜緜，我們雨中漫步，盡情享受了這古城氣宇非凡的歷史風華。
羅馬、那不勒斯、佛羅倫斯、威尼斯，留下了我們的足跡，給了我們念念不舍永不忘記的美好回憶。(24）
【12月2日星期二】
昨日入夜後雨勢加大，今晨雨未歇，氣象報告羅馬城已下了一英吋的雨。4時15分趕赴中央車站，撘乘4時40分赴機場的首班巴士，於5時30分抵達羅馬達文西國際機場。
距離班機起飛時間，足足有三個小時，從容步行至櫃檯。未料遇上德航機師、員工罷工，我們經慕尼黑至華盛頓到洛杉磯的班機取消，我們立刻緊張起來，隨即趕赴德航辦公室接洽。
櫃檯前已有五位旅客先我們一步到達，我們耐心等待轉機安排。一個半小時後輪到我們，承辦員是一位中年婦女，很有親和力，一直與其聯盟公司聯絡，一個小時後終於有了好消息。
我們被安排到土耳其航空飛往伊斯坦堡的班機，再轉機直飛洛杉磯，整個行程比原先搭乘的德國航空，反而要快五個小時抵達。
拿着搭機通聯單，提着行李直奔土航櫃檯。兩個孩子跑得快，200公尺的距離，不到一分鐘就衝到，辦妥行李通行，拿到登機證後三秒鐘，電腦自動關閉，真是即驚又險。我和妻連跑帶走，氣喘吁吁，五分鐘後才抵達安檢入口，20分鐘後登上飛機。
機門關閉離開空橋，滑行至跑道。引擎加足馬力，飛機一飛衝天，羅馬城漸漸消失於眼際。
不禁想起一首1960年代的義大利流行曲《Arrivederci Roma再見羅馬》，我問兩兄弟是否會唱，給我起個音提個詞，居然兩兄弟唱了起來。這首歌曾翻譯過多種語言演唱，自然義大利歌手唱得最好，尤以Claudio Villa(1926-1987)唱得最有感情。我和妻跟著兩兄弟輕聲吟唱：那兒有羅馬的傳奇，懸着一束束古老的噴泉，如果我們拋了硬幣，它會讓你再回來。再見羅馬，再見羅馬。(25，本篇完）
第3篇：大象王國
曼谷行
2014年12月4日，小兒Anderson由洛杉磯經西雅圖轉赴上海，出任福特汽車公司亞太總部新職。次年(2015年）2月14日中午12時40分，我與妻撘乘聯合航空從洛杉磯赴上海，於當地時間15日下午6時，到達上海浦東機場，與小兒滙合。趁中國大陸春節長假，於次日晚間10時35分，搭乘上海航空，赴曼谷作六晚七日遊。
下午八時前往浦東機場，辦妥登機手續，通過安檢，到達登機門。卻因登機空橋另有用途，旅客無法登機。
航空公司用機場巴士，分批運送旅客前往兩公里外，停在停機坪的班機。外面的氣溫是攝氏五度，空氣濕冷，霧霾嚴重，能見度僅五公尺。
我有些不適，妻更有氣喘現象。登機後得到很好的服務，服了藥情況改善許多。在小兒孝心的安排下，坐上商務艙，還是第一排。這是我和妻40餘年來，開洋葷頭一遭。
在機上枯坐了三個半小時，也是從來沒有遇過的經驗。次日凌晨一時左右，大霧散去。飛機於1時50分起飛，飛行四小時三十分鐘，於泰國時間晨5時20分，到達曼谷素萬那普國際機場。(1）
此行除了觀光旅遊外，還要探望吾妻秀蓮的幼蘭表妹及其夫婿，以及服務於華航泰國分公司的妹婿。
步出入境大廳，驚喜的是，幼蘭親自駕車來接機。非常過意不去，讓她一夜未眠。我們傳達訊息，上海天候惡劣，班機延誤，不確定何時抵達曼谷，請勿接機。幼蘭的盛情，讓我們感動不已。
在晨曦中，一邊看著曼谷的街景，一邊聽著幼蘭的解說。車中還傳出音量適中的歌唱聲，那是多年沒有再度聽到，由美國女歌手Joy Enriques所唱的《How Can I Not Love You怎能不愛你》，奧斯卡金像獎影片《Anna and The King國王與我》中的主題曲。
此景此情，讓我們對曼谷這個世界大都市以及泰國這個美麗的國度，產生了更多的美好臆想。車行約40分鐘，到達下榻的華航特約酒店Rembrandt Hotel，並相約與幼蘭見面的時間。(2）
來到泰國的第一天，我們興致高昂，沒有受到旅途疲憊的影響，按照行程首先遊覧穿越曼谷市區的昭披耶河(Chao Phraya River)，中譯為湄南河(Mae Nam)，再到河濱商場瀏覧。用完早餐，與妹婿善鈞通電話，感謝他為我們安排的這間旅館，清靜幽雅既寬敞又舒適，交通更方便，步行10分鐘可達地鐵站，並約好見面時間。並在櫃台小姐那裡學到一句泰語《謝謝Khob Khun》。
我們參考曼谷城市圖及地鐵圖，搭乘SKY Train到達Saphan Taksin鄭王橋站，下車步行約300公尺來到河濱碼頭。（3）
這座碼頭原是一個小渡口，1900年泰國皇室因應需要，大興土木改建，迄今已越百年。
我們搭乘東方文華酒店(Mandarin Oriental Hotel)專屬，打造得美輪美奐古色古香的渡船，約10分鐘航程，到達東方文華店址的河浦碼頭上岸，享受一次著名的東方文華酒店英式下午茶。酒店環境幽美，蝶舞花香，露天咖啡座坐滿來自不同國家不同膚色的觀光客。各式飲料、香濱、咖啡、茗茶、甜點，應有盡有。見河面穿梭的遊船近在咫尺，眺覽兩岸高樓街景，河面風光碧波蕩漾。如此美景良辰，讓人心曠神怡，神采飛揚。
夜幕低垂，華燈初上，曼谷越夜越美麗，我們轉赴亞洲最大夜市Asiatique市集一覽究竟。(4）
搭上了東方文華酒店的彩舫，南行折返河濱碼頭，往Sathorn pier方向步行5分鐘，就到達Asiatique the Riverfront夜市，這個座落於曼谷舊城區的夜市，風光不減，由於名聲遠播，成了世界級的觀光景點，泰國政府重新規畫整建，於2012年5月擴大營業對外開放。
夜市格局具備泰國文化氣息，分成十大區塊，舉凡手工藝品、當地土産、泰式料理、精品商圈、人妖劇場、文創商品、成衣賣場、泰式按摩、咖啡廳、小飯館、路邊攤等等等等無一匱乏。霓虹燈五彩繽紛閃爍不停，人潮湧動熙熙攘攘，信步遊走在一幅幅令人陶醉目不暇給的熱帶風情畫裡。
我們邊走邊聊，從大陸的一帶一路到台灣的文創產業。這裡可以引進台灣的軟體實力，補強這裡的觀光事業。
我們也買了星期日夜場的人妖秀入場券，2月22日星期天，我們將再度遊歴這座大夜市。（5）
【2月18日，星期三
甲午年除夕】
為了配合旅行社安排的曼谷近郊一日遊，今天起了一個大早。上午六時，一輛Mini Van來到酒店，接我們前往曼谷市觀光局停車場，與其他觀光客整合，轉搭一部22人座中型觀光巴士，於七時許順着35號公路，沿着曼谷灣朝西南方向，前往Amphawa Floating Market水上市場及Maeklong鐵道市場。
車過沙梅巴干，驚艷一大片鹽田，在大海及陽光的映托下，一座座小鹽山，顯得絢麗輝煌。(6）
曼谷周邊地區的水上市場有七處之多，均分佈在湄南河的支流上，形成一個帶狀的水上人家，故曼谷有「東方威尼斯」之稱。遊覽巴士近九時抵達Amphawa Floating Market安帕瓦水上市場。
我們在一處專屬碼頭，登上一艘有忛布遮陽篷，可乘坐20餘人的遊船，作一個半小時包括水上市場和水上人家的遊覽。
水上市場長約500公尺，在狹窄的河面上，來往穿梭著各式各樣，大小不同，用途不同的船隻。其中最引人注目的是，頭戴平頂斗笠的婦人，單人操槳的售貨小船。船內載滿各種五顏六色的水果、蔬菜、花卉，靠近觀光遊船兜售。
使人驚訝的是，大船小船相互禮讓，居然能在兩船距離不足一呎內行走自如。
遊船接著進入水上人家，兩岸住戶門前窗前，家家戶戶佈滿各種花卉吊籃，如此幽美靜謐景象，使人心曠神怡。遊船折返原點，我們繼續行程，前往鐵道市場。(7）
離開水上市場，車行沒多久到達美功小鎮(Mae Klingon)，距離曼谷西南方約100公里。這裡可以看到全球唯一的鐵道市場奇觀，火車穿梭在攤販之中。
火車未駛進市場前，攤販佔據鐵道路基，緊貼著鐵軌兩旁，兩軌之間僅有1公尺20公分，就是人行道。
特殊的售賣攤位，像一輛超小型貨車，行動自如。
火車緩緩鳴笛駛進市場時，各攤販可從容在數秒鐘內，將攤子拉到待售位置。等火車駛離後，再推到原處繼續營業。
每日火車只有四班，觀賞奇景來回有八次，往往火車不準時，因此要事先卡位等待，攝影留念是必要的，但要小心安全。
這線火車近百年歷史，因其通過一座傳統市場，蔚為奇觀，因此未被拆除，被保留下來，如今成了全球知名度很高的觀光景點。
各攤位出售的蔬菜、水果、海鮮、肉品、生活雜貨、土產乾貨，應有盡有，且售價公道。
我們在鐵道市場及美功小鎮逗留近兩小時後，返回曼谷。（8）
下午二時許返抵曼谷，兩個小時後妹婿善鈞來到旅館，我們相談甚歡，談及兩天來曼谷觀光見聞。比較星、馬、越、泰四國，台灣觀光客以泰國為首選，除了曼谷外，另有清邁和普吉島也是很好的選擇。華航在曼谷有分公司，清邁和普吉島有辦事處。
晚間我們三人行，受邀赴幼蘭居所，共享除夕年夜飯。佔地約一個英畝，位於曼谷近郊的一個獨立莊園，綠樹婆娑花卉飄香，住屋寛敞，有一間設計新穎的書房，也是幼蘭夫婿徐位安先生的打坐修禪之地，在此我們佇足良久，傾聽位安先生的生活點滴，如沐春風，獲得啓示熏陶。
另有數位旅泰僑領初次見面，其中有一位在泰國經商近60年的蕭先生，其夫人吳大姐來自台灣。
一大桌豐盛的年夜菜中，有一道細質爽口香氣四溢的清蒸鰣魚，是幼蘭當天上午親赴菜場選購，並親自下廚烹飪，讓大家大快朵頤，稱讚不已。大家情致不減深談至午夜，幼蘭堅持親自駕車，送我們回到旅館。(9）
【2月19日，星期四
乙未年正月初一】
上午九時，撘乘地鐵至Saphan Taksin鄭王橋站，換搭渡輪順湄南河北上，約20分鐘航程，到達大皇宮碼頭上岸，遊覽宮內的玉佛寺等宮殿。
大皇宮建造於1782年(清乾隆47年)，面積21萬8千平方米，環繞整座大皇宮的宮牆有1千900米，包括玉佛寺在內的宮殿建築有34處之多。相較明清兩朝24帝，建成於明成祖永樂四年(1406年），面積15萬平方米，大小宮殿70多座的紫禁城，無論在大殿、御座、角樓、迴廊、宮牆、基本結構、文化特質上，各有千秋。
我們在威悉猜悉門購票進入，因為腹地廣闊，一天之內逐一參觀各宮各殿，絕無可能，只能選擇遊覧。（10）
我們參考遊覽導圖，為了精簡行程，35處景點縮減為10處。
《玉佛寺》
入宮後立即感受到它的雄偉氣勢，翠綠的大草坪左方，就是大皇宮西北角，自成一體的玉佛寺，佛寺四周以走廊環繞。
入寺後見一座大平台，平台上有相連的三座金塔，其中的「樂達納舍利塔」，供奉著佛陀的舎利子。
中間的一座「藏經樓」，建造於一世皇時代，藏經處以純金片打造。
再次一座呈十字形，高40米，殿頂有四層重檐的「碧隆天神殿」，殿前兩個角落各有一座，一世皇為了紀念父皇及母后而建造的雙金塔。
走出大平台，前往「大雄寶殿」，殿內供奉着用整塊翡翠雕成的玉佛，膝寛48公分，高66公分。
玉佛座前左右兩側，各有一尊三世皇為紀念一世及二世皇，而鑄造的帝皇佛像。佛像用青銅鑄成，外加黃金裝飾，每尊佛像使用黃金38公斤。
大雄寶殿，殿頂有三層重檐，上有龍首、龍鱗、鳳尾等構件裝飾，外層殿壁飾以彩色玻璃。
走出大雄寶殿，環視玉佛寺走廊，共有178幅壁畫，皆為一世皇時代作品，內容根據印度文學作品，繪成神話故事。
離開玉佛寺後，前往「武隆碧曼宮」。(11）
《武隆碧曼宮》
武隆碧曼宮是濕婆花園區內的一個主要宮殿，是一座歐洲式建築，建於1903年五世皇時代，是皇儲的宮院，也是接待國賓的地方。院內繪有印度吠陀神的壁畫，各畫下方標示著「國王十德」的要旨。隨後我們向西行，來到大皇宮早期建築摩天宮殿群。
《摩天宮殿群》
這個宮殿群由「因陀羅殿」、「偉大護國神殿」、「乍迦博碧曼」三座宮殿組成。因陀羅殿建於1785年一世皇時代，原是國王上朝聽政的地方，現在改為國家舉行重大典禮時的殿堂。
因陀羅殿之南是偉大護國神殿，裡面供奉著一尊由黃金鑄成的「暹羅護國神」像。此殿中有兩個國王舉行登基儀式的御座，暹羅䕶國神就供奉在兩個御座中間位置。
再向南行，到了乍迦博碧曼宮，此宮曾是一、二、三世皇起居的地方。宮門兩邊刻有內閣各行政部門的徽章，如內政部的獅子徽，國防部的象首獅身徽，外交部的手持蓮花的天神徽等等。我們對各個徽章的圖案設計，頗感興趣。聯想到中華民國行政院各部會，是否也能設計出一系列，凸顯中華文化圖騰的徽章。(12）
走出乍迦博碧曼宮，我們向西北方向走，來到節基殿。
《節基殿》
這座大皇宮內最具規模的皇殿，建成於1876年五世皇時代。「節基」有神盤和帝王的意思，也是曼谷皇朝的名稱。基本結構屬英女皇維多利亞時代的建築風格，有三個屬於泰國傳統建築藝術的方形尖頂。
節基殿分正、東、西三座，正座分三層，頂層是安奉歴代王族靈骨的地方，第二層是泰皇接見國賓的地方，下層是御林軍總部。
東座也有三層，頂層是歴代皇親國戚收集的藝品古玩展覽室，中層是國賓廳，低層是一般客廳。
西座頂層安奉歴代皇后、親王靈骨。中層是皇后賜見臣民的客廳，底層是一座圖書館。
《兜率殿》
離開節基殿，再往西行，來到兜率殿(Dusit Hal)，是一座泰國傳統宮殿建築。Dusit是印度文，佛經中譯為「兜率陀」。本殿呈十字形，殿頂有四層重檐，尖頂之下有一幅「金翅鳥捕龍像」，是傳說中的印度神話故事。殿內還陳列著一張一世皇的御床。
兜率殿更是作為國王、皇后、太后等人舉行喪禮的地方，其他重要大典，如國王登基紀念日等，也在本殿舉行。
我們在大皇宮走馬看花似的，作了五小時的精選遊覽，對於這個君主立憲的「泰族之邦」，有了一個摡括的認識。
走出大皇宮西門，已是下午三時。見數輛名為「TukTuk」的出租車，為了好奇搭上車，作市區遊。（13）
《嘟嘟車》
曼谷市區有一種極具特色的交通工具TukTuk嘟嘟車，以重型機車改裝成電動三輪車，因行駛時發生嘟嘟的噪音而得名，最多可乘四人。當地人很少搭乘，觀光客卻很青睞，索價不貲，通常是計程車的三倍。上車前必須談好價錢，不然會被坑。
我們搭上了嘟嘟車，未被噪音煩擾，反而享受到一種漫遊曼谷市區，難得的異國風情。
《四面佛》
嘟嘟車由大皇宮出發，經華南峰(Hua Lamphong)唐人街，到達沙拉鈴(Sala Daeng)。換搭BTS㨗運，由S2站到E1站(Chit Lom)，出了站就是曼谷市中心遊客眾多的四面佛觀光景點，附近有高級酒店及購物中心。
四面佛並未供奉在寺廟裡，而是在一個交叉路口上，每天至少吸引了近萬名觀光客膜拜。
半年後的8月17日，四面佛爆發了泰國史上最慘重的恐怖攻擊事件，22人死亡，上百人輕重傷，其中有四名中國遊客。(14）
離開了四面佛，搭BTS㨗運返回旅館，稍事休息後，前往Sala Daeng附近的一家餐廳，接受妹婿的邀請，出席下午六時華航曼谷分公司的新年團拜，看到包括公司同仁及眷屬、機師、空服員在內，近60餘人，喜氣洋洋相互祝福歡渡春節。妹婿這位大家長，還分發吉利包給每位小朋友，大家渡過了一個非常愉快的新春晩宴。當時舍妺在台北與家人過年，如果也在場，必定會增加更多的歡樂氣氛。
團拜後在返回旅店的途中，在㨗運沙拉鈴站，看見一位街頭藝人，看似來自中國大陸，也許是台灣，站在一個牆角邊，前面的小鐵筒裡，有好幾張小額的泰銖紙幤。
藝人正用小提琴拉著劉家昌作曲瓊瑤作詞的《一簾幽夢》，流水潺潺般的低吟，婉轉動人。在這大年初一的異國夜晚，聽來有一番悲愴淒美的感覺。（15）
【2月20日，星期五
乙未年正月初二】
今晨起床稍晚，早餐後到旅館附近的超市大賣場Big C，購買毎日必需飮用的礦泉水。這家超市在曼谷有連鎖店，類似台灣的大潤發、家樂福。
上午十時，幼蘭及其夫婿徐位安先生來到旅館，相邀赴佛丕（Phet Buri)及其周邊觀光景點作一日遊。
位安先生親自駕車，順著海邊向曼谷西南方向行駛。所經之處碧海藍天，遠眺曼谷灣內風平浪靜，偶有船隻通過。岸邊椰樹密集搖曳娑婆，一幅亞熱帶南國風情。
我們一行五人，進入一處海灘海鮮餐廳，位安先生點了數道正宗泰式海鮮料理。馳名的泰國對蝦，隻隻碩大肥美香嫩爽口，每隻都有半英尺長。佐以榮獲美國品酒協會評為亞洲最佳的泰國勝獅啤酒（Singha)，這次泰國行有福享受了難得的一次海鮮饕餮盛宴。
我們繼續向佛丕行進，佛丕又稱碧武里，面積6千2百平方公里，台灣六分之一大。是泰國中部一個具有悠久歴史的古城，西部高山森林覆蓋，是泰國和緬甸的天然分界線，東部有80公里長的海岸線，風景秀麗奇美，景點多達十處，短時間不能一一遊歴，只能選擇其中一二。(16）
回程順著差庵沙灘而東北行，途經佛丕直轄縣的「其立行宮歷史公園」。這座公園建於1860年，為拉瑪四世的行宮，是一處保有自然生態及人工造景的公園。所經之處緑意盎然，讓人心曠神怡。我們來到一處孔雀園，使我們雀躍不已的是，兩次看到雙孔雀開屏，這是我們五人，首次所見。
隨後到達筷子山Khao Takiab，近一個小漁村。山不高，林子裡公路上，全是大小不同的猴子，悠悠閒蕩，無視遊客存在。
原本猴子不多的這座小山，由於遊客不斷供食香蕉、花生、餅乾，甚至生力麵。在覓食無慮的情況下，繁殖力增加，無論老少眾猴，個個體態豐滿，逗趣可愛。可是高血壓、糖尿病隨之而來，壽命也就縮短不少。（17）
回到曼谷已是下午五時，位安夫婦送我們到旅館，時間還很充裕。隨後我們漫步在附近的大街上，看到三步五時就有一家旅行社，玻璃窗前張貼著巨幅遊覽泰國景點的招攬海報。如此場景，必定生意競爭激烈，出於好奇，進內了解一番。
比價之下，車資等花費，居然比旅館特約旅遊社，便宜近一半。當即登記付款，次日前往北碧府一日遊。
之後搭BTS空㨗，僅一站到達Nana娜娜夜市。曼谷的夜晚，越夜越美麗，夜市熱鬧氣氛，遠遠超過台北。各攤位排列整齊清潔，井然有序，未見有警察巡邏。買賣不成，仍然一團和氣，售貨員滿面笑容，合十答禮。對比今日台灣社會，就相形見絀了。(18）
【2月21日，星期六
乙未年正月初三】
上午六時三十分，一輛26人座的中型旅遊巴士，到旅館來接我們上車，車上已有五名遊客，車行至最後一站，全車坐滿。大約七點鐘，巴士開往距離曼谷西北方128公里的北碧府(Kanchanaburi)。導遊是一位會講英語的華裔年輕人阿豪先生，巴士行駛中阿豪作了行程說明，乘客也各自介紹了自己。
與我們鄰座的是一對年長的挪威夫婦，能說一口標準的英語及西班牙語，一路上彼此聊得很愉快。
北碧府面積1萬9千483平方公里，佔泰國面積二十六分之一，僅次於那空叻差是瑪府及清邁府，為泰國第三大省，人口73萬4千人。西部與緬甸為鄰，擁有泰國最大的雨林地帶，全境高山、森林、瀑布、河川密佈，北部更是山巒起伏，蜿蜒連綿，景色秀麗呈大自然原始風味。著名的景點有桂河大橋、戰爭博物館及死亡鐵路等等。（19)
二次大戰期間，泰緬兩國境內各有一條鐵路，一條由曼谷順昭披耶河北上至北碧府，另一條由仰光經毛淡棉跨薩爾溫江，到近泰國邊境的丹彪扎亞。
如果將兩條鐵路連接起來，將是一條陸上運輸㨗徑。從中南半島各國運送軍需物資，就不必繞過新加坡經麻六甲海峽到達仰光，至少可以節省十天時間。
連結兩條鐵路最近的距離，在泰國北碧府境內。測量山勢地形，最省時省力的建築路線，至少有400公里，而且要跨越一條河寬至少200公尺的大桂河，搭建一座大橋。當時在南亞作戰的日本軍，評估形勢，建築這條鐵路，有其戰略上的價值。（20）
《死亡鐵路》
20世紀初，英國曾勘測這條鐵路建成的可能性，因路段艱險工程艱鉅而放棄。
二次大戰日本在戰爭逼迫下，動員戰俘20萬人，強徵泰、緬、馬、中各國勞工25萬人，於1942年6月初，在泰緬兩國同時動工。日軍驅使盟軍戰俘及勞工，日夜趕工，在糧食飲水供應不足、過度疲勞、營養不良、醫藥短缺、環境衛生惡劣情況下，累死、餓死、病死、自盡而死的人，多達11萬人。平均每五步路就有一人冤死在鐵軌上，因此這條道路有《死亡鐵路》之稱。預計六年的施工期，卻在1943年10月17日，17個月內完成。(21）
我們一行人，在距離桂河大橋南方不到五公里的一處盟軍陣亡官兵墓園入口處，稍作半小時停留。
在此墓園內，長眠着6982名，被迫害建築鐵路而死亡的盟軍官兵，包括英、加、澳、紐、荷。一排排的墓碑排列整齊，環境清幽，花木扶疏，有專人管理。我們僅在園外，向這些為國捐軀的烈士們默哀致敬。
有一位墓園隔街雜貨店的華裔老闆說，相信是死亡官兵的後裔，幾乎每個星期，都有人到墓園獻花默禱追思。（22）
《戰爭博物館》
續程來到通拍蓮縣與緬甸接壤的一個小鎮，一條名為Kwai的大河流經此鎮。
著名的桂河大橋(River Kwai Bridge)及戰爭博物館(Jeath war museum)，都在方圓不到一公里的範圍內。
旅遊巴士停靠在Maenamk Wai路邊，一下車就看到博物館的入口。
入口處的巷道上，陳列着一輛，當年行駛在死亡鐵路上的蒸氣火車頭，牆面上有英文及中文正體字說明。二戰時期同盟國的國旗，都排列其上，中華民國青天白日滿地紅的國旗，相當顯眼。
入內分成許多單元，有築路工具、工寮帳棚、炊具用品、禁閉室、牙醫器材、刑具等等。最珍貴的是，戰俘建築鐵路及搭建桂河大橋時，拍攝下的照片。
博物館門票一張40泰銖，折合美金1元5角。遺憾的是，內部陳舊不堪，疏於管理，館內居然有攤販及雜貨店。我們在此停留不到一個小時，下一站到桂河大橋。（23）
《桂河大橋》
從戰爭博物館到桂河大橋，步行10分鐘即可到達。這是一座死亡鐵路上，跨度最長，施工最艱鉅，施工期間戰俘勞工死亡最多，屢遭盟軍轟炸的跨河大橋。原為木橋建築，1942年11月動工，1943年9月完成，建材來自印尼蘇門答臘，後以石墩鋼筋加固，並添鋼質護欄，以策行人安全。目前已成觀光景點，每日有兩班當年的蒸氣火車，掛著兩個車廂，以時速10公里，緩慢通過大橋。我們來得巧，目睹了一次驚艷的場景。
1957年有一部以英軍戰俘，被日本軍隊不人道對待，建築大橋為背景的電影《桂河大橋》，10月2日在英國各地上映，獲得英國電影史上最佳好評。次年1958年，該片榮獲第30屆奧斯卡金像獎包括最佳影片、最佳導演在內的七項大獎。
這部影片該年也在台灣上演，造成轟動。導演大衞連，演員亞歷堅尼斯、威廉霍爾登、早川雪洲，以及那首清澈響亮的口哨之歌「布基上校進行曲」，留給觀眾深刻印象。(24）
《大象村》
離開桂河大橋，巴士向南行，來到位於柿約縣北，Kwai河的一處浦岸改搭竹筏，坐在竹椅上，船夫撐竿划槳順水而下，觀賞兩岸秀麗風光。這是我們從來沒有過的體驗，讓人心曠神怡。竹筏緩緩行進，約15分鐘靠在對岸一處大象村，上了岸。騎大象是此行旅遊項目之一。
在泰國，有很多府縣都有大象村。不只是泰國，在緬甸、柬埔寨、寮國都有大象村。
大象在印度，被視為神物，曾是佛陀的座騎。在南亞和東南亞的佛教文化中，大象具有重要的文化意義。
1980年代，各國如雨後春筍發展觀光，將馴養的大象，當作遊客騎行取樂的工具，大象疲勞過度暴斃猝死的新聞，時有所聞。
21世紀，動物保護意識提升，越來越多的單位及個人，對那些將囚禁中的動物，作為商業行為，感到反感。
眼前的這個大象村，大約有老幼象隻20多頭，小象才三歲大，就被迫加入勞動行列。
我們排隊等候，兩人合騎一頭，輪到我們的卻是一頭小象，秀蓮及Anderson母子，為了減輕小象的負荷，選擇單獨坐騎，Anderson輕輕的拍了拍象背，說道：寶寶，可以出發了。小象用奇異又感激的眼神看著這位遊客，並且用牠的鼻子，親吻了Anderson。象是有靈性的動物，這一幕讓我們感動。(25）
《觀光鐵路》
緬泰死亡鐵路在二次大戰结束前數月，已被盟軍轟炸得支離破碎。戰後這條鐵路泰境部分，經營管理權交給了泰國政府。1949年4月，逐步修復，然而全程只有三分之一在利用。
目前這條路線從終點站Nam Tok算起，也只有50公里在行駛，運輸功能已失，卻成了一條觀光鐵路。
我們離開了大象村，再度搭乘竹筏，返回原浦岸碼頭。巴士將我們送往Nam Tok站，享受一次蒸氣火車觀光之旅，全程共7站，站距5至8公里。
火車順著小桂河，在距離河面50至80公尺高的台地上，以時速40公里行駛。窗外的風景隨著火車的前進，近觀、遠眺、俯瞰，場景一幕幕變換。
白雲在遠方山腰中游動，蜿蜒的山間小路，繞過樹林連結數間歐式的別墅小樓。一群大白鷺在河邊嬉水覓食。河面的竹筏、雙人操舟，來回穿梭。
風格新穎的小旅館，建築在草地花叢綠樹之中。鄉村俱樂部的露天廳臺前，一群人祝福一對新人，在進行結婚儀式。
在如此有著田園詩般，風光明媚的景觀下，坐著古早風味的蒸氣火車，漫遊觀賞，不枉此行了。（26）
結束了火車之旅，巴士在車站等候我們上車。在車上彼此已經沒有距離，大家談笑風生，有些互相交換了電話及網路地址。萍水相逢之中，四海之內皆兄弟姊妹，交了一些新朋友，感到相當愉快，回到曼谷已是華燈初上時刻。
在旅館附近，進了一間餐館，點了包括東蔭功魚、泰北鹵肉、素炒四季豆在內的數様泰菜，又一次品嚐了正宗的泰式餐飲，滿足了味蕾，填飽了肚皮。
【2月22日，星期日
乙末年正月初四】
經過了一天的旅遊行程，雖有舟車的勞頓，但今天仍然起了一個大早。餐後，搭乘BTS㨗運緑線，至N8蒙奇Mo Chit站，下車向北步行約10分鐘，到達乍都乍週末市場。
《曼谷週末市場》
Chatuchak Market乍都乍週末市場，是曼谷最大的市集，逢週六、週日開放，佔地有14萬平方公尺。20世紀初，只是一個批發商和商人的交易場所，現在已經是遊客必定造訪的觀光景點。
1982年開放設攤營業，目前已有1萬5千個攤位，舉凡農、漁、牧、禽、日用品、雜貨，進口商品、本地産品，應有盡有。每個交易日，約有20萬人到訪。2008年6月起，全區禁菸，違者罰4千泰銖，約合美金66元。這個市場每年為泰國賺取了至少美金20億元的外滙收入。
泰國有豐沛的觀光資源，發展觀光產業是全方位的。2018年旅遊人數有3千5百萬，2020年可達4千萬。2016年的觀光收益達泰銖1萬6千4百億元，折合美金約542億元，佔全國GDP總值的百分之17．7。
不過未來幾年，如此優異的成績，因政治因素，可能不會達標，也值得中華民國借鏡參考。
這個週末市集實在太大了，只能走馬看花瀏覧一番。(27）
離開了週末市場，已是下午三時，沒有回旅館休息。去搭乘㨗運淺綠線轉深緑線至S6鄭王橋站下車，步行至河濱碼頭，改搭渡輪至Asiatique河濱夜市。遠觀巨大的摩天輪廣場地標，在緩緩轉動。
這座落成於2012年4月27日的亞洲最大夜市，呈現的是歐美風格，各區攤位整齊清潔，管理得井然有序。商店生意興隆，餐館座無虛席。我們沿著河濱，逐步逛遊攤位，看着湄南河的夜景，越夜越美麗。走進室內商圈，各式各樣的商品，任人選購，裝璜新頴的設計，置身其中讓人流連忘返。
《變性人劇坊》
馳名國際的泰國變性人Calypso反串美女秀(俗稱人妖秀)，此處的演出水準，遠高於其他各處。每晚兩場，每場75分鐘，我們選擇8時20分開演的首場。
盛大的排場，在精典熱門歌曲的演奏下，由變性美女演出具有泰、中、日、韓各國，獨特民族文化的歌舞劇。泰國的孔舞、日本的蝴蝶夫人、韓國的阿里郎，都在劇中出現。
代表中國的編劇編舞，以上海灘為背景，演一位黑社會頭頭與一位美貌女子的愛情故事。頭頭擁眾美女於一身，小女子用情專一，但死於醋意槍下。
變性人從事演藝事業，在泰國受到法律保障，如有輕視或性侵行為，將受到嚴厲的譴責和處罰。回程在娜娜夜市，再次遊逛，步行到旅館，已近午夜。（28）
離開了安多哥農夫市場，直接搭BTS到E1七隆站(Chit Lom)下車，去逛曼谷最大的一座百貨公司Central World Mall中央世界商業中心。位於曼谷黃金精華地段，結合購物、餐飲、娛樂、辦公室的綜合商場大樓。2006年7月21日開幕，由Central Word Plaza、伊勢凡、Zen三大百貨公司組成。這是我們在泰國旅遊的最後一個行程，近下午四時回到旅館，分別以電話向位安夫婦、蕭先生夫婦、善鈞妹婿話別。盼望再次回來旅遊，行程將包括泰北清邁府及普吉島。
一座比Central World Mall更新穎更現代化的綜合百貨商場Iconsiam，於2018年11月9日開幕，斥資超過540億泰銖，折合美金18億元。是一座把水上巿場搬進室內的百貨公司，也是一座娛樂城。氣派豪華成了曼谷湄南河畔的新地標。
晚間八時，赴曼谷機場，搭乘11：00PM中國南方航空班機經武漢回上海。(30）
【2月24日，星期二
乙未年正月初六】
中國南方航空班機，因地勤作業延遲至次日(2月24日)凌晨近二時起飛，到達武漢已是清晨6時20分。
想不到的是，過了移民關，領取行李的時間，長達75分鐘，出外旅遊前所未見。
出了國際航線第一航站至國內航線第二航站，居然還沒有室內㨗運系統。必須走出室外，行李隨旅客由機場巴士接送。
當天武漢室外溫度是攝氏6度，由攝氏31度的曼谷飛到此地，溫度急降25度，寒氣逼人病苦難忍。
更想不到的是，等候機場巴士的時間，也長達7分鐘，被旅客駡翻。
巴士停車開門，隊伍也不排了，爭先恐後一擁而上搶座位，蔚為奇觀。
最近五年，武漢大力推動建設，九座長江大橋，將武漢三鎮合為一體，極有可能先廣州一步，成為中華人民共和國第五個國務院直轄市。
2017年8月31日，武漢天河機場三航站投入營運，但未見有一條室內㨗運系統。
到達上海已是下午一點，室外溫度攝氏10度。(31，本篇完)
第4篇：雲翔寺
與寒山寺
2014年10月26日，我與妻自台北啓程，與同一天由底特律到達上海的小兒Anderson會合，下榻浦東文華東方酒店。距離我離開中國大陸已經有65年，沒有想到四個月內竟然去了上海兩次。
Anderson因職務外派，要在上海尋覓一處未來三年的住所，請父母給他一點參考意見，也在就任前了解一下新單位的工作環境。上海只停留了八天，住所覓妥後各自回到工作崗位底特律及寓所洛杉磯。
12月8日，孩子從上海打來電話，述說他到任第一天的工作情形，並傳來好的消息，邀請父母於翌年春節期間，配合他的假期，先到泰國旅遊再回上海觀光。
2015年2月15日春節前，我與妻再次到了上海。正因為這一年是中華民國對日抗戰勝利70週年，先父參與淞滬會戰78週年。計劃在上海去憑弔父親當年參加戰役時的兩處駐地，南翔雲翔寺和蘇州寒山寺，因此此行也就更具意義。泰國七日旅遊後，回到上海已是二月下旬，上海已有江南初春景象。(1）
曼谷回來仍在年假之中，經過一整天的休息，次日至一街之隔的浦東正大廣場逐樓漫遊，是一處包括地下地上共計13層樓的大型商場，集購物、餐飲、娛樂、精品店、時裝店、銀行、電影院於一體。
在正大廣場七樓晚餐後，我們穿過酒店住宅的後花園，走向黃埔江畔。
展現眼前的是讓人驚艷迷人的景色，寛敞平坦的紅磚步道上，排列着古意盎然的路燈。燈光照射在長達兩百多公尺的步道花壇上，花香撲面而來。高空中懸掛的月亮，倒映在黃埔江中，與群樓中閃爍的巨型霓虹燈及穿梭在江中的彩舫、渡輪相互輝映。對岸外灘放射着璀燦的燈光，裝點出不夜城絢麗的夜空，彷彿走進了張若虛筆下「春江花月夜」的圖畫中。
我們坐定在一盞路燈旁的長板凳上，開始談天說地。我給Anderson講故事，妻一起傾聽。講我的童年上海，講爺爺當年參加八一三淞滬會戰時的軼事，也安排了未來數日的行程。（2）
《古鎮雲翔寺》
2月28日星期六，是個陰雨天，我們去了南翔，探訪古鎮老街及雲翔寺。民國26年「八一三淞滬會戰」爆發時，先父時任陸軍通信兵第一團補充營少尉排長，曽駐紥在雲翔寺，一頁戰爭的故事在此發生。
進入南翔市區已近中午，本擬至江南名園古猗園遊覽，並用小籠包午餐。無奈遊客如織，購票入園者大排長龍。為了節省時間，中餐改在大街飯館將就。餐後迫不急待，趕赴老街。
老街與一條小河平行，垂柳綠樹傍水而生，煙雨之中有一層濛濛之感。古鎮老街，閣樓建築呈現明清風格，石板鋪成的小街兩旁，酒旗布招迎風飄揚。茶坊、酒樓、店鋪、藥房、食品作坊、技藝表演，樣樣具全，漫步其中讓人流連忘返。元朝詩人蘇昌齡形容此地為「千載南翔古道場，層樓傑閣冠諸方。」道出了古鎮的千年芳華。今日古鎮老街不僅是庶民的商業中心，更是上海的觀光景點。
順着老街走到盡頭，一座建築於西元505年(南朝梁武帝天監4年）的古寺《雲翔寺》進入視線。
雲翔寺因其歴史悠久被譽為江南第一寺，原名南翔寺，傳說建寺期間有一白鶴，每日佇足建地，建成後飛往南方，因而得名。
西元1700年，清康熙帝南巡至此，題額更名為雲翔寺。1937年淞滬會戰時，古寺受日軍砲火波及，修復後保有原來結構，不失其超塵拔俗剛勁雄健之氣勢。
在這初春時節，漫步在古鎮老街上，頗有一種懷古幽情迷濛遊蹤的感覺。杜牧《江南春》「千里鶯啼綠映紅，水村山郭酒旗風。南朝四百八十寺，多少樓台煙雨中。」是對江南景物的讚歌，也是對過往歷史的一種感嘆。(3）
走入雲翔寺，見香火繚繞，信眾絡繹不絕。我們持香禮拜，祈福風調雨順國泰民安。隨後至各佛殿巡禮，一路隨緣遇到寺院住持。我略述先父於八一三淞滬會戰時，駐紮此寺的一段往事。這位耄耋僧人略有所聞，與其同行來到正殿右前方的一排禪房，推測應是當時的營房，那麼最內靠牆的一間，就是電話總機房了。我們在房前拍照留念，臆想父親口述當年在此發生的情景，久久不忍離去。
淞滬戰爭期間，父親駐紮雲翔寺39天，也是戰火最激烈的一個多月。通信兵在戰場上，首要任務就是維持通訊暢通。部隊有新據點，電話線就必須首先架設到位。如遭破壞就要搶修，那怕是在猛烈的砲火下，也要冒死完成任務。這場戰役父親帶領的弟兄，一人陣亡六人輕重傷，換來任務的達成。
因日軍在水源、水井下毒，存水用盡，馬尿視為珍品。因遍地烽火市場交易停擺，糧秣補給中斷，以致無米可炊，遂與僧侶分食南瓜。田裏已無農作可收，唯有冒險挖掘山坡野菜充饑果腹。
回想父親敘述當年的雲翔寺：寺內的香火，沖淡了漂浮的屍臭。夜空中稀疏的星星伴著月亮，不見飛鳥卻見禿鷹。半夜裏的鐘聲木魚聲，在嘶殺槍砲聲中，不停敲打。雲翔寺像一座巍峨的大山，在戰火中屹立不搖。
在雲翔寺見景思人，父親的身影一直在腦海盤旋裊繞。回程走在古鎮老街的石板路上，寺內的誦經聲漸遠漸弱。（4）
《蘇州寒山寺》
3月7日星期六，天空一片藍，良辰吉時遊覽蘇州寒山寺。
民國26年（1937年)10月31日，八一三淞滬會戰中期結束，國軍完全撤出上海，指揮中心遷往蘇州，先父由南翔雲翔寺遷紥蘇州寒山寺。
寒山寺因唐朝詩人張繼的一首《楓橋夜泊》「月落烏啼霜滿天，江楓漁火對愁眠。姑蘇城外寒山寺，夜半鐘聲到客船。」而馳名中外。
寒山寺原名楓橋寺，建於南朝梁武帝天監年間，稍晚於雲翔寺。兩百年後，唐朝詩僧寒山子，來此住持，更名為寒山寺。
先父駐紥寒山寺時，節令已過「霜降」，已有寒意，清晨可見秋霜鋪地，寺內增添一番蕭瑟。入夜人靜，遠方陣陣的槍砲聲斷斷續續，牆外銜命戰士疾走戰場，肅殺之氣砭入飢骨，令人悚然。
父親孤守電話總機房內，三更之後眺望夜空，只見星月不見烏啼。江楓漁火已無蹤跡，只見松枝晃動寒夜襲人，無復夜半鐘聲。
大約是11月7、8日上下，一個星期日的清晨，先父值班守在總機旁，接通了蔣委員長打給湯恩伯將軍的電話。通話不到一分鐘，電訊突然中斷，先父潛意識地奔出室外，見一人在電線桿上剪電話線，下面還有一名助手接應。隨即掏出手槍朝向二人射擊，居然出奇神準，二人均中要害當場斃命。隨後毫不猶豫奔回室內，提起接線工具，爬上電桿搶接電線。前後不到七分鐘，電話搶通。
電話中湯恩伯向委員長報告情形，獲得委員長嘉許。一週後通信兵團傳令，父親記大功一次。稍後奉調漢口，接受新的任務，晉升中尉。（5）
我們回憶父親的口述，參考寒山寺的平面圖，找到電話總機的位置。機房座北朝南，後面是一道界牆，牆外是馬路，東面是人行道，出了機房兩個左轉，約30步遠，是通往馬路的寺院側門。父親就是從這個側門，奔向馬路電線桿，擊斃兩名漢奸。父親口述中的木製電線桿，如今已換成輸送電力的高壓水泥桿了。
我們看到捻香膜拜的信衆，以寧靜的心境、清明的胸懷，無盡的情意，表達對佛陀的虔誠。遙想當年父親所見與我們今日所遇，感受雷同。雖然時間有異，却空間相同。
父親在八一三淞滬戰役中，表現出他的睿智和英勇。他服務軍職近40年，以「主義、領袖、國家、責任、榮譽。」軍人五大信念為圭臬。回顧他一生對國家的忠誠，在通信作戰上的卓越貢獻，足可稱得上是一位熱愛國家的模範軍人。父親畢業於黃埔軍校通信兵科17期，名其二，字仲影，民國96年（2007年)10月9日，逝世於台北市，享年九十歲。
離開前，我們登上西側八角鐘樓，俯視寒山寺全景，眺望當年的電話總機房，久久不移視線，心中黙禱父親在天永福。寫七絕一首以誌纪念：
七十八年歧嶇路，
楓橋寒山景依舊。
哲人黃鶴踪已遠，
憑欄追思登鐘樓。
（註釋：七十八年，從1937年淞滬會戰起，至2015年探訪寒山寺止，相隔78年。）(6，本篇完）
第5篇：克里夫蘭
搖滾行
2019年10月18日，我與妻赴底特律小兒住所，作五個星期的停留。一來為他做一些他喜愛吃的中國菜及一些藥饍，調補調補身體外，二來每週六及週日出外旅遊，看看入秋後的密西根州美景。
前兩週先後到過法蘭肯斯Frankenmuth德國小鎮，亨利福特美國創新博物館(Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation)，密西根州立大學農業實驗林場隱湖花園(Hidden Lake Gardens)。
11月2日星期六，天氣晴朗，我們選擇跨州行，去了俄亥俄州Ohio的克里夫蘭(Cleveland)，路過二線城市Toledo參觀傳統農夫市場，及具有百年歷史地標之一的克里夫蘭傳統西儲市場。
此行重點是參觀克里夫蘭的搖滾名人堂(Rock and Roll Hall of Fame)，這是一座成立於1986年，展示與紀錄搖滾音樂相關歴史與人物、藝術家、作品創作人的博物館。(1）
克里夫蘭是俄亥俄州第二大都市，次於首府哥倫布市，位於伊利湖(Lake Erie)南岸，凱霍加河(Cuyahoga River)河口。二次大戰期間，為軍需工業大城，與賓夕法尼亞州的匹茲堡市齊名。
克里夫蘭於1796年建市，是世界搖滾音樂之都，有其宗教、種族、歷史、地緣政治上的種種原因。
17世紀20年代，一批英格蘭分離主義者，從英國普利茅斯港橫渡大西洋，到達新大陸定居下來，後續者陸續湧進。
為了新天地的建設經營，急需大批勞工。一批批來自西南非洲的黑人，被人口販子用拐騙或強押方式，像豬仔一般運到新大陸。從此與家鄉絕緣，成了終身奴隸。到了17世紀中葉，一些算是有點人性的業主，將其家屬親人，接去團圓，但是仍然過著低賤的奴隸生活。(2）
包括英屬西南非洲殖民地甘比亞、加納、喀麥隆等地的黑人奴工，多半生活在美國南方各州，從喬治亞、阿拉巴馬、密西西比、田納西、肯塔基到德克薩斯都有。
這些離鄉背井的非洲裔美國人，長期生活在思鄉、焦慮、恍神、無奈的狀況下，常以兩種方式抒發情緒解除壓力。一是到專屬的教堂做禮拜，二是用歌聲唱出心中的鬱悶，沖淡對家鄉的思念。
歌聲藉由做禮拜的機會，伴隨著家鄉傳統的舞蹈，快節奏的盡情奔放。但也有賦就期盼追求理想的慢節奏藍調歌唱，音樂家們將這些唱作俱佳的歌聲，稱為黑人靈歌。逐漸引導出郷村音樂、爵士音樂，以及1950年代至今歷久不衰的搖滾音樂。(3）
