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Part 8 of 8第 8 部分，共 8 部分
Volume 3: Far Away, Yet Next Door, essays 15–22, and afterword下集：天涯若比鄰，第 15–22 篇及後記下集：天涯若比鄰，第 15–22 篇及后记
簡介中原為英文的部分由 AI（Claude）於 2026 年 11 月譯成中文，尚未經作者審閱。
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Contents目錄目录 (9)
第15篇：龍蟠虎踞
石頭城
2016年2月12日星期五，中國大陸仍在春節長假之中，我們作了一次三天兩夜的南京行。
南京位於江蘇省西南方，長江與秦淮河交會處，是江蘇省的省會，原是中華民國在大陸時期的十二院轄市之一。
三國時（西元229-280）東吳孫權在此建都，稱建業又名石頭城。37年後至東晉(317-420），延續南朝宋(420-479），齊(479-502），梁（502-557），陳（557-589）共272年，首都均在南京，故有「六朝故都」之稱。
如果加上明朝前53年，由明太祖洪武元年(1368）至成祖永樂19年（1421）遷都北京，應為「七朝之都」。
上午九時我們赴上海虹橋火車站，搭乘9時42分滬寧高鐵(原京滬鐵路，全長305公里），路經崑山、蘇州、無錫、常州(武進）、丹陽、鎮江，至南京南站，僅需1小時25分鐘。
民國34年(1945年)8月抗戰勝利還都，次年三月，父親啣命復元至瀋陽履新，正是江南春暖花開時節，一家人由重慶出發，經南京到上海，再轉東北。
我生平第一次坐火車，晩十一時南京的夜快車，到達上海已是清晨六點，同樣走的是這條京滬鐵路，至今（2020年）已是74年前的事了。(1）
南京為華夏正朔之所在，民國20年(1931年)6月1日，國民政府公佈《中華民國訓政時期約法》，第五條規定「中華民國國都定於南京」。中華人民共和國建政後，不失其政治文化中心之地位，視為一線國際大都市。
南京市以雄偉、秀麗、清幽著稱，鍾山聳立於東，長江縈繞於西，雨花台屏障於南，棲霞諸山綿亙於北，夙有「鍾山龍蟠，石頭虎踞」之譽。
國父孫中山先生曾云：南京有高山，有深水，有平原，此三種天工，銜毓一處，在世界大都市之中，誠難覓如此佳境。
火車駛入市區，立即感受到那股氣勢雄偉的震撼。心中激動不已的是，這座「悲情的城市」與我們的國家和我的家族，有著無法割捨的情懷。太多悲壯可泣的故事，在此發生。
走出南京南站，搭乘1號線地鐵北上到達新街口，下榻諾富特酒店（Novotel Nanjing Central Hotel)，酒店位於市中心，西有莫愁湖，東有總統府遺址，南有夫子廟近秦淮河，北有玄武湖。餐後，直奔明孝陵。(2）
【明孝陵】
明孝陵位於南京紫金山(鍾山）西南，紫霞湖之西，係明太祖朱元璋（生於1328年10月21日安徽鳳陽，卒於1398年6月24日南京)之陵寢。建於明洪武14年（1381年），太祖時年54歲，至成祖永樂3年(1405年，朱元璋卒後7年)建成，動用軍工10萬人，歷時25年，中間經過惠帝主政4年(1399-1402）。
朱元璋生前選在紫金山玩珠峰下，依山傍水，佈局宏大風水寳地為其陵墓，是經過深思熟慮嚴謹設計的。一年後（洪武15年)，馬皇后去逝，葬於此陵，謚「孝慈」，太祖將皇陵命名為「明孝陵」。用皇后謚號作為皇陵稱謂，天下少有。1398年太祖逝，啓用地宮與馬皇后合葬。