1950年代的美國，國強民富，富甲天下，廣播事業進入了一個新里程，幾乎家家戶戶都有收音機，黑人歌曲藉此傳播至全國各地，當時克里夫蘭是美國廣播電台最多的城市。
1951年克里夫蘭WJW廣播電台音樂節目主持人Alan Freed將黑人歌曲引進，逐漸被白人接受。尤其是快節奏的歌曲，由年輕人領唱，帶入家庭、校園、社會，蔚成風氣。Alan Freed在節目中突發奇想，給這種歌曲命名為Rock and Roll。
50年代中期，美國唱片製作業如雨後春筍。全自動換片的電唱機已很風行，更加助長了Rock and Roll的傳播。此股風潮很快由克里夫蘭傳開，1959年一次超大型的演唱會在此舉行。這一年，流行樂之王(King of POP)麥可傑克森(1958-2009)尚未出生。四歲就開始演唱的麥可傑克森，於1968年經親友介紹，從他的家鄉田納西州的孟斐斯到達密西根州的底特律，出版了他的第一張唱片，由他的哥哥带领在街頭開唱，造成轟動。
1963年搖滾樂傳到英國，披頭四樂團從此開始。1965年流行於舊金山、洛杉磯、紐約，往後幾年更遍佈全國各大小城市。
戰後一代的年輕人，因搖滾音樂，找到了一個抒發情感的缺口，年長者也由不能接受轉為喜愛。
為了助長演唱的效果，也激發了服裝設計師的創意，各種各樣的服飾，紛紛出爐。(4）
在推廣搖滾音樂的過程中，50年代及60年代的收音機廣播，70年代至90年代的電視廣播，到21世紀的網路傳播。產生了上百名頗具盛名有關搖滾樂相關的作曲家、歌手、藝術家。
1986年前後，有貓王艾維斯普里斯萊、詹姆斯布朗、傑瑞劉易斯、女歌手艾瑞莎弗蘭克林，近60人。
在樂團方面，着名的有披頭四樂團(喬治哈里森、約翰藍儂、保羅麥卡尼、林哥史達），漂流者組合，至上女聲組合，超過30餘團。
其次，美軍派駐海外基地的官兵及聘雇人員，推廣Rock and Roll也功不可沒。從韓戰結束至目前仍在持續中的阿富汗、伊拉克戰爭，60餘年來，常駐海外官兵近35萬人，輪調官兵超過400萬人。搖滾音樂隨着這些年輕官兵們的引進，不但帶動了當地的流行，更影響到當地歌手的演唱路線及作曲家的思路。
在台灣就是一個例子，歌手歐陽菲菲唱的一首《熱情的沙漠》，風靡了不少聽眾和觀眾。其韻律幾乎與POP搖滾《California Dreaming》如出一轍。(5）
60年代中期，美國國內的民權運動及反戰運動，在全國各大城市及大學校園，興起漫延。尤其是戰後出生的一代，無法容忍現實，紛紛走上街頭。
當時西歐國家的年輕人，同樣與美國一樣，有着同樣的感受。搖滾音樂正逢其時，填補了心靈上的空虛，英國披頭四的崛起，是一個明顯的例子。
80年代MTV在美國流行，助長了搖滾樂的影響力。美國政府也大力協助，推廣至亞洲及中南美洲，甚至深入東歐各國及中國大陸。深度影響了當地年輕人，對歐美民主國家的嚮往，解放了他們長期以來的精神壓迫。
美國的軟功能，不到十年時間，最終摧毀了東歐及蘇聯的解體，也影響到中國大陸，這是美國外史上的一項大突破。
我們在克里夫蘭Rock and Roll大道，Lake Erie湖畔的搖滾名人堂博物館，逗留了三小時，暸解到搖滾音樂推廣的過程，著名歌手及作曲家的生活，以及對全球產生的影響。（6，本篇完）
简介中原为英文的部分由 AI（Claude）于 2026 年 11 月译成中文，尚未经作者审阅。作者的中文原文保留繁体字。
三册原 PDF 共有 81 个字因字体缺字而无法显示，本页已根据上下文补上，可能有出入。
本文保留原文的繁体字。
第叁章：天涯若比鄰
第1篇：原鄉之旅
上海行
前言：1970年代在台灣有本《旅行雜誌》我幾乎每期都看愛不釋手，緣起於我在大陸生活了十年，隨父親服務的部隊，歷經了抗戰、內戰，四處飄泊，看到的是被蹂躪過的破碎山河。
1950年到了台灣，學習、工作、生活了30年。在那個年代，能夠出國的僅限於留學生，有錢人家也很難到國外旅遊觀光。
我一直期盼有那麼一天，能夠到國外見識見識，並且回到闊別近70年的中國大陸，找回童年的記憶。
1980年，我暫時離別了父母，與妻兒一家人到了巴拿馬，想想也許很快就會回去，未料一待就是40年，巴拿馬20年美國20年。
我和妻托孩子的福，最近五年到了一些歐、美、東南亞國家旅遊，更有幸再度踏上久違了的祖國故土，圓了當年的夢想。（1)
本文：1950年代我在台灣唸小學，在常識課本上讀到上海是世界第五大都市。我不知道是怎樣評鑑出來，人口稠密、交通繁忙、工商發達、都市建設現代化，應該都在選項之內。
抗戰勝利後三年內，我曾兩次到上海。1946年父親軍職外調赴東北履新，路過上海停留三個星期。1948年12月，因徐蚌會戰情勢危殆，隨母親由青島避難上海。
1949年6月青島撤退，跟著父母隨軍到達海南。1950年1月，由海口到了台灣。時經65年，我再也沒有踏上中國大陸這塊土地。
1987年台灣地區宣佈解嚴，開放大陸探親。此後二十年間，父母曾四次到上海。2010年上海世博會母親五度登陸，躬逢其盛。弟弟妹妹、弟媳妹婿等數次出入大陸，唯獨我遲遲未歸。
我對錦繡河山始終有一種山遙水闊、世事茫茫、既戀又怯、既欲又懼，近鄉情傷的感覺。對上海的印象，一半靠回憶一半靠想像，想像來自父母的口述，補足了模糊的記憶。
想當年在上海，外灘車水馬龍，坐黃包車過外白渡橋，到大光明戲院看電影，到永安百貨買球鞋，扲著䁔水瓶幫媽媽到巷頭買開水，真如鄉下掘野薺菜等等，都烙印在兒時的記憶中。
長期以來媒體披露台胞回鄉的信息，不勝枚舉。老兵返家喜慶團圓、千里孤墳無處話淒涼、終身積蓄被親戚騙盡、生前託友人死後將骨灰罈送回原鄉的故事，時有所聞。
對我而言，諸多的客觀因素影響了主觀意識，原鄉之旅舉棋不定。（2）
2010年3月，我用了八個月的時間，寫完一篇6萬6千字的長文《十年流離看山河》，文內有一段是這樣寫的：長江戰事告急，上海危在旦夕，母親帶著孩子撘船折返青島。母親和我站在利春輪的船頭上，眺望大上海，在斜陽的催航下，黃浦江漸漸消失在視線之外。
想到這段往事，我在書中賦七言絕句一首，描述母親當時的感受。《黃埔江上白雲間，愁見孤城落日邊。吹笛何須怨楊柳，重逢時日待何年。》。心想時至今日已近耄耋之年，此生重逢大陸山川，恐無機緣。
2014年9月28日，Anderson從底特律來電告知，接獲福特汽車總公司人事異動公函，調派他至上海亞太總部服務，生效日為12月1日。
這一通喜從天降的電話，讓我們雀躍不已。感謝天主給我們家人的恩賜。一來小兒的工作能力受到肯定，二來重逢大陸的心願有了機緣，一道通往上海的大門已經打開。
福特公司喻Anderson就任前，先赴上海亞太總部了解，並覓妥居所，十月下旬完成。於是長兒Anthony在網上訂購了從洛杉磯經台北到上海的機票。十月七日我和妻搭上《原鄉之旅上海行》的飛機。(3)
10月8日晚抵達台北，此行先回家探望母親，在台18天陪伴母親，不作其他活動。次日適逢爸媽結婚75週年紀念，失去老伴有7年的母親深居簡出，聖堂修女到家為母親送聖體，求聖神降臨，全家人施以慈愛的照顧，永福的歡欣。
在台期間，母親追憶八年抗戰及國共內戰一路逃難的情景。她希望後生晚輩，傾聽爺爺奶奶、父親母親那一代人顚沛流離的故事，用文字表達出來。讓世世代代的中華兒女，銘記這頁悲壯的歷史。
10月26日，我與妻搭乘華航的班機直飛上海。我坐在靠窗的位置，見機身搖曳在白雲之上，臆想久別65年的錦繡山河，種種人事物。
飛機減速逐漸下降，盤旋在上海上空，清晰可見高樓林立，黃浦江上的遊輪穿梭。頗有《渚清沙白鳥飛回，不盡長江滾滾來。》的感受。腦際浮現的卻是2006年仲夏，父親病中吟出的那首絕句：青山綠水依舊在，月明故國九州同。神州復興統一日，家祭毋忘告乃翁。飛機着陸的那一刻，心情由平靜轉為激動。(4）
步出機門，視線之內皆是驚艷，眼前的浦東機場，建築美侖美奐、設計新穎，可稱世界一流。
在入境大廳等候小兒接機，他於三小時前，由舊金山經北京到達上海。見他神采奕奕迎面走來，此行是為了尋覓一處未來三年的住所，趁此請父母到上海一遊。
步出機場行走數分鐘，到達磁浮列車站。享受一次陸上最快速交通工具《子彈列車》的震撼，全長31公里，最高時速387公里，不設中點站，8分鐘可跑完全程。當時在中國大陸是一條示範營運線，如今(2019年）已有五條線擴至全國各地。
2019年5月24日，在山東青島測試更新一代的磁浮列車，最高時速可達600公里的目標，預計三至五年完成，屆時北京到上海只需三個半小時。
坐在快㨗、平穩、舒適的車廂裏，看窗外小河、木橋、田埂、池塘飛逝而過。眺望遠方的田野、農舍、樹林，在濛濛細雨中展現生機。腦海里油然而生1949年我在真如鄉下，那段挖掘野薺菜，拾菜幫子，撿枯枝竹葉當柴燒的日子。
那年春節前，母親帶著我到曹家渡採購年貨，交通工具卻是租用的腳踏車，客人坐在後座貨架上，車主揮汗踩車，行走在顚簸不平的碎石子路上。15公里的路程，用了兩個小時，踩車人和坐車人，同樣吃盡苦頭。比較兩種交通工具，不可同日而語。
走出磁浮龍陽車站改搭計程車，路過錦綉路，順世紀大道，經環球金融中心、金茂大廈，繞過東方明珠廣播電視塔，到達文華東方酒店。
所經之處高樓大廈聳入雲霄，都市美化有稜有角，展現在眼前的是，驚人的視覺感受。
上海浦東自1992年起，進行大規模有計劃的都市建設。只不過20餘年就脫胎換骨，媲美世界一流都市紐約、芝加哥。掘起的中國，突變中的上海，讓世人驚喜、驚訝、驚艷、驚奇。
我們住進酒店第21層樓，一間有客廳的房間，環顧各室佈置典雅、家具考究、燈光柔和，落地窗外的黃浦江美景，盡收眼底。頓時心曠神怡，遊途的疲憊一掃而光。
眺望對岸浦西外灘，夕陽從群樓後方下沉，俯瞰黃浦江水，濤濤東流入海，景氣壯闊氣勢渾宏。佇立窗前沉思良久，不知今夕何夕，恍如一夢。不禁想起一千三百年前，王之渙在蒲州(今山西省永濟市)黃河東岸鸛鵲樓上，眺望遠方原野，目送滾滾黃河，歌詠壯麗山河的那首詩《白日依山盡，黃河入海流。欲窮千里目，更上一層樓。》。
對岸遠方的國際客運中心碼頭隱約可見，65年前母親帶著孩子在那裏搭船，離開上海。回首過去世事無常，今日重逢又是另一層感受。（5）
入夜之前迫不急待趕赴碼頭，渡江前往外灘，藍天中已見月光。站立船舷飽覽兩岸風光，點點燈火像撒在玉盤中的珍珠燦爛奪目。見眼前景物百感叢生，有一股久客傷老之情。仿賀知章《回鄉偶書二首》，也作了一首詩，抒發內心的感受：離別原鄉歲月多，春風不改舊時波。年年江水向東流，人生世代笑談中。不知乘月幾人歸，落日搖情滿江紅。外灘燈火欲黃昏，渡頭隔江眺群樓。
來到了外灘，下了船順著蜿蜒的長堤向北行，綠地葱翠、和風吹拂、人群熙攘。對街風格迥異的古樓建築，鱗次櫛比，在絢麗多彩的霓虹燈光照射下，托映出它的蒼勁之美。
時光倒退到1946年，父母親牽著我的手，在外灘19號與南京東路交會處，橫越馬路。如今，孩子卻攙扶著我和媽媽，穿過同一條路同一個街口。順著南京東路西行五分鐘，到了和平飯店。(6)
和平飯店建於1906年(清光緒32年)，是一座頗具盛名的歷史建築。分南北兩樓，是富賈、政要、名流、觀光客長久以來聚會用餐觀景的好去處。它走過百年繁華，如今仍然貴氣十足。抗戰勝後，父親年甫三十，已官拜少校，翩翩風采，豪邁倜儻，曾攜眷用餐於此。今日我與內子、小兒同樣在此用餐，緬懷追思之情，油然而生。
孩子事前在網上訂妥餐廳座位，登樓坐定，雖不見40年代菲律賓藝人的樂隊演奏，卻聽到陣陣傳來的爵士音樂。小兒將68年的時空連結在一起，選擇和平飯店，作為我們來上海首次晚餐的地方，用意至深。
餐後至頂樓花園參觀，視野遼闊，上海全城璀燦奪目的美麗夜景，盡收眼底。
離去時，見底樓長廊兩側，陳列着這座建築鏡頭下的歴史光華，配以詳盡的中英文解說，記録下它百年來，變遷中的故事。
走出飯店西行至步行街，老字號茂昌眼鏡、老鳳祥銀樓、永安公司均歷歴在目。街兩旁花壇、藝雕、商店、攤販、賣藝人一應俱全。慢步其間沒有車輛的打擾，可以盡情享受燈光夜景、精緻美食、隨興購物的樂趣。是一種情趣與文化的體驗，在這裡不見紙醉金迷，卻見青春活力。
在返回浦東的渡輪上，見浦江彩舫穿梭，兩岸燈火如晝。海關大樓的鐘聲，節奏優美，和諧悅耳。來上海頭一天，我們享受了一個《夜空璀燦星如雨，繽紛絢麗九重天。世間煩囂皆可拋，此夜陶醉未入眠。》的夜晚。(7)
次日（2014年10月27日，星期一）上午九時，福特汽車亞太總部特約房屋仲介，一位30餘歲的徐姓年輕人，由一名王姓司機陪同，駕駛一輛雪佛蘭SUV來到酒店，開始一連五天的覓居租房行動。
徐先生大學學歴文質彬彬，英語說得不錯，見識很廣，從事房屋仲介已有12年，外商、外僑、領館官員是他服務的對象。司機王師傅，年近五十，浙江人，和氣待人，駕駛平穩純熟。
在酒店大廳，徐先生給我們作了五天行程的簡報，按小兒擬好的項目，包括高樓住宅、酒店公寓、花園康斗、觀景獨屋。就近先從文華東方酒店開始，逐一參訪。
在住房部經理邱女士的接待下，至各樓層瀏覽參觀。小兒邊看邊問，勤作筆記，在自繪自製的表格上，勾圈記號，節省了不少時間，而且實景攝影備查。隨後至浦東香格里拉、瑪麗奧堤兩酒店參訪，下午四時結束首日行程。
我有一套西裝，需要改小，小兒的新同事給了一個地址，是一座位於南浦大橋附近的服飾商場大樓，從選樣、購料、量身、製作，一條龍作業。各樓層近兩百家店面，任君挑選，料美精工價錢公道。
我們選擇搭乘地鐵前往，步行至陸家嘴車站上車，來一次上海地鐵經驗。與紐約、洛杉磯、台北的㨗運做一比較。
陸家嘴站與南浦大橋站皆是大站，硬體設備新穎，超越紐約、洛杉磯，與台北不分上下。遺憾的是，內急難以入廁，清潔度不如台北。殘障通道不易找尋，搭乘升降機要事前申請。上下車秩序更是凌亂，爭先恐後碰撞難免，未聽任何歉意。老弱婦孺座位形同虛設，多半被年輕人霸佔。車廂內有一則警語廣告《守秩序，講文明，老外也不例外。》很經典，頗有創意，讓人莞爾。
按址來到修改西裝的朱師傅處，助理以咖啡招待。量身僅五分鐘完成，三天後取件，保證合身。
朱師傅的爺爺，1949年與同儕前往香港謀生，手藝傳給其父。三十年後改革開放，袓國各項建設蒸蒸日上，上海飛速倔起。老爺爺返郷心切，1998年舉家回鄉。朱師傅傳承祖業，接續經營，闖出名號。朱家經歷，引證了上海西裝師傅的一段遷徙史。
入夜之後回到陸家嘴，摩天大樓接星連月，燈光絢麗迷離如幻，與十里洋場的老上海落差很大。陸家嘴原是荒涼一片，老一輩的上海人常說《寜要浦西一張床，不要浦東一間房。》如今親眼目睹這塊浦江東岸新城，在歐美文化時代巨變衝擊之下，建設之快速，力道之猛烈，嘆為觀止。(8）
第三天(10月28日，星期二)，上午九時三十分，徐先生來到酒店大廳，繼續行程。先到濱江花園公寓，再赴浦西高樓住宅，隨後至上海市出入境檢疫局附設醫院，完成外商外僑長期居留體檢。
車經愚園路，小兒眼明語快，驚呼《右前方，右前方，百樂門舞廳。》，我和妻的目光立刻搜索到了。這座1930年代興建的舞廳，樓高五層，夾在新型的高樓之中，顯得落寞寒楚，流盡鉛華。
車沒有停，卻沉緬在父母口述中，四十年代老上海時的百樂門情景。白先勇筆下的金大班，也浮現腦際。彷彿看到聽到周璇、阮玲玉、白光的身影歌聲，催華著名媛仕紳《蓬恰恰，蓬恰恰》的舞夜風情。
幸得上海市府，保護古蹟盡心盡力，將走過無數悲歡滄桑的百樂門舞廳，完整地保存下來，延續了昔日風華。
數分鐘後，車行至愚園東路，見梧桐夾道迎風起舞，在秋雨的襯托下，顯得蕭條瑟縮。也許是我們的念舊情懷，張先生指着前方一幢七層樓的義大利建築。說道：那是上海另一處歴史建築常德公寓，老名字叫愛林登公寓。
提到愛林登公寓，我立刻想到張愛玲，我們請司機王師傅將車開近，停留片刻。一個刻着《張愛玲故居》的牌子嵌在牆上，小字是張愛玲的事蹟。這是一次意外的收穫，這位中國近代文學史上的奇葩一生坎坷、孤寂、精彩、傳奇。
此情此景正如晏殊所寫《金風細細，葉葉梧桐墜》，《長恨離亭，涙滴春衫酒易醒。梧桐昨夜西風急，淡月朧明。》，《高樓月盡欲黃昏，梧桐葉上蕭蕭雨。》。(9）
下午三時，完成了當日的覓屋行程，徐先生建議去田子坊，體驗一次老上海弄堂的浪漫，兼具新時代創意的文化。我在泰康路口下車，徐先生跟司機回了公司，我們順著人潮走到210弄，進入田子坊。
田子坊原是一處路邊市集，1998年實施都耕計劃，注入新的文化元素，增添了它的光彩容貌。外嵌石塊的《石庫門》建築周邊，賦予了新的生命。老上海的風情，依舊存在於巷弄之間。田子坊社區多元藝文化的結果，驅使畫廊、茶館、露天咖啡館、藝品店、異國風情的美食店、文創工作坊、骨董店，如雨後春筍般出現。讓市民的生活有了活力，更吸引了許多外商外僑及觀光客的到訪。
我們享受了一個愉快愜意的午後時光，上海正奔馳在創意文化的競程上，田子坊是一個縮影。
在田子坊的巷子裡，我們在一間義大利餐廳，點了一些義式料理，兩份麵餃、一份扁豆沙拉、兩杯咖啡。
隨後再度去了南京東路步行街逛夜市，信步過了西藏中路，依次是新世界城、金門大酒店、永新廣場，豁然看見前面的國際飯店。
多年前，先父曾提起這座號稱為《上海之巔》的高樓建築。那是民國22年的往事，父親考入陸軍通信兵團教導大隊不久。有一天是個假日，父親同數名同學從鎮江來到上海，見證了這幢以美國摩天大樓為藍本，線條垂墜深入雲霄的大樓，開幕啓用儀式。有如今日的浦東東方明珠廣播電視塔，當時的國際飯店是上海的新地標。
這座大樓已列入上海市優久歴史建築保護單位，它也是百樂門舞廳、大光明電影院、沐恩堂等建築物，匈牙利建築師鄔達克的成名作品。已故當代中國旅美建築大師貝聿銘，正因為這座飯店的建成，激發了他對建築的熱愛。
巧合的是，我與妻結婚的地點也在國際飯店，不過不在上海，是在台北。(10）
第四天(10月29日，星期三），覓屋行程安排在下午。仲介公司仍然派車到酒店，接我們去浦西遊覽上海市區。路經東橫濱路、多倫路、長樂路、淮海路、新天地等處。我們選擇在多倫路下車，在夏衍、茅盾、魯迅的故居稍事停留。近距離接觸幾位中國近代大文豪的住所。見景思人，也想到他們的作品。
高中時曾讀魯迅的《狂人日記》和《阿Q正傳》，對中國社會病態和人性弱點，描述深入頗具諷刺。進入老年再讀《阿Q正傳》，覺得魯迅有欠忠厚。
上午十一時左右，到達頗富盛名的城隍廟。這座建立於明朝成祖永樂年間的寺廟，迄今已有六百年歷史，臨近上海繁華的豫園商城。城隍廟由霍光殿、財神殿、元辰殿、慈航殿、娘娘殿、城隍殿六個殿堂組成。
我們漫遊在廟區商場內，各式各樣風味小吃、酒釀湯圓、五香豆、八珍湯、小籠包應有盡有。絲綢店、古玩店、龍鳳書法、捏麵人、剪紙店、拉洋片、滬劇雜耍等等，看得目不暇給。
這裡的南翔饅頭店聞名中外，小籠包為其代表。中午就在南翔饅頭店排隊進餐，品嚐到南翔小籠的美味，皮薄、饀大、味鮮、汁多、形美，令人垂涎欲滴，南翔小籠包已是國家級《非物質文化遺產》。
驚喜的是，遇到了久違六十八年的中國民間娛樂《拉洋片》，江南人稱它為《西洋景》。小兒很好奇，從未看過這種新鮮玩意兒，我向他解說了一番。
我們坐在一張長木板凳上，面對一個大木箱，前方開了四個洞，我們一人佔據一個往箱內看。洞口安裝了放大鏡，箱內光線明亮，箱壁有十餘張彩色畫，有山水有人物。操作人一張一張換，一邊解說一邊唱着唱詞。當天的內容是西遊記，我記不住唱詞是怎麼講的了。反而想起我小時候，1947年冬天，在瀋陽故宮城外的市集中，那位拉片人的唱詞：嗨，請往裏面瞧，請往裏面看。深冬臘月好冷的天，前山大雪三尺多，後山深雪把人埋。冷得老虎鑽進洞，冷得樵夫下了山。
還一邊唱著一邊拉著鑼鼓點兒，聲音清脆悅耳《嗤不隆咚嗆，嗤不隆咚嗆，嗤不隆咚，嗆嗆》。(11)
我們順着一股香味，來到一家小吃店前。路邊的一張大桌子上，擺着剛剛加工好的五香蠶豆，冒着熱騰騰的香氣，佇足購買的人還不少，看上去好似母親所說的鎮江香豆。
母親小時候由山東日照遷居鎮江，那個年代五香豆子是兒童最喜歡的零食，母親也不例外。她沒忘小販吳語的叫賣聲《五香豆子呱呱叫，又香又脆這裡找。》。
我興致盎然，向販賣大媽照樣叫唱一遍。她嫣然一笑，說道：對對對，當年我的爺爺就是用這種聲調叫賣。
人手一包五香蠶豆，三人行邊走邊嚼，又香又脆口齒留香。能夠嚐到母親兒時喜愛的零食，好幸福。
下午一時，徐先生和王師傅來到老上海飯店前，接我們上車，去參訪浦西瑪麗奧堤酒店及兩棟大樓住宅。下午四時結束行程返回浦東酒店，稍後小兒參加福特汽車亞太總部的一項活動，我和妻則在酒店附近的濱江步道散步，欣賞黃昏時刻的黃浦江景。
在平坦的石板路上，享受着徐來的清風，樹木婆娑起舞，江面上的漣漪和天邊的晚霞相互鬥艷，彷彿在一幅圖畫裏。信步漫行竟忘了時間，夜幕已經降臨。
我情不自禁的唱出一首五十年前，白光的老歌《秋夜》：我愛夜，我愛夜，更愛皓月高掛的秋夜。幾株不知名的樹，已脫下了黃葉。
妻也附和著唱，感覺生命多精采，活得好愉快。(12)
第五天(10月30日，星期四），這天看完最後兩處酒店住房後已是中午時分，徐先生及司機返回公司。下午是自由行，我們選擇去了《上海城市規劃展示館》。依序登入每個樓層，恍如上了一堂歴史課，皆是驚人的視覺饗宴。
清道光22年(1842年），中英簽訂不平等的南京條約，開放廣州、福州、廈門、寧波、上海等五個港口通商，允許英人貿易、居住、設領事事務局，迄今(2019年）已有177年。
世界上還沒有任何一個都市像上海一樣從事大規模有計劃的建設，世事變易滄海桑田，上海由一個小漁村演變成今日具有萬國風采的國際大都會，也不過短短兩百年。
慶幸我們在這個大都市裡，除了面對陌生的新建築外，還能看見夕陽斜照裏的弄堂。具有歴史價值的建築物，都保存下來。尤其是鏡頭下的原址新舊對比照片，讓我這個有著上海情結，久別重逢的遊子，沉緬於一股懐舊的思緒之中，追回了日漸模糊的記憶。
回程我們搭乘地鐵在陸家嘴站下車，逛街至正大商場用餐。在地下樓有着異國風味的美食，上海當地的小吃，台灣的蚵仔煎、燒肉粽、魯肉飯等等，應有盡有，用餐環境媲美台北101大樓地下層飲食檔。
回到酒店後，將四天來各處覓屋收集到的資料、記録下來的筆記、拍攝到的照片，逐一比較討論。最後選擇了浦東香格里拉大酒店，作為小兒Anderson未來三年的住所。電話通知了徐先生，相約明日上午赴香格里拉。（13）
第六天（10月31日，星期五），上午九時由徐先生陪同，到達浦東香格里拉大酒店，再度由一位來自巴黎的客房經理Colette女士引導，進入我們屬意的兩處房間。經過一番比較，選擇23樓一間全單位觀景房。從客廳的落地窗向外看，對岸外灘及黃浦江美景盡收眼底，東方明珠廣播電視塔也在視線之內，臥房浴室裝璜考究寬敞舒適。距離上班地點，車程僅十分鐘。Colette女士對我們的決定，表示熱烈歡迎，會提供最佳的服務，有在家的感覺。
完成簽約手續後，司機送我們到達世界博覽會場址，在中華藝術宮下車。這座具有中華文化特質的建築物，博覽會結束後未被拆除，被永久保存下來，已成上海世界博覽會標誌性建築。
2010年5月1日，第41屆世界博覽會在上海開幕，展期至同年10月31日。這是首屆萬國博覽會(世博會前身）於1851年(清咸豐元年)，在英國倫敦海德公園舉行以來，159年後首次由中國主辦。
上海世界博覽會以《城市，讓生活更美好》為訴求，繼北京奧運會後，又一次提振了中國的國際地位。我在電視開幕直播及新聞報導中，驚艷盛況，作了112字七言一首，以茲紀念。
詩曰：百年期盼世博會，夢成上海浦江圓。五洲賀客齊歡慶，世人目光聚焦點。傲人建築展實力，盛世美景在眼前。銀花飛舞浦江夜，螢空月圓耀彩顏。繽紛絢麗九重天，天上一線連人間。梁祝黃浦水上起，仙樂飄飄夜空旋。相隔一百五九年，盛況空前創紀元。國人豪情盡可拋，此夜上海無人眠。（14）
遊歷過世博會現存的展覽館後，返回浦東，在陸家嘴世紀大道逛街，進入IFC國際金融中心大樓。這是一座在世博會期間，對外開始營業的購物中心大樓，具有質感的國際化時尚商場，地上四層，地下兩層，中庭全面挑空，牆面的美術雕花及裝飾相當吸睛。世界馳名的精品店，在這裡幾乎都有代理，是一個旅遊兼具購物的好去處。
第七天（11月1日，星期六），上午先看望母親的胞妹，我的二姨及其家人。1949年我與她在青島離別，65年來未曾見面。下午再訪三位堂弟、一位堂妹及我的三嬸。由於數年來，常在越洋電話中互通信息，彼此熟悉對方的聲音，因此見面時不覺陌生。
我們互相傾聽，對方訴說著生死離散的故事。兩岸分治的大時代悲劇，讓兩岸兩代人都有其隱忍不語的傷痛。這一次見面，沒有悲情，只有心存感激。上蒼賜給我們如此美好的機緣，願上天賜福每一個家庭。
2014年11月2日，星期日，結束了原鄉之旅上海行。下午一時赴虹橋機場，搭機飛往台北。小兒在上海還有兩天的會議行程，11月5日飛回底特律，準備履新事宜。（15，本篇完）
第2篇：義大利
感恩之旅
2014年10月，小兒Anderson服務的福特汽車公司，外派他到上海工作。我與妻趁著他事前到上海尋覓住所之便，去了一趟《原鄉之旅上海行》。這是我1949年離開上海65年之後，重逢上海。
小兒新職生效日是12月8日星期一，在感恩節前的一個星期六，由底特律回到洛杉磯的家。這也是公司刻意的安排，在就任前能放鬆一下，渡一個感恩節長假，直到上任。
為了充分利用這個假期，他和哥哥Anthony擬好了一個前往義大利旅遊的行程。從預定機票、旅館、高鐵車票，選擇古蹟景點，了解歴史文化等等等等，作成洋洋灑灑12頁的行程書表，稱之為《義大利感恩之旅》。
【11月23日
星期日】
這天是個大晴天，全家人五點鐘起床。上午11時30分，撘乘聯合航空班機由洛杉磯經舊金山，於次日當地時間上午9時10分，到達德國法蘭克福FRA機場。舊金山至法蘭克福，飛行時間為9小時45分鐘，此時洛杉磯時間已是24日零時十分。(1)
【11月24日
星期一】
在法蘭克福機場停留約兩個半小時，近中午時分，換搭Lufthansa德航班機，飛往羅馬FCO，扺達已是下午二時。比較FRA及FCO兩處機場，羅馬達文西機場，顯得陳舊許多。
出了機場向右步行約三分鐘，就是出租車及公車總站。我們選擇搭乘Terra ision旅遊公車前往市區，每人車資5歐元，如果乘坐Taxi，不計人數，一趟80歐元。公車每小時一班，舒適平穩，行駛約一小時，到達羅馬市中心的中央車站。
下了車步行約十分鐘，到達下榻的Hotel Rex旅店。這間建於1904年的旅館，二十年代的電梯，連結四個樓層，在一條安靜的巷道中，交通十分方便。提供精緻美味的早餐，是吸引顧客留宿的誘因。
稍事休息後，趕在落日之前，撘乘地鐵到達最近的景點許願泉，又稱少女泉。
『許願泉』
初次看見許願泉，是在上世紀五十年代，奧黛麗赫本主演的電影《羅馬假期》的大螢幕上。這天親覩這座中世紀歐洲的精緻建築，讓人驚艷讚歎。我們的羅馬假期，就從這裡開始。每人投入泉內一枚五角歐元硬幤，盼望再有一次羅馬假期，就是還願之時。
許願泉是一座巴洛克風格的噴泉，高二十五點九米，寬十九點八米。1629年之前稱《特萊維噴泉》，1730年教宗克勉十二世，任命尼古拉莎維重新設計，1732年施工，歷時三十年，於1762年完成。以希臘神話故事為主軸，噴泉後側是波利宮。科林斯大柱式的牆壁中央，是駕駛飛馬戰車的海神。左右兩側是豐裕與健康兩位女神，海神前方是海洋的信使特里同，外觀類似凱旋門。
面對許願泉，右側小巷是一條購物飲食步行街。我們在一家有80餘年歷史，名為Al picchio的小餐館，享用了一餐道地的義大利披薩及麵食。餐後興致不減，朝北步行至不遠處的景點「西班牙階梯」。(2）
『西班牙階梯』
西班牙階梯是一座戶外階梯，與西班牙廣場相聯，有135级石階，頂端有一座天主聖三教堂，莊嚴地矗立雲宵。早在1580年代，就有建築草圖的檔案。直到十八世紀初葉，法國波旁王朝，使用了一名外交官的遺產，資助梵蒂岡興建，費時三年，於1725年建成。
面對階梯是西班牙駐義大利大使舘，右前方的黃白色建築，曾是英國詩人濟慈的住所。也是經典電影羅馬假期、羅馬之春、圍城的拍攝地點。
我們到達時天色已暗，但觀光客人潮不減。我們坐在石階上，享受這深秋時節羅馬迷人的夜晚。逗留了半個小時，決定乘興夜遊梵蒂岡，趕搭地鐵去聖彼得廣場。
『梵蒂岡』
梵蒂岡也稱教廷，位於羅馬西北，台伯河西岸，梵蒂岡山上，是全球天主教的精神堡壘和政治中心。面積僅零點五平方公里，是全世界最小的國家。由高大的石牆圍繞，主建築是聖彼得大教堂。面對大教堂的右方，是梵蒂岡宮，是教宗居住和閣員辦公的地方。宮中還有博物館、圖書館、美術館及著名的西斯汀禮拜堂，堂內的牆壁和天花板上，是藝術大師米開朗基羅所繪，聞名於世的壁畫。
聖彼得大教堂的正前方，是聖彼得廣場，可容納六萬人。面向大教堂的左方是一座聖彼得青銅雕像，耶穌宗徒手持掌管天國審判生死的《天國之鑰》。右方則是另一宗徒，手持利劍，守護耶穌基督教義和救世博愛精神的聖保羅雕像。
對於一位天主教信徒而言，能圓一生中最大的朝聖夢想，站在聖彼得大教堂前的廣場上，心情是激動的，血液是沸騰的。
寧靜的夜晚在柔和的燈光下，襯托出聖堂的金碧輝煌，莊嚴肅穆。全家人感恩之心，油然而生。
雖然聖堂開放時間已過，我們卻在廣場上漫步徘徊直到夜深。晚安，梵蒂岡，明天見。(3）
【11月25日
星期二】
清晨六時起床，早餐後步行至中央車站，撘乘地鐵到羅馬競技場。車站內有超級市場，購買了四份火腿鷄塊三明治、兩罐特大號礦泉水及一些零嘴，分裝兩個背包，輪流背負，這是今日的午餐。
『羅馬競技場』
羅馬競技場是羅馬的地標建築，也稱弗萊文競技場，也叫圓形大劇場。建於西元前80年(西漢昭帝元鳳元年），在羅馬帝國時期，是劍奴的真劍比賽及人獸搏鬥場地。橢圓形石塊建築，佔地兩萬平方米，長軸188米，短軸156米，牆高57米，可容納近九萬人，是古羅馬時代建築史上的一項偉大貢獻，建成後迄今2100年，仍可看見它的宏偉遺蹟。
走進這座競技場內，想像兩千多年來，它經歴風雨摧殘，仍然屹立不搖，讓人驚嘆。不計其數的鬥士們，在殘酷的格鬥中流淌鮮血，成了慘死的冤魂，不禁感歎不已。在此停留了兩個小時後，順道遊覽了附近的君士坦丁大帝凱旋門及古羅馬市集廢墟。
近中午時分，我們在一處石階上席地而坐，與許多觀光客一樣，享用自備的午餐，之後再奔梵蒂岡，參觀梵蒂岡博物館。(4）
『梵蒂岡博物館』
出了地鐵站向右行，一條筆直的大街直通梵蒂岡。這個世界上面積最小的國家，大部份由28英尺高的石牆，與義大利國界分隔。順著北牆的步行道向西走約十分鐘，到達梵蒂岡博物館入口處。
這座博物館世界馳名，珍藏著歷代教宗收集的文物，從古埃及、古希臘、古羅馬到文藝復興各年代的藝術珍品，包括石雕、銅雕、器具、油畫、壁畫等等，每一件都是希世珍寶。24個景點如要一一瀏覽，至少需要一整天時間，不見得能深入了解，也僅是走馬看花而已。
『西斯汀教堂』
到了梵蒂岡，不能不參觀梵蒂岡博物館，進了梵蒂岡博物館，更不能不到西斯汀教堂。這座梵蒂岡內的小教堂，是教廷中樞，對外不開放禮拜，而是教宗與樞機團會議的場所，更是教宗亡故或去職，遴選新教宗的聖堂。
我們走進西斯汀教堂，立即感受到它的莊嚴肅穆，無論是穹頂、天花板、側壁，以及343幅描繪聖經舊約中人物故事的壁畫，每一個角落都是生機盎然，澎湃絢麗。這些壁畫可說是世界文明史上的顚峯極品，這是文藝復興時代藝術三傑之一的米開朗基羅(1475-1564）的獨自創作。眼前的情景，讓我們心情激動不已。
西斯汀教堂1445年興建，1481年(明憲宗成化17年）完工。到了1508年，當時的教宗朱利亞斯總覺得堂內廣闊空洞，遂令當年已頗富盛名的雕塑家米開朗基羅，用繪畫來裝飾天花板。最初他以非專長而拒絕，但教宗深信他會做得很好，祇好接下這項工作。未料悟性很高的米開朗基羅，所畫出的畫，日後卻成了世界藝術的瑋寶。
堂內的畫作分穹頂畫、壁畫和祭壇畫三部份。《創世紀》是一幅超大型天頂畫，是米開朗基羅引用聖經內容，大膽引進裸體作畫。其中局部三幅《上帝創造日夜》、《上帝創造亞當》、《亞當夏娃被逐出伊甸園》，充分體現了米開郎基羅的人文思想，透過繪畫發出對天主的讚歌。
1535年，他已六十歲，還被教皇逼著去畫《最後的審判》，用了六年時間，在極端惡劣的作畫環境下完成。他幾乎變成了跛子、瞎子。這幅題材出自聖經的巨繪，宣揚人死後，善者升天堂，惡者入地獄的因果報應關係。
天主喜愛他，給了他人間九十年的生命，在當時已是世間人瑞。那年，1564年，英國大文豪莎士比亞誕生。（5）
【11月26日星期三】
晨七時，在餐廳望著窗外下著細雨的街景，行人已熙熙攘攘。義大利是典型的地中海型氣候，冬季多雨，空氣清新略帶濕氣。細微的風吹聲，耳邊拂過，有輕爽飄逸的感覺。未來幾天的旅遊，可能會出現這種天氣。
向櫃檯借了兩把雨傘，一家人步行至中央車站，搭乘地鐵第三度前往梵蒂岡。
梵蒂岡地鐵站與一座大型的購物商場相連，各種各樣的商品應有盡有。我們添購了兩把折曡傘，於是人手一把，撐著傘漫步在雨中，走向聖彼得廣場，參加每周三上午，教宗方濟各與民眾有約的活動。
經過安檢，我們進入聖彼得廣場。由於事前已在網上登記，因此被安排在前區位置。九時許，估計廣場已湧入上萬人。從遊客手持的國旗中，可以看出來自何方，其中以拉丁美洲來的觀光客最多。欣慰的是，在大型螢幕上，看到了一面飄揚中的中華民國國旗和一面五星紅旗。
天空下著細雨，廣場內五顏六色的各式雨傘，更增添了歡悅熱閙的氣氛。
九時三十分，教宗方濟各，身著白色聖袍，戴白色聖冠，繫褐色聖珠，搭乘專用座車，在梵蒂岡電視台攝影車的前導下，從聖彼得教堂右側，順着車道揮手走進群眾，歡呼聲此起彼落不絕於耳，一路上不時停下來親吻孩童。
一群來自南美洲的信眾們，直呼教宗的俗名「佛朗西斯戈（Francisco)」，「佛朗西斯戈(Francisco)」。齊向這位來自阿根廷的鄉長，表達最真摰的情誼。
說也神奇，就在教宗出現的那一刻，居然雨停了。我是教友，深信這是天主的奧蹟。
教宗行約20分鐘，由廣場左側，到達聖彼得教堂正前方，面對群眾搭建的講檯上。先由司儀引言，再由教宗致祝願詞。此時正好是上午十點鐘，天主的奧蹟再度出現。天空烏雲已散，陽光普照整個廣場，群眾又一次的歡呼。我不知道如此場景，是否每次都會出現，但這一次的《與教宗有約》，在場的人都見證了這個事實。
教宗先後以英語及義大利語致詞，祝願世界和平，遠離戰爭、窮困、饑餓。讓聖神的光輝，照亮每一個家庭，幸福的真光，充滿信者的身心。我們感受到一股強烈的慈愛，如臨和風心存感恩，這是此次朝聖之旅的最大收穫。
瞻禮聖彼得大教堂，是行程重點，距離下午一時開放的時間，還有兩個小時。我們各撐一把雨傘，漫步在廣場正前方的使館大道（Via Della Conciliazione)，在一幢大廈的屋頂上，看見一面青天白日滿地紅國旗，在風雨中飄揚。這是中華民國在歐洲唯一的邦交國，駐教廷大使館館址。我們在館前，留住那一刻的攝影。虔誠禱告，願聖神庇佑這個苦難的國家。(6）
『聖天使城堡』
順著使館大道繼續往前走，步行約十分鐘，來到聖天使城堡（Castel sant Angelo)。這座興建於公元123年至139年間羅馬帝國哈德良王朝時的建築物，曾經作為阻止西哥德人及東哥德人入侵的要塞，現在闢為博物館，對外開放。
正對城堡入口，有一座跨越台伯河，羅馬最華麗的石拱橋（Ponte vittorio emanuele)，橋上有12尊雕工精湛的天使雕像，配以古意盎然的路燈，使人驚艷。
下午一時前，我們返回聖彼得廣場。驚見排隊入聖彼得大教堂禮拜的群眾，隊伍蜿蜒至少有三百公尺，我們加快腳步趕去排隊。沒等多久，回頭一看隊伍又是一長溜。
『聖彼得大教堂』
隊伍在細雨中緩緩前進，每個人都充滿喜悅，耐心等待。90分鐘後，輪到我們進堂。按照指定路線，有秩序地往前移動。堂內莊嚴肅穆，看到的是接耳細語，聽到的是步履輕聲。我們參考手中的資料，仔細瀏覽，心存感恩。長久以來夢想見到的聖殿，就在眼前。
聖彼得大教堂又稱聖伯多祿大教堂，或稱梵蒂岡大殿。最早的大殿建於公元316年（西晉愍帝建興4年），歷經三十年建成。由君士坦丁大帝資助，為拉丁十字形狀的巴西利卡式建築。具有耶穌基督為萬民承罪，被釘死在十字架上的象徵意義。(7）
經過1250年後的公元1503年，教宗猶利二世，因其陳舊不堪決定重建。1506年4月18日動工，保持原有式樣外，添加文藝復興時期建築元素，歷時120年，於1626年（明熹宗天啓六年)11月18日，舉行祝聖大典正式啓用，即今日世界最大的教堂聖彼得大殿。佔地兩萬三千平方米，大殿中央有直徑42米的穹窿，頂高138米。殿內飾以華麗的文藝復興盛期的壁畫及雕刻，米開朗基羅、拉斐爾(1483-1520）等大師均在此堂留下了舉世聞名永垂不朽的傑作，充分體現了文藝復興和巴洛克藝術的精髓。
聖堂中央祭壇，正好設在地下層聖徒彼得墳墓之上，可以說這座大教堂是建築在聖彼得殉教的地方。從1870年(清同治九年）以來，就是教宗就職，包括每年聖誕午夜彌撒，以及重大禮拜的地方。
祭壇右側有一尊米開朗基羅的石雕《聖母哀子像》，後方牆壁豎立起一座巨型石刻聖十字架。散發出聖母慈愛的光輝，從至高的天廷降下。
我們在《聖母哀子像》前，凝視著聖母和耶穌。像一個離家出走、受苦、挨餓，遇到各種磨折的孩子，回到母親懷抱一様，內心激動久久不能平復。我帶領家人，唸了一串玫瑰經，祈求聖母及耶穌降福庇佑。
離開聖堂已是下午四時，途經民眾廣場，再次一遊西班牙階梯。晚間在中央車站附近逛街，訂購赴那坡里高鐡車票，明天遊歴Capri島。(8）
【11月27日星期四】
這天是11月的第四個星期四，在美國是感恩節。起床後讀早課經文，感謝吾主耶穌，庇佑我一夜平善，賜我今日生命，浩大恩德。
早餐後赴中央車站，搭乘8時14分高鐵南下，前往義大利第三大城，也是第一大港的那坡里（Napoli)，又稱那不勒斯（Naples)。
義大利除了有密集的公路網外，高速鐡路縱橫全國各大城市，公營民營兼而有之，車行平穩舒適，快㨗便利。羅馬至那坡里，240公里，車行約兩個半小時。行經西部平疇綠野，時而看見遠方的亞平寧山脈，鐵道兩旁近處的葡萄田、橄欖地、檸檬叢，盡收眼底。田間的埂渠，蜿蜒的車道，設計得井然有序。樹林小河旁的農舍，祥和寧靜，具有遺世絕俗獨立入禪的感覺。
『卡浦麗島』
上午10時40分，列車分秒不差，準時停靠月台。那不勒斯車站設計與羅馬相仿，有寬闊的候車大廳，至少有一萬人的容客量，廳內設施新穎，商店林立，購物方便，小飯館隨處可見。
出了車站左行不到兩分鐘，就是排班出租車招呼站。一家人上了車，直奔那坡里渡輪碼頭。
計程車男性駕駛員，是一位年約二十五、六歲的年輕人，略懂英語，除了義大利母語外，也可以用西班牙語溝通。此君一路滔滔不絕，抱怨義大利的失業率，已高過西班牙和希臘，窮人佔全國半數。又說那不勒斯又老又窮，治安也差，工人與資本主抗爭不斷，每個星期都有大小不等的示威活動，警察疲於奔命。小偷多了，當街搶劫屢見不鮮。好像給我們作了一次國情簡報，義大利人的率真，可見一斑。