通往陵寢大道兩側，相向立獅、獬、麒麟、駱駝、馬、象六種巨型石雕，並各有四對身著盔甲武將和蟒袍文臣石像，立於陵前。
築陵大臣李新，建議破土動工前，移開孫權(182-252)陵墓。朱元璋云：不必了，孫權也是一條好漢，就讓他在這裡為我守墓吧。
我們走在通往陵寢的山路上，在參天梧桐樹下，邊走邊講。這位雄才大略的平民皇帝，一生金碧輝煌，事功卓著，雖然只換來294年的江山社稷，但在宣揚國威、理學、經世之學、考據之學、科技發明上，對中華民族有著鉅大貢獻。(3)
行程第二站是上紫金山謁國父中山陵，中山陵位於紫金山南麓，海拔270公尺，因山上時有紫氣而得名，又名鍾山。岡巒起伏氣象萬千，俯瞰南京阡陌綠水，平原大川。革命先烈譚延闓、廖仲愷之墓，均在此山中。
中山陵在明孝陵東北，相距8．6公里，二陵之間有紫霞湖。我們搭乘專為登山而設計的十人座電瓶車，抵達中山陵入口處。
國父孫中山先生於民國14年(1925年)3月12日，病逝北平，奉安於西山碧雲寺。民國18年(1929年)6月1日，移靈南京紫金山。
中山陵佔地8萬平方公尺，四面蒼松翠柏環繞，氣勢恢宏，莊嚴肅穆，為中國建築奇才呂彦直設計興建。
呂彦直，1894年7月28日生於天津，清華大學建築系畢業，美國康奈爾大學建築系深造，民國18年3月18日因肝癌病逝南京。遺憾未能親身參加兩個月後的國父移靈大典。他有一位青梅竹馬的摯愛，中國近代思想史一代宗師嚴復(1853-1921）的次女嚴璆(辜振甫之妻嚴倬雲的親姑姑）。呂彦直英年早逝，驚聞噩耗，悲慟欲絕。至北平西郊出家，削髮為尼，法名秋妙。1951年經香港到台灣定居，終生未嫁。
中山陵的設計，仿中西合併宮殿式建築，由入口牌坊經墓道、陵門、石階、碑亭、祭堂至墓室，共八平台，392級石階，代表中國人口有3億9千2百萬。(4）
Anderson在上海工作三年，前後到南京七次，其中三次出差，四次登中山陵，頭一次個人行，後三次，一次與Anthony，一次與表姐Alicia，這次與父母。
我們在入口牌坊前廣場下車，開始攀登中山陵，是一次體力與毅力的考驗。要走一條480米的陵道，登392級石階。
牌坊以花崗岩建造，石柱門楣上嵌國父墨寶「博愛」兩字。
走完陵道前段，來到位於中軸線中央位置的陵門，續走後段至碑亭，正中央豎立長方型花崗石墓碑一座，豎刻「中國國民黨葬總理孫先生於此中華民國十八年六月一日」24個大字。亭旁種植千年杉樹一株，樹形奇特蒼勁有力。
由碑亭通往祭堂的八段石階，全部採用蘇州金山花崗石，從下往上望，只見台階不見平面，崴崴陵寢聳立雲霄。秀蓮遲疑不決是否登頂，平台休息片刻，仍然信心不足。Anderson見狀說道：媽媽，我背妳上去。就是這句話，激發了做母親的信心，為了敬謁一代偉人，決心攀登。中途三次休息，終獲成功。俯瞰陵門，只見平面不見台階，遠眺南京城，長江秦淮盡收眼底。
石階第三平台，西側有一尊奉安紀念銅鼎，高約一公尺，造型仿毛公鼎，見遊客擲銅幣於鼎內，祈求國泰民安風調雨順。
來到最高處祭堂，堂前建三道拱門，長30公尺，寛25公尺，高29公尺，每一門楣上分刻「民族」、「民權」、「民生」橫額，拱門之上刻「天地正氣」四字。
祭堂中央安放中山先生大理石坐像一尊，高4．6米。係法國名雕刻家保羅朗特斯基(Paul Maximillien Landowski 1875-1961)採用義大利白色大理石，歷時兩年半雕刻完成。其作品還有，馳名國際的巴西里約熱內盧基督像。