二十分鐘的車程，因示威交通受阻。多出一倍時間繞道而行，到達碼頭下車，我們照錶付款，也辛苦這位司機了，祝他生意興隆。
計程車路經一貧民窟，見住家牆壁皆是塗鴉作品，色彩鮮豔，文字詼諧，諷刺意味濃厚，展現獷野抽象特色，反映窮人對現實環境的不滿，應是街頭藝人所為。想不到巧遇一次示威活動，計程車繞路而行，讓我們得到一項意外的收穫。(9）
開往卡浦麗島(Capri last)的渡輪，每30分鐘一班，尖峰時刻客滿即開。島位於那波里港南方30海哩，航行約35分鐘。遊客在島北海灣碼頭上岸，臨海大街有藝品店、公車站、小旅館。計程車司機遊走於旅客之間，招攬生意。商店內有旅遊指南，免費提供。
卡浦麗島面積十六點七平方公里，島上有一座海拔258公尺的索拉諾山(Solano Mts)，整個島以丘陵地為主體。東有卡浦麗鎮，西有安娜卡浦麗鎮，兩鎮之間有一些小面積的台地。檸檬是島上的特產，檸檬酒、檸檬油、檸檬糖果馳名歐洲。
一條單線雙向公路，蜿蜒曲折連貫全島，橘黃色公車滿載時不超過20人，包括站立者。在狹窄的路面上，兩輛公車相會，駕駛操控沉穏，技術超羣，雙方車速如常，錯車距離不過半呎，一邊是山崖，一邊是深淵，讓人即驚嘆又敬佩。
我們選擇有新鮮感的索道巴士上山，到卡浦麗小鎮。車站就在臨海大街上，隨著巴士逐漸爬升，視野越來越廣。俯瞰碧藍色的海灣，遊船、小艇穿梭不停。半山中的別墅豪宅，盡在眼底。
小鎮依山勢而建，海拔百餘公尺，用適合海島氣候的石雕建築，既華麗又古樸更實用。彎彎曲曲坡度陡斜，偶有階梯，寛不足三公尺的幽徑巷弄，兩旁時鮮爭艷羅列。藝品店、珠寶首飾店、精品店分設巷道兩旁，售價實在，是旅客佇足吸睛焦點。（10)
小鎮逗留了一小時，乘坐小巴前往島西安娜卡浦麗鎮。
此地是義大利着名的檸檬産地，有一系列的檸檬加工產品，供銷全國及外銷歐洲。鎮內有檸檬博物館、酒廠、糖果餅乾廠，以及設備新穎的小旅館。超級市場、餐館、銀行、郵局一應俱全。住家四周家家戶戶種滿四季花卉，綠樹成蔭環境清幽，讓人留連忘返。
搭乘一人一車的單人坐䌫上山，對我們而言是一種新的旅遊體驗。纜車車站就在小旅館右側不遠處。登上海拔258公尺的索拉諾山，需要20分鐘。單人纜車很像有扶手靠背的鞦韆，有遮陽篷設備。15度的上升坡度，距離地面約10至15公尺，車行平穏安全舒適。車距約五公尺，前後車可以對話，至少有百輛車徐徐在空中爬升，飄逸自得，享盡秀、奇、美三者皆俱的山景海景。行進中氣象萬千，時而陽光普照，霎時雲煙嫋嫋，有如置身於安徽黃山之中。
索拉諾山，峯頂峻秀，翠嵐映照，白雲悠悠。有一雲仙花園，依山勢而建，立於山巔之上。古柏、勁松、奇石，似虛似幻隨著雲海移動。山雖不高，卻有仙靈之氣。
回程在小鎮搭小巴下山，碼頭巧遇一台灣旅行團，一團人留宿於次日，作海上環島遊，享受遊船穿越礁石洞窟的驚喜。巨型岩洞經萬年風雨侵蝕，形成各種動物形態，唯妙唯肖。
另有藍洞奇景，係岩洞內的海水，在特殊地形下，經陽光折射，產生藍色彩光。
感恩節我們在卡浦麗島，渡過美好難忘的一天。於晚間9時15分，撘乘高鐡回到羅馬，在車站購買了次日到威尼斯的車票。(11)
【11月28日星期五】
上午8時30分赴羅馬中央車站，在候車大廳逗留約一小時後，登上前往威尼斯的高鐵，9時50分準時開車。
列車順著亞平寧山脈北上，路經佛羅倫斯，進入波河平原。車行3小時50分鐘，到達威尼斯聖塔露西亞站。
坐在舒適平穩的車廂裡，一路遠眺亞平寧山，峰峰相連。大片的葡萄園，在陽光照射下，生機盎然。波河平原的玉米、小麥、甜菜田，規劃得井然有序。鄉村公路、小河、農舍、樹叢、木橋，交織成一幅美麗的田園風景。
遙想五個半世紀前，義大利諸先賢米開朗基羅、達文西、拉斐爾、提香等人，為了拯救被《黑暗時期》中斷了千年的歐洲歷史文化，騎著馬或坐著馬車，來回奔波在這條路上的情景。顛有走進時光隧道，時空錯亂的感覺。（12)
『水都威尼斯』
威尼斯是聞名於世的水上都市，位於義大利東北部，面對亞得里亞海，建築在一處淺水礁湖區的沙洲之上，是威尼西亞省的省會。
義大利先民於15世紀，用了上萬根的木樁，密集式地插入泥沙之中，地基就架設在這些木樁之上。再以磚石建造房屋，是一項人力挑戰自然成功的例子。木樁在水底缺氧的環境下，不易腐朽，至今完好。往後延續這種方法擴建，演變成今日的威尼斯。
城市的設計，像似一條在大海中游動的巨鯨，凸顯出義大利人的智慧。交通主幹是貫穿市中心的大運河，連通150多條水巷，交錯全市。船是唯一的交通工具，各種不同的船隻，穿梭在運河與水巷之中。
具有古典風格的小船《貢多拉Gondola》，是觀光客的喜愛，坐在船上船夫搖槳高歌，穿過石橋，欣賞水巷兩邊的古建築，讓人發思古幽情，其樂無窮。
四百多座不同造型的石橋，連接水巷兩岸的行人道，裝點出威尼斯的詩情畫意。
大運河沿岸，，每隔一段距離，就可看見一些粗大的木樁立於水中，這是栓船的船柱，又是歸航泊岸的標記。
威尼斯的景點不下百處，最馳名的有聖馬可廣場、聖馬可大教堂、學院美術館、嘆息橋以及多處離岸小島，都在行程規劃之中。(13）
『聖馬可廣場』
下午近二時出威尼斯車站，站前廣場面對大運河。鱗次櫛比的水上建築，穿梭河面的各型船隻，藍天碧水景色迤邐，讓人心曠神怡。
我們在細雨中登上水上巴士，往東南方向行駛，到達大運河上的一座石橋（Rialto)里阿朶站。數百公尺外，就可看到橋上人來人往。小兒Anderson拿着地圖，邊走邊看路標，順着河堤，在一處船浦前進入巷弄，彎彎曲曲像似迷宮。在一條寬僅兩公尺的小巷子裡，找到了下榻的旅館Hotel Centauro，是一座有著110年歴史的老旅店。雖然建築有些年歲，但裝璜新穎，設備一應俱全。休息片刻後，趕在落日前，赴聖馬可廣場。
聖馬可廣場是威尼斯最大的一塊平地，長方形的設計類似羅馬的聖彼得廣場。東面就是馳名的聖馬可大教堂。堂正前方，矗立着一幢近300英尺的赤褐色尖頂鐘樓，是威尼斯的著名地標。
廣場隔街就是運河，一面是教堂，其左右前方三邊為連體矮層商店樓房，廣場外牆雕塑精美，富文藝氣息。近處有總督大廈，高聳入雲的花崗石圓柱上，立着一隻振翅雄獅，十分雄偉。
廣場內的各家商店裡，紀念品、小禮品琳瑯滿目，各類玻璃製品，藝精物美，令人目不暇給。成群的鴿子圍繞著旅客打轉，爭食麵包零嘴。我們在廣場內逛商店，在附近遊景點，享受了一個美好難忘的午後時光。本欲進入聖馬可大教堂禮拜，因開放時間已過，未能如願，計劃週日再來。
入夜之後我們穿弄走巷，弄堂內許多商家，凌晨二時之前不打烊，霓虹燈閃爍依舊，遊客遊情不減。
我們佇足在威尼斯Danieli酒店，享受義大利極品咖啡，索價不貲，當然也享受到頂級服務。酒店面對大運河，原為威尼斯富商豪宅，後易主改建為酒店。我們盡情留連在威尼斯的夜晚，凌晨一時才回到旅館。（14）
【11月29日星期六】
今晨六時起床，雖然只睡了五個小時，卻沒有絲毫疲睏，威尼斯在霧色朦朧中甦醒。
早餐後步行至里阿朶碼頭，搭船至高鐵站，繼續行程作佛羅倫斯(Florence)一日遊。
9時25分開車，車行兩小時三十五分鐘，於中午十二時到達。途經義大利養豬業大城博洛尼亞（Bologna)，此地生産的香腸、火腿馳名全球。
印象深刻的是，列車要通過一座行車約半小時的鐵路隧道。這座名為瓦利亞的隧道，建成於2009年，在博洛尼亞城北，全長1萬8千711米，是義大利北部三大城米蘭(Milano)、維隆那(Verona)、威尼斯(Venezia)通往佛羅倫斯及那波里必經的隧道。
『佛羅倫斯』
佛羅倫斯位於威尼斯西南方280英里處，是歐洲文藝復興運動的發源地。義大利先賢伽利略和但丁，與這個城市有着密切的關聯。
伽利略(1564-1642）是義大利的科學家，在天文學、數學和物理學方面的成就，對人類有著巨大的貢獻。他認為宇宙的定律，只能靠著測量的方式得知，對18世紀中業以後的歐洲工業革命，起了決定性的影響。奠定他科學家的思維，卻得自於文藝復興。他對16世紀教會所說的一切科學知識，持懷疑態度，因此鑽研於科學的研究，得到驚人的發現。
當年伽利略是否想到，有一天他的測量工程理論，四百年後被後人引用，在他的故鄉建造了一座先進的鐵路隧道，造福了他的國家。(15）
十三世紀義大利有一位偉大的民族詩人但丁（Dante Alighieri 1265-1321），寫了兩部舉世聞名的文學著作《神曲》和《新生》。
《神曲》是一部很長的詩歌，這是但丁為歌頌他的義大利民族而寫，運筆長達十四年，直到他56歲去世那年才完成。《新生》是寫他跟他最敬愛的女友「比特麗絲」的故事。
一路上我沉思在這兩部作品的情節中，不知不覺列車到達佛羅倫斯站。這裡與羅馬中央車站有着同一款式的設計，大廳寬闊採光明亮。廳內有藝品店、超市、餐廳、精品店、郵局、銀行，一應俱全。
走出車站，視野寬廣，古意盎然。13世紀的教堂建築，石砌的牆壁，厚實的門窗，古樸的街燈，靜靜流淌的阿諾河，與畫家「亨利豪里戴」畫筆下的描繪一模一樣。這座要靠步行遊覽的城市，數百年來一直保有它的古典魅力。
在穿巷走弄間，想像當年富甲天下的佛羅倫斯商人麥地奇（Medici)，用金錢收買了三位教皇，將整個城堡作為他的家。達文西、米開朗基羅都受到他的禮聘，為這座城市留下了不朽的雕塑。
我們信步來到被譽為義大利先賢祠的「聖十字大殿」，它是但丁、米開朗基羅、伽利略、馬基亞維力等人的安息之地。不禁對這幾位不僅是義大利，而且是全世界的偉大藝術巨擘，致以最崇高的敬意。（16）
『聖母百花大教堂』
這座於1296年（元成宗元貞二年)興建的大教堂，中殿為多角圓頂建築，直徑40米，高52米，以大理石塊搭成，氣勢恢宏壯觀耀目，橘紅色的圓頂高聳雲霄，是佛羅倫斯的地標，教堂式樣成為全球教堂建築的樣本。我們在聖母雕像前合十黙禱，祈求世人堪受基督的恩許。
『佛羅倫斯學院
美術館』
到達佛羅倫斯學院美術館已是下午四時，米開朗基羅的石雕像《大衛》，在美術館內成為參觀主軸。當天的觀光客不多，我們可以仔細端詳。
西方學者曾對《大衛》石雕有過闡䆁，說他是聖經中所說的以色列王，沉思是他的特徴。又說他是一位憂鬱的性情中人，更說他是義大利戰馬的化身。
目睹面前的《大衛》，心中激動不已。透過大螢幕的說明，再對照實景，引證了學者們的說法。驚嘆米開朗基羅的刀鑿功力，把《大衛》賦予了生命。從雙眼到眉睫，從額角到鼻梁，整個面部表情，以至整個軀體的張力，都透露出他的憂鬱、不安和深沉。
對於那一雙與常人不成比例的大手，給了一個想像的空間。米開朗基羅刻意如此雕塑，是否要平衡《大衛》心中的不安呢？(17)
『阿諾河上的
維奇奧撟』
義大利中世紀最後一位大思想家，也是文藝復興時期的首位人文主義者但丁，比米開朗基羅早誕生210年。少年時偶遇一位心怡已久的天人「貝雅德麗齊」，但丁一生都為這位天人而活，兩人只見面兩次，兩次都沒有交談。他內心激盪，為貝雅德麗齊，譜寫出不朽的詩篇《新生》，引發了後來改變世界的文藝復興運動。
我們在黃昏時刻，來到阿諾河上的維奇奧橋。傳說是一百年前，義大利畫家亨利豪里戴所繪《但丁邂逅貝雅德麗齊》畫中的那座橋。潺潺的河水，靜靜的流淌着，站在橋上眺望遠方的彩霞，低頭沉思，彷彿看見了但丁散文詩《新生》中的場景。
『新聖母大殿』
來到新聖母大殿，已是華燈初上時刻，所幸排隊入場的人不多，有足夠的時間，趕搭夜快車回威尼斯。警衛提出敬告，體力不足的旅客，請勿冒險攻頂。
近六百級石階，高約兩百公尺的羅曼型哥德式鐘樓建築，最寬處120公分，最窄處75公分。上下樓走同一通道，且空氣稀薄光線昏暗，最後一段幾乎要爬行而上，比登泰山還難。我與妻有心無力，放棄攀登。兩兄弟體力充沛，完成攻頂，回報心得令人羡慕不已。
新聖母大殿(Santa Maria Novella)興建在九世紀聖母祈禱院的地基上，1246年動工，1360年才完成，1420年（明成祖永樂18年）祝聖。
義大利的先賢們，在建造這座聖母大殿時，經過縝密思考，除了主體結構的考究外，設計出螺旋式的600級石階，每階30公分的樓梯，攀登至頂就是體力極限的考驗。
荒漠甘泉上説，如果你要認識基督，必須從現在的環境中走出，讓祂引你經過荒野爐火。當你走完全程，站在紅色圓頂的陽台上，俯瞰整個佛羅倫斯城時，視野寬闊心曠神怡，景物盡收眼底。此時此刻的你，會心境豁然開朗，頓悟開，喜樂增，智慧長。這不就是上主賜給人們的恩典嗎？
晩餐後搭乘北上高鐡，近午夜時分，在細雨中再度回到威尼斯下榻的旅館。(18)
【11月30日星期日】
清晨，疏雨初霽昫升霧散，舟楫催發行人熙攘，又見威尼斯的活力。早餐後，順着大運河東行，路經嘆息橋。
『嘆息橋』
嘆息橋(The Bridge of sighs)建於1600年(明神宗萬歴28年），係一密閉式的拱形石橋，橋內陰暗低矮，兩側各有小窗兩扇，是法庭通往監獄唯一的通道。
當受刑人由審判廳通過此橋前往獄牢時，只能彎腰低頭而過，從小窗遙望美麗的風景，感嘆前塵往事已成煙雲，方知失去自由的可貴，發出聲聲嘆息。
19世紀英國詩人拜倫(1788-1824），來到此橋，寫下一首名詩，嘆息生命的無常，因此得名。
『聖馬可教堂』
在旅館櫃檯，探詢到聖馬可教堂週日的彌撒時間，我們選擇上午十時三十分的一場。
一個天主教信徒，一生能到聖地禮拜，又能到全球最富盛名的聖堂，參加感恩聖祭，是天主最豐厚的恩寵，最慈愛的照顧。
長期以來我們未進聖堂，抱着贖罪的心情，雙臂交叉胸前，奉接神父特賜的聖體，內心激盪不已。
聖馬可教堂在廣場之東，與總督府相連，是拜占庭式建築的代表。前身建於西元828年，978年重建。現今的基礎於1063年成型，1094年(北宋哲宗紹聖元年）完工祝聖。華麗的大理石石柱，裝飾着各種精工石雕，細質的馬賽克鑲嵌，青銅鑄造的大門，融合了哥德式的建築架構，使聖堂顯得格外氣宇軒昂，莊嚴肅穆。(19）
『穆拉諾島』
午餐後步行至里阿朶橋，搭乘水上巴士前往威尼斯湖中的穆拉諾島（Murano)，航行約20分鐘，在Colonna站登岸。威尼斯潟湖中有近20座小島，穆拉諾島位於威尼斯北方約兩公里，面積約三點七平方公里，生產玻璃器皿聞名於世，十四世紀就有玻璃製品出口。
島上居民以製造玻璃產品為主業，十三世紀末葉，就會利用銅鈷化合物製造出彩色玻璃。島上有採購一條街，出售水晶、彩秞、金絲、乳白、螺紋、七色彩虹、金紅寶石混色等玻璃製品。舉凡人物、動物、花卉、花瓶、飾物、日用品等等，製作之精美，情態之逼真，嘆為觀止。
島上的朱斯蒂廣場有一座玻璃博物館，展示製作玻璃的過程及歴史，每個時期的玻璃産品，遠至古埃及時代。十人以上的團體旅客，可以現場觀看吹製玻璃的工序。
這天威尼斯冬雨緜緜，多半撐傘觀光，回程交通船按原路折返，各離島的中古世紀建築鱗次櫛比，泛宅浮家風光綺麗，令人目不暇給。
傍晚黃昏，湖面彩虹天水一線，回到旅館稍事休息後，興致不減，步行跨過里阿朶橋，至大運河西岸漫步。（20)
『里阿朵橋』
里阿朵河（Ponte di Rialto)係大理石塊砌成的單拱石橋，三座橫跨大運河巨型橋梁之一，也是歴史最久的一座。於1181年設計，原為一座浮橋，後經兩度改建。
今日的里阿朵橋，係義大利橋梁建築師安東尼龐特（Antonio da ponte)設計，1588年開工，1591年完成。屬文藝復興時期風格，遠眺像一頭站立在水面的白色大象。橋長90米，寬23米，高8米，橋下可通行大型水上巴士。橋頭橋尾兩端均有一條商店街。圓拱斜坡形橋身，中央門廊凸出，橋身加蓋，橋內就是一個市集，行人摩肩接踵交易熱絡。
石橋兩邊外側有䕶欄行人道，眺望運河舟楫穿梭，兩岸石樓古樸，人來人往，一片欣欣向榮，昇平歡樂景象。此時此刻心境沉聲氣靜泰然自若，有如《東京夢華錄》書內，形容出遊汴京開封，行走汴河虹橋之上一般。僕今追往悵然回首，前麈往事恍如一夢。
晚間在河岸一間餐廳，享用道地義大利海鮮餐點。小樓窗外細雨微風，河中畫舫游走，霓虹映波，笙歌悠揚，有如秦淮令人流連忘返。(21）
【12月1日星期一】
午夜過後至黎明，細雨絲絲縷縷下個不停。晨七時雨歇，巷道已積水近半英尺，旅店、住家忙於清理。奇景，水都威尼斯竟會淹水。
這天停留威尼斯只剩半天，中午將搭高鐵回羅馬。八時雨又起，一家人各撐一把傘，再一次流連威尼斯的街景，雨中的威尼斯更見風情。
我們來到聖馬可廣場，再次巡禮聖馬可教堂。驚訝的是，一次連夜雨後，廣場竟然在一片汪洋之中，水深及踝。數隻飛鴿立於鐘樓尖頂之上，叫聲咕咕俯視水面。
我們站在石階旁，看着廣場望著聖堂。我傾聽淅瀝的雨聲，沉思默想，竟然疏忽了一位年長的神父路過，他含笑用英語對我們說了一句：God loves you。我們感恩莫名，水中的聖馬可教堂，格外神聖莊嚴。
此時此景此情，聯想起蔣㨗那首虞美人「少年聽雨歌樓上」，「壯年聽雨客舟中」，「而今聽雨僧廬下，鬢已星星也。」我體會得出蔣㨗那種「悲歡離合總無情，一任階前點滴到天明。」感嘆人生無可奈何花落去，似曾相識燕歸來的心情。我搖了搖頭，清醒一下，別想這麼多了，把握時間，去搭乘小船Gondola逛運河去。(22)
『貢多拉』
威尼斯這座水上都市，河道及巷道縱橫，巷弄胡同五百餘個，大小運河一百五十多條，水巷行船，陸巷走路。
有一種每天穿梭在水巷，世界馳名的小船，名為「貢多拉」Gondola最具古典風格，是遊覽水都最有情趣的交通工具。載客六至七人，船長11公尺，寬1公尺50，黑色船身，由300塊櫧木板全手工打造而成。船體弧度大，兩端呈尖形，頗似陰暦初五的彎月，行動靈巧輕快。
一家人乘坐專屬小舟，行走大小運河兩小時。船夫撐篙搖漿，高唱義大利民歌，蜿蜒行走於水巷拱橋之間，觀賞古樓民房，陽台花園，彷彿置身夢幻城堡。近中午時分趕赴車站，搭乘高鐵南下羅馬。
下午3時10分，步出羅馬中央車站，步行十分鐘抵達最初下榻的國王旅店。半小時後，抓住時間漫步羅馬舊城。
『四河噴泉廣場』
羅馬古城各處古蹟散布，歴史悠久被人們稱為「不朽之城」，兩千多年來，經歴多次戰爭劫難，各古蹟仍舊盎然挺立，宏偉的建築氣勢雲林，震撼奪人。「羅馬不是一日建成」，只有身臨其境才能體會。
四河噴泉廣場(Fontana Del Quattro Flumi），係義大利建築師博尼尼（Bernini)於1651年(清世祖順治8年)設計建成。
噴泉在廣場中央位置，引用地下河水，經由一座高約200英尺的黑色埃及高塔建築中，利用擠壓原理，使地泉四面奔流。塔頂立一白鴿，代表天主教會在天之下。四噴泉代表全球四大河流的水，滋潤了全人類。四大河分別是亞洲的岡底斯河(印度河），非洲的尼羅河，歐洲的多惱河，南美洲的銀河(阿根廷境內），我們在此逗留了一個小時後離去。（23)
【維托里亞諾紀念堂】
維托里亞諾紀念堂(Vittoriano)又稱埃曼紐二世紀念堂，是紀念統一義大利的第一位國王埃曼紐二世，於1895年由義大利建築師朱塞佩薩克尼設計，1911年開工1935年築成。採取白色大理石建造。高大的科林斯圓柱，宏偉的階梯，噴泉四射。巨大的埃曼紐二世騎馬銅像，立於堂前中央位置。
紀念堂左右兩端閣頂之上，各有四輛雙輪戰車，女神維多利亞站立中央，均由青銅雕塑而成。堂前的一座有階梯的旗壇上，竪立一面巨幅的綠白紅三色義大利國旗，壯觀奪目。
這座長135米，縱深40米，高70米的新古典主義風格宏偉建築，與羅馬競技場齊名，完工迄今(2019年）已有84年歴史。我們在此停留了半小時後，繼續行程。
羅馬城的聖殿、教堂、噴泉、銅像、石雕、林園，多達160多個。要想逐一遊覽，對眾多的觀光客來說，是一樁很難辦到的事。
當天羅馬城冬雨緜緜，我們雨中漫步，盡情享受了這古城氣宇非凡的歷史風華。
羅馬、那不勒斯、佛羅倫斯、威尼斯，留下了我們的足跡，給了我們念念不舍永不忘記的美好回憶。(24）
【12月2日星期二】
昨日入夜後雨勢加大，今晨雨未歇，氣象報告羅馬城已下了一英吋的雨。4時15分趕赴中央車站，撘乘4時40分赴機場的首班巴士，於5時30分抵達羅馬達文西國際機場。
距離班機起飛時間，足足有三個小時，從容步行至櫃檯。未料遇上德航機師、員工罷工，我們經慕尼黑至華盛頓到洛杉磯的班機取消，我們立刻緊張起來，隨即趕赴德航辦公室接洽。
櫃檯前已有五位旅客先我們一步到達，我們耐心等待轉機安排。一個半小時後輪到我們，承辦員是一位中年婦女，很有親和力，一直與其聯盟公司聯絡，一個小時後終於有了好消息。
我們被安排到土耳其航空飛往伊斯坦堡的班機，再轉機直飛洛杉磯，整個行程比原先搭乘的德國航空，反而要快五個小時抵達。
拿着搭機通聯單，提着行李直奔土航櫃檯。兩個孩子跑得快，200公尺的距離，不到一分鐘就衝到，辦妥行李通行，拿到登機證後三秒鐘，電腦自動關閉，真是即驚又險。我和妻連跑帶走，氣喘吁吁，五分鐘後才抵達安檢入口，20分鐘後登上飛機。
機門關閉離開空橋，滑行至跑道。引擎加足馬力，飛機一飛衝天，羅馬城漸漸消失於眼際。
不禁想起一首1960年代的義大利流行曲《Arrivederci Roma再見羅馬》，我問兩兄弟是否會唱，給我起個音提個詞，居然兩兄弟唱了起來。這首歌曾翻譯過多種語言演唱，自然義大利歌手唱得最好，尤以Claudio Villa(1926-1987)唱得最有感情。我和妻跟著兩兄弟輕聲吟唱：那兒有羅馬的傳奇，懸着一束束古老的噴泉，如果我們拋了硬幣，它會讓你再回來。再見羅馬，再見羅馬。(25，本篇完）
第3篇：大象王國
曼谷行
2014年12月4日，小兒Anderson由洛杉磯經西雅圖轉赴上海，出任福特汽車公司亞太總部新職。次年(2015年）2月14日中午12時40分，我與妻撘乘聯合航空從洛杉磯赴上海，於當地時間15日下午6時，到達上海浦東機場，與小兒滙合。趁中國大陸春節長假，於次日晚間10時35分，搭乘上海航空，赴曼谷作六晚七日遊。
下午八時前往浦東機場，辦妥登機手續，通過安檢，到達登機門。卻因登機空橋另有用途，旅客無法登機。
航空公司用機場巴士，分批運送旅客前往兩公里外，停在停機坪的班機。外面的氣溫是攝氏五度，空氣濕冷，霧霾嚴重，能見度僅五公尺。
我有些不適，妻更有氣喘現象。登機後得到很好的服務，服了藥情況改善許多。在小兒孝心的安排下，坐上商務艙，還是第一排。這是我和妻40餘年來，開洋葷頭一遭。
在機上枯坐了三個半小時，也是從來沒有遇過的經驗。次日凌晨一時左右，大霧散去。飛機於1時50分起飛，飛行四小時三十分鐘，於泰國時間晨5時20分，到達曼谷素萬那普國際機場。(1）
此行除了觀光旅遊外，還要探望吾妻秀蓮的幼蘭表妹及其夫婿，以及服務於華航泰國分公司的妹婿。
步出入境大廳，驚喜的是，幼蘭親自駕車來接機。非常過意不去，讓她一夜未眠。我們傳達訊息，上海天候惡劣，班機延誤，不確定何時抵達曼谷，請勿接機。幼蘭的盛情，讓我們感動不已。
在晨曦中，一邊看著曼谷的街景，一邊聽著幼蘭的解說。車中還傳出音量適中的歌唱聲，那是多年沒有再度聽到，由美國女歌手Joy Enriques所唱的《How Can I Not Love You怎能不愛你》，奧斯卡金像獎影片《Anna and The King國王與我》中的主題曲。
此景此情，讓我們對曼谷這個世界大都市以及泰國這個美麗的國度，產生了更多的美好臆想。車行約40分鐘，到達下榻的華航特約酒店Rembrandt Hotel，並相約與幼蘭見面的時間。(2）
來到泰國的第一天，我們興致高昂，沒有受到旅途疲憊的影響，按照行程首先遊覧穿越曼谷市區的昭披耶河(Chao Phraya River)，中譯為湄南河(Mae Nam)，再到河濱商場瀏覧。用完早餐，與妹婿善鈞通電話，感謝他為我們安排的這間旅館，清靜幽雅既寬敞又舒適，交通更方便，步行10分鐘可達地鐵站，並約好見面時間。並在櫃台小姐那裡學到一句泰語《謝謝Khob Khun》。
我們參考曼谷城市圖及地鐵圖，搭乘SKY Train到達Saphan Taksin鄭王橋站，下車步行約300公尺來到河濱碼頭。（3）
這座碼頭原是一個小渡口，1900年泰國皇室因應需要，大興土木改建，迄今已越百年。
我們搭乘東方文華酒店(Mandarin Oriental Hotel)專屬，打造得美輪美奐古色古香的渡船，約10分鐘航程，到達東方文華店址的河浦碼頭上岸，享受一次著名的東方文華酒店英式下午茶。酒店環境幽美，蝶舞花香，露天咖啡座坐滿來自不同國家不同膚色的觀光客。各式飲料、香濱、咖啡、茗茶、甜點，應有盡有。見河面穿梭的遊船近在咫尺，眺覽兩岸高樓街景，河面風光碧波蕩漾。如此美景良辰，讓人心曠神怡，神采飛揚。
夜幕低垂，華燈初上，曼谷越夜越美麗，我們轉赴亞洲最大夜市Asiatique市集一覽究竟。(4）
搭上了東方文華酒店的彩舫，南行折返河濱碼頭，往Sathorn pier方向步行5分鐘，就到達Asiatique the Riverfront夜市，這個座落於曼谷舊城區的夜市，風光不減，由於名聲遠播，成了世界級的觀光景點，泰國政府重新規畫整建，於2012年5月擴大營業對外開放。
夜市格局具備泰國文化氣息，分成十大區塊，舉凡手工藝品、當地土産、泰式料理、精品商圈、人妖劇場、文創商品、成衣賣場、泰式按摩、咖啡廳、小飯館、路邊攤等等等等無一匱乏。霓虹燈五彩繽紛閃爍不停，人潮湧動熙熙攘攘，信步遊走在一幅幅令人陶醉目不暇給的熱帶風情畫裡。
我們邊走邊聊，從大陸的一帶一路到台灣的文創產業。這裡可以引進台灣的軟體實力，補強這裡的觀光事業。
我們也買了星期日夜場的人妖秀入場券，2月22日星期天，我們將再度遊歴這座大夜市。（5）
【2月18日，星期三
甲午年除夕】
為了配合旅行社安排的曼谷近郊一日遊，今天起了一個大早。上午六時，一輛Mini Van來到酒店，接我們前往曼谷市觀光局停車場，與其他觀光客整合，轉搭一部22人座中型觀光巴士，於七時許順着35號公路，沿着曼谷灣朝西南方向，前往Amphawa Floating Market水上市場及Maeklong鐵道市場。
車過沙梅巴干，驚艷一大片鹽田，在大海及陽光的映托下，一座座小鹽山，顯得絢麗輝煌。(6）
曼谷周邊地區的水上市場有七處之多，均分佈在湄南河的支流上，形成一個帶狀的水上人家，故曼谷有「東方威尼斯」之稱。遊覽巴士近九時抵達Amphawa Floating Market安帕瓦水上市場。
我們在一處專屬碼頭，登上一艘有忛布遮陽篷，可乘坐20餘人的遊船，作一個半小時包括水上市場和水上人家的遊覽。
水上市場長約500公尺，在狹窄的河面上，來往穿梭著各式各樣，大小不同，用途不同的船隻。其中最引人注目的是，頭戴平頂斗笠的婦人，單人操槳的售貨小船。船內載滿各種五顏六色的水果、蔬菜、花卉，靠近觀光遊船兜售。
使人驚訝的是，大船小船相互禮讓，居然能在兩船距離不足一呎內行走自如。
遊船接著進入水上人家，兩岸住戶門前窗前，家家戶戶佈滿各種花卉吊籃，如此幽美靜謐景象，使人心曠神怡。遊船折返原點，我們繼續行程，前往鐵道市場。(7）
離開水上市場，車行沒多久到達美功小鎮(Mae Klingon)，距離曼谷西南方約100公里。這裡可以看到全球唯一的鐵道市場奇觀，火車穿梭在攤販之中。
火車未駛進市場前，攤販佔據鐵道路基，緊貼著鐵軌兩旁，兩軌之間僅有1公尺20公分，就是人行道。
特殊的售賣攤位，像一輛超小型貨車，行動自如。
火車緩緩鳴笛駛進市場時，各攤販可從容在數秒鐘內，將攤子拉到待售位置。等火車駛離後，再推到原處繼續營業。
每日火車只有四班，觀賞奇景來回有八次，往往火車不準時，因此要事先卡位等待，攝影留念是必要的，但要小心安全。
這線火車近百年歷史，因其通過一座傳統市場，蔚為奇觀，因此未被拆除，被保留下來，如今成了全球知名度很高的觀光景點。
各攤位出售的蔬菜、水果、海鮮、肉品、生活雜貨、土產乾貨，應有盡有，且售價公道。
我們在鐵道市場及美功小鎮逗留近兩小時後，返回曼谷。（8）
下午二時許返抵曼谷，兩個小時後妹婿善鈞來到旅館，我們相談甚歡，談及兩天來曼谷觀光見聞。比較星、馬、越、泰四國，台灣觀光客以泰國為首選，除了曼谷外，另有清邁和普吉島也是很好的選擇。華航在曼谷有分公司，清邁和普吉島有辦事處。
晚間我們三人行，受邀赴幼蘭居所，共享除夕年夜飯。佔地約一個英畝，位於曼谷近郊的一個獨立莊園，綠樹婆娑花卉飄香，住屋寛敞，有一間設計新穎的書房，也是幼蘭夫婿徐位安先生的打坐修禪之地，在此我們佇足良久，傾聽位安先生的生活點滴，如沐春風，獲得啓示熏陶。
另有數位旅泰僑領初次見面，其中有一位在泰國經商近60年的蕭先生，其夫人吳大姐來自台灣。
一大桌豐盛的年夜菜中，有一道細質爽口香氣四溢的清蒸鰣魚，是幼蘭當天上午親赴菜場選購，並親自下廚烹飪，讓大家大快朵頤，稱讚不已。大家情致不減深談至午夜，幼蘭堅持親自駕車，送我們回到旅館。(9）
【2月19日，星期四
乙未年正月初一】
上午九時，撘乘地鐵至Saphan Taksin鄭王橋站，換搭渡輪順湄南河北上，約20分鐘航程，到達大皇宮碼頭上岸，遊覽宮內的玉佛寺等宮殿。
大皇宮建造於1782年(清乾隆47年)，面積21萬8千平方米，環繞整座大皇宮的宮牆有1千900米，包括玉佛寺在內的宮殿建築有34處之多。相較明清兩朝24帝，建成於明成祖永樂四年(1406年），面積15萬平方米，大小宮殿70多座的紫禁城，無論在大殿、御座、角樓、迴廊、宮牆、基本結構、文化特質上，各有千秋。
我們在威悉猜悉門購票進入，因為腹地廣闊，一天之內逐一參觀各宮各殿，絕無可能，只能選擇遊覧。（10）
我們參考遊覽導圖，為了精簡行程，35處景點縮減為10處。
《玉佛寺》
入宮後立即感受到它的雄偉氣勢，翠綠的大草坪左方，就是大皇宮西北角，自成一體的玉佛寺，佛寺四周以走廊環繞。
入寺後見一座大平台，平台上有相連的三座金塔，其中的「樂達納舍利塔」，供奉著佛陀的舎利子。
中間的一座「藏經樓」，建造於一世皇時代，藏經處以純金片打造。
再次一座呈十字形，高40米，殿頂有四層重檐的「碧隆天神殿」，殿前兩個角落各有一座，一世皇為了紀念父皇及母后而建造的雙金塔。
走出大平台，前往「大雄寶殿」，殿內供奉着用整塊翡翠雕成的玉佛，膝寛48公分，高66公分。
玉佛座前左右兩側，各有一尊三世皇為紀念一世及二世皇，而鑄造的帝皇佛像。佛像用青銅鑄成，外加黃金裝飾，每尊佛像使用黃金38公斤。
大雄寶殿，殿頂有三層重檐，上有龍首、龍鱗、鳳尾等構件裝飾，外層殿壁飾以彩色玻璃。
走出大雄寶殿，環視玉佛寺走廊，共有178幅壁畫，皆為一世皇時代作品，內容根據印度文學作品，繪成神話故事。
離開玉佛寺後，前往「武隆碧曼宮」。(11）
《武隆碧曼宮》
武隆碧曼宮是濕婆花園區內的一個主要宮殿，是一座歐洲式建築，建於1903年五世皇時代，是皇儲的宮院，也是接待國賓的地方。院內繪有印度吠陀神的壁畫，各畫下方標示著「國王十德」的要旨。隨後我們向西行，來到大皇宮早期建築摩天宮殿群。
《摩天宮殿群》
這個宮殿群由「因陀羅殿」、「偉大護國神殿」、「乍迦博碧曼」三座宮殿組成。因陀羅殿建於1785年一世皇時代，原是國王上朝聽政的地方，現在改為國家舉行重大典禮時的殿堂。
因陀羅殿之南是偉大護國神殿，裡面供奉著一尊由黃金鑄成的「暹羅護國神」像。此殿中有兩個國王舉行登基儀式的御座，暹羅䕶國神就供奉在兩個御座中間位置。
再向南行，到了乍迦博碧曼宮，此宮曾是一、二、三世皇起居的地方。宮門兩邊刻有內閣各行政部門的徽章，如內政部的獅子徽，國防部的象首獅身徽，外交部的手持蓮花的天神徽等等。我們對各個徽章的圖案設計，頗感興趣。聯想到中華民國行政院各部會，是否也能設計出一系列，凸顯中華文化圖騰的徽章。(12）
走出乍迦博碧曼宮，我們向西北方向走，來到節基殿。
《節基殿》
這座大皇宮內最具規模的皇殿，建成於1876年五世皇時代。「節基」有神盤和帝王的意思，也是曼谷皇朝的名稱。基本結構屬英女皇維多利亞時代的建築風格，有三個屬於泰國傳統建築藝術的方形尖頂。
節基殿分正、東、西三座，正座分三層，頂層是安奉歴代王族靈骨的地方，第二層是泰皇接見國賓的地方，下層是御林軍總部。
東座也有三層，頂層是歴代皇親國戚收集的藝品古玩展覽室，中層是國賓廳，低層是一般客廳。
西座頂層安奉歴代皇后、親王靈骨。中層是皇后賜見臣民的客廳，底層是一座圖書館。
《兜率殿》
離開節基殿，再往西行，來到兜率殿(Dusit Hal)，是一座泰國傳統宮殿建築。Dusit是印度文，佛經中譯為「兜率陀」。本殿呈十字形，殿頂有四層重檐，尖頂之下有一幅「金翅鳥捕龍像」，是傳說中的印度神話故事。殿內還陳列著一張一世皇的御床。
兜率殿更是作為國王、皇后、太后等人舉行喪禮的地方，其他重要大典，如國王登基紀念日等，也在本殿舉行。
我們在大皇宮走馬看花似的，作了五小時的精選遊覽，對於這個君主立憲的「泰族之邦」，有了一個摡括的認識。
走出大皇宮西門，已是下午三時。見數輛名為「TukTuk」的出租車，為了好奇搭上車，作市區遊。（13）
《嘟嘟車》
曼谷市區有一種極具特色的交通工具TukTuk嘟嘟車，以重型機車改裝成電動三輪車，因行駛時發生嘟嘟的噪音而得名，最多可乘四人。當地人很少搭乘，觀光客卻很青睞，索價不貲，通常是計程車的三倍。上車前必須談好價錢，不然會被坑。
我們搭上了嘟嘟車，未被噪音煩擾，反而享受到一種漫遊曼谷市區，難得的異國風情。
《四面佛》
嘟嘟車由大皇宮出發，經華南峰(Hua Lamphong)唐人街，到達沙拉鈴(Sala Daeng)。換搭BTS㨗運，由S2站到E1站(Chit Lom)，出了站就是曼谷市中心遊客眾多的四面佛觀光景點，附近有高級酒店及購物中心。
四面佛並未供奉在寺廟裡，而是在一個交叉路口上，每天至少吸引了近萬名觀光客膜拜。
半年後的8月17日，四面佛爆發了泰國史上最慘重的恐怖攻擊事件，22人死亡，上百人輕重傷，其中有四名中國遊客。(14）
離開了四面佛，搭BTS㨗運返回旅館，稍事休息後，前往Sala Daeng附近的一家餐廳，接受妹婿的邀請，出席下午六時華航曼谷分公司的新年團拜，看到包括公司同仁及眷屬、機師、空服員在內，近60餘人，喜氣洋洋相互祝福歡渡春節。妹婿這位大家長，還分發吉利包給每位小朋友，大家渡過了一個非常愉快的新春晩宴。當時舍妺在台北與家人過年，如果也在場，必定會增加更多的歡樂氣氛。
團拜後在返回旅店的途中，在㨗運沙拉鈴站，看見一位街頭藝人，看似來自中國大陸，也許是台灣，站在一個牆角邊，前面的小鐵筒裡，有好幾張小額的泰銖紙幤。
藝人正用小提琴拉著劉家昌作曲瓊瑤作詞的《一簾幽夢》，流水潺潺般的低吟，婉轉動人。在這大年初一的異國夜晚，聽來有一番悲愴淒美的感覺。（15）
【2月20日，星期五
乙未年正月初二】
今晨起床稍晚，早餐後到旅館附近的超市大賣場Big C，購買毎日必需飮用的礦泉水。這家超市在曼谷有連鎖店，類似台灣的大潤發、家樂福。
上午十時，幼蘭及其夫婿徐位安先生來到旅館，相邀赴佛丕（Phet Buri)及其周邊觀光景點作一日遊。
位安先生親自駕車，順著海邊向曼谷西南方向行駛。所經之處碧海藍天，遠眺曼谷灣內風平浪靜，偶有船隻通過。岸邊椰樹密集搖曳娑婆，一幅亞熱帶南國風情。
我們一行五人，進入一處海灘海鮮餐廳，位安先生點了數道正宗泰式海鮮料理。馳名的泰國對蝦，隻隻碩大肥美香嫩爽口，每隻都有半英尺長。佐以榮獲美國品酒協會評為亞洲最佳的泰國勝獅啤酒（Singha)，這次泰國行有福享受了難得的一次海鮮饕餮盛宴。
我們繼續向佛丕行進，佛丕又稱碧武里，面積6千2百平方公里，台灣六分之一大。是泰國中部一個具有悠久歴史的古城，西部高山森林覆蓋，是泰國和緬甸的天然分界線，東部有80公里長的海岸線，風景秀麗奇美，景點多達十處，短時間不能一一遊歴，只能選擇其中一二。(16）
回程順著差庵沙灘而東北行，途經佛丕直轄縣的「其立行宮歷史公園」。這座公園建於1860年，為拉瑪四世的行宮，是一處保有自然生態及人工造景的公園。所經之處緑意盎然，讓人心曠神怡。我們來到一處孔雀園，使我們雀躍不已的是，兩次看到雙孔雀開屏，這是我們五人，首次所見。
隨後到達筷子山Khao Takiab，近一個小漁村。山不高，林子裡公路上，全是大小不同的猴子，悠悠閒蕩，無視遊客存在。
原本猴子不多的這座小山，由於遊客不斷供食香蕉、花生、餅乾，甚至生力麵。在覓食無慮的情況下，繁殖力增加，無論老少眾猴，個個體態豐滿，逗趣可愛。可是高血壓、糖尿病隨之而來，壽命也就縮短不少。（17）
回到曼谷已是下午五時，位安夫婦送我們到旅館，時間還很充裕。隨後我們漫步在附近的大街上，看到三步五時就有一家旅行社，玻璃窗前張貼著巨幅遊覽泰國景點的招攬海報。如此場景，必定生意競爭激烈，出於好奇，進內了解一番。
比價之下，車資等花費，居然比旅館特約旅遊社，便宜近一半。當即登記付款，次日前往北碧府一日遊。
之後搭BTS空㨗，僅一站到達Nana娜娜夜市。曼谷的夜晚，越夜越美麗，夜市熱鬧氣氛，遠遠超過台北。各攤位排列整齊清潔，井然有序，未見有警察巡邏。買賣不成，仍然一團和氣，售貨員滿面笑容，合十答禮。對比今日台灣社會，就相形見絀了。(18）
【2月21日，星期六
乙未年正月初三】
上午六時三十分，一輛26人座的中型旅遊巴士，到旅館來接我們上車，車上已有五名遊客，車行至最後一站，全車坐滿。大約七點鐘，巴士開往距離曼谷西北方128公里的北碧府(Kanchanaburi)。導遊是一位會講英語的華裔年輕人阿豪先生，巴士行駛中阿豪作了行程說明，乘客也各自介紹了自己。
與我們鄰座的是一對年長的挪威夫婦，能說一口標準的英語及西班牙語，一路上彼此聊得很愉快。
北碧府面積1萬9千483平方公里，佔泰國面積二十六分之一，僅次於那空叻差是瑪府及清邁府，為泰國第三大省，人口73萬4千人。西部與緬甸為鄰，擁有泰國最大的雨林地帶，全境高山、森林、瀑布、河川密佈，北部更是山巒起伏，蜿蜒連綿，景色秀麗呈大自然原始風味。著名的景點有桂河大橋、戰爭博物館及死亡鐵路等等。（19)
二次大戰期間，泰緬兩國境內各有一條鐵路，一條由曼谷順昭披耶河北上至北碧府，另一條由仰光經毛淡棉跨薩爾溫江，到近泰國邊境的丹彪扎亞。
如果將兩條鐵路連接起來，將是一條陸上運輸㨗徑。從中南半島各國運送軍需物資，就不必繞過新加坡經麻六甲海峽到達仰光，至少可以節省十天時間。
連結兩條鐵路最近的距離，在泰國北碧府境內。測量山勢地形，最省時省力的建築路線，至少有400公里，而且要跨越一條河寬至少200公尺的大桂河，搭建一座大橋。當時在南亞作戰的日本軍，評估形勢，建築這條鐵路，有其戰略上的價值。（20）
《死亡鐵路》
20世紀初，英國曾勘測這條鐵路建成的可能性，因路段艱險工程艱鉅而放棄。