祭堂與墓室相連，室內安葬中山先生水晶棺遺體，深5公尺，直徑4公尺，外以鋼筋混凝土密封。遊客可在漢白玉石欄桿外，俯視靈柩上的國父白玉石雕臥像。一代偉人長眠於此，深潛默禱國父在天之靈庇佑中華，綿延流長永世永昌。(5）
離開中山陵時近黃昏，撘乘出租車至秦淮河北岸的夫子廟。
【夫子廟】
夫子廟方圓兩公里內，有烏衣巷、朱雀橋古蹟，不遠處有碼頭可搭彩船夜遊秦淮河。
夫子廟位於江南貢院之西，貢院係科舉擢才的考場。南京夫子廟是中國四大孔廟之一，廟市街景合一，在貢院街商圈，集文化、旅遊、飲食、購物於一體。
我們在創立於民國15年的「尹氏鷄汁湯包店」用餐後，漫步至具有1千7百年歷史的古蹟，古道「烏衣巷」，去尋幽探勝。
烏衣巷是三國時期東吳孫權，屯兵訓練水師的地方，因兵士皆著烏衣而得名，到烏衣巷要經過一座石拱橋「朱雀橋」。
唐朝詩人劉禹錫(772-842）曾為烏衣巷及朱雀橋，作了一首「烏衣巷」的詩，道盡了當時此地的繁榮景象。
七言絕句詩如後：
朱雀橋邊野草花，
烏衣巷口夕陽斜。
(斜音：霞)
舊時王謝堂前燕，
飛入尋常百姓家。
東晉政治家、書法家王導(276-339王羲之的叔父)及指導淝水之戰(383）的謝安(320-385）都在烏衣巷居住多年。
世事滄桑，物是人非。走在這秦淮河畔，頗有感觸。南京人一身流露著一股豁達真情，看淡世事沉浮和命運的起落，有其歴史原因。(6)
夫子廟商圈內，人來人往熙熙攘攘，古巷、拱橋、河畔風光盡在眼底。想起北宋（960-1126）時翰林張擇端（1085-1145）所繪「清明上河圖」中，市集的場景。兩相比較，一在汴京(開封，又稱東京)，一在南京，古人、今人相隔850年，城裏城外繁華熱鬧的景象，卻是一樣。
【秦淮河】
來到秦淮河彩舫碼頭，候船的隊伍已有數百公尺長，走約5分鐘到達隊尾，估計有八、九百人。近30分鐘後輪到登船，所幸拿到酒店事前訂購的船票，不然會再等上半個小時。
碼頭對岸有一座建於明神宗萬暦3年(1575)，長110米，高40米，寛8米的全國第一大照壁。紅色牆壁上雕浮兩條金龍，相對盤繞，在燈光照射下栩栩如生。
彩舫有40餘艘，每艘滿座可乘50人。由碼頭出發，經東水閘公園、中華門城堡折返，全程約50分鐘。
秦淮十里，燈紅酒綠，夜夜笙歌，紙醉金迷。臆六朝以還，無數風流韻事，盡在秦淮。
明末(思宗崇禎1628-1643）秦淮有八艷，陳圓圓、李香君、董小宛，名譟一時。其中李香君(1624-1654）、董小宛(1642-1651）身世際遇頗有相似之處。同是蘇州人，都成長於明末清初，天生麗質，精於琴棋書畫，皆有一段才子佳人的故事。
2019年5月，秦淮河已啓動5G智慧形遊船，借助360度VR功能，不必上岸，坐在行船中就可深入看到堤上風光，明清樓台外貌內觀。可想象與李香君、董小宛近距離面面相對，暢談藝文的情景，科技一日千里，已無時空距離。（7)
2月13日星期六，上午九時首站中華民國總統府舊址。
【總統府】
南京總統府是中國近代建築遺存中，規模最大保存最完整的建築群。
其古建築建於三國時東吳建安二年(西元197年)，先後經東晉、南朝(宋、齊、梁、陳)，合計為「六朝宮廷」，也成為五代十國時南唐(937-975）的後宮。
經過八百年的風霜雨雪戰爭毀壞，原有建築已斷垣殘壁。
清乾隆11年(1746)及清同治9年（1870）兩次重建，遂有今日建築格局。民國25年(1936)，名建築師盧炳烈再次設計整建，更具現代建築形式。