二次大戰日本在戰爭逼迫下，動員戰俘20萬人，強徵泰、緬、馬、中各國勞工25萬人，於1942年6月初，在泰緬兩國同時動工。日軍驅使盟軍戰俘及勞工，日夜趕工，在糧食飲水供應不足、過度疲勞、營養不良、醫藥短缺、環境衛生惡劣情況下，累死、餓死、病死、自盡而死的人，多達11萬人。平均每五步路就有一人冤死在鐵軌上，因此這條道路有《死亡鐵路》之稱。預計六年的施工期，卻在1943年10月17日，17個月內完成。(21）
我們一行人，在距離桂河大橋南方不到五公里的一處盟軍陣亡官兵墓園入口處，稍作半小時停留。
在此墓園內，長眠着6982名，被迫害建築鐵路而死亡的盟軍官兵，包括英、加、澳、紐、荷。一排排的墓碑排列整齊，環境清幽，花木扶疏，有專人管理。我們僅在園外，向這些為國捐軀的烈士們默哀致敬。
有一位墓園隔街雜貨店的華裔老闆說，相信是死亡官兵的後裔，幾乎每個星期，都有人到墓園獻花默禱追思。（22）
《戰爭博物館》
續程來到通拍蓮縣與緬甸接壤的一個小鎮，一條名為Kwai的大河流經此鎮。
著名的桂河大橋(River Kwai Bridge)及戰爭博物館(Jeath war museum)，都在方圓不到一公里的範圍內。
旅遊巴士停靠在Maenamk Wai路邊，一下車就看到博物館的入口。
入口處的巷道上，陳列着一輛，當年行駛在死亡鐵路上的蒸氣火車頭，牆面上有英文及中文正體字說明。二戰時期同盟國的國旗，都排列其上，中華民國青天白日滿地紅的國旗，相當顯眼。
入內分成許多單元，有築路工具、工寮帳棚、炊具用品、禁閉室、牙醫器材、刑具等等。最珍貴的是，戰俘建築鐵路及搭建桂河大橋時，拍攝下的照片。
博物館門票一張40泰銖，折合美金1元5角。遺憾的是，內部陳舊不堪，疏於管理，館內居然有攤販及雜貨店。我們在此停留不到一個小時，下一站到桂河大橋。（23）
《桂河大橋》
從戰爭博物館到桂河大橋，步行10分鐘即可到達。這是一座死亡鐵路上，跨度最長，施工最艱鉅，施工期間戰俘勞工死亡最多，屢遭盟軍轟炸的跨河大橋。原為木橋建築，1942年11月動工，1943年9月完成，建材來自印尼蘇門答臘，後以石墩鋼筋加固，並添鋼質護欄，以策行人安全。目前已成觀光景點，每日有兩班當年的蒸氣火車，掛著兩個車廂，以時速10公里，緩慢通過大橋。我們來得巧，目睹了一次驚艷的場景。
1957年有一部以英軍戰俘，被日本軍隊不人道對待，建築大橋為背景的電影《桂河大橋》，10月2日在英國各地上映，獲得英國電影史上最佳好評。次年1958年，該片榮獲第30屆奧斯卡金像獎包括最佳影片、最佳導演在內的七項大獎。
這部影片該年也在台灣上演，造成轟動。導演大衞連，演員亞歷堅尼斯、威廉霍爾登、早川雪洲，以及那首清澈響亮的口哨之歌「布基上校進行曲」，留給觀眾深刻印象。(24）
《大象村》
離開桂河大橋，巴士向南行，來到位於柿約縣北，Kwai河的一處浦岸改搭竹筏，坐在竹椅上，船夫撐竿划槳順水而下，觀賞兩岸秀麗風光。這是我們從來沒有過的體驗，讓人心曠神怡。竹筏緩緩行進，約15分鐘靠在對岸一處大象村，上了岸。騎大象是此行旅遊項目之一。
在泰國，有很多府縣都有大象村。不只是泰國，在緬甸、柬埔寨、寮國都有大象村。
大象在印度，被視為神物，曾是佛陀的座騎。在南亞和東南亞的佛教文化中，大象具有重要的文化意義。
1980年代，各國如雨後春筍發展觀光，將馴養的大象，當作遊客騎行取樂的工具，大象疲勞過度暴斃猝死的新聞，時有所聞。
21世紀，動物保護意識提升，越來越多的單位及個人，對那些將囚禁中的動物，作為商業行為，感到反感。
眼前的這個大象村，大約有老幼象隻20多頭，小象才三歲大，就被迫加入勞動行列。
我們排隊等候，兩人合騎一頭，輪到我們的卻是一頭小象，秀蓮及Anderson母子，為了減輕小象的負荷，選擇單獨坐騎，Anderson輕輕的拍了拍象背，說道：寶寶，可以出發了。小象用奇異又感激的眼神看著這位遊客，並且用牠的鼻子，親吻了Anderson。象是有靈性的動物，這一幕讓我們感動。(25）
《觀光鐵路》
緬泰死亡鐵路在二次大戰结束前數月，已被盟軍轟炸得支離破碎。戰後這條鐵路泰境部分，經營管理權交給了泰國政府。1949年4月，逐步修復，然而全程只有三分之一在利用。
目前這條路線從終點站Nam Tok算起，也只有50公里在行駛，運輸功能已失，卻成了一條觀光鐵路。
我們離開了大象村，再度搭乘竹筏，返回原浦岸碼頭。巴士將我們送往Nam Tok站，享受一次蒸氣火車觀光之旅，全程共7站，站距5至8公里。
火車順著小桂河，在距離河面50至80公尺高的台地上，以時速40公里行駛。窗外的風景隨著火車的前進，近觀、遠眺、俯瞰，場景一幕幕變換。
白雲在遠方山腰中游動，蜿蜒的山間小路，繞過樹林連結數間歐式的別墅小樓。一群大白鷺在河邊嬉水覓食。河面的竹筏、雙人操舟，來回穿梭。
風格新穎的小旅館，建築在草地花叢綠樹之中。鄉村俱樂部的露天廳臺前，一群人祝福一對新人，在進行結婚儀式。
在如此有著田園詩般，風光明媚的景觀下，坐著古早風味的蒸氣火車，漫遊觀賞，不枉此行了。（26）
結束了火車之旅，巴士在車站等候我們上車。在車上彼此已經沒有距離，大家談笑風生，有些互相交換了電話及網路地址。萍水相逢之中，四海之內皆兄弟姊妹，交了一些新朋友，感到相當愉快，回到曼谷已是華燈初上時刻。
在旅館附近，進了一間餐館，點了包括東蔭功魚、泰北鹵肉、素炒四季豆在內的數様泰菜，又一次品嚐了正宗的泰式餐飲，滿足了味蕾，填飽了肚皮。
【2月22日，星期日
乙末年正月初四】
經過了一天的旅遊行程，雖有舟車的勞頓，但今天仍然起了一個大早。餐後，搭乘BTS㨗運緑線，至N8蒙奇Mo Chit站，下車向北步行約10分鐘，到達乍都乍週末市場。
《曼谷週末市場》
Chatuchak Market乍都乍週末市場，是曼谷最大的市集，逢週六、週日開放，佔地有14萬平方公尺。20世紀初，只是一個批發商和商人的交易場所，現在已經是遊客必定造訪的觀光景點。
1982年開放設攤營業，目前已有1萬5千個攤位，舉凡農、漁、牧、禽、日用品、雜貨，進口商品、本地産品，應有盡有。每個交易日，約有20萬人到訪。2008年6月起，全區禁菸，違者罰4千泰銖，約合美金66元。這個市場每年為泰國賺取了至少美金20億元的外滙收入。
泰國有豐沛的觀光資源，發展觀光產業是全方位的。2018年旅遊人數有3千5百萬，2020年可達4千萬。2016年的觀光收益達泰銖1萬6千4百億元，折合美金約542億元，佔全國GDP總值的百分之17．7。
不過未來幾年，如此優異的成績，因政治因素，可能不會達標，也值得中華民國借鏡參考。
這個週末市集實在太大了，只能走馬看花瀏覧一番。(27）
離開了週末市場，已是下午三時，沒有回旅館休息。去搭乘㨗運淺綠線轉深緑線至S6鄭王橋站下車，步行至河濱碼頭，改搭渡輪至Asiatique河濱夜市。遠觀巨大的摩天輪廣場地標，在緩緩轉動。
這座落成於2012年4月27日的亞洲最大夜市，呈現的是歐美風格，各區攤位整齊清潔，管理得井然有序。商店生意興隆，餐館座無虛席。我們沿著河濱，逐步逛遊攤位，看着湄南河的夜景，越夜越美麗。走進室內商圈，各式各樣的商品，任人選購，裝璜新頴的設計，置身其中讓人流連忘返。
《變性人劇坊》
馳名國際的泰國變性人Calypso反串美女秀(俗稱人妖秀)，此處的演出水準，遠高於其他各處。每晚兩場，每場75分鐘，我們選擇8時20分開演的首場。
盛大的排場，在精典熱門歌曲的演奏下，由變性美女演出具有泰、中、日、韓各國，獨特民族文化的歌舞劇。泰國的孔舞、日本的蝴蝶夫人、韓國的阿里郎，都在劇中出現。
代表中國的編劇編舞，以上海灘為背景，演一位黑社會頭頭與一位美貌女子的愛情故事。頭頭擁眾美女於一身，小女子用情專一，但死於醋意槍下。
變性人從事演藝事業，在泰國受到法律保障，如有輕視或性侵行為，將受到嚴厲的譴責和處罰。回程在娜娜夜市，再次遊逛，步行到旅館，已近午夜。（28）
離開了安多哥農夫市場，直接搭BTS到E1七隆站(Chit Lom)下車，去逛曼谷最大的一座百貨公司Central World Mall中央世界商業中心。位於曼谷黃金精華地段，結合購物、餐飲、娛樂、辦公室的綜合商場大樓。2006年7月21日開幕，由Central Word Plaza、伊勢凡、Zen三大百貨公司組成。這是我們在泰國旅遊的最後一個行程，近下午四時回到旅館，分別以電話向位安夫婦、蕭先生夫婦、善鈞妹婿話別。盼望再次回來旅遊，行程將包括泰北清邁府及普吉島。
一座比Central World Mall更新穎更現代化的綜合百貨商場Iconsiam，於2018年11月9日開幕，斥資超過540億泰銖，折合美金18億元。是一座把水上巿場搬進室內的百貨公司，也是一座娛樂城。氣派豪華成了曼谷湄南河畔的新地標。
晚間八時，赴曼谷機場，搭乘11：00PM中國南方航空班機經武漢回上海。(30）
【2月24日，星期二
乙未年正月初六】
中國南方航空班機，因地勤作業延遲至次日(2月24日)凌晨近二時起飛，到達武漢已是清晨6時20分。
想不到的是，過了移民關，領取行李的時間，長達75分鐘，出外旅遊前所未見。
出了國際航線第一航站至國內航線第二航站，居然還沒有室內㨗運系統。必須走出室外，行李隨旅客由機場巴士接送。
當天武漢室外溫度是攝氏6度，由攝氏31度的曼谷飛到此地，溫度急降25度，寒氣逼人病苦難忍。
更想不到的是，等候機場巴士的時間，也長達7分鐘，被旅客駡翻。
巴士停車開門，隊伍也不排了，爭先恐後一擁而上搶座位，蔚為奇觀。
最近五年，武漢大力推動建設，九座長江大橋，將武漢三鎮合為一體，極有可能先廣州一步，成為中華人民共和國第五個國務院直轄市。
2017年8月31日，武漢天河機場三航站投入營運，但未見有一條室內㨗運系統。
到達上海已是下午一點，室外溫度攝氏10度。(31，本篇完)
第4篇：雲翔寺
與寒山寺
2014年10月26日，我與妻自台北啓程，與同一天由底特律到達上海的小兒Anderson會合，下榻浦東文華東方酒店。距離我離開中國大陸已經有65年，沒有想到四個月內竟然去了上海兩次。
Anderson因職務外派，要在上海尋覓一處未來三年的住所，請父母給他一點參考意見，也在就任前了解一下新單位的工作環境。上海只停留了八天，住所覓妥後各自回到工作崗位底特律及寓所洛杉磯。
12月8日，孩子從上海打來電話，述說他到任第一天的工作情形，並傳來好的消息，邀請父母於翌年春節期間，配合他的假期，先到泰國旅遊再回上海觀光。
2015年2月15日春節前，我與妻再次到了上海。正因為這一年是中華民國對日抗戰勝利70週年，先父參與淞滬會戰78週年。計劃在上海去憑弔父親當年參加戰役時的兩處駐地，南翔雲翔寺和蘇州寒山寺，因此此行也就更具意義。泰國七日旅遊後，回到上海已是二月下旬，上海已有江南初春景象。(1）
曼谷回來仍在年假之中，經過一整天的休息，次日至一街之隔的浦東正大廣場逐樓漫遊，是一處包括地下地上共計13層樓的大型商場，集購物、餐飲、娛樂、精品店、時裝店、銀行、電影院於一體。
在正大廣場七樓晚餐後，我們穿過酒店住宅的後花園，走向黃埔江畔。
展現眼前的是讓人驚艷迷人的景色，寛敞平坦的紅磚步道上，排列着古意盎然的路燈。燈光照射在長達兩百多公尺的步道花壇上，花香撲面而來。高空中懸掛的月亮，倒映在黃埔江中，與群樓中閃爍的巨型霓虹燈及穿梭在江中的彩舫、渡輪相互輝映。對岸外灘放射着璀燦的燈光，裝點出不夜城絢麗的夜空，彷彿走進了張若虛筆下「春江花月夜」的圖畫中。
我們坐定在一盞路燈旁的長板凳上，開始談天說地。我給Anderson講故事，妻一起傾聽。講我的童年上海，講爺爺當年參加八一三淞滬會戰時的軼事，也安排了未來數日的行程。（2）
《古鎮雲翔寺》
2月28日星期六，是個陰雨天，我們去了南翔，探訪古鎮老街及雲翔寺。民國26年「八一三淞滬會戰」爆發時，先父時任陸軍通信兵第一團補充營少尉排長，曽駐紥在雲翔寺，一頁戰爭的故事在此發生。
進入南翔市區已近中午，本擬至江南名園古猗園遊覽，並用小籠包午餐。無奈遊客如織，購票入園者大排長龍。為了節省時間，中餐改在大街飯館將就。餐後迫不急待，趕赴老街。
老街與一條小河平行，垂柳綠樹傍水而生，煙雨之中有一層濛濛之感。古鎮老街，閣樓建築呈現明清風格，石板鋪成的小街兩旁，酒旗布招迎風飄揚。茶坊、酒樓、店鋪、藥房、食品作坊、技藝表演，樣樣具全，漫步其中讓人流連忘返。元朝詩人蘇昌齡形容此地為「千載南翔古道場，層樓傑閣冠諸方。」道出了古鎮的千年芳華。今日古鎮老街不僅是庶民的商業中心，更是上海的觀光景點。
順着老街走到盡頭，一座建築於西元505年(南朝梁武帝天監4年）的古寺《雲翔寺》進入視線。
雲翔寺因其歴史悠久被譽為江南第一寺，原名南翔寺，傳說建寺期間有一白鶴，每日佇足建地，建成後飛往南方，因而得名。
西元1700年，清康熙帝南巡至此，題額更名為雲翔寺。1937年淞滬會戰時，古寺受日軍砲火波及，修復後保有原來結構，不失其超塵拔俗剛勁雄健之氣勢。
在這初春時節，漫步在古鎮老街上，頗有一種懷古幽情迷濛遊蹤的感覺。杜牧《江南春》「千里鶯啼綠映紅，水村山郭酒旗風。南朝四百八十寺，多少樓台煙雨中。」是對江南景物的讚歌，也是對過往歷史的一種感嘆。(3）
走入雲翔寺，見香火繚繞，信眾絡繹不絕。我們持香禮拜，祈福風調雨順國泰民安。隨後至各佛殿巡禮，一路隨緣遇到寺院住持。我略述先父於八一三淞滬會戰時，駐紮此寺的一段往事。這位耄耋僧人略有所聞，與其同行來到正殿右前方的一排禪房，推測應是當時的營房，那麼最內靠牆的一間，就是電話總機房了。我們在房前拍照留念，臆想父親口述當年在此發生的情景，久久不忍離去。
淞滬戰爭期間，父親駐紮雲翔寺39天，也是戰火最激烈的一個多月。通信兵在戰場上，首要任務就是維持通訊暢通。部隊有新據點，電話線就必須首先架設到位。如遭破壞就要搶修，那怕是在猛烈的砲火下，也要冒死完成任務。這場戰役父親帶領的弟兄，一人陣亡六人輕重傷，換來任務的達成。
因日軍在水源、水井下毒，存水用盡，馬尿視為珍品。因遍地烽火市場交易停擺，糧秣補給中斷，以致無米可炊，遂與僧侶分食南瓜。田裏已無農作可收，唯有冒險挖掘山坡野菜充饑果腹。
回想父親敘述當年的雲翔寺：寺內的香火，沖淡了漂浮的屍臭。夜空中稀疏的星星伴著月亮，不見飛鳥卻見禿鷹。半夜裏的鐘聲木魚聲，在嘶殺槍砲聲中，不停敲打。雲翔寺像一座巍峨的大山，在戰火中屹立不搖。
在雲翔寺見景思人，父親的身影一直在腦海盤旋裊繞。回程走在古鎮老街的石板路上，寺內的誦經聲漸遠漸弱。（4）
《蘇州寒山寺》
3月7日星期六，天空一片藍，良辰吉時遊覽蘇州寒山寺。
民國26年（1937年)10月31日，八一三淞滬會戰中期結束，國軍完全撤出上海，指揮中心遷往蘇州，先父由南翔雲翔寺遷紥蘇州寒山寺。
寒山寺因唐朝詩人張繼的一首《楓橋夜泊》「月落烏啼霜滿天，江楓漁火對愁眠。姑蘇城外寒山寺，夜半鐘聲到客船。」而馳名中外。
寒山寺原名楓橋寺，建於南朝梁武帝天監年間，稍晚於雲翔寺。兩百年後，唐朝詩僧寒山子，來此住持，更名為寒山寺。
先父駐紥寒山寺時，節令已過「霜降」，已有寒意，清晨可見秋霜鋪地，寺內增添一番蕭瑟。入夜人靜，遠方陣陣的槍砲聲斷斷續續，牆外銜命戰士疾走戰場，肅殺之氣砭入飢骨，令人悚然。
父親孤守電話總機房內，三更之後眺望夜空，只見星月不見烏啼。江楓漁火已無蹤跡，只見松枝晃動寒夜襲人，無復夜半鐘聲。
大約是11月7、8日上下，一個星期日的清晨，先父值班守在總機旁，接通了蔣委員長打給湯恩伯將軍的電話。通話不到一分鐘，電訊突然中斷，先父潛意識地奔出室外，見一人在電線桿上剪電話線，下面還有一名助手接應。隨即掏出手槍朝向二人射擊，居然出奇神準，二人均中要害當場斃命。隨後毫不猶豫奔回室內，提起接線工具，爬上電桿搶接電線。前後不到七分鐘，電話搶通。
電話中湯恩伯向委員長報告情形，獲得委員長嘉許。一週後通信兵團傳令，父親記大功一次。稍後奉調漢口，接受新的任務，晉升中尉。（5）
我們回憶父親的口述，參考寒山寺的平面圖，找到電話總機的位置。機房座北朝南，後面是一道界牆，牆外是馬路，東面是人行道，出了機房兩個左轉，約30步遠，是通往馬路的寺院側門。父親就是從這個側門，奔向馬路電線桿，擊斃兩名漢奸。父親口述中的木製電線桿，如今已換成輸送電力的高壓水泥桿了。
我們看到捻香膜拜的信衆，以寧靜的心境、清明的胸懷，無盡的情意，表達對佛陀的虔誠。遙想當年父親所見與我們今日所遇，感受雷同。雖然時間有異，却空間相同。
父親在八一三淞滬戰役中，表現出他的睿智和英勇。他服務軍職近40年，以「主義、領袖、國家、責任、榮譽。」軍人五大信念為圭臬。回顧他一生對國家的忠誠，在通信作戰上的卓越貢獻，足可稱得上是一位熱愛國家的模範軍人。父親畢業於黃埔軍校通信兵科17期，名其二，字仲影，民國96年（2007年)10月9日，逝世於台北市，享年九十歲。
離開前，我們登上西側八角鐘樓，俯視寒山寺全景，眺望當年的電話總機房，久久不移視線，心中黙禱父親在天永福。寫七絕一首以誌纪念：
七十八年歧嶇路，
楓橋寒山景依舊。
哲人黃鶴踪已遠，
憑欄追思登鐘樓。
（註釋：七十八年，從1937年淞滬會戰起，至2015年探訪寒山寺止，相隔78年。）(6，本篇完）
第5篇：克里夫蘭
搖滾行
2019年10月18日，我與妻赴底特律小兒住所，作五個星期的停留。一來為他做一些他喜愛吃的中國菜及一些藥饍，調補調補身體外，二來每週六及週日出外旅遊，看看入秋後的密西根州美景。
前兩週先後到過法蘭肯斯Frankenmuth德國小鎮，亨利福特美國創新博物館(Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation)，密西根州立大學農業實驗林場隱湖花園(Hidden Lake Gardens)。
11月2日星期六，天氣晴朗，我們選擇跨州行，去了俄亥俄州Ohio的克里夫蘭(Cleveland)，路過二線城市Toledo參觀傳統農夫市場，及具有百年歷史地標之一的克里夫蘭傳統西儲市場。
此行重點是參觀克里夫蘭的搖滾名人堂(Rock and Roll Hall of Fame)，這是一座成立於1986年，展示與紀錄搖滾音樂相關歴史與人物、藝術家、作品創作人的博物館。(1）
克里夫蘭是俄亥俄州第二大都市，次於首府哥倫布市，位於伊利湖(Lake Erie)南岸，凱霍加河(Cuyahoga River)河口。二次大戰期間，為軍需工業大城，與賓夕法尼亞州的匹茲堡市齊名。
克里夫蘭於1796年建市，是世界搖滾音樂之都，有其宗教、種族、歷史、地緣政治上的種種原因。
17世紀20年代，一批英格蘭分離主義者，從英國普利茅斯港橫渡大西洋，到達新大陸定居下來，後續者陸續湧進。
為了新天地的建設經營，急需大批勞工。一批批來自西南非洲的黑人，被人口販子用拐騙或強押方式，像豬仔一般運到新大陸。從此與家鄉絕緣，成了終身奴隸。到了17世紀中葉，一些算是有點人性的業主，將其家屬親人，接去團圓，但是仍然過著低賤的奴隸生活。(2）
包括英屬西南非洲殖民地甘比亞、加納、喀麥隆等地的黑人奴工，多半生活在美國南方各州，從喬治亞、阿拉巴馬、密西西比、田納西、肯塔基到德克薩斯都有。
這些離鄉背井的非洲裔美國人，長期生活在思鄉、焦慮、恍神、無奈的狀況下，常以兩種方式抒發情緒解除壓力。一是到專屬的教堂做禮拜，二是用歌聲唱出心中的鬱悶，沖淡對家鄉的思念。
歌聲藉由做禮拜的機會，伴隨著家鄉傳統的舞蹈，快節奏的盡情奔放。但也有賦就期盼追求理想的慢節奏藍調歌唱，音樂家們將這些唱作俱佳的歌聲，稱為黑人靈歌。逐漸引導出郷村音樂、爵士音樂，以及1950年代至今歷久不衰的搖滾音樂。(3）
1950年代的美國，國強民富，富甲天下，廣播事業進入了一個新里程，幾乎家家戶戶都有收音機，黑人歌曲藉此傳播至全國各地，當時克里夫蘭是美國廣播電台最多的城市。
1951年克里夫蘭WJW廣播電台音樂節目主持人Alan Freed將黑人歌曲引進，逐漸被白人接受。尤其是快節奏的歌曲，由年輕人領唱，帶入家庭、校園、社會，蔚成風氣。Alan Freed在節目中突發奇想，給這種歌曲命名為Rock and Roll。
50年代中期，美國唱片製作業如雨後春筍。全自動換片的電唱機已很風行，更加助長了Rock and Roll的傳播。此股風潮很快由克里夫蘭傳開，1959年一次超大型的演唱會在此舉行。這一年，流行樂之王(King of POP)麥可傑克森(1958-2009)尚未出生。四歲就開始演唱的麥可傑克森，於1968年經親友介紹，從他的家鄉田納西州的孟斐斯到達密西根州的底特律，出版了他的第一張唱片，由他的哥哥带领在街頭開唱，造成轟動。
1963年搖滾樂傳到英國，披頭四樂團從此開始。1965年流行於舊金山、洛杉磯、紐約，往後幾年更遍佈全國各大小城市。
戰後一代的年輕人，因搖滾音樂，找到了一個抒發情感的缺口，年長者也由不能接受轉為喜愛。
為了助長演唱的效果，也激發了服裝設計師的創意，各種各樣的服飾，紛紛出爐。(4）
在推廣搖滾音樂的過程中，50年代及60年代的收音機廣播，70年代至90年代的電視廣播，到21世紀的網路傳播。產生了上百名頗具盛名有關搖滾樂相關的作曲家、歌手、藝術家。
1986年前後，有貓王艾維斯普里斯萊、詹姆斯布朗、傑瑞劉易斯、女歌手艾瑞莎弗蘭克林，近60人。
在樂團方面，着名的有披頭四樂團(喬治哈里森、約翰藍儂、保羅麥卡尼、林哥史達），漂流者組合，至上女聲組合，超過30餘團。
其次，美軍派駐海外基地的官兵及聘雇人員，推廣Rock and Roll也功不可沒。從韓戰結束至目前仍在持續中的阿富汗、伊拉克戰爭，60餘年來，常駐海外官兵近35萬人，輪調官兵超過400萬人。搖滾音樂隨着這些年輕官兵們的引進，不但帶動了當地的流行，更影響到當地歌手的演唱路線及作曲家的思路。
在台灣就是一個例子，歌手歐陽菲菲唱的一首《熱情的沙漠》，風靡了不少聽眾和觀眾。其韻律幾乎與POP搖滾《California Dreaming》如出一轍。(5）
60年代中期，美國國內的民權運動及反戰運動，在全國各大城市及大學校園，興起漫延。尤其是戰後出生的一代，無法容忍現實，紛紛走上街頭。
當時西歐國家的年輕人，同樣與美國一樣，有着同樣的感受。搖滾音樂正逢其時，填補了心靈上的空虛，英國披頭四的崛起，是一個明顯的例子。
80年代MTV在美國流行，助長了搖滾樂的影響力。美國政府也大力協助，推廣至亞洲及中南美洲，甚至深入東歐各國及中國大陸。深度影響了當地年輕人，對歐美民主國家的嚮往，解放了他們長期以來的精神壓迫。
美國的軟功能，不到十年時間，最終摧毀了東歐及蘇聯的解體，也影響到中國大陸，這是美國外史上的一項大突破。
我們在克里夫蘭Rock and Roll大道，Lake Erie湖畔的搖滾名人堂博物館，逗留了三小時，暸解到搖滾音樂推廣的過程，著名歌手及作曲家的生活，以及對全球產生的影響。（6，本篇完）
Parts of this introduction that were in Chinese were translated by AI (Claude) in November 2026. Not yet reviewed by the author.
Translated from the Chinese by AI (Claude) in November 2026. Not yet reviewed by the author. The three PDFs lost 81 characters their font couldn’t show; they were filled in from context before translating.
Contents目錄目录 (6)
Chapter Three: Far Away, Yet Next Door
Essay 1: Journey to the Homeland
A Trip to Shanghai
Foreword: In the 1970s there was a magazine in Taiwan called Travel Magazine (旅行雜誌). I read almost every issue and could hardly put it down. It all went back to the ten years I had lived on the mainland, following the army units my father served in through the War of Resistance against Japan and the civil war, drifting from place to place. What I saw then were mountains and rivers trampled and broken.
In 1950 we arrived in Taiwan, where I studied, worked and lived for thirty years. In those days the only people who could go abroad were students going to study overseas; even wealthy families found it hard to travel abroad as tourists.
I always hoped that one day I could go abroad to see something of the world, and return to the Chinese mainland, which I had left nearly seventy years before, to recover the memories of my childhood.
In 1980 I parted for a time from my parents and went with my wife and children to Panama. I thought we might soon go back, but we never expected to stay away forty years: twenty in Panama and twenty in the United States.
Thanks to our children, my wife and I have travelled in the past five years to a number of countries in Europe, the Americas and Southeast Asia. Better still, I had the good fortune to set foot once more on the long-missed soil of my homeland, and so fulfil the dream of years ago. (1)
The account: In the 1950s, when I was in primary school in Taiwan, I read in my general knowledge textbook that Shanghai was the fifth-largest city in the world. I don't know how that ranking was worked out, but dense population, busy traffic, thriving industry and commerce, and modern urban construction must all have been among the criteria.
In the three years after victory in the War of Resistance against Japan, I was in Shanghai twice. In 1946, when my father was posted to a new military assignment in Northeast China, we passed through Shanghai and stayed three weeks. In December 1948, as the Huaihai Campaign was going badly, I went with my mother from Qingdao to take refuge in Shanghai.
With the Qingdao withdrawal in June 1949, I went with my parents and the army to Hainan. In January 1950 we went from Haikou to Taiwan. Sixty-five years passed, and I never again set foot on the soil of the Chinese mainland.
In 1987 martial law was lifted in Taiwan, and visits to relatives on the mainland were allowed. In the twenty years that followed, my parents went to Shanghai four times. For the 2010 Shanghai World Expo my mother went to the mainland for the fifth time, to share in the great occasion. My younger brother and sister, and their spouses, went back and forth to the mainland several times. I alone kept putting off the return.
Toward the splendid mountains and rivers of my homeland I always had a feeling of distant hills and wide waters, of a world vast and uncertain: longing yet shy, wanting yet afraid, the closer to home the more it hurt. My impression of Shanghai was half memory and half imagination, and the imagination came from what my parents told me, filling in my blurred recollections.
Back then in Shanghai: the Bund thronged with traffic; riding a rickshaw across the Garden Bridge (Waibaidu Bridge); seeing films at the Grand Theatre; buying sneakers at the Wing On Department Store; carrying a thermos flask to the head of the lane to buy boiled water for my mother; digging wild shepherd's purse in the countryside at Zhenru. All of these are branded on my childhood memory.
For many years the media had carried countless reports of Taiwanese returning to their home towns. We often heard stories of old soldiers coming home to joyful reunions; of "a lonely grave a thousand li away, with nowhere to tell one's grief" (千里孤墳，無處話淒涼); of a lifetime's savings swindled away by relatives; of people who, before they died, asked friends to carry the urn with their ashes back to their native place after their death.
For me, many outside factors weighed on my own feelings, and I kept wavering about a journey to the homeland. (2)
In March 2010, after eight months' work, I finished a long essay of 66,000 characters, Ten Years Adrift, Watching Mountains and Rivers (十年流離看山河). One passage in it reads: The fighting on the Yangtze River had reached a crisis, Shanghai could fall at any moment, and my mother took the children on a ship back to Qingdao. My mother and I stood at the bow of the ship Lichun, gazing back at great Shanghai; urged on by the slanting sun, the Huangpu River gradually disappeared from sight.
Thinking of that episode, I wrote a seven-character quatrain in the essay to describe how my mother felt at the time: "Over the Huangpu River, among the white clouds, / In sorrow I watch the lone city at the edge of the setting sun. / Why should the flute lament the willow? / In what year will the day of reunion come?" I thought that, now that I was nearing eighty, there would probably be no chance in this life to see the mountains and rivers of the mainland again.
On September 28, 2014, Anderson called from Detroit to tell us he had received an official letter from Ford Motor Company headquarters about a personnel change: he was being transferred to the Asia Pacific headquarters in Shanghai, effective December 1.
That call, like joy falling from the sky, had us jumping with delight. We thanked God for His gifts to our family. First, my younger son's ability at work had been recognized; second, my wish to see the mainland again had found its chance. A door leading to Shanghai had opened.
Ford instructed Anderson to go to the Asia Pacific headquarters in Shanghai before taking up the post, to get acquainted and to find a place to live, all by late October. So my elder son Anthony booked us plane tickets online from Los Angeles via Taipei to Shanghai. On October 7, my wife and I boarded the plane for our "Journey to the Homeland: Shanghai". (3)
We arrived in Taipei on the evening of October 8. On this trip we went home first to see my mother, and spent eighteen days in Taiwan keeping her company, without any other activities. The next day happened to be the 75th anniversary of my parents' wedding. My mother, who had lost her companion seven years before, seldom went out. Nuns from the church came to the house to bring her Holy Communion and to pray for the coming of the Holy Spirit, and the whole family surrounded her with loving care: a joy of eternal blessing.
While we were in Taiwan, my mother recalled how we had fled from place to place through the eight years of the War of Resistance against Japan and the Chinese Civil War. She hoped the younger generations would listen to the stories of the upheaval and wandering endured by their grandfathers and grandmothers, their fathers and mothers, and put them into writing, so that the sons and daughters of China, generation after generation, would remember this tragic and heroic page of history.
On October 26, my wife and I took a China Airlines flight direct to Shanghai. I sat by the window, watching the plane sway above the white clouds, and imagined the splendid land I had been away from for sixty-five years, with all its people and things.
The plane slowed and gradually descended, circling over Shanghai. I could clearly see the forest of tall buildings and the cruise boats shuttling on the Huangpu River. It felt very much like "The islets are clear, the sand white, birds wheel back; / The endless Yangtze comes rolling on" (渚清沙白鳥飛回，不盡長江滾滾來). Yet what rose in my mind was the quatrain my father composed during his illness in midsummer 2006: "The green hills and blue waters are still there; / Under the bright moon, the old country's Nine Provinces are one. / On the day the Divine Land is revived and united, / At the family sacrifice, do not forget to tell your father." The moment the plane touched down, my calm turned to deep emotion. (4)
Stepping out of the plane, everything in sight was dazzling. Pudong Airport before me, with its magnificent buildings and fresh design, could be called world-class.
In the arrivals hall we waited for my younger son to meet us. He had arrived in Shanghai three hours earlier, from San Francisco via Beijing. We saw him coming toward us, full of energy. He was here to look for a home for the next three years, and had taken the chance to invite his parents on a trip to Shanghai.
A few minutes' walk from the airport brought us to the maglev train station. We enjoyed the thrill of the fastest ground transport there is, the "bullet train": the line is 31 kilometres long, with a top speed of 387 kilometres an hour and no intermediate stops, covering the whole distance in 8 minutes. At the time it was a demonstration line in mainland China; now (2019) there are five lines, extending to other parts of the country.
On May 24, 2019, a new generation of maglev train was tested in Qingdao, Shandong, aiming for a top speed of 600 kilometres an hour. It is expected to be completed in three to five years, and then the trip from Beijing to Shanghai will take only three and a half hours.
Sitting in the fast, smooth, comfortable carriage, I watched little streams, wooden bridges, field ridges and ponds flash past the window. In the distance, the fields, farmhouses and woods showed their vitality in the misty drizzle. There rose in my mind those days in 1949 in the Zhenru countryside, digging wild shepherd's purse, picking up discarded vegetable leaves, and gathering dry twigs and bamboo leaves for firewood.
Before the Spring Festival that year, my mother took me to Caojiadu to buy things for the New Year. Our transport was a hired bicycle: the passenger sat on the luggage rack at the back while the owner pedalled, dripping with sweat, along a bumpy gravel road. The 15-kilometre trip took two hours, and pedaller and passenger alike had a hard time of it. The two means of transport simply cannot be compared.
Leaving the maglev at Longyang Road station, we took a taxi along Jinxiu Road and down Century Avenue, past the Shanghai World Financial Center and the Jin Mao Tower, around the Oriental Pearl Radio and TV Tower, and arrived at the Mandarin Oriental.
Everywhere we passed, tall buildings soared into the clouds, the city beautified with clean, sharp lines; what unfolded before us was a stunning sight.
Since 1992 Pudong in Shanghai has undergone large-scale, planned urban development. In just over twenty years it has been completely transformed, rivalling the world's great cities such as New York and Chicago. A rising China and a Shanghai in sudden change delight, astonish, dazzle and amaze the world.
We checked into a room with a sitting room on the 21st floor of the hotel. Every room was elegantly furnished, the furniture refined, the lighting soft, and the beautiful view of the Huangpu River lay spread out beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows. At once I felt refreshed and at ease, and the fatigue of the journey vanished.
Looking across to the Bund in Puxi on the far bank, the setting sun sank behind the buildings, and below us the Huangpu River surged eastward to the sea, a magnificent, sweeping scene. I stood at the window lost in thought for a long while, not knowing what night it was, as if in a dream. I could not help recalling the poem Wang Zhihuan wrote 1,300 years ago on the Stork Tower on the east bank of the Yellow River at Puzhou (today Yongji, Shanxi Province), gazing at the distant plain and watching the Yellow River roll away, singing of the magnificent land: "The white sun sinks behind the mountains; / The Yellow River flows into the sea. / To see a thousand li further, / Climb one more storey" (白日依山盡，黃河入海流。欲窮千里目，更上一層樓。).
In the distance on the far bank the wharf of the International Passenger Terminal was faintly visible. Sixty-five years ago my mother had taken her children on a ship there and left Shanghai. Looking back on how changeable the world is, seeing it again today was a different feeling altogether. (5)
Before nightfall we hurried impatiently to the pier and crossed the river to the Bund; the moon was already showing in the blue sky. Standing at the rail, we took in the scenery on both banks, the lights like pearls scattered on a jade plate, dazzling to the eye. The sight stirred a hundred feelings, the sorrow of a long-absent traveller grown old. In the manner of He Zhizhang's two poems "Coming Home (Huixiang Oushu)" (回鄉偶書二首), I too wrote a poem to express what I felt: "Many are the years since I left my homeland; / The spring wind has not changed the waves of old. / Year after year the river flows east; / Generations of human life pass in laughter and talk. / Who knows how many come home by moonlight? / The setting sun stirs the heart, the whole river red. / The Bund's lights come on as dusk falls; / From the ferry landing I gaze across the river at the towers."
At the Bund we got off the boat and walked north along the winding embankment, past lush green lawns, in a gentle breeze, among bustling crowds. Across the street, old buildings of widely differing styles stood row upon row, and under the bright, colourful neon lights their weathered strength stood out in all its beauty.
Time turned back to 1946, when my parents held my hands and crossed the road where No. 19 on the Bund meets Nanjing Road East. Now it was our son supporting me and his mother as we crossed the same road at the same corner. Walking west along Nanjing Road East for five minutes, we reached the Peace Hotel. (6)
The Peace Hotel was built in 1906 (the 32nd year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing), a famous historic building. It has a south and a north building, and has long been a favourite place for wealthy merchants, politicians, celebrities and tourists to gather, dine and take in the view. It has come through a hundred years of splendour and is still thoroughly elegant today. After the victory over Japan, my father, barely thirty and already a major, dashing, bold and debonair, once brought his family to dine here. Today I dined here too with my wife and my younger son, and a feeling of remembrance and longing welled up.
Our son had reserved a table online beforehand. We went upstairs and took our seats. There was no band of Filipino musicians as in the 1940s, but strains of jazz drifted over to us. My younger son had joined sixty-eight years of time together; in choosing the Peace Hotel as the place for our first dinner in Shanghai, he meant a great deal.
After dinner we went up to the rooftop garden. The view was wide, and the brilliant, beautiful night scene of all Shanghai lay spread out before us.
As we left, we saw that both sides of the long corridor on the ground floor displayed the historic glories of the building as captured by the camera, with detailed explanations in Chinese and English, recording the story of its hundred years of change.
Leaving the hotel, we walked west to the pedestrian street, where the old names Maochang Optical, Lao Feng Xiang jewellers and the Wing On Department Store all stood clearly before us. Along both sides of the street were flower beds, sculptures, shops, stalls and street performers. Strolling there without the bother of cars, one can freely enjoy the lights of the night, fine food and shopping as the mood takes one. It is an experience of charm and culture; here we saw no decadent extravagance, but youthful vitality.
On the ferry back to Pudong, we watched the brightly decorated boats on the river shuttling past, and the lights on both banks were as bright as day. The bell of the Customs House chimed with a lovely rhythm, harmonious and pleasing to the ear. On our first day in Shanghai, we enjoyed a night of "The night sky dazzles, stars falling like rain; / The ninefold heavens a riot of colour. / All the world's noise and cares can be cast away; / Enchanted this night, I did not sleep." (7)
The next day (Monday, October 27, 2014), at nine in the morning, the housing agent contracted by Ford's Asia Pacific headquarters, a young man in his thirties named Xu, arrived at the hotel in a Chevrolet SUV with a driver named Wang to begin five days of house hunting.
Mr. Xu was university-educated, refined and courteous. He spoke good English, had seen a great deal of the world, and had worked as a housing agent for twelve years, serving foreign businesspeople, expatriates and consular officials. The driver, Master Wang, was nearly fifty and came from Zhejiang. He was friendly and drove smoothly and skilfully.
In the hotel lobby, Mr. Xu briefed us on the five-day itinerary. Following the list my younger son had drawn up, it covered high-rise residences, serviced hotel apartments, garden condos and detached houses with views. We would start nearby with the Mandarin Oriental and visit each place in turn.
Ms. Qiu, the housing manager, received us and showed us around the various floors. My younger son asked questions as he looked and took careful notes, ticking and circling items on a chart he had designed himself, which saved a good deal of time. He also took photographs of everything for later reference. We then visited the Shangri-La and the Marriott in Pudong, and the first day's tour ended at four in the afternoon.
I had a suit that needed taking in, and one of my younger son's new colleagues gave us an address: a clothing market building near the Nanpu Bridge, where everything is done under one roof, from choosing a style and buying the fabric to taking measurements and making the garment. Nearly two hundred shops on its many floors offer endless choice, with fine fabrics, skilled work and fair prices.
We decided to go by subway, walking to Lujiazui Station to board, so as to try the Shanghai metro and compare it with the transit systems of New York, Los Angeles and Taipei.
Lujiazui and Nanpu Bridge are both major stations, with brand-new facilities that surpass those of New York and Los Angeles and are on a par with Taipei's. Unfortunately, when nature calls it is hard to find a restroom, and the stations are not as clean as Taipei's. Accessible passageways are hard to find, and to use the elevators you must apply in advance. Boarding and getting off was utterly disorderly: people pushed to be first, bumping into one another was unavoidable, and I never heard a word of apology. The seats reserved for the elderly, the frail, women and children might as well not have existed; most were taken by young people. One public-service notice in the carriage read: "Keep order, be civil — foreigners are no exception" (守秩序，講文明，老外也不例外). It was a classic, quite clever, and it made us smile.
Following the address, we came to Master Zhu's shop, where his assistant served us coffee. The measuring took only five minutes; the suit would be ready in three days, with a perfect fit guaranteed.
In 1949, Master Zhu's grandfather went to Hong Kong with his fellow tailors to make a living, and he passed his craft on to Master Zhu's father. Thirty years later came reform and opening up; construction of every kind flourished in the motherland, and Shanghai rose at astonishing speed. The old grandfather longed to go home, and in 1998 the whole family returned. Master Zhu carried on the family trade, ran the business, and made a name for himself. The Zhu family's story reflects a chapter in the migrations of Shanghai's suit tailors.
After nightfall we returned to Lujiazui. The skyscrapers seemed to reach the stars and the moon, their lights dazzling and dreamlike, a world apart from the old Shanghai of the foreign concessions. Lujiazui was once a desolate stretch of land, and older Shanghainese used to say, "Better a bed in Puxi than a house in Pudong" (寜要浦西一張床，不要浦東一間房). Now, seeing with my own eyes this new city on the east bank of the Huangpu River, shaped by the sweeping changes of the age and the impact of Western culture, I marvelled at the speed and sheer force of its construction. (8)
On the third day (Tuesday, October 28), Mr. Xu arrived in the hotel lobby at 9:30 a.m. to continue our tour. We went first to a riverside garden apartment complex, then to high-rise residences in Puxi, and after that to the hospital attached to the Shanghai Entry-Exit Inspection and Quarantine Bureau to complete the medical examination required of foreign businesspeople and expatriates for long-term residence.
As the car passed along Yuyuan Road, my younger son, sharp-eyed and quick to speak, cried out, "Ahead on the right, ahead on the right, the Paramount Ballroom!" My wife and I immediately spotted it. Built in the 1930s, the five-storey ballroom stood wedged among modern high-rises, looking lonely and forlorn, its glamour long faded.
The car did not stop, but I was lost in the scenes of the Paramount in the old Shanghai of the 1940s that my parents used to describe. Jin Daban, the heroine of Pai Hsien-yung's story, also came to mind. I seemed to see the figures and hear the voices of Zhou Xuan, Ruan Lingyu and Bai Guang, setting the mood for nights when society ladies and gentlemen danced to "boom cha-cha, boom cha-cha."
Fortunately the Shanghai municipal government has spared no effort to protect historic sites, and the Paramount Ballroom, which has lived through countless joys, sorrows and vicissitudes, has been preserved intact, carrying on the splendour of its past.
A few minutes later we reached East Yuyuan Road, where the plane trees lining the street danced in the wind; against the autumn rain they looked bleak and shivering. Perhaps sensing our nostalgia, Mr. Zhang pointed to a seven-storey Italian-style building ahead and said: That is another of Shanghai's historic buildings, the Changde Apartments. Its old name was Eddington House.
At the mention of Eddington House, I immediately thought of Eileen Chang. We asked our driver, Master Wang, to pull up close and stop for a moment. A plaque engraved "Former Residence of Eileen Chang" was set into the wall, with an account of her life in smaller characters. It was an unexpected bonus. This remarkable figure in the history of modern Chinese literature lived a life that was rough, lonely, brilliant and legendary.