清道光年後，曾是太平天國天王府、兩江總督府、江南總督署、江寧織造署及中華民國總統府。
民國元年（1912)1月1日，孫中山先生在此宣誓就任中華民國臨時大總統。民國37年(1948)，中華民國行憲後第一任總統蔣中正、副總統李宗仁也在此地宣誓就職。
這座中華民國中樞所在地，歷史上數度成為軍事進城攻佔目標。1，民國16年(1927）3月23日北伐國民革命軍收復南京。2，民國26年(1937)12月13日，日本軍攻陷南京，執行大屠殺。3，民國38年(1949)4月23日，中共人民解放軍渡江，南京淪陷。
我們在總統府舊址內，逐進參觀，至總統副總統辦公室、會議室及各局處辦公室，會議室內仍懸中華民國國旗及中國國民黨黨旗。
一部春秋史，千年孤臣涙。成敗難長久，興亡轉瞬間。走進這座總統府舊址，回顧民國盛世興衰，頗有一番感慨。(8）
離開總統府舊址，得出租車之便，就近品味一下長江路「文化第一街」上的歴史建築，未下車僅經過。包括毗盧寺、梅園紀念館、南京圖書館、江寧織造博物館、江蘇省美術館、金陵圖書館。
【南唐李煜】
在前往玄武湖的路上，刻意繞經丹鳳街，為的是找尋五代十國南唐(937-975）李後主（李煜，937-978）的遺蹟，雖然遺蹟早已不在，但仍有指示牌標明中國最早的畫院位置，李煜經常邀約其老師馮延巳(903-960，揚州人，南唐重臣，著名詞人，詞多寫閑情逸致)為首的文人群體，在此研討文學藝術。另外還有一個懺經樓，相傳是李煜燒香念佛的地方。
不知此街距離新街口酒店近在咫尺，才知道南唐遺址就在眼前，我們有幸正住在六朝煙水間。
李煜自小就生長在琴棋書畫的環境裡，天生就是當文學家的料。可是歷史開了李煜一個大玩笑，讓他當上了皇帝。
西元975年(宋太祖開寶8年)陰曆元旦日，北宋攻破金陵，李煜與皇后及45位文武大臣被俘。這年李煜39歲，皇后26歲，被軟禁在洛陽，有兩年半之久。宋太宗（太祖之弟趙光義，在位22年，976-997）沒想到這位被俘的皇帝在軟禁期間，卻寫下他一生中最動人，如杜鵑啼血般的文字。如那首《虞美人》：春花秋月何時了，往事知多少，小樓昨夜又東風，故國不堪回首月明中，雕欄玉砌應猶在，只是朱顏改，問君能有幾多愁，恰似一江春水向東流。
就是這首詞，讓宋太宗對他起了殺機，認為他要造反，慘遭毒死，皇后也懸梁自盡。
在中國文學史上，唐詩被認為是文學的高峰，唐亡後，進入分裂的五代十國，唐詩走了下坡。卻被南唐李煜延續了血脈，開創了宋詞的美學地位，影響到後來的蘇軾、秦觀、周邦彥、李清照和辛棄疾等人。(9）
過了丹鳳街，下一個行程玄武湖就近了。車輪輾轉向前，腦間起伏不停。同一空間，不同時間。花開花謝，燕去燕來。一壺清茗，一盤殘棋。從趙光義滅南唐，到日軍殺戮屠城。
【玄武湖】
路過鷄鳴寺，來到玄武湖，一個詩情畫意的地方。玄武湖又名後湖，位於鍾山之西，北臨低丘大紅山，南連公園九華山，湖週30里。
我們沿湖順環湖公路北上，到了玄武門城門外，步行約十分鐘到達湖邊。
浦邊碼頭停泊數艘遊艇，遊客等候泛舟登船。遠望湖中五島，闢為公園。可謂亭榭覽勝，柳條夾道，長堤逶迤，波光漣照，湖光送爽，泛舟垂釣。我們在此逗留了兩個小時，續往「侵華日軍南京大屠殺遇難同胞紀念館」憑弔。（10）
民國26年(1937年)8月13日，中日淞滬會戰起，至11月26日國軍全面撤離上海，為期106天，中華民國戰畧運用成功，兵力移至首都南京，蘇州、無錫、常熟（今常州)相繼失守。