The scene was just as Yan Shu wrote: "The golden autumn wind blows soft; leaf by leaf the plane trees drop" (金風細細，葉葉梧桐墜); "Long I rue the parting pavilion; tears fall on my spring robe, and wine soon wears off. Last night the west wind blew hard through the plane trees, under a faint and hazy moon" (長恨離亭，涙滴春衫酒易醒。梧桐昨夜西風急，淡月朧明。); "From the high tower the moon is gone, and dusk draws near; on the plane-tree leaves, the patter of rain" (高樓月盡欲黃昏，梧桐葉上蕭蕭雨。). (9)
At three in the afternoon, the day's house hunting was done, and Mr. Xu suggested we go to Tianzifang to experience the romance of old Shanghai's lanes (longtang) together with the creative culture of a new era. We got out at the corner of Taikang Road, and Mr. Xu and the driver went back to the office. We followed the crowds to Lane 210 and entered Tianzifang.
Tianzifang was originally a street market. In 1998 an urban renewal plan brought in new cultural elements and gave it a fresh, brighter look. The surroundings of the stone-framed shikumen houses were given new life, yet the atmosphere of old Shanghai still lingers in its lanes and alleys. The neighbourhood's diverse arts and culture have led galleries, teahouses, open-air cafés, craft shops, restaurants with exotic cuisines, creative studios and antique shops to spring up like bamboo shoots after rain. This has brought vitality to local residents' lives and drawn many foreign businesspeople, expatriates and tourists.
We spent a delightful, relaxed afternoon there. Shanghai is racing ahead in the competition of creative culture, and Tianzifang is a microcosm of it.
In one of Tianzifang's alleys, we ordered some Italian food at an Italian restaurant: two plates of ravioli, a lentil salad and two cups of coffee.
Afterwards we went again to the Nanjing Road East pedestrian street to stroll through the night market. Wandering past Middle Xizang Road, we passed New World City, the Jinmen Hotel and Yongxin Plaza in turn, and suddenly saw the Park Hotel ahead of us.
Years ago, my late father had told me about this tall building, once called "the summit of Shanghai." It happened in 1933 (year 22 of the Republic), not long after my father had been admitted to the Training Group of the Army Signal Corps. One holiday, he and several classmates came to Shanghai from Zhenjiang and witnessed the opening ceremony of this building, modelled on American skyscrapers, its vertical lines soaring into the clouds. Like the Oriental Pearl Radio and TV Tower in Pudong today, the Park Hotel was then Shanghai's new landmark.
The building is now listed by Shanghai as a protected outstanding historic building. It made the name of the Hungarian architect László Hudec, who also designed the Paramount Ballroom, the Grand Theatre, Moore Memorial Church and other buildings. The late I. M. Pei, the great contemporary Chinese-American architect, was inspired to love architecture precisely by the construction of this hotel.
By coincidence, my wife and I were also married at a Park Hotel, though not in Shanghai; it was in Taipei. (10)
On the fourth day (Wednesday, October 29), house hunting was scheduled for the afternoon. The agency still sent a car to the hotel to take us on a tour of downtown Shanghai in Puxi. We passed along Donghengbin Road, Duolun Road, Changle Road and Huaihai Road and through Xintiandi. We chose to get out at Duolun Road and paused briefly at the former residences of Xia Yan, Mao Dun and Lu Xun, seeing up close the homes of several great writers of modern China. The places made me think of the men, and of their works.
In high school I read Lu Xun's A Madman's Diary and The True Story of Ah Q, which portray the sickness of Chinese society and the weaknesses of human nature with deep insight and biting satire. Rereading The True Story of Ah Q in old age, I felt that Lu Xun had been somewhat lacking in kindness.
Around eleven in the morning we reached the famous City God Temple. Founded during the Yongle reign of the Ming emperor Chengzu, the temple is six hundred years old and stands next to the bustling Yuyuan Bazaar. It consists of six halls: the Huo Guang Hall, the Hall of the God of Wealth, the Yuanchen Hall, the Cihang Hall, the Hall of the Goddess and the Cheng Huang Hall.
We wandered through the market around the temple, which had every kind of snack you could want: sweet rice-wine dumplings, five-spice beans, eight-treasure soup, xiaolongbao (soup dumplings). There were silk shops, antique shops, dragon-and-phoenix calligraphy, dough-figurine makers, paper-cutting shops, a peep show (lāyángpiān), Shanghai opera, acrobatics and more, far too much to take in.
The Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant here is famous at home and abroad, and its xiaolongbao are its signature. At noon we queued for lunch there and savoured the Nanxiang soup dumplings: thin skins, generous fillings, fresh flavour, plenty of broth and a lovely shape, enough to make your mouth water. Nanxiang xiaolongbao are now a national-level "Intangible Cultural Heritage."
To my delight, I came across a Chinese folk entertainment I had not seen for sixty-eight years, the peep show, which people south of the Yangtze call the "Western scenes." My younger son was very curious, having never seen such a novel contraption, and I explained it to him.
We sat on a long wooden bench facing a large wooden box with four holes in its front, and each of us took one to look into the box. Each hole was fitted with a magnifying lens; the inside of the box was brightly lit, and on its walls were a dozen or so coloured pictures of landscapes and figures. The operator changed them one by one, narrating and singing the verses as he went. That day the story was Pilgrimage to the West, and I can't remember how the verses went. Instead I recalled the verses of a peep-show man in the market outside the Mukden Palace in Shenyang in the winter of 1947, when I was a child: Hey, come take a look inside, come and see. Deep winter, the twelfth month, the weather is so cold; on the front hill the snow is over three feet deep, on the back hill the drifts bury a man. So cold the tiger crawls into his cave, so cold the woodcutter comes down the hill.
As he sang he beat out the rhythm on gong and drum, crisp and pleasing to the ear: "Chi bu long dong qiang, chi bu long dong qiang, chi bu long dong, qiang qiang." (11)
Following a delicious smell, we came to a snack shop. On a big table by the road lay freshly made five-spice broad beans, steaming hot and fragrant, and quite a few people had stopped to buy some. They looked just like the Zhenjiang fragrant beans my mother used to talk about.
As a child my mother moved from Rizhao in Shandong to Zhenjiang, and in those days five-spice beans were children's favourite snack; my mother was no exception. She never forgot the hawkers' cry in the Wu dialect: "Five-spice beans, the very best! Fragrant and crunchy, right here!" (五香豆子呱呱叫，又香又脆這裡找。)
In high spirits, I sang the cry over to the woman selling the beans. She broke into a smile and said: Yes, yes, yes, that's exactly how my grandfather used to call out his wares.
Each with a bag of five-spice broad beans, the three of us munched as we walked: fragrant and crunchy, the taste lingering in our mouths. To be able to taste the snack my mother loved as a child, how happy I was.
At one in the afternoon, Mr. Xu and Master Wang picked us up in front of the Old Shanghai Restaurant to visit the Marriott in Puxi and two residential towers. The tour ended at four, and we returned to our hotel in Pudong. A little later my younger son attended an event at Ford's Asia Pacific headquarters, while my wife and I strolled along the riverside promenade near the hotel, enjoying the view of the Huangpu River at dusk.
On the smooth flagstone path we enjoyed the gentle breeze; the trees swayed as if dancing, and the ripples on the river vied in beauty with the sunset clouds on the horizon, as though we were inside a painting. Strolling along, we lost track of time, and night had already fallen.
I couldn't help singing an old song by Bai Guang from fifty years before, Autumn Night (秋夜): I love the night, I love the night, and more still the autumn night with a bright moon high. A few trees whose names I do not know have already shed their yellow leaves.
My wife sang along with me, and I felt how rich life is, and how happy we were to be alive. (12)
Day Five (Thursday, October 30). By the time we had finished viewing the rooms at the last two hotels it was already midday, and Mr. Xu and the driver returned to the office. The afternoon was ours to spend as we liked, and we chose to visit the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center. Going up floor by floor, it was like sitting through a history lesson, and every floor was an astonishing feast for the eyes.
In 1842 (the 22nd year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing dynasty), China and Britain signed the unequal Treaty of Nanking, which opened five ports to trade, Guangzhou, Fuzhou, Xiamen, Ningbo and Shanghai, and allowed the British to trade, reside and set up consular offices there. As of now (2019), 177 years have passed.
No other city in the world has carried out construction on such a vast and planned scale as Shanghai. The world changes, and seas turn into mulberry fields: it took only a short two hundred years for Shanghai to grow from a small fishing village into today's international metropolis with the flavor of all nations.
We were glad that in this great metropolis, besides the unfamiliar new buildings, we could still see the lanes (longtang) in the slanting light of the setting sun. Buildings of historical value have all been preserved. The photographs comparing the old and the new on the same sites moved me most. For me, a wanderer with a deep attachment to Shanghai, returning after a long separation, they plunged me into a wave of nostalgia and brought back memories that had been fading day by day.
On the way back we took the metro and got off at Lujiazui station, then strolled to the Super Brand Mall for dinner. On the lower level there was food of every kind: exotic dishes, Shanghai's local snacks, and Taiwanese oyster omelets, pork-filled rice dumplings, braised pork rice and more. The dining area rivaled the food court in the basement of Taipei 101.
Back at the hotel, we went through the information we had gathered over four days of house-hunting, the notes we had taken and the photos we had shot, comparing and discussing them one by one. In the end we chose the Pudong Shangri-La Hotel as my younger son Anderson's home for the next three years. We phoned Mr. Xu and arranged to go to the Shangri-La the next morning. (13)
Day Six (Friday, October 31). At nine in the morning, accompanied by Mr. Xu, we arrived at the Pudong Shangri-La Hotel. Once again a rooms manager from Paris, Ms. Colette, showed us the two rooms we favored. After some comparison, we chose a full-unit view room on the 23rd floor. From the floor-to-ceiling windows of the living room, the beautiful view of the Bund and the Huangpu River on the opposite bank lay spread out before us, and the Oriental Pearl Radio and TV Tower was also in sight. The bedroom and bathroom were elegantly furnished, spacious and comfortable. The drive to his workplace was only ten minutes. Ms. Colette warmly welcomed our decision and said the hotel would provide the best service and make him feel at home.
After we finished signing the contract, the driver took us to the World Expo site and dropped us off at the China Art Museum. This building, with its distinctly Chinese cultural character, was not torn down when the Expo ended. It has been preserved permanently and has become the landmark of the Shanghai World Expo.
On May 1, 2010, the 41st World Expo opened in Shanghai and ran until October 31 of that year. It was the first time China had hosted the event in the 159 years since the first Great Exhibition (the forerunner of the World Expo) was held in Hyde Park, London, in 1851 (the first year of the Xianfeng reign of the Qing).
The Shanghai World Expo took "Better City, Better Life" as its theme, and after the Beijing Olympics it once again raised China's international standing. Dazzled by the grand spectacle I saw in the live television broadcast of the opening and in the news reports, I wrote a 112-character poem in seven-character lines to commemorate it.
The poem reads: For a hundred years we longed for the World Expo; the dream came true on Shanghai's Huangpu River. Guests from the five continents celebrate together; the eyes of the world are fixed on this spot. Proud buildings display our strength; the splendor of a flourishing age lies before our eyes. Silver blossoms dance over the river at night; under the full moon the glowing sky shines in many colors. Dazzling and brilliant up to the ninth heaven, a single line links the heavens with the world of men. The Butterfly Lovers rises from the waters of the Huangpu; celestial music floats and swirls through the night sky. After a hundred and fifty-nine years, an unprecedented spectacle opens a new era. Let our people give free rein to their pride: tonight no one in Shanghai sleeps. (14)
After touring the Expo pavilions that still stand, we returned to Pudong, strolled along Century Avenue in Lujiazui, and went into the IFC Mall (International Finance Centre). This shopping center opened for business during the Expo. It is an international fashion mall of real quality, with four floors above ground and two below, a central atrium open all the way up, and eye-catching carved art and decorations on the walls. Almost every world-famous boutique brand has a presence here, making it a fine place for both sightseeing and shopping.
Day Seven (Saturday, November 1). In the morning we first visited my mother's younger sister, my second maternal aunt, and her family. I had parted from her in Qingdao in 1949, and we had not seen each other for 65 years. In the afternoon we visited three younger male cousins and one younger female cousin on my father's side, and my third aunt (my father's brother's wife). Because we had kept in touch by overseas telephone for several years and knew one another's voices, we did not feel like strangers when we met.
We listened to each other as each told the stories of death and separation. The tragedy of an era in which the two sides of the Strait were governed apart left two generations on both sides with wounds they bore in silence. At this meeting there was no grief, only gratitude. Heaven had granted us such a wonderful chance, and may Heaven bless every family.
On Sunday, November 2, 2014, our Journey to the Homeland: Shanghai came to an end. At one in the afternoon we went to Hongqiao Airport and flew to Taipei. My younger son still had two days of meetings in Shanghai; on November 5 he would fly back to Detroit to prepare for his new post. (15, end of this part)
Essay 2: Italy
A Thanksgiving Journey
In October 2014, the Ford Motor Company, where my younger son Anderson works, posted him to Shanghai. My wife and I took the opportunity of his trip there to look for a place to live, and made our own Journey to the Homeland: Shanghai. It was my reunion with Shanghai, 65 years after I left it in 1949.
My younger son's new post was to take effect on Monday, December 8. On the Saturday before Thanksgiving he came home from Detroit to our house in Los Angeles. The company had arranged it deliberately so that he could relax before taking up the post, with a long Thanksgiving holiday lasting until he started.
To make full use of this holiday, he and his elder brother Anthony drew up an itinerary for a trip to Italy. Booking flights, hotels and high-speed train tickets, choosing historic sites and sights, learning about the history and culture, and on and on: they turned it all into an impressive 12-page itinerary, which they called "Italy: A Thanksgiving Journey."
[November 23
Sunday]
It was a bright, sunny day, and the whole family got up at five. At 11:30 a.m. we took a United Airlines flight from Los Angeles via San Francisco, arriving at Frankfurt Airport (FRA) in Germany at 9:10 a.m. local time the next day. The flight from San Francisco to Frankfurt took 9 hours and 45 minutes; by then it was already ten minutes past midnight on the 24th, Los Angeles time. (1)
[November 24
Monday]
We stayed at Frankfurt Airport for about two and a half hours, and close to noon we changed to a Lufthansa flight to Rome (FCO), arriving at two in the afternoon. Comparing the two airports, FRA and FCO, Rome's Leonardo da Vinci Airport looked much older.
Leaving the airport and walking about three minutes to the right, we reached the taxi and bus terminal. We chose to take the Terra ision tourist bus into the city, at 5 euros per person; a taxi costs 80 euros a trip, however many passengers there are. The bus runs once an hour and is comfortable and smooth. After about an hour's ride we arrived at the central station in the center of Rome.
From the bus it was about a ten-minute walk to the Hotel Rex, where we were staying. This hotel, built in 1904, has an elevator from the 1920s connecting its four floors. It sits in a quiet side street and is very convenient for getting around. Its delicate, delicious breakfast is what draws guests to stay.
After a short rest, we hurried to catch the light before sunset and took the metro to the nearest sight, the Trevi Fountain, also called the Maiden's Fountain.
The Trevi Fountain
The first time I saw the Trevi Fountain was in the 1950s, on the big screen, in the film Roman Holiday, starring Audrey Hepburn. Seeing this exquisite piece of medieval European architecture in person that day filled us with wonder and admiration. Our Roman holiday began right here. Each of us tossed a fifty-cent euro coin into the fountain, hoping that when we come for another Roman holiday, it will be time to give thanks for our wish come true.
The Trevi Fountain is a Baroque fountain, 25.9 meters high and 19.8 meters wide. Before 1629 it was called the Fontana di Trevi. In 1730 Pope Clement XII commissioned Nicola Salvi to redesign it; construction began in 1732, took thirty years, and was completed in 1762. Its main theme is drawn from Greek mythology. Behind the fountain is the Palazzo Poli. In the center of the wall with its great Corinthian columns stands the sea god driving a chariot drawn by winged horses. On his left and right are the two goddesses of Abundance and Health, and in front of the sea god is Triton, messenger of the sea. The whole looks rather like a triumphal arch.
Facing the fountain, the small lane to the right is a pedestrian street for shopping and dining. In a little restaurant called Al picchio, more than 80 years old, we enjoyed a meal of authentic Italian pizza and pasta. After dinner, our spirits still high, we walked north to a nearby sight, the Spanish Steps. (2)
The Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps are an outdoor stairway connected to the Piazza di Spagna, with 135 stone steps. At the top, the Church of the Most Holy Trinity (Trinità dei Monti) rises solemnly into the clouds. Records of architectural sketches survive from as early as the 1580s. It was not until the early eighteenth century that the French Bourbon dynasty, using the bequest of a diplomat, funded the Vatican to build them; the work took three years and was finished in 1725.
Facing the steps is the Spanish Embassy to Italy, and the yellow-and-white building at the front right was once the residence of the English poet John Keats. The steps were also a filming location for the classic films Roman Holiday, The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone and Besieged.
By the time we arrived it was already dark, but the crowds of tourists had not thinned. We sat on the stone steps and enjoyed this enchanting late-autumn night in Rome. After lingering for half an hour, we decided, while our spirits were high, to visit the Vatican by night, and hurried to catch the metro to St. Peter's Square.
The Vatican
The Vatican, also called the Holy See, lies northwest of Rome, on the west bank of the Tiber, on Vatican Hill. It is the spiritual stronghold and political center of the Catholic Church worldwide. With an area of only 0.5 square kilometers, it is the smallest country in the world. It is surrounded by high stone walls, and its main building is St. Peter's Basilica. To the right as you face the basilica is the Apostolic Palace, where the Pope lives and his officials work. The palace also houses museums, a library, an art gallery and the famous Sistine Chapel, whose walls and ceiling bear the world-renowned frescoes painted by the great master Michelangelo.
Directly in front of St. Peter's Basilica is St. Peter's Square, which can hold sixty thousand people. To the left as you face the basilica stands a bronze statue of St. Peter, the apostle of Jesus, holding the "Keys of the Kingdom of Heaven," which govern the judgment of life and death in the Kingdom of Heaven. To the right is the statue of another apostle, St. Paul, holding a sword, guarding the teachings of Jesus Christ and the spirit of salvation and universal love.
For a Catholic believer, to fulfill the greatest pilgrimage dream of a lifetime and stand in the square before St. Peter's Basilica is a deeply moving experience; the heart races and the blood boils.
On that tranquil night, the soft lighting brought out the basilica's resplendent gold and its solemn majesty. A feeling of gratitude welled up in the whole family.
Although the basilica's opening hours were over, we strolled and lingered in the square until late at night. Good night, Vatican; see you tomorrow. (3)
[November 25
Tuesday]
We got up at six in the morning. After breakfast we walked to the central station and took the metro to the Colosseum. In the station there was a supermarket, where we bought four ham-and-chicken sandwiches, two extra-large bottles of mineral water and some snacks. We packed them into two backpacks and took turns carrying them. This was our lunch for the day.
The Colosseum
The Colosseum is Rome's landmark building, also called the Flavian Amphitheatre, or simply the great amphitheater. It was built in 80 BC (the first year of the Yuanfeng era of Emperor Zhao of the Western Han), and during the Roman Empire it was the arena for gladiators fighting with real swords and for combat between men and beasts. It is an oval structure of stone blocks covering twenty thousand square meters, 188 meters along its long axis and 156 meters along its short axis, with walls 57 meters high, and it could hold nearly ninety thousand people. It was a great achievement in the architectural history of ancient Rome, and 2,100 years after it was built, its magnificent remains can still be seen.
Walking into the Colosseum, I imagined how, for more than two thousand years, it has weathered wind and rain and still stands firm, which is astonishing. Countless fighters shed their blood in brutal combat here and died wretched, wronged deaths, and I could not help sighing over them. After two hours here, we went on to see the nearby Arch of Constantine the Great and the ruins of the ancient Roman Forum.
Around noon we sat down on some stone steps and, like many other tourists, ate the lunch we had brought. Then we hurried on to the Vatican to visit the Vatican Museums. (4)
"The Vatican Museums"
Turning right out of the metro station, we found a straight avenue leading directly to the Vatican. The smallest country in the world is separated from Italy mostly by a stone wall 28 feet high. We walked west along the footpath beside the north wall for about ten minutes and reached the entrance of the Vatican Museums.
These world-famous museums hold the treasures collected by the popes through the ages: works of art from ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and ancient Rome through the Renaissance, including stone carvings, bronzes, utensils, oil paintings and frescoes, every one of them a rare treasure. To look at all 24 sections one by one would take at least a full day, and even then one would not necessarily understand them in depth; it would still be only a quick glance.
"The Sistine Chapel"
No one who comes to the Vatican can skip the Vatican Museums, and no one who enters the Vatican Museums can skip the Sistine Chapel. This small chapel within the Vatican is the heart of the Holy See. It is not open to the public for worship. It is where the pope meets with the College of Cardinals, and above all it is the sacred hall where a new pope is chosen when a pope dies or leaves office.
As we walked into the Sistine Chapel, we immediately felt its solemn dignity. The vault, the ceiling, the side walls and the 343 frescoes depicting figures and stories from the Old Testament fill every corner with life, surging and brilliant. These frescoes may be called the highest masterpieces in the history of world civilization, and they are the work of one man, Michelangelo (1475-1564), one of the three great masters of the Renaissance. The scene before our eyes moved us deeply.
Construction of the Sistine Chapel began in 1445, and it was completed in 1481 (the 17th year of the Chenghua reign of Emperor Xianzong of the Ming). In 1508 the pope of the day, Pope Julius II, felt that the interior was too vast and empty, and he ordered Michelangelo, already a renowned sculptor, to decorate the ceiling with paintings. At first Michelangelo refused, since painting was not his specialty, but the pope was convinced he would do it well, so he had no choice but to take on the work. No one expected that the paintings of the gifted Michelangelo would later become treasures of world art.
The paintings in the chapel fall into three parts: the vault paintings, the wall frescoes and the altar painting. Genesis is an enormous ceiling painting in which Michelangelo drew on the Bible and boldly introduced nude figures. Three of its panels, "God Creating Day and Night," "God Creating Adam," and "Adam and Eve Driven out of the Garden of Eden," fully express Michelangelo's humanist thought and raise, through painting, a hymn of praise to God.
In 1535, when he was already sixty, he was pressed by the pope to paint The Last Judgment. It took him six years, under extremely harsh working conditions, and he was left nearly lame and nearly blind. This huge painting, its subject drawn from the Bible, proclaims the law of retribution: after death the good rise to heaven and the wicked descend into hell.
God loved him and granted him ninety years of life on earth, an exceptional age for his time. In that year, 1564, the great English writer Shakespeare was born. (5)
[Wednesday, November 26]
At seven in the morning, from the dining room, I watched the street outside in a fine drizzle. Pedestrians were already bustling about. Italy has a typical Mediterranean climate, with a rainy winter and fresh, slightly damp air. The soft sound of the wind brushed past my ears, light and refreshing. This kind of weather might well follow us for the next few days of our trip.
We borrowed two umbrellas from the front desk, and the family walked to the central station and took the metro to the Vatican for the third time.
The Vatican metro station connects to a large shopping mall with every kind of goods you could want. We bought two more folding umbrellas, so that everyone had one, and strolled in the rain under our umbrellas to St. Peter's Square, to attend Pope Francis's weekly Wednesday morning meeting with the people.
After the security check we entered St. Peter's Square. Since we had registered online in advance, we were given places in the front section. By a little after nine, I estimated that more than ten thousand people had poured into the square. You could tell where visitors came from by the national flags they held, and the largest group was from Latin America. To my joy, on the big screen I saw a Republic of China flag waving, as well as a five-star red flag.
A fine rain was falling, and the umbrellas of every color all over the square added to the joyful, lively mood.
At 9:30 Pope Francis, in white vestments, a white skullcap and a brown rosary, rode in his own vehicle behind a Vatican Television camera car. He came out from the right side of St. Peter's Basilica and along the driveway into the crowd, waving, while cheers rose on every side without end. All along the way he stopped now and then to kiss children.
A group of the faithful from South America called out the Pope's given name, "Francisco! Francisco!", expressing their most heartfelt affection for this elder from their own homeland of Argentina.
Wondrously, at the very moment the Pope appeared, the rain stopped. I am a Catholic, and I firmly believe this was one of God's mysteries.
The Pope rode for about 20 minutes, and from the left side of the square he reached the platform built in front of St. Peter's Basilica, facing the crowd. First the master of ceremonies gave an introduction, and then the Pope offered his words of blessing. It was exactly ten o'clock, and God's mystery appeared once again: the dark clouds parted, sunshine flooded the whole square, and the crowd cheered once more. I do not know whether such a scene happens every time, but at this "Meeting with the Pope," everyone present witnessed it.
The Pope spoke first in English and then in Italian, praying for world peace and for freedom from war, poverty and hunger, that the radiance of the Holy Spirit would light up every family and that the true light of happiness would fill the body and soul of believers. We felt a powerful loving kindness, like a gentle breeze, and our hearts were full of gratitude. This was the greatest gift of our pilgrimage.
Worshipping at St. Peter's Basilica was the highlight of our itinerary, and there were still two hours before it opened at one in the afternoon. Each holding an umbrella, we strolled along the avenue of embassies directly in front of the square, the Via Della Conciliazione. On the roof of one building we saw a Blue Sky, White Sun and Wholly Red Earth flag fluttering in the wind and rain. This was the Republic of China's embassy to the Holy See, the ROC's only diplomatic ally in Europe. We took a photograph in front of the embassy to capture that moment, and we prayed devoutly that the Holy Spirit would protect our long-suffering country. (6)
"Castel Sant'Angelo"
Continuing along the Via Della Conciliazione for about ten minutes, we came to Castel Sant'Angelo. Built between AD 123 and 139 under Hadrian of the Roman Empire, it once served as a fortress against invasions by the Visigoths and Ostrogoths. Today it is a museum open to the public.
Directly facing the castle entrance is Rome's most magnificent stone arch bridge spanning the Tiber, the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele. On the bridge stand 12 finely carved statues of angels, set off by old-fashioned street lamps, a stunning sight.
Before one in the afternoon we returned to St. Peter's Square. We were startled to see the line of people waiting to enter St. Peter's Basilica for worship winding on for at least three hundred meters, and we hurried to join it. Before long, when we looked back, the line behind us had grown long again.
"St. Peter's Basilica"
The line moved slowly forward in the drizzle, and everyone waited patiently and joyfully. After 90 minutes it was our turn to enter. We moved forward in an orderly way along the designated route. Inside, the basilica was solemn and hushed: we saw only people whispering to one another and heard only soft footsteps. Consulting the materials in our hands, we looked carefully at everything with grateful hearts. The holy place we had long dreamed of seeing was right before our eyes.
St. Peter's Basilica is also called the Basilica of Saint Peter or the Vatican Basilica. The earliest basilica was built in AD 316 (the 4th year of the Jianxing era of Emperor Min of the Western Jin) and took thirty years to complete. Funded by Constantine the Great, it was a basilica-style building in the shape of a Latin cross, symbolizing Jesus Christ taking on the sins of all people and being nailed to the cross. (7)
In 1503, some 1,250 years later, Pope Julius II decided to rebuild it because it had become badly dilapidated. Work began on April 18, 1506. While keeping the original form, it added architectural elements of the Renaissance. After 120 years, on November 18, 1626 (the 6th year of the Tianqi reign of Emperor Xizong of the Ming), a grand ceremony of consecration was held and it was formally opened. This is today's St. Peter's Basilica, the largest church in the world. It covers 23,000 square meters, and at its center rises a dome 42 meters in diameter, its top 138 meters high. The interior is adorned with splendid frescoes and sculptures of the High Renaissance. Michelangelo, Raphael (1483-1520) and other masters left world-famous, immortal masterpieces here, which fully embody the essence of Renaissance and Baroque art.
The basilica's central altar stands directly above the tomb of Saint Peter on the level below, so one could say the basilica was built on the place where Saint Peter was martyred. Since 1870 (the 9th year of the Tongzhi reign of the Qing), it has been the place for papal inaugurations, the Christmas midnight Mass each year, and major services.
To the right of the altar is Michelangelo's marble sculpture, the Pietà, and on the wall behind it stands a huge carved stone Holy Cross. The radiance of the Blessed Mother's love seems to descend from the highest heaven.
Standing before the Pietà, we gazed at the Blessed Mother and Jesus. Like a child who had run away from home, suffered, gone hungry and met every kind of hardship, and then returned to his mother's arms, I was so moved that it was a long time before I could calm down. I led my family in praying a rosary, asking the Blessed Mother and Jesus for their blessing and protection.
It was four in the afternoon when we left the basilica. Passing through the Piazza del Popolo, we visited the Spanish Steps once more. In the evening we went shopping near the central station and bought high-speed rail tickets to Naples, for our trip to the island of Capri the next day. (8)
[Thursday, November 27]
This was the fourth Thursday of November, Thanksgiving Day in the United States. After getting up I said my morning prayers, thanking our Lord Jesus for His great grace in keeping me safe through the night and granting me life for this day.
After breakfast we went to the central station and took the 8:14 high-speed train south to Italy's third-largest city and largest port, Napoli, also called Naples.
Besides a dense network of highways, Italy has high-speed railways linking all its major cities, some state-run and some private. The ride is smooth and comfortable, fast and convenient. From Rome to Naples is 240 kilometers, about two and a half hours by train. We passed through the level green fields of the west, now and then glimpsing the Apennines in the distance, while the vineyards, olive groves and lemon orchards close to the tracks lay spread out before our eyes. The ridges and ditches between the fields and the winding roads were laid out in perfect order. The farmhouses beside the woods and streams looked peaceful and serene, giving a feeling of being apart from the world, alone and lost in meditation.
"Capri"
At 10:40 a.m. the train pulled in at the platform exactly on time. Naples station is designed much like Rome's, with a spacious waiting hall that can hold at least ten thousand people. The facilities inside are modern, with rows of shops for easy shopping and small restaurants everywhere.
Less than two minutes to the left outside the station is the taxi stand. The family got into a taxi and headed straight for the Naples ferry pier.
The taxi driver was a young man of about twenty-five or twenty-six who knew a little English and, besides his native Italian, could also get by in Spanish. He talked nonstop the whole way. He complained that Italy's unemployment rate was now higher than Spain's and Greece's, and that half the country was poor. He said Naples was old and poor, with bad public order; workers and capitalists were in constant conflict, there were demonstrations of all sizes every week, and the police were run off their feet. There were more and more thieves, and street robberies were common. It was as if he were giving us a briefing on the state of the nation, and it gave us a glimpse of how candid Italians can be.
The ride should have taken twenty minutes, but a demonstration blocked the traffic and the detour took twice as long. When we got out at the pier, we paid what the meter showed. The driver had worked hard for it, and we wished him good business.
On the way the taxi passed through a slum where the walls of the houses were covered in graffiti, brightly coloured, witty in its wording and full of satire, in a raw, abstract style. It reflected the poor people's discontent with their circumstances and was probably the work of street artists. We had never expected that running into a demonstration and taking a detour would give us such an unexpected reward. (9)
Ferries to the island of Capri leave every 30 minutes, and at peak times they depart as soon as they are full. The island lies 30 nautical miles south of the port of Naples, a crossing of about 35 minutes. Visitors land at the harbour on the island's northern bay. Along the seafront street are craft shops, a bus station and small hotels, and taxi drivers move among the visitors looking for fares. Free tourist guides are available in the shops.
Capri covers 16.7 square kilometres. On the island is Monte Solaro, 258 metres above sea level, and most of the island is hilly. The town of Capri lies to the east and Anacapri to the west, with some small terraces of flat land between them. Lemons are the island's speciality, and its lemon liqueur, lemon oil and lemon sweets are famous throughout Europe.
A single-lane, two-way road winds its way around the whole island. The orange-yellow buses hold no more than 20 people when full, counting those standing. When two buses meet on the narrow road, the drivers handle them calmly and with superb skill. Neither slows down, and they pass each other with no more than half a foot to spare, a cliff on one side and a sheer drop on the other. We were both amazed and full of admiration.
We chose to go up to the town of Capri by funicular, which was a novelty for us. The station is right on the seafront street. As the car climbed, the view grew wider and wider. Below us lay the deep blue bay, with pleasure boats and small craft coming and going without pause, and the villas and mansions on the hillside were all in full view.
The town is built to follow the slope of the hill, more than a hundred metres above sea level. Its stone buildings suit the island climate and are ornate yet simple and practical. The quiet lanes and alleys, less than three metres wide, wind steeply up and down, with steps here and there, and are lined on both sides with colourful displays of fresh seasonal goods. Craft shops, jewellery shops and boutiques stand on either side of the lanes, all fairly priced, and they catch the eye of every passing visitor. (10)
After an hour in the town, we took a minibus to Anacapri in the west of the island.
This is one of Italy's well-known lemon-growing areas, with a whole range of processed lemon products sold throughout Italy and exported to the rest of Europe. The town has a lemon museum, a distillery, factories making sweets and biscuits, and small, modern hotels. Supermarkets, restaurants, banks and a post office are all there. Every house is surrounded by flowers that bloom through all four seasons, and green trees give shade everywhere. The place is so peaceful that one hardly wants to leave.
Riding up the mountain on a single-seat chairlift, one person to a chair, was a new travel experience for us. The chairlift station was a short way to the right of a small hotel. The ride up Monte Solaro, 258 metres above sea level, takes 20 minutes. The single chair looks much like a swing with armrests and a backrest, and it has a sunshade. It climbs at a gradient of 15 degrees, about 10 to 15 metres above the ground, and the ride is smooth, safe and comfortable. The chairs are about five metres apart, so you can talk to the people in front and behind. At least a hundred chairs were climbing slowly through the air, floating along at ease, while we took in mountain and sea views that were graceful, wondrous and beautiful all at once. The scenery changed constantly as we rode, bright sunshine one moment and drifting cloud and mist the next, as if we were in the Huangshan mountains of Anhui.
The summit of Monte Solaro is lofty and elegant, its green mists catching the light, with white clouds drifting slowly by. On the very top, built to follow the lie of the mountain, is a garden fit for immortals in the clouds. Old cypresses, sturdy pines and strange rocks seemed real one moment and dreamlike the next as the sea of clouds moved past. The mountain is not high, but it has an air of the immortals about it.
On the way back we took the minibus down from the town, and at the pier we ran into a tour group from Taiwan. They were staying the night so they could take a boat trip around the island the next day and enjoy the thrill of sailing through the caves in the rocks. Over many thousands of years, wind and rain have worn the great caves into the shapes of all kinds of animals, remarkably lifelike.
There is also the wonder of the Blue Grotto. Because of the cave's unusual shape, sunlight refracted through the seawater inside gives off a blue light.
We spent a wonderful, unforgettable Thanksgiving Day on Capri. At 9:15 in the evening we took the high-speed train back to Rome, and at the station we bought tickets to Venice for the next day. (11)
[Friday, November 28]
At 8:30 in the morning we went to Rome's central station. After about an hour in the waiting hall, we boarded the high-speed train for Venice, which left on time at 9:50.
The train ran north along the Apennines, passed through Florence and entered the Po Valley. After 3 hours and 50 minutes we reached Venezia Santa Lucia station.
Sitting in the comfortable, smooth-riding carriage, we gazed out at the Apennines, peak after peak, all the way. The great vineyards were full of life in the sunshine. The fields of maize, wheat and sugar beet in the Po Valley were laid out in neat order. Country roads, streams, farmhouses, clumps of trees and wooden bridges wove together into a beautiful rural landscape.
I thought back five and a half centuries and imagined the great Italians of the past, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Titian and others, travelling back and forth along this same road on horseback or by carriage, working to rescue the history and culture of Europe after they had been cut off for a thousand years by the "Dark Ages." It felt rather like walking into a time tunnel, with time and space all jumbled together. (12)
Venice, City of Water
Venice is a world-famous city on the water. It lies in northeastern Italy, facing the Adriatic Sea, and is built on sandbanks in a shallow lagoon. It is the capital of the province of Venezia.
In the 15th century, the early Italians drove more than ten thousand wooden piles close together into the mud and sand and laid foundations on top of them. They then built houses on these with brick and stone. It was a successful example of human strength taking on nature. Because there is no oxygen under the water, the piles have not easily rotted and are still sound today. The city was later extended using the same method, and it grew into the Venice of today.
The city's layout looks like a great whale swimming in the sea, which shows the ingenuity of the Italians. The main artery is the Grand Canal, which runs through the heart of the city and connects with more than 150 smaller canals criss-crossing the whole town. Boats are the only means of transport, and all kinds of vessels move to and fro along the canals and waterways.
Tourists love the classic little boat, the gondola. You sit in the boat while the gondolier rows and sings, passing under stone bridges, and you take in the old buildings on both sides of the waterways. It stirs thoughts of the distant past and is endlessly delightful.
More than four hundred stone bridges, each of a different design, link the footpaths on either side of the canals and give Venice its poetry and charm.
All along the Grand Canal, at intervals, you can see thick wooden posts standing in the water. These are mooring posts for tying up boats, and they also mark the landing places for boats coming in.
Venice has at least a hundred sights. The most famous include St Mark's Square, St Mark's Basilica, the Gallerie dell'Accademia, the Bridge of Sighs and several offshore islands, and all of them were part of our plans. (13)
St Mark's Square
At nearly two in the afternoon we came out of the station in Venice. The square in front of it faces the Grand Canal. The buildings crowded together along the water, boats of every kind moving over its surface, and the stretch of blue sky and green water made us feel relaxed and happy.
In a light drizzle we boarded a water bus heading southeast and came to the Rialto stop, at a stone bridge over the Grand Canal. Even from several hundred metres away we could see people crossing the bridge. My younger son, Anderson, held the map and checked the street signs as we walked along the canal bank. At a boat landing we turned into the alleys, which twisted and turned like a maze. In a lane only two metres wide we found our hotel, the Hotel Centauro, an old inn with 110 years of history. The building has some age to it, but the interior is modern and fully equipped. After a short rest, we hurried to St Mark's Square before sunset.
St Mark's Square is the largest stretch of flat open ground in Venice, and its rectangular design is similar to St. Peter's Square in Rome. On its east side is the famous St Mark's Basilica. Directly in front of the basilica rises a reddish-brown bell tower with a pointed spire, nearly 300 feet tall, a famous Venetian landmark.
Across the street from the square is the canal. The basilica stands on one side, and the other three sides are lined by continuous low buildings of shops. The outer walls around the square are finely carved, with a strong artistic flavour. Nearby is the Doge's Palace, and on top of a granite column that soars into the sky stands a lion with outspread wings, a magnificent sight.
The shops around the square are packed with souvenirs and small gifts, and with all kinds of glassware, finely made and beautiful, more than the eye can take in. Flocks of pigeons circled around the visitors, competing for bread and snacks. We browsed the shops in the square and visited the nearby sights, and spent a lovely, unforgettable afternoon. We had wanted to go into St Mark's Basilica to worship, but it was past opening hours, so we planned to come back on Sunday.
After dark we wandered through the lanes and alleys. Many shops in the lanes stay open until two in the morning, their neon lights still flashing, and the visitors were as eager as ever.
We stopped at the Hotel Danieli in Venice for some of Italy's finest coffee. It was far from cheap, but of course the service was first-class too. The hotel faces the Grand Canal. It was once the mansion of a wealthy Venetian merchant and was later sold and converted into a hotel. We lingered in the Venetian night to our hearts' content and did not get back to our hotel until one in the morning. (14)
[Saturday, November 29]
I got up at six this morning. I had slept only five hours, but I did not feel the least bit tired. Venice was waking up in a soft haze of mist.
After breakfast we walked to the Rialto landing and took a boat to the high-speed railway station to continue our trip with a day out in Florence.
The train left at 9:25, and after two hours and thirty-five minutes we arrived at twelve noon. On the way we passed through Bologna, a major centre of Italy's pig-farming industry, whose sausages and hams are famous all over the world.
What impressed me most was that the train had to go through a railway tunnel that took about half an hour to pass through. This tunnel, called the Vaglia tunnel, was completed in 2009. It lies north of the city of Bologna and is 18,711 metres long. It is the tunnel through which the three great cities of northern Italy, Milan (Milano), Verona and Venice (Venezia), must pass to reach Florence and Naples.
Florence
Florence lies 280 miles southwest of Venice and is the birthplace of the European Renaissance. Two great Italians of the past, Galileo and Dante, are closely linked to this city.
Galileo (1564–1642) was an Italian scientist whose achievements in astronomy, mathematics and physics have made a huge contribution to humanity. He believed that the laws of the universe could be known only through measurement, and this had a decisive influence on the European Industrial Revolution from the mid-18th century onward. Yet the foundation of his scientific thinking came from the Renaissance. He doubted everything the Church of the 16th century said about scientific knowledge, and so he devoted himself to scientific research and made astonishing discoveries.
Did Galileo ever imagine that one day, four hundred years later, people would draw on his theories of measurement and engineering to build an advanced railway tunnel in his homeland for the good of his country? (15)
In the thirteenth century Italy produced a great national poet, Dante Alighieri (1265–1321), who wrote two world-famous literary works, The Divine Comedy (神曲) and La Vita Nuova (新生).
The Divine Comedy (神曲) is a very long poem, which Dante wrote in praise of his Italian people. He worked on it for fourteen years and finished it only in the year he died, at the age of 56. La Vita Nuova (新生) tells the story of him and Beatrice, the woman he loved and revered above all others.
All the way I was lost in thought over the stories of these two works, and before I knew it the train had pulled into Florence station. It is designed in the same style as Rome's central station, with a spacious, brightly lit hall. Inside there are craft shops, a supermarket, restaurants, boutiques, a post office and a bank: everything you could need.
Outside the station the view opens wide, and the place is steeped in an ancient air. The thirteenth-century churches, the stone walls, the solid doors and windows, the old-fashioned street lamps and the quietly flowing Arno look exactly as the painter Henry Holiday depicted them. This city, which must be explored on foot, has kept its classical charm for centuries.
Wandering through the lanes and alleys, I imagined the Florentine merchant Medici, once the richest man in the world, who bought three popes with his money and made the whole castle his home. Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo were both engaged by him, and they left the city immortal sculptures.
We strolled to the Basilica of Santa Croce, known as Italy's Pantheon, the resting place of Dante, Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli and others. I could not help paying my deepest respects to these great masters, giants not only of Italy but of the whole world. (16)
Florence Cathedral (Santa Maria del Fiore)
Work on this cathedral began in 1296 (the second year of the Yuanzhen reign of Emperor Chengzong of the Yuan dynasty). Its nave is crowned by a polygonal dome 40 metres across and 52 metres high, built of marble blocks, grand, imposing and dazzling. The orange-red dome soars into the clouds and is the landmark of Florence, and the church's design became a model for church architecture around the world. Before the statue of the Virgin we put our palms together and prayed silently that the people of the world might be worthy of Christ's promised grace.
The Galleria
dell'Accademia
It was already four in the afternoon when we reached the Galleria dell'Accademia, where Michelangelo's marble statue David (大衛) is the centrepiece of the visit. There were few tourists that day, so we could study it closely.
Western scholars have offered interpretations of the David. They say he is the king of Israel spoken of in the Bible, and that contemplation is his defining trait. They also say he is a melancholy man of deep feeling, and some even say he is the embodiment of the Italian warhorse.
Standing before the David, I was deeply moved. Comparing the explanations on the big screen with the statue itself bore out what the scholars said. I marvelled at the skill of Michelangelo's chisel, which gave David life. From the eyes to the brows and lashes, from the temples to the bridge of the nose, the whole expression of the face, and indeed the tension of the whole body, reveal his melancholy, his unease and his depth.
Those large hands, out of proportion to an ordinary man's, leave room for the imagination. Did Michelangelo carve them that way on purpose, to balance the unease in David's heart? (17)
On the Arno,
the Ponte Vecchio
Dante, the last great thinker of the Italian Middle Ages and the first humanist of the Renaissance, was born 210 years before Michelangelo. As a youth he chanced to meet Beatrice, a heavenly being he had long adored, and he lived his whole life for her. They met only twice, and neither time did they speak. Out of the turmoil in his heart he wrote for Beatrice the immortal poems of La Vita Nuova, which set off the Renaissance that would later change the world.
At dusk we came to the Ponte Vecchio on the Arno. It is said to be the bridge in Dante Meeting Beatrice (但丁邂逅貝雅德麗齊), painted a hundred years ago by the Italian painter Henry Holiday. The river murmured as it flowed quietly by. Standing on the bridge, I gazed at the glowing clouds in the distance, then bowed my head in thought, and I seemed to see the scenes of Dante's prose poem La Vita Nuova.
Santa Maria Novella
By the time we reached Santa Maria Novella, the lights were just coming on. Fortunately the queue to get in was short, which left us enough time to catch the night express back to Venice. The guards warned that visitors without enough stamina should not risk the climb to the top.
Nearly six hundred stone steps climb the Romanesque-Gothic bell tower, about two hundred metres high, 120 centimetres wide at its widest and 75 at its narrowest. People going up and coming down use the same passage, the air is thin and the light dim, and the last stretch must almost be crawled. It is harder than climbing Mount Tai. My wife and I were willing but not able, and gave up the climb. The two brothers, full of energy, made it to the top, and what they told us afterwards made us green with envy.
Santa Maria Novella was built on the foundations of a ninth-century oratory of the Virgin. Work began in 1246 and was completed only in 1360, and the church was consecrated in 1420 (the eighteenth year of the Yongle reign of Emperor Chengzu of the Ming).
When Italy's forebears built this basilica of the Virgin, they thought everything through carefully. Besides taking great care over the main structure, they designed a spiral staircase of 600 stone steps, 30 centimetres each, so that climbing to the top is a test of the limits of one's strength.
Streams in the Desert (荒漠甘泉) says that if you would know Christ, you must step out of your present surroundings and let Him lead you through the wilderness and the furnace. When you have gone the whole way and stand on the balcony of the red dome, looking down over all of Florence, the view is vast, your spirit is refreshed, and the whole scene lies spread before your eyes. At that moment your heart opens wide, understanding dawns, joy increases and wisdom grows. Is this not the grace the Lord bestows on us?
After dinner we took the high-speed train north, and close to midnight, in a light rain, we were back at our hotel in Venice. (18)
Sunday, 30 November
Early in the morning the scattered showers cleared, the sun rose and the mist lifted. Boats were setting off and people bustled about, and Venice was full of life again. After breakfast we headed east along the Grand Canal and passed the Bridge of Sighs.
The Bridge of Sighs
The Bridge of Sighs was built in 1600 (the twenty-eighth year of the Wanli reign of Emperor Shenzong of the Ming). It is an enclosed arched stone bridge, dark and low inside, with two small windows on each side. It was the only passage from the courtroom to the prison.
When prisoners crossed this bridge from the courtroom to the cells, they had to stoop and bow their heads. Gazing out through the small windows at the beautiful view, lamenting that their past had vanished like smoke, they realized only then how precious freedom is, and they sighed again and again.
The nineteenth-century English poet Lord Byron (1788–1824) came to this bridge and wrote a famous poem lamenting the impermanence of life, and that is how it got its name.
St Mark's Basilica
At the hotel front desk we asked about the Sunday Mass times at St Mark's Basilica, and we chose the Mass at 10:30 in the morning.
For a Catholic to be able, in one lifetime, to worship in the Holy Land and also to attend Holy Mass in the most celebrated church in the world is God's richest favour and most loving care.
We had not been to church for a long time. In a spirit of penitence, with our arms crossed over our chests, we received the Host that the priest specially gave us, our hearts deeply stirred.
St Mark's Basilica stands on the east side of the square, joined to the Doge's Palace, and is a classic example of Byzantine architecture. The first church on the site was built in 828 AD and rebuilt in 978. The present foundations took shape in 1063, and the church was completed and consecrated in 1094 (the first year of the Shaosheng reign of Emperor Zhezong of the North Song Dynasty). Magnificent marble columns adorned with finely worked stone carvings of every kind, delicate mosaics and doors cast in bronze, combined with a Gothic structural framework, give the church an especially imposing, solemn and dignified air. (19)
Murano
After lunch we walked to the Rialto Bridge and took a water bus across the Venetian lagoon to Murano. After about 20 minutes we landed at the Colonna stop. There are nearly 20 small islands in the Venetian lagoon. Murano lies about two kilometres north of Venice and covers about 3.7 square kilometres. It is world-famous for its glassware, and glass from the island was already being exported in the fourteenth century.
Glassmaking is the main trade of the islanders. By the end of the thirteenth century they already knew how to make coloured glass using compounds of copper and cobalt. The island has a shopping street selling glass of every kind: crystal, coloured glaze, gold thread, milk-white, spiral-patterned, seven-coloured rainbow, gold-ruby mixed colours and more. There are figures, animals, flowers, vases, ornaments and everyday objects, all so exquisitely made and so lifelike that they take your breath away.
On the island's Giustinian Square there is a glass museum that shows the process and history of glassmaking, with glass from every period, going as far back as ancient Egypt. Groups of ten or more can watch glass being blown on site.
That day the winter rain in Venice fell steadily, and we did most of our sightseeing under umbrellas. The ferry back retraced the same route. The medieval buildings of the outlying islands stood row upon row, homes seemed to float on the water, and the scenery was so lovely our eyes could not take it all in.
At dusk a rainbow arched over the lagoon, where sky and water met in a single line. Back at the hotel we rested a little, and then, our enthusiasm undimmed, walked across the Rialto Bridge for a stroll along the west bank of the Grand Canal. (20)
The Rialto Bridge
The Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto) is a single-arched bridge built of marble blocks. It is one of the three great bridges spanning the Grand Canal, and the oldest of them. It was first designed in 1181 as a pontoon bridge, and it was later rebuilt twice.
The present Rialto Bridge was designed by the Italian bridge architect Antonio da Ponte. Work began in 1588 and was finished in 1591. It is in the Renaissance style, and from a distance it looks like a white elephant standing on the water. The bridge is 90 metres long, 23 metres wide and 8 metres high, and large water buses can pass beneath it. At each end there is a street of shops. The arched, sloping deck has a projecting central portico and is roofed over, so the bridge itself is a market, packed shoulder to shoulder with people and brisk with trade.
Along the outer sides of the bridge run walkways with railings. Looking out, I saw boats shuttling back and forth on the canal, old, plain stone buildings lining both banks and people coming and going: a scene of thriving, peaceful happiness. At that moment my mind was calm, my breath steady, and I felt perfectly at ease, as if I were in the book Dongjing Meng Hua Lu (東京夢華錄, Dreams of Splendour of the Eastern Capital), visiting the capital Bianjing, today's Kaifeng, and walking on the Hongqiao, the Rainbow Bridge over the Bian River. Now, as I recall those days and look back with melancholy, the past seems like a dream.
In the evening we enjoyed an authentic Italian seafood dinner at a restaurant on the canal bank. Outside the windows of the little building a light rain fell in a gentle breeze. Pleasure boats glided along the canal, neon lights shimmered on the ripples and music drifted through the air. It was like the Qinhuai River, so enchanting that we did not want to leave. (21)
Monday, 1 December
From after midnight until dawn a fine rain fell without stopping. At seven in the morning the rain let up, but the lanes were already under nearly half a foot of water, and hotels and homes were busy clearing it away. What a strange sight: Venice, the city of water, could actually flood.
We had only half a day left in Venice, as at noon we were to take the high-speed train back to Rome. At eight the rain began again. Each of us holding an umbrella, the family lingered once more over the streets of Venice. Venice in the rain is even more charming.
We came to St Mark's Square and visited St Mark's Basilica once again. To our surprise, after a single night of rain the square lay under a sheet of water, ankle-deep. A few pigeons perched on the spire of the bell tower, cooing as they looked down on the water.
We stood by the stone steps, looking out over the square and gazing at the church. Listening to the patter of the rain, lost in thought, I did not notice an elderly priest passing by. Smiling, he said to us in English, "God loves you." We were more grateful than words can say, and St Mark's Basilica, standing in the water, seemed especially holy and solemn.
This moment, this scene and this feeling brought to mind Jiang Jie's lyric to the tune Yu Meiren: "As a youth I listened to the rain upstairs in a singing house" (少年聽雨歌樓上), "in my prime I listened to the rain in a traveller's boat" (壯年聽雨客舟中), "and now I listen to the rain beneath a monk's roof, my temples already flecked with grey" (而今聽雨僧廬下，鬢已星星也). I could feel what Jiang Jie felt: "Joy and sorrow, parting and reunion, all are heartless; let the rain drip on the steps until dawn" (悲歡離合總無情，一任階前點滴到天明). It was that sigh over life, the mood of "Nothing can be done as the flowers fall; the swallows return, as if I knew them" (無可奈何花落去，似曾相識燕歸來). I shook my head to clear it. Stop thinking so much, I told myself; make good use of the time and go for a gondola ride along the canals. (22)
The Gondola
Venice, this city on the water, is crisscrossed with waterways and lanes: more than five hundred alleys and lanes, and over one hundred and fifty canals large and small. Boats travel the water lanes, and people walk the land lanes.
A world-famous little boat plies these water lanes every day: the gondola. It is the most classical in style and the most delightful way to tour the city of water. It carries six or seven passengers. The boat is 11 metres long and 1.5 metres wide, with a black hull made entirely by hand from 300 pieces of oak. The hull is strongly curved and pointed at both ends, much like the crescent moon on the fifth day of the lunar month, and it moves nimbly and lightly.
The family took a private boat along the large and small canals for two hours. The boatman poled and rowed, singing Italian folk songs at the top of his voice, as we wound among the waterways and arched bridges, looking at old buildings and houses, balconies and gardens. It felt as if we were inside a dream castle. Close to noon we hurried to the station and took the high-speed train south to Rome.
At 3:10 p.m. we walked out of Rome's central station, and after a ten-minute walk we reached the King Hotel, where we had stayed at the start of the trip. Half an hour later, making the most of our time, we strolled through old Rome.
The Fountain of the Four Rivers
Ancient monuments are scattered all over old Rome, and its long history has earned it the name "the Eternal City." Over more than two thousand years it has suffered many wars and calamities, yet its monuments still stand proud, and the grandeur of its magnificent buildings soars to the clouds, overwhelming and breathtaking. "Rome was not built in a day": only by being there can one truly feel it.
The Fountain of the Four Rivers (Fontana Del Quattro Flumi) was designed and built by the Italian architect Bernini in 1651 (the eighth year of the Shunzhi reign of the Qing emperor Shizu).
The fountain stands in the middle of the square. It draws water from an underground river and, using the principle of pressure, sends the spring water gushing out on all four sides through a black Egyptian tower about 200 feet tall. On top of the tower stands a white dove, representing the Catholic Church under heaven. The four fountains represent the waters of the world's four great rivers, which nourish all humanity: the Ganges (the Indus) of Asia, the Nile of Africa, the Danube of Europe, and the Río de la Plata (in Argentina) of South America. We stayed here for an hour before moving on. (23)
The Vittoriano
The Vittoriano, also called the Victor Emmanuel II Monument, commemorates Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy. It was designed in 1895 by the Italian architect Giuseppe Sacconi; work began in 1911 and was completed in 1935. It is built of white marble, with tall Corinthian columns, a grand staircase, and fountains spraying in all directions. A huge bronze equestrian statue of Victor Emmanuel II stands at the centre in front of the monument.
On the roofs at the left and right ends of the monument there are four two-wheeled chariots each, with the goddess Victoria standing in the middle, all sculpted in bronze. On a stepped flag platform in front of the monument flies an enormous green, white and red Italian flag, a magnificent sight.
This grand neoclassical building, 135 metres long, 40 metres deep and 70 metres high, is as famous as the Colosseum. Since its completion it has stood for 84 years (as of 2019). We stayed here for half an hour and then continued on our way.
Rome has more than 160 shrines, churches, fountains, bronze statues, stone sculptures and gardens. For the crowds of tourists, visiting every one of them is nearly impossible.
That day a steady winter rain fell on Rome. We strolled in the rain and fully savoured the extraordinary historic splendour of this ancient city.
Rome, Naples, Florence and Venice bear our footprints, and they gave us beautiful memories that we will always cherish and never forget. (24)
Tuesday, December 2
After nightfall yesterday the rain grew heavier, and this morning it still had not stopped; the weather report said an inch of rain had fallen on Rome. At 4:15 we hurried to the central station and caught the first bus to the airport at 4:40, arriving at Rome's Leonardo da Vinci International Airport at 5:30.
We had a full three hours before our flight, so we walked unhurriedly to the counter. Unexpectedly, we ran into a strike by Lufthansa pilots and staff. Our flight via Munich and Washington to Los Angeles had been cancelled. We grew anxious at once and hurried to the Lufthansa office.
Five passengers had reached the counter ahead of us, and we waited patiently to be rebooked. After an hour and a half it was our turn. The agent, a middle-aged woman, was very warm and approachable. She kept contacting the airline's partner companies, and an hour later there was finally good news.
We were put on a Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul, connecting to a direct flight to Los Angeles. The whole journey would actually get us there five hours sooner than our original Lufthansa flights.
Transfer slips in hand, we dashed with our luggage to the Turkish Airlines counter. The two boys ran fast and covered the 200 metres in under a minute. They checked the bags through, and three seconds after they got the boarding passes the computer shut down automatically. It was a very close call. My wife and I half ran, half walked, panting, and reached the security entrance only five minutes later. Twenty minutes after that we boarded the plane.
The door closed, the plane pulled away from the jet bridge and taxied to the runway. The engines roared to full power, the plane shot into the sky, and Rome slowly vanished from sight.
I couldn't help thinking of an Italian popular song from the 1960s, "Arrivederci Roma" (再見羅馬). I asked the two brothers whether they could sing it and give me the key and the words, and to my surprise they began to sing. The song has been translated and sung in many languages, but naturally Italian singers sing it best, and Claudio Villa (1926–1987) sang it with the most feeling. My wife and I sang softly along with the two brothers: there lies the legend of Rome, hung with clusters of ancient fountains; if we toss a coin, it will bring you back again. Arrivederci Roma, arrivederci Roma. (25; end of this part)
Essay 3: The Kingdom of Elephants
A Trip to Bangkok
On December 4, 2014, my younger son Anderson flew from Los Angeles via Seattle to Shanghai to take up a new post at Ford Motor Company's Asia Pacific headquarters. The following year (2015), at 12:40 p.m. on February 14, my wife and I took a United Airlines flight from Los Angeles to Shanghai. We arrived at Shanghai Pudong Airport at 6 p.m. local time on the 15th and joined our son there. Taking advantage of the long Spring Festival holiday on the mainland, we took a Shanghai Airlines flight to Bangkok at 10:35 p.m. the next evening, for a trip of six nights and seven days.
At 8 p.m. we set off for Pudong Airport, checked in, cleared security and reached the gate. But the jet bridge was being used for something else, so passengers could not board.
The airline used airport buses to carry passengers in batches to the plane, which was parked on the apron two kilometres away. Outside the temperature was 5°C, the air damp and cold, the smog heavy, and visibility only five metres.
I felt somewhat unwell, and my wife even began to show signs of asthma. After boarding we were very well looked after, and after taking our medicine we felt much better. Thanks to our son's thoughtful arrangements, we sat in business class, in the very first row. It was the first such treat for my wife and me in more than forty years.
Sitting idle on the plane for three and a half hours was also something we had never experienced before. Around 1 a.m. the next morning the fog lifted. The plane took off at 1:50, flew for four and a half hours, and arrived at Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport at 5:20 a.m. Thailand time. (1)
Besides sightseeing, the trip was also a chance to visit my wife Xiulian's cousin Youlan and her husband, and my brother-in-law (my younger sister's husband), who works at China Airlines' Thailand branch.
When we walked out of the arrivals hall, we were delighted to find that Youlan had driven out herself to meet us. We felt terribly bad about keeping her up all night. We had sent word that the weather in Shanghai was terrible and the flight delayed, that we didn't know when we would reach Bangkok, and that she should not come to meet us. Youlan's kindness moved us deeply.
In the morning light we watched the streets of Bangkok go by while listening to Youlan's commentary. Singing came softly from the car stereo: a song we had not heard in many years, "How Can I Not Love You" (怎能不愛你), sung by the American singer Joy Enriquez. It is the theme song of the Oscar-winning film Anna and the King (國王與我).
That scene and that mood filled us with even more happy expectations about the great world city of Bangkok and the beautiful country of Thailand. After about forty minutes we reached our hotel, the Rembrandt Hotel, which has an arrangement with China Airlines, and set a time to meet Youlan again. (2)
On our first day in Thailand we were in high spirits and felt no travel fatigue. Following our plan, we would first tour the Chao Phraya River, which runs through the city and is called 湄南河 (Mae Nam) in Chinese, and then browse a riverside shopping mall. After breakfast I phoned my brother-in-law Shanjun to thank him for arranging this hotel. It was quiet and elegant, spacious and comfortable, and very convenient, only a ten-minute walk from the metro station. We also arranged a time to meet. From the young woman at the front desk we learned a Thai phrase: "thank you," khob khun.
Using a Bangkok city map and a metro map, we took the SKY Train to Saphan Taksin station, got off, and walked about 300 metres to the riverside pier. (3)
This pier was originally a small ferry landing. In 1900 the Thai royal family had it rebuilt on a grand scale to meet their needs, and it is now more than a hundred years old.
We boarded the Mandarin Oriental Hotel's own ferry, a beautiful boat built in an antique style, and after about ten minutes landed at the hotel's riverside pier to enjoy the famous Mandarin Oriental English afternoon tea. The hotel grounds were lovely, with butterflies dancing and flowers scenting the air, and the open-air café was full of tourists from many countries and of every skin colour. There was every kind of drink you could want, from champagne and coffee to fine tea, as well as desserts. The sightseeing boats passing on the river were close enough to touch. We gazed at the high-rises and streets along both banks and at the green water rippling on the river. Such a beautiful scene at such a lovely hour lifted our hearts and raised our spirits.
As night fell and the lights came on, Bangkok grew lovelier the later it got. We moved on to Asiatique, the largest night market in Asia, to see it for ourselves. (4)
We boarded the Mandarin Oriental's decorated boat, went back south to the riverside pier, and walked five minutes toward Sathorn Pier to reach the Asiatique the Riverfront night market. This night market in Bangkok's old city has lost none of its charm. Its fame has spread so far that it has become a world-class tourist attraction. The Thai government replanned and rebuilt it, and it reopened to the public on a larger scale in May 2012.
The market's layout has a strong flavour of Thai culture. It is divided into ten zones, and nothing is missing: handicrafts, local products, Thai food, boutique shops, a ladyboy theatre, creative goods, clothing outlets, Thai massage, cafés, small restaurants, street stalls, and so on and so forth. Neon lights flashed in every colour without pause, and crowds surged and bustled as we wandered through one dazzling, enchanting tropical scene after another.
We chatted as we walked, about everything from the mainland's Belt and Road Initiative to Taiwan's creative industries. Taiwan's soft power could be brought in here to strengthen the local tourism business.
We also bought tickets for the Sunday night ladyboy show. On Sunday, February 22, we would visit this great night market again. (5)
Wednesday, February 18,
New Year's Eve of the Jiawu Year
To fit in with the day trip to the outskirts of Bangkok arranged by the travel agency, we got up very early today. At 6 a.m. a minivan came to the hotel and took us to the parking lot of the Bangkok tourism bureau. There we joined other tourists and changed to a mid-sized 22-seat tour bus. Shortly after seven we set off along Highway 35, following the Bay of Bangkok southwest toward the Amphawa Floating Market and the Mae Klong Railway Market.
As we passed Samut Prakan, we were struck by a vast expanse of salt fields. Set off by the sea and the sunlight, the rows of little salt hills looked brilliant and dazzling. (6)
There are as many as seven floating markets around Bangkok, all on tributaries of the Chao Phraya, forming a ribbon of homes on the water. This is why Bangkok is called "the Venice of the East." The tour bus reached the Amphawa Floating Market close to nine.
At a private pier we boarded a boat with a canvas sunshade that could seat more than twenty people, for a ninety-minute tour of the floating market and the homes on the water.
The floating market is about 500 metres long. Boats of every kind, size and purpose come and go on the narrow river. The most eye-catching are the small vending boats, each rowed single-handed by a woman in a flat-topped straw hat. The boats are laden with colourful fruits, vegetables and flowers, and they pull up alongside the tour boats to sell their goods.
What amazed us was how the boats, big and small, gave way to one another and moved freely with less than a foot between them.
The boat then entered the area of homes on the water. Baskets of flowers of every kind hung in front of the doors and windows of the houses on both banks. Such a lovely, peaceful scene was deeply refreshing. The boat returned to its starting point, and we continued on to the railway market. (7)
After leaving the floating market, the bus soon reached the small town of Mae Klong, about 100 kilometres southwest of Bangkok. Here one can see the world's only railway market, where trains pass right through the stalls.
Before the train enters the market, the stalls occupy the railbed, pressed right up against both sides of the track. The space between the two rails, just 1.2 metres, serves as the footpath.
The stalls are a special kind, each like a very small truck that can be moved about freely.
When the train slowly sounds its whistle and rolls into the market, the vendors calmly pull their stalls back from their selling positions within a few seconds. Once the train has passed, they push them back into place and carry on doing business.
There are only four trains a day, so there are eight chances to see the spectacle as they come and go. The trains are often late, so you have to claim a spot in advance and wait. Taking photographs as a keepsake is a must, but you must watch out for your safety.
This railway line has a history of nearly a hundred years. Because it runs through a traditional market and makes such a remarkable sight, it was never torn up but has been preserved, and it is now a world-famous tourist attraction.
The stalls sell everything you could want: vegetables, fruit, seafood, meat, household goods and dried local produce, all at fair prices.
We spent nearly two hours at the railway market and in the small town of Mae Klong, then returned to Bangkok. (8)
We got back to Bangkok a little after two in the afternoon. Two hours later my brother-in-law Shanjun came to the hotel, and we had a very pleasant talk about what we had seen during our two days of sightseeing in Bangkok. Comparing the four countries of Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand, Taiwanese tourists choose Thailand first. Besides Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket are also very good choices. China Airlines has a branch office in Bangkok and representative offices in Chiang Mai and Phuket.
In the evening the three of us were invited to Youlan's home to share the New Year's Eve dinner. It is a self-contained estate of about an acre on the outskirts of Bangkok, with swaying green trees and fragrant flowers. The house is spacious and has a study of novel design, which is also where Youlan's husband, Mr. Xu Wei'an, sits in meditation. We lingered there a long while, listening to Mr. Xu talk about his daily life. It was like basking in a spring breeze, and we came away enlightened and uplifted.
There were also several community leaders living in Thailand whom we were meeting for the first time. Among them was Mr. Xiao, who has been in business in Thailand for nearly 60 years; his wife, Elder Sister Wu, comes from Taiwan.
Among the many dishes of the lavish New Year's Eve feast spread across a large table was a steamed shad, delicate, refreshing and wonderfully fragrant. Youlan had gone to the market herself that morning to choose it and had cooked it with her own hands. Everyone ate with great relish and could not stop praising it. Our spirits never flagged, and we talked deep into the night until midnight. Youlan insisted on driving us back to the hotel herself. (9)
[Thursday, February 19
The first day of the first lunar month of the yiwei year]
At nine in the morning we took the metro to Saphan Taksin station, then changed to a ferry heading north up the Chao Phraya River. After a trip of about 20 minutes we went ashore at the Grand Palace pier and toured the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the other halls within the palace.
The Grand Palace was built in 1782 (the 47th year of Emperor Qianlong's reign in the Qing dynasty) and covers 218,000 square metres. The palace walls surrounding the whole complex run for 1,900 metres, and there are as many as 34 palace buildings, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha among them. Compare this with the Forbidden City, home to 24 emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties, completed in the fourth year of the Yongle reign of the Ming emperor Chengzu (1406), covering 150,000 square metres, with more than 70 halls large and small. In their great halls, thrones, corner towers, galleries, palace walls, basic structure and cultural character, each has its own merits.
We bought our tickets and entered through the Wiset Chaisri Gate. The grounds are so vast that it would be quite impossible to visit every palace and hall one by one in a single day, so we could only choose what to see. (10)
Consulting the visitors' map, we trimmed our itinerary from 35 sights to 10.
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha
As soon as we entered the palace we felt its majestic grandeur. To the left of a great lawn of emerald green, in the northwest corner of the Grand Palace, stands the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, a complex unto itself, surrounded on all sides by galleries.
Inside the temple we saw a large terrace, on which stand three connected golden monuments. One of them, the Phra Si Rattana Chedi, enshrines relics of the Buddha.
The middle one is the scripture library, built in the time of King Rama I; the place where the scriptures are kept is made of pure gold leaf.
Next comes a cross-shaped building 40 metres high, with a roof of four tiers of eaves: the Prasat Phra Thep Bidon. At each of the two front corners of this hall stands one of the twin golden chedis that King Rama I built in memory of his royal father and mother.
Leaving the terrace, we went on to the main hall, in which is enshrined the Emerald Buddha, carved from a single block of jade, 48 centimetres across at the knees and 66 centimetres high.
On either side in front of the Emerald Buddha's throne stands a royal Buddha image, cast by King Rama III in memory of King Rama I and King Rama II. The images are cast in bronze and adorned with gold, each using 38 kilograms of gold.
The main hall has a roof of three tiers of eaves, decorated with elements such as dragon heads, dragon scales and phoenix tails, and its outer walls are decorated with coloured glass.
Coming out of the main hall, we looked around the galleries of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. There are 178 murals in all, every one from the time of King Rama I, depicting mythological stories based on works of Indian literature.
After leaving the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, we went on to Boromphiman Hall. (11)
Boromphiman Hall
Boromphiman Hall is one of the main palaces in the Siwalai Garden area. A European-style building, it was built in 1903 in the time of King Rama V as the residence of the crown prince, and is also a place for receiving state guests. Inside are murals of the Indian Vedic gods, and beneath each painting is written a principle of the "Ten Virtues of the King". We then headed west and came to the Maha Monthien group, among the earliest buildings of the Grand Palace.
The Maha Monthien Group
This group consists of three palace halls: Amarin Winitchai Hall, Phaisan Thaksin Hall and Chakraphat Phiman Hall. Amarin Winitchai Hall was built in 1785 in the time of King Rama I. It was originally where the king held court and heard state affairs; it is now the hall used for major national ceremonies.
South of Amarin Winitchai Hall is Phaisan Thaksin Hall, in which is enshrined an image of the "Guardian Spirit of Siam" cast in gold. The hall holds two thrones on which kings are crowned, and the Guardian Spirit of Siam is enshrined midway between the two thrones.
Going further south, we came to Chakraphat Phiman Hall, once the living quarters of Kings Rama I, II and III. On both sides of its gate are carved the emblems of the various government ministries: the lion emblem of the Ministry of the Interior, the elephant-headed lion emblem of the Ministry of National Defense, the emblem of a deity holding a lotus for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and so on. We found the designs of these emblems very interesting. It made us wonder whether the ministries and commissions of the Executive Yuan of the Republic of China could also design a series of emblems showcasing the totems of Chinese culture. (12)
Leaving Chakraphat Phiman Hall, we walked northwest and came to the Chakri Maha Prasat.
Chakri Maha Prasat
The largest royal hall in the Grand Palace, it was completed in 1876 in the time of King Rama V. "Chakri" carries the meanings of the divine discus and of the monarch, and it is also the name of the Bangkok dynasty. Its basic structure is in the architectural style of Queen Victoria's era, topped by three square spires in the traditional Thai style.
The Chakri Maha Prasat has a central, an eastern and a western wing. The central wing has three storeys: the top floor is where the ashes of the royal family through the generations are enshrined, the second floor is where the King of Thailand receives state guests, and the ground floor is the headquarters of the Royal Guard.
The eastern wing also has three storeys: the top floor is an exhibition room for artworks and antiques collected by royal relatives through the generations, the middle floor is the state guest hall, and the ground floor is an ordinary reception room.
The top floor of the western wing enshrines the ashes of queens and princes through the generations. The middle floor is the reception room where the queen grants audiences to her subjects, and the ground floor is a library.
Dusit Maha Prasat
Leaving the Chakri Maha Prasat and heading further west, we came to the Dusit Maha Prasat (Dusit Hall), a palace in the traditional Thai style. "Dusit" is an Indian word, rendered in the Chinese Buddhist scriptures as Doushuaituo (兜率陀). The hall is cross-shaped with a roof of four tiers of eaves, and below the spire is an image of the Garuda seizing a dragon, from an Indian legend. Inside the hall a royal bed of King Rama I is also on display.
The Dusit Maha Prasat also serves as the place where funeral rites are held for kings, queens, queen mothers and others, and other important ceremonies, such as the anniversary of the king's coronation, are held here as well.
We spent five hours on a selective tour of the Grand Palace, seeing it in passing like flowers glimpsed from horseback, and came away with a general understanding of this constitutional monarchy, the "Land of the Thai People".
When we came out of the west gate of the Grand Palace it was already three in the afternoon. We saw several of the hired vehicles called "TukTuk" and, out of curiosity, got into one for a tour of the city. (13)
Tuk-tuks
Bangkok has a highly distinctive form of transport, the TukTuk, or tuk-tuk: a heavy motorcycle converted into an electric three-wheeler. It takes its name from the "tuk-tuk" noise it makes as it goes, and it can carry at most four passengers. Local people seldom ride in them, but tourists love them, and the fares are steep, usually three times a taxi fare. You must agree on the price before getting in, or you will be fleeced.
We rode in our tuk-tuk without being bothered by the noise; on the contrary, we enjoyed a rare taste of the exotic as we roamed the streets of Bangkok.
The Erawan Shrine
The tuk-tuk set out from the Grand Palace, passed through Chinatown at Hua Lamphong, and reached Sala Daeng. There we changed to the BTS Skytrain and rode from station S2 to station E1 (Chit Lom). Right outside the station is the Erawan Shrine, a sight in the centre of Bangkok crowded with visitors, with luxury hotels and shopping centres nearby.
The Erawan Shrine is not housed in a temple but stands at an intersection, and every day it draws close to ten thousand visitors who come to worship.
Half a year later, on August 17, the Erawan Shrine was the scene of the deadliest terrorist attack in Thai history: 22 people were killed and more than a hundred injured, some seriously, among them four tourists from China. (14)
Leaving the Erawan Shrine, we took the BTS back to the hotel. After a short rest we went to a restaurant near Sala Daeng, where at my brother-in-law's invitation we attended the six o'clock New Year gathering of the China Airlines Bangkok branch. Some 60 people were there, including staff and their families, pilots and flight attendants, all in festive spirits, exchanging good wishes and celebrating the Spring Festival together. My brother-in-law, as head of this big family, even handed out lucky red envelopes to every child, and everyone spent a very happy New Year evening. My younger sister was in Taipei at the time, spending the New Year with the family; had she been there too, she would surely have added still more to the joyful mood.
On our way back to the hotel after the gathering, at the Sala Daeng Skytrain station, we saw a street performer standing in a corner by a wall. He looked as if he came from mainland China, or perhaps Taiwan. In the small tin in front of him lay a few small-denomination Thai baht notes.
The performer was playing on his violin Dreams Behind the Curtain (一簾幽夢), composed by Liu Chia-chang with lyrics by Chiung Yao, a soft murmur like a flowing stream, lilting and moving. On this foreign night, the first day of the lunar New Year, it sounded poignant, sad and beautiful. (15)
[Friday, February 20
The second day of the first lunar month of the yiwei year]
We got up a little late this morning. After breakfast we went to Big C, a supermarket near the hotel, to buy the mineral water we needed to drink every day. This supermarket has a chain of stores in Bangkok, much like RT-Mart and Carrefour in Taiwan.
At ten in the morning, Youlan and her husband, Mr. Xu Wei'an, came to the hotel and invited us on a day trip to Phetchaburi (Phet Buri) and the sights around it.
Mr. Xu drove himself, heading southwest from Bangkok along the coast. Everywhere we went there was blue sea and blue sky; looking far out over the Bay of Bangkok, the water was calm, with an occasional boat passing by. Dense coconut palms swayed along the shore, a true picture of the subtropical south.
The five of us went into a beachside seafood restaurant, where Mr. Xu ordered several dishes of authentic Thai seafood. The famous Thai prawns were every one of them large and plump, fragrant, tender and succulent, each half a foot long. We washed them down with Thai Singha beer, rated the best in Asia by an American beverage tasting institute. On this trip to Thailand we were lucky enough to enjoy a rare seafood feast.
We continued on toward Phetchaburi. Phetchaburi, also called Phet Buri, covers 6,200 square kilometres, one sixth the size of Taiwan. It is an ancient city with a long history in central Thailand. In the west, mountains covered in forest form the natural boundary between Thailand and Burma; in the east there is an 80-kilometre coastline of rare and beautiful scenery. There are as many as ten sights, too many to visit one by one in a short time, so we could only choose one or two of them. (16)
On the way back we headed northeast along Cha-am beach, passing through the Phra Nakhon Khiri Historical Park in the district directly administered by Phetchaburi. Built in 1860 as a palace retreat for King Rama IV, the park preserves both its natural setting and its landscaped grounds. Everywhere we went was lush and green, and our hearts felt free and happy. We came to a peacock garden, and what made us jump for joy was that twice we saw a pair of peacocks spreading their tails, something none of the five of us had ever seen before.
Next we reached Khao Takiab, near a small fishing village. The hill is not high, and in the woods and along the road there were monkeys of every size, idling about at their leisure and paying the tourists no attention at all.
There were not many monkeys on this little hill at first, but tourists kept feeding them bananas, peanuts, biscuits and even instant noodles. With no worries about finding food, they bred more and more, and every monkey, old or young, was plump, comical and lovable. But high blood pressure and diabetes came along with it, and their lives became a good deal shorter. (17)
It was already five in the afternoon when we got back to Bangkok. Wei'an (位安) and his wife dropped us at our hotel, and we still had plenty of time. We strolled along the nearby streets and saw a travel agency every few steps, with huge posters for tours of Thailand's sights pasted in their windows. With a scene like that, competition had to be fierce, so out of curiosity we went in to find out more.
Comparing prices, we found to our surprise that the fares and other costs were lower by nearly half than at the hotel's contracted travel agency. We signed up and paid on the spot for a day trip to Kanchanaburi the next day.
Afterwards we took the BTS Skytrain just one stop to the Nana night market. Bangkok's nights grow more beautiful the later it gets, and the lively atmosphere of the night market far surpassed Taipei's. The stalls were laid out in neat, clean rows, everything in good order, and we saw no police on patrol. Even when no sale was made, everyone stayed friendly, and the vendors smiled broadly and returned a bow with palms pressed together. Compared with Taiwanese society today, Taiwan falls far short. (18)
[Saturday, February 21
The third day of the first lunar month of the yiwei year]
At 6:30 in the morning a medium-sized 26-seat tour bus came to the hotel to pick us up. There were already five tourists on board, and by the last stop the bus was full. At about seven o'clock it set off for Kanchanaburi, 128 kilometres northwest of Bangkok. Our guide was a young ethnic Chinese man who spoke English, Mr. Ah Hao. As the bus drove along, Ah Hao explained the itinerary, and the passengers each introduced themselves.
Sitting next to us was an elderly Norwegian couple who spoke standard English and Spanish, and we chatted happily all the way.
Kanchanaburi covers 19,483 square kilometres, one twenty-sixth of Thailand's area. After Nakhon Ratchasima Province and Chiang Mai Province, it is Thailand's third-largest province, with a population of 734,000. It borders Burma to the west and has Thailand's largest rainforest. The whole province is thick with high mountains, forests, waterfalls and rivers, and in the north the mountains rise and fall in long, winding ranges, a beautiful landscape with an unspoiled, natural character. Its famous sights include the Bridge on the River Kwai, the war museum and the Death Railway. (19)
During the Second World War, Thailand and Burma each had a railway. One ran north from Bangkok along the Chao Phraya River to Kanchanaburi; the other ran from Rangoon through Mawlamyine (Moulmein) and across the Salween River to Thanbyuzayat, near the Thai border.
Joining the two railways would create a shortcut for overland transport. Military supplies shipped from the countries of Indochina would no longer have to go around Singapore and through the Strait of Malacca to reach Rangoon, which would save at least ten days.
The shortest distance between the two railways lay within Kanchanaburi in Thailand. Surveys of the mountains and terrain showed that the route needing the least time and labour was at least 400 kilometres long, and that a large bridge would have to be built across the Kwai Yai River, which is at least 200 metres wide. The Japanese army then fighting in South Asia assessed the situation and judged that building this railway had strategic value. (20)
"The Death Railway"
In the early 20th century, Britain had surveyed whether this railway could be built, but gave up because the route was so dangerous and the work so enormous.
Pressed by the demands of the Second World War, Japan mobilized 200,000 prisoners of war and conscripted 250,000 labourers from Thailand, Burma, Malaya, China and other countries, and in early June 1942 work began in Thailand and Burma at the same time. The Japanese army drove the Allied prisoners and labourers to work day and night. With too little food and water, exhaustion, malnutrition, a lack of medicine and filthy conditions, as many as 110,000 people died of overwork, starvation and disease, or by their own hand. On average, one person died a wrongful death for every five steps of track, which is why the line is called the "Death Railway." The work was expected to take six years but was finished in 17 months, on October 17, 1943. (21)
Our group stopped for half an hour at the entrance to a cemetery for Allied war dead, less than five kilometres south of the Bridge on the River Kwai.
Buried in this cemetery are 6,982 Allied servicemen who died after being forced to build the railway, among them British, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and Dutch soldiers. The headstones stand in neat rows, the grounds are quiet and secluded, with flowers and trees well spaced, and there are staff to look after them. We stayed outside the grounds and paid silent tribute to these martyrs who gave their lives for their countries.
The ethnic Chinese owner of a general store across the street from the cemetery told us that almost every week people come to lay flowers, pray silently and remember the dead, and he believes they are descendants of the fallen. (22)
"The War Museum"
Continuing on, we came to a small town in Tongpailian County (通拍蓮縣), which borders Burma. A large river called the Kwai flows through the town.
The famous Bridge on the River Kwai (River Kwai Bridge) and the war museum (Jeath war museum) are both within less than a kilometre of each other.
The tour bus pulled up beside Maenamk Wai Road, and as soon as we got off we saw the museum entrance.
In the lane at the entrance stood a steam locomotive that once ran on the Death Railway, with explanations on the wall in English and in traditional Chinese characters. The flags of the Allied nations of the Second World War were displayed above it, and the Republic of China's flag, the Blue Sky, White Sun and Wholly Red Earth, stood out clearly.
Inside, the museum is divided into many sections: railway-building tools, labourers' huts and tents, cooking utensils, a detention cell, dental instruments, instruments of torture and more. Most precious of all are the photographs taken while the prisoners were building the railway and the Bridge on the River Kwai.
A ticket costs 40 baht, about 1.50 US dollars. Sadly, the inside was shabby and badly neglected, and there were even hawkers and a general store inside the museum. We stayed less than an hour, and our next stop was the Bridge on the River Kwai. (23)
"The Bridge on the River Kwai"
The Bridge on the River Kwai is only a ten-minute walk from the war museum. Of all the bridges on the Death Railway, it has the longest span, was the hardest to build, cost the most lives among the prisoners and labourers during construction, and was bombed again and again by the Allies. It was originally a wooden bridge, begun in November 1942 and finished in September 1943, with building materials brought from Sumatra in Indonesia. It was later reinforced with stone piers and steel, and steel railings were added to keep pedestrians safe. It is now a tourist attraction, and twice a day one of the old steam trains, pulling two carriages, crosses the bridge slowly at ten kilometres an hour. We arrived at just the right moment and witnessed this marvellous sight.
In 1957 a film called The Bridge on the River Kwai (桂河大橋), set against the story of British prisoners of war treated inhumanely by the Japanese army while building the bridge, opened across Britain on October 2 and won some of the highest praise in the history of British cinema. The following year, 1958, the film won seven awards at the 30th Academy Awards, including Best Picture and Best Director.
The film was shown in Taiwan that same year and caused a sensation. The director David Lean, the actors Alec Guinness, William Holden and Sessue Hayakawa, and that clear, ringing whistled tune, the "Colonel Bogey March," left a deep impression on audiences. (24)
"The Elephant Village"
Leaving the Bridge on the River Kwai, the bus headed south to a riverbank landing on the Kwai in the north of Sai Yok District (柿約縣), where we changed to bamboo rafts. We sat on bamboo chairs while the boatmen poled and paddled us downstream, enjoying the lovely scenery on both banks. We had never done anything like it before, and it was wonderfully refreshing. The raft drifted slowly along, and after about 15 minutes it pulled up at an elephant village on the far bank, and we went ashore. Riding an elephant was one of the activities on this tour.
Many provinces and districts in Thailand have elephant villages. And not only Thailand: Burma, Cambodia and Laos all have elephant villages too.
In India the elephant is regarded as sacred, and it was once the mount of the Buddha. In the Buddhist cultures of South and Southeast Asia, the elephant holds great cultural significance.
In the 1980s, countries everywhere sprang up like bamboo shoots after rain in developing tourism, and tame elephants were used as rides for tourists' amusement. News of elephants dropping dead suddenly from exhaustion was heard from time to time.
In the 21st century, awareness of animal protection has grown, and more and more organizations and individuals object to using captive animals for commercial purposes.
The elephant village before us had some twenty-odd elephants, old and young. The little ones are forced to join the work at only three years old.
We queued up, two people to each elephant. When our turn came, we got a baby elephant, so Xiulian and her son Anderson chose to ride separately, to lighten the little elephant's load. Anderson gently patted its back and said, "Baby, we can go now." The little elephant looked at this tourist with a curious and grateful look in its eyes and kissed Anderson with its trunk. Elephants are intelligent, sensitive creatures, and this scene moved us. (25)
"The Tourist Railway"
In the months before the Second World War ended, the Burma–Thailand Death Railway had already been bombed to pieces by the Allies. After the war, the operation and management of the Thai section was handed over to the Thai government. From April 1949 it was gradually repaired, yet only a third of the line is in use.
Today, counting from the terminus at Nam Tok, only 50 kilometres of the line are in service. It no longer serves for transport, but it has become a tourist railway.
We left the elephant village and took the bamboo rafts back to the original landing. The bus took us to Nam Tok station for a ride on a steam train. The trip covers seven stations in all, 5 to 8 kilometres apart.
The train runs along the Kwai Noi River at 40 kilometres an hour, on a terrace 50 to 80 metres above the water. As the train moves on, the scenery outside the window changes scene after scene: close up, in the distance, and far below.
White clouds drifted along distant mountainsides, and winding mountain paths curved around the woods to link a few small European-style villas. A flock of great egrets played and fed at the water's edge. On the river, bamboo rafts and boats paddled by two people shuttled back and forth.
Small hotels of fresh, modern design stood among lawns, flowerbeds and green trees. In front of the open-air terrace of a country club, a crowd was blessing a young couple in the middle of their wedding ceremony.
To ride an old-fashioned steam train through such idyllic, sunlit scenery, taking it all in at our leisure, made the trip well worthwhile. (26)
When the train ride was over, the bus was waiting at the station for us. By now there was no distance left between any of us on board. Everyone laughed and talked, and some exchanged phone numbers and email addresses. Though we had met by chance like duckweed drifting together on the water, all within the four seas are brothers and sisters. We had made some new friends and felt very happy. By the time we got back to Bangkok, the city lights were just coming on.
Near the hotel we went into a restaurant and ordered several Thai dishes, including tom yum fish, northern Thai braised pork and stir-fried green beans. Once again we tasted authentic Thai food, treating our taste buds and filling our stomachs.
[Sunday, February 22
The fourth day of the first lunar month of the yiwei year]
After a full day of touring, tiring as all the boats and buses had been, we were still up early today. After breakfast we took the BTS Green Line to N8, Mo Chit station, got off and walked north for about ten minutes to the Chatuchak Weekend Market.
"Bangkok's Weekend Market"
The Chatuchak Weekend Market (Chatuchak Market) is Bangkok's largest market. It is open on Saturdays and Sundays and covers 140,000 square metres. In the early 20th century it was only a trading place for wholesalers and merchants. Now it is a sight no tourist misses.
It opened to stallholders in 1982 and now has 15,000 stalls, offering everything you could want: farm produce, fish, livestock, poultry, daily necessities, sundries, imported goods and local products. About 200,000 people visit on each trading day. Since June 2008 smoking has been banned throughout the market, with offenders fined 4,000 baht, about 66 US dollars. The market earns Thailand at least 2 billion US dollars in foreign exchange every year.
Thailand has abundant tourism resources, and its tourism industry is developed on every front. In 2018 there were 35 million tourists, and by 2020 the number could reach 40 million. Tourism revenue in 2016 reached 1.64 trillion baht, about 54.2 billion US dollars, or 17.7 percent of the country's total GDP.
But in the next few years, such outstanding results may not be reached, for political reasons. This too is worth the Republic of China's attention as a lesson.
The weekend market was simply too big; we could only take a quick look around. (27)
When we left the weekend market it was already three in the afternoon, but we did not go back to the hotel to rest. We took the Skytrain's light green line, changed to the dark green line, and got off at S6, Saphan Taksin station. From there we walked to the riverside pier and took a ferry to the Asiatique riverside night market. From a distance we could see the giant Ferris wheel, the plaza's landmark, turning slowly.
Opened on April 27, 2012, this is the largest night market in Asia, and it has a European and American style. The stalls in each section are neat and clean, and the whole place is well run and orderly. The shops were doing a brisk trade, and the restaurants had not an empty seat. We strolled along the riverside, wandering from stall to stall and watching the night view of the Chao Phraya River, which grew lovelier as the night went on. Inside the indoor shopping area, all kinds of goods were on offer for anyone to choose from, and the novel décor and design made it hard to tear ourselves away.
The Transgender Cabaret
Thailand's internationally famous Calypso show of transgender performers in the roles of beautiful women (commonly called a "ladyboy show") is performed here to a standard far above anywhere else. There are two shows a night, each 75 minutes long, and we chose the first, which began at 8:20.
It was a grand production. To the music of classic popular songs, the transgender beauties performed song-and-dance numbers drawn from the distinctive cultures of Thailand, China, Japan and Korea. Thailand's Khon dance, Japan's Madame Butterfly and Korea's Arirang all appeared in the show.
The piece written and choreographed to represent China was set in old Shanghai and told the love story of a gangland boss and a beautiful young woman. The boss kept a whole crowd of beauties around him, while the young woman gave her love to him alone, but she died by a gun fired in jealousy.
In Thailand, transgender people who work in the performing arts are protected by law, and any contempt or sexual assault against them is severely condemned and punished. On the way back we strolled around the Nana night market once more, and by the time we walked back to the hotel it was nearly midnight. (28)
After leaving the Or Tor Kor farmers' market, we took the BTS straight to E1, Chit Lom station, and went to look around Bangkok's largest department store, the Central World Mall. Standing on Bangkok's prime golden land, it is a complex that combines shopping, dining, entertainment and offices. It opened on July 21, 2006, and is made up of three department stores: Central Word Plaza, Isetan and Zen. This was the last item on our itinerary in Thailand. We got back to the hotel at nearly four in the afternoon and telephoned Wei'an (位安) and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Xiao, and my brother-in-law Shanjun one by one to say goodbye. We hope to come back for another visit, and next time the trip will include Chiang Mai Province in northern Thailand and Phuket.
An even newer and more modern shopping complex than the Central World Mall, Iconsiam, opened on November 9, 2018, at a cost of more than 54 billion baht, or about US$1.8 billion. It is a department store that has brought a floating market indoors, and it is also an entertainment city. Grand and luxurious, it has become a new landmark on the banks of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok.
At eight in the evening we left for Bangkok airport to take the 11:00 p.m. China Southern Airlines flight back to Shanghai by way of Wuhan. (30)
[Tuesday, February 24
The sixth day of the first lunar month, year Yiwei]
Because of delays in ground handling, the China Southern Airlines flight did not take off until nearly two in the morning the next day (February 24), and it was already 6:20 a.m. when we reached Wuhan.
What we had never expected was that, after we passed immigration, collecting our luggage would take as long as 75 minutes, something we had never seen on any trip abroad.
To get from Terminal 1, for international flights, to Terminal 2, for domestic flights, there was not even an indoor transit system. We had to go outside, and passengers and their luggage were carried across by airport bus.
The outdoor temperature in Wuhan that day was 6 degrees Celsius. Having flown in from Bangkok at 31 degrees, we faced a sudden drop of 25 degrees, and the biting cold was hard to bear.
Even more unexpected, the wait for the airport bus was also as long as 7 minutes, and the passengers cursed loudly.
When the bus stopped and the doors opened, nobody kept to the queue any more. Everyone pushed and shoved, surging on board to grab a seat. It was quite a spectacle.
Over the last five years Wuhan has pushed hard on construction, and nine bridges across the Yangtze River have joined the three towns of Wuhan into one. Very possibly it will get ahead of Guangzhou and become the fifth municipality directly under the State Council of the People's Republic of China.
On August 31, 2017, Terminal 3 of Wuhan Tianhe Airport came into service, but still I saw no indoor transit system.
It was already one in the afternoon when we reached Shanghai, where the outdoor temperature was 10 degrees Celsius. (31, end of this part)
Essay 4: Yunxiang Temple
and Hanshan Temple
On October 26, 2014, my wife and I set out from Taipei and met our younger son Anderson, who arrived in Shanghai from Detroit the same day, and we stayed at the Mandarin Oriental in Pudong. It had been 65 years since I left mainland China, and I had never imagined that I would go to Shanghai twice within four months.
Anderson was being posted abroad for work and needed to find a place in Shanghai to live for the next three years. He asked his parents for their advice, and he also wanted to get to know the working environment of his new office before taking up his post. We stayed in Shanghai only eight days. Once a home was found, we each went back to where we belonged: he to his job in Detroit, and we to our home in Los Angeles.
On December 8, our son telephoned from Shanghai to tell us about his first day at work. He also had good news: he invited his parents to come during the next Spring Festival, to fit in with his holiday, first for a trip to Thailand and then to go back and see the sights of Shanghai.
On February 15, 2015, before the Spring Festival, my wife and I arrived in Shanghai again. That year was the 70th anniversary of the Republic of China's victory in the War of Resistance against Japan, and the 78th anniversary of my late father's part in the Battle of Shanghai. We planned, while in Shanghai, to pay our respects at the two places where my father had been stationed during that campaign, Yunxiang Temple in Nanxiang and Hanshan Temple in Suzhou, and this made the trip all the more meaningful. After our seven days in Thailand, it was already late February when we got back to Shanghai, and the city already showed the first signs of early spring in Jiangnan. (1)
When we came back from Bangkok it was still the New Year holiday. After a full day's rest, the next day we went to the Super Brand Mall in Pudong, just across the street, and wandered through it floor by floor. It is a large shopping centre of 13 floors in all, above and below ground, bringing together shopping, dining, entertainment, boutiques, fashion stores, banks and cinemas under one roof.
After dinner on the seventh floor of the Super Brand Mall, we walked through the back garden of the hotel residences towards the bank of the Huangpu River.
The scene that opened before us was stunning and enchanting. Along the wide, level red-brick promenade stood rows of old-fashioned street lamps. Their light fell on flower beds running more than two hundred metres along the walk, and the scent of flowers met us as we went. The moon hanging high in the sky was reflected in the Huangpu River, and it shone together with the giant neon signs flickering among the tall buildings and the brightly lit pleasure boats and ferries plying the river. On the far bank the Bund blazed with brilliant lights, adorning the night sky of the city that never sleeps. It was as if we had walked into the picture painted by Zhang Ruoxu (張若虛) in "A Moonlit Night on the Spring River" (春江花月夜).
We settled on a long bench beside one of the street lamps and began to talk about everything under the sun. I told Anderson stories while my wife listened along with him: stories of my childhood in Shanghai, and of things that happened when his grandfather fought in the Battle of Shanghai that began on August 13, 1937. We also planned our itinerary for the next few days. (2)
Yunxiang Temple in the Old Town
On Saturday, February 28, a gloomy, rainy day, we went to Nanxiang to visit the old streets of the ancient town and Yunxiang Temple. When the Battle of Shanghai broke out on August 13, 1937 (year 26 of the Republic), my late father was a second lieutenant and platoon leader in the replacement battalion of the Army's 1st Signal Regiment. He was once stationed at Yunxiang Temple, and a page of wartime history took place there.
It was nearly noon when we entered the town of Nanxiang. We had meant to visit Guyi Garden, a famous Jiangnan garden, and have xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) for lunch. But there were crowds of visitors, and a long queue of people waiting to buy tickets to get in. To save time, we made do with lunch at a restaurant on the main street instead. After the meal we could hardly wait, and hurried off to the old street.
The old street runs alongside a small river, where weeping willows and green trees grow by the water, and in the misty rain everything was wrapped in a soft haze. The buildings on the old streets of the ancient town, with their upper storeys, are in the style of the Ming and Qing dynasties. On both sides of the narrow flagstone lanes, wine-shop flags and cloth shop signs fluttered in the wind. Teahouses, restaurants, shops, pharmacies, food workshops and craft demonstrations were all there, and strolling among them it was hard to tear oneself away. The Yuan dynasty poet Su Changling described the place in these words: "A thousand years has Nanxiang been an ancient place of worship; its tiered towers and lofty pavilions surpass all around." (「千載南翔古道場，層樓傑閣冠諸方。」) The lines capture the thousand-year splendour of the ancient town. Today its old streets are not only a commercial centre for ordinary people but also a tourist attraction of Shanghai.
Following the old street to its end, we came in sight of an ancient temple built in AD 505 (the fourth year of the Tianjian reign of Emperor Wu of Liang, in the Southern Dynasties): Yunxiang Temple.
Because of its long history, Yunxiang Temple is honoured as the foremost temple of Jiangnan. Its original name was Nanxiang Temple. Legend has it that while the temple was being built, a white crane came every day to stand on the building site, and when the temple was finished it flew away to the south, which gave the temple its name.
In 1700, the Kangxi Emperor of the Qing dynasty came here on his tour of the south and wrote a new name plaque for it, renaming it Yunxiang Temple. During the Battle of Shanghai in 1937, the old temple was hit by Japanese artillery fire. After its restoration it kept its original structure and lost none of its unworldly, vigorous grandeur.
Walking along the old streets of the ancient town in early spring, I had a feeling of quiet nostalgia for the past, of wandering in a haze. Du Mu's "Spring in Jiangnan" (江南春) reads: "For a thousand li the orioles sing, green set against red; / water villages, hill-town walls, wine-shop banners in the wind. / Of the Southern Dynasties' four hundred and eighty temples, / how many towers and terraces stand in the misty rain?" (「千里鶯啼綠映紅，水村山郭酒旗風。南朝四百八十寺，多少樓台煙雨中。」) It is a song in praise of the scenery of Jiangnan, and also a sigh over the history that has passed. (3)
When we entered Yunxiang Temple, incense smoke was curling everywhere and worshippers came in a steady stream. We held incense and bowed, praying for good weather and for peace and prosperity in the country and among its people. Then we made the round of the halls, and along the way, as chance would have it, we met the temple's abbot. I briefly told him how my late father had been stationed at this temple during the Battle of Shanghai. The aged monk had heard something of it, and he walked with us to a row of meditation rooms to the front right of the main hall. He guessed that these must have been the barracks at the time, in which case the innermost room against the wall would have been the switchboard room. We took photographs in front of the rooms as a keepsake, imagining the scenes that my father had described taking place there, and for a long time we could not bring ourselves to leave.
During the fighting at Shanghai, my father was stationed at Yunxiang Temple for 39 days, during the month and more when the fighting was fiercest. On the battlefield, the first task of the signal troops was to keep communications open. Whenever the army took up a new position, the telephone lines had to be laid there first. If they were cut, they had to be repaired at once, and even under heavy artillery fire the job had to be done at the risk of one's life. In this campaign, of the men my father led, one was killed and six were wounded, some badly, and that was the price of completing their task.
Because the Japanese had poisoned the water sources and wells, and the stored water had run out, horse urine was treated as a precious thing. With fighting everywhere, the markets stopped trading and supplies of grain and fodder were cut off, so that there was no rice to cook, and they shared pumpkins with the monks. There were no crops left to harvest in the fields, and the only way to fill their stomachs was to risk going out to dig wild greens on the hillsides.
I recalled my father's description of Yunxiang Temple in those days: the incense in the temple thinned out the stench of corpses drifting in the air. A few sparse stars kept the moon company in the night sky, and no birds were to be seen, only vultures. In the middle of the night the bell and the wooden fish went on sounding, without pause, amid the clamour of fighting and gunfire. Yunxiang Temple was like a towering mountain, standing firm and unshaken in the flames of war.
At Yunxiang Temple, the sight of the place brought my father to mind, and his figure kept circling and lingering in my thoughts. As we walked back over the flagstones of the old street, the chanting of sutras in the temple grew fainter and fainter. (4)
Hanshan Temple in Suzhou
Saturday, March 7, was a day of clear blue sky, an auspicious day for visiting Hanshan Temple in Suzhou.
On October 31, 1937, the middle phase of the Battle of Shanghai came to an end. The Nationalist army withdrew completely from Shanghai and the command centre moved to Suzhou, and my late father moved from Yunxiang Temple in Nanxiang to be stationed at Hanshan Temple in Suzhou.
Hanshan Temple is famous in China and abroad because of the Tang dynasty poet Zhang Ji's poem "A Night Mooring by Maple Bridge" (楓橋夜泊): "The moon sets, crows caw, frost fills the sky; / facing the river maples and the fishing fires, I lie down with my sorrow. / Outside the city of Gusu, from Hanshan Temple, / the midnight bell reaches the traveller's boat." (「月落烏啼霜滿天，江楓漁火對愁眠。姑蘇城外寒山寺，夜半鐘聲到客船。」)
Hanshan Temple was originally called Fengqiao Temple. It was built during the Tianjian reign of Emperor Wu of Liang in the Southern Dynasties, a little later than Yunxiang Temple. Two hundred years later, the Tang dynasty poet-monk Hanshan came to head the temple, and it was renamed Hanshan Temple.
When my late father was stationed at Hanshan Temple, the season had already passed Frost's Descent and there was a chill in the air. In the early mornings autumn frost could be seen covering the ground, which added to the bleakness of the temple. When night fell and all was quiet, bursts of gunfire and artillery sounded on and off in the distance, and outside the walls soldiers under orders hurried towards the battlefield. The air of slaughter cut to the bone and was chilling.
Alone in the switchboard room, my father would gaze at the night sky after midnight and see only the stars and the moon, with no crows cawing. The river maples and the fishing fires had vanished without a trace. There were only pine branches swaying and the cold night pressing in, and the midnight bell rang no more.
Around November 7 or 8, early one Sunday morning, my late father was on duty at the switchboard and put through a call from Generalissimo Chiang to General Tang Enbo (湯恩伯). Less than a minute into the conversation, the line suddenly went dead. Almost without thinking, my father ran outside and saw a man on a telephone pole cutting the wire, with an accomplice below helping him. He drew his pistol at once and fired at the two men. His aim was astonishingly accurate: both were hit in vital spots and died on the spot. Then, without a moment's hesitation, he ran back inside, grabbed his splicing tools, climbed the pole and hurriedly rejoined the wires. In less than seven minutes, the line was working again.
Over the telephone, Tang Enbo reported what had happened to the Generalissimo, who commended him. A week later the Signal Corps issued an order awarding my father a major merit citation. Soon afterwards he was transferred to Hankou for a new assignment and promoted to first lieutenant. (5)
Recalling my father's own account and consulting a floor plan of Hanshan Temple, we found where the switchboard had been. The equipment room faced south, with its back to a boundary wall. Beyond the wall was the road, and on the east side was a sidewalk. Leaving the room and turning left twice, about thirty paces away, was the temple's side gate leading out to the road. It was through this side gate that my father dashed toward the telephone pole on the road and shot the two traitors. The wooden telephone pole of my father's story has since been replaced by a concrete high-voltage power pole.
We watched worshippers lighting incense and bowing, expressing their devotion to the Buddha with tranquil minds, clear hearts and boundless feeling. Thinking back to what my father saw in those days and what we encountered today, I felt that the experience was much the same. The time was different, but the place was the same.
In the August 13 Battle of Shanghai, my father showed both wisdom and courage. He served in the military for nearly forty years, taking the soldier's five great creeds, "Doctrine, Leader, Country, Responsibility, Honor," as his guiding principles. Looking back on his lifelong loyalty to his country and his outstanding contributions to signal operations in war, he can truly be called a model soldier who loved his country. My father graduated from the 17th class of the Signals Department of the Whampoa Military Academy. His name was Chen Qi'er (陳其二), and his courtesy name was Zhongying (仲影). He died in Taipei on October 9, 2007 (year 96 of the Republic), at the age of ninety.
Before leaving, we climbed the octagonal bell tower on the west side and looked down over the whole of Hanshan Temple. We gazed for a long time at the room where the switchboard had once been, unable to take our eyes off it, silently praying that my father would know eternal blessing in heaven. I wrote a seven-character quatrain in his memory:
Seventy-eight years along a rough and winding road,
Maple Bridge and Hanshan look just as they did then.
The wise one, like the yellow crane, has long since flown;
Leaning on the rail, I climb the bell tower to remember.
(Note: "Seventy-eight years": from the Battle of Shanghai in 1937 to our visit to Hanshan Temple in 2015, seventy-eight years had passed.) (6; end of this part)
Essay 5: Cleveland
A Rock and Roll Trip
On October 18, 2019, my wife and I went to my younger son's home in Detroit for a five-week stay. One reason was to cook him some of the Chinese dishes he loves and some medicinal dishes to help build up his health. The other was to go out sightseeing every Saturday and Sunday and see the beauty of Michigan in autumn.
In the first two weeks we visited the German-style town of Frankenmuth, the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation, and Hidden Lake Gardens, the agricultural experimental arboretum of Michigan State University.
On Saturday, November 2, the weather was clear, and we decided on an out-of-state trip to Cleveland, Ohio. On the way we passed through the second-tier city of Toledo to visit a traditional farmers' market, and we also visited Cleveland's traditional West Side Market, one of the city's century-old landmarks.
The highlight of the trip was a visit to Cleveland's Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Founded in 1986, it is a museum that displays and records the history of rock music and the people, artists and songwriters connected with it. (1)
Cleveland is the second-largest city in Ohio, after the state capital, Columbus. It lies on the south shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River. During the Second World War it was a major center of the defense industry, as famous as Pittsburgh in Pennsylvania.
Cleveland was founded in 1796. That it became the world capital of rock music has a variety of reasons, religious, ethnic, historical and geopolitical.
In the 1620s, a group of English Separatists crossed the Atlantic from the English port of Plymouth and settled in the New World, and others followed in growing numbers.
To build and develop this new land, a great deal of labor was urgently needed. Shipload after shipload of Black people from south-western Africa were tricked or seized by slave traders and carried to the New World like pigs. From then on they were cut off from their homeland and became slaves for life. By the middle of the 17th century, some owners with a little humanity brought over their family members so they could be reunited, but they still lived the lowly life of slaves. (2)
These Black slave laborers, including those from British colonies in south-western Africa such as Gambia, Ghana and Cameroon, mostly lived in the southern states of America, from Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee and Kentucky to Texas.
These African Americans, far from their homes, lived for long years in homesickness, anxiety, bewilderment and helplessness. They often found two ways to vent their feelings and relieve the pressure. One was to worship in their own churches. The other was to sing out the gloom in their hearts and soften their longing for home.
Through their worship services, their singing, accompanied by the traditional dances of their homeland, poured out freely in fast rhythms. There were also slow blues songs expressing their hopes and the pursuit of their ideals. Musicians called these songs, so well sung and so well composed, Negro spirituals. They gradually gave rise to country music, jazz, and the rock music that has remained popular from the 1950s to the present day. (3)
In the 1950s America was powerful and prosperous, the richest country in the world, and broadcasting entered a new era. Almost every household had a radio, and through it Black songs spread across the whole country. At that time Cleveland had more radio stations than any other city in America.
In 1951, Alan Freed, a music program host at Cleveland's WJW radio station, introduced Black songs on the air, and they gradually won acceptance among white listeners. Fast-paced songs in particular, led by young singers, made their way into homes, schools and society at large and became a trend. Alan Freed had the inspired idea on his program of giving this kind of song a name: Rock and Roll.
In the mid-1950s, record companies sprang up across America like bamboo shoots after rain. Fully automatic record changers were already very popular, which helped Rock and Roll spread even further. The craze soon spread outward from Cleveland, and in 1959 a huge concert was held there. That year, the King of Pop, Michael Jackson (1958-2009), had not yet been born. Michael Jackson, who began singing at the age of four, came in 1968, through the introduction of relatives and friends, from his hometown of Memphis, Tennessee, to Detroit, Michigan. He released his first record and, led by his older brother, sang on the streets, causing a sensation.
In 1963 rock and roll reached Britain, and that was the beginning of the Beatles. In 1965 it was popular in San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York, and in the years that followed it spread to cities large and small all over the country.
Through rock music, the postwar generation of young people found an outlet for their feelings, and their elders also went from rejecting it to loving it.
To heighten the effect of the performances, rock music also stirred the creativity of fashion designers, and all kinds of costumes and outfits appeared one after another. (4)
In the course of promoting rock music, through radio broadcasting in the 1950s and 1960s, television broadcasting from the 1970s to the 1990s, and the internet in the 21st century, more than a hundred well-known composers, singers and artists connected with rock music emerged.
Around 1986 there were nearly sixty of them, including Elvis Presley, James Brown, Jerry Lee Lewis and the singer Aretha Franklin.
Among the bands, the famous ones included the Beatles (George Harrison, John Lennon, Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr), the Drifters and the Supremes, more than thirty groups in all.
Besides this, the American servicemen and civilian employees stationed at overseas bases also deserve credit for spreading Rock and Roll. From the end of the Korean War to the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq that are still going on today, for more than sixty years, nearly 350,000 servicemen have been permanently stationed overseas, and more than four million have served there on rotation. Brought in by these young servicemen, rock music not only set off a fashion locally but also influenced the style of local singers and the thinking of local composers.
Taiwan is one example. The song Passionate Desert (熱情的沙漠), sung by Ouyang Fei Fei (歐陽菲菲), captivated many listeners and audiences. Its melody and rhythm are almost exactly the same as the pop-rock song "California Dreaming". (5)
In the mid-1960s, the civil rights movement and the anti-war movement in America arose and spread in big cities and on university campuses across the country. The generation born after the war in particular could not tolerate the reality around them and took to the streets in large numbers.
Young people in the countries of Western Europe at the time felt the same way as those in America. Rock music arrived at just the right moment and filled the emptiness in their hearts. The rise of the Beatles in Britain is an obvious example.
In the 1980s MTV became popular in America and increased the influence of rock music. The American government also gave it strong support, spreading it to Asia and to Central and South America, and even deep into the countries of Eastern Europe and mainland China. It profoundly influenced young people there, giving them a longing for the democracies of Europe and America and freeing them from long years of spiritual oppression.
Within less than ten years, America's soft power finally brought down the regimes of Eastern Europe and led to the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and it also had an effect on mainland China. This was a major breakthrough in the history of American foreign affairs.
We spent three hours at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame museum on Rock and Roll Boulevard in Cleveland, on the shore of Lake Erie, learning how rock music spread, about the lives of famous singers and composers, and about its impact on the whole world. (6; end of this part)