十月中旬，時任陸軍通信兵第一團獨立營中尉書記官的尹季和(我的外祖父)，將眷屬由鎮江遷至南京，安置在其駐地鼔樓附近。
12月13日，日軍攻陷南京的前兩天，是一個下著小雨的清晨，天氣奇寒，外祖父帶著一家人，渡長江至對岸浦口，隨國軍留守處(內戰時期整編為聯勤留守業務署)，遷徙到大後方，之後外祖父返回部隊。
外婆帶著三個孩子到了漢口，得知外公失踪的消息，後來證實在南京保衛戰中陣亡。
我在前往遇難同胞紀念館途中，腦際不停盤繞這段歴史，內子秀蓮及兩個孩子都很瞭解這段歷史。
Anderson在上海任職三年期間，曾四度去紀念舘憑弔，兩次獨行(其中一次在雨中)，一次與其兄Anthony，這次與父母同行。(11)
1985年8月15日，抗戰勝利40週年，中共黨中央決定成立「侵華日軍南京大屠殺遇難同胞紀念館」，擇莫愁湖西岸西水門大街418號為館址，開始興建。
【遇難同胞紀念館】
2007年12月13日，日軍屠城70週年，全館對外開放，一天之內湧入近兩萬人參觀。之後，評為國家一級博物館，全國愛國主義教育示範基地。
館址佔地面積7萬4千平方公尺，建築面積2萬5千平方公尺，展館面積9千8百平方公尺。全館分公園、廣場陳列、史料陳列三部份。
廣場矗立多座大型雕塑，展示「古城的災難」。館內展覧分八大區塊，展出3千多件文物、3千5百張圖片，2百多張照片。
進入展廳沿石階而下，左邊是死難同胞個資檔案室，每人一個整齊排列在檔案架上。緊鄰檔案室有一座高近3公尺長約80公尺的石牆，上刻死難同胞的姓名。中共12屆人大常委會第7次會議決定，每年12月13日為「南京大屠殺死難者國家公祭日」。(12)
2015年8月12日，Anderson南京出差兩天，次日中午辦妥公事，下午至南京大屠殺死難同胞紀念館憑弔。刻意安排如此行程，基於對中國八年抗戰歷史進一步的瞭解。南京，對中國是一個悲情的城市，也是他的外曾祖父為國捐軀敵前陣亡的地方。南京，也是他的外曾祖母及奶奶、舅爺爺、姨姥姥，曾經生活過的地方。更重要的是，他要找尋外曾祖父在館內檔案室內的資料。
我對這個出生在台灣，成長學習在海外的這個孩子，心中念念不忘自己的生命根源，感到欣慰。
他仔細的瀏覽展館內的文物，並作筆記。在死難同胞的石牆上，希望能夠看到外曾祖父的名字。在數萬死難同胞名單中，找尋到一個人並不容易。
也許是上主的恩典，走不到兩分鐘，居然「尹季和」外曾祖父的名字就在視線之內。他立刻奔向檔案室，是否更進一步找到外曾祖父的檔案資料。
在管理人員的協助下，在電腦資料庫中，終於找到了。他心中默禱，此時的外曾祖父天上有知，他的外曾孫來看他了。
回到上海，他以視訊方式，首先報告給當時還在世的奶奶。奶奶激動了，由喜悅轉為悲泣，只見眼涙直流，久久不能言語。(13)
在館務人員的陪同下，Anderson很快找到檔案架上外曾祖父尹季和的資料盒。長11吋、寛8吋、高2吋，製作很精緻的木盒。取出盒內的文件，制式的表格含附件僅有張紙。表格列死難同胞的出生日期、籍貫、性別和事蹟紀畧，簡單得僅此而已。
Anderson請教館務人員，是否可以提供一些有關亡者包括追悼文之類的文件，以充實檔案內容，獲得非常歡迎的答覆。
事隔半年後的2016年2月13日，Anderson陪同我和秀蓮，再次來到紀念館，卻帶來一件珍貴的文件，民國37年（1948年)由國民政府主席蔣中正簽署的「榮哀狀」。主文矜列「茲有陸軍通信兵第一團獨立營中尉書記尹季和於民國二十六年十二月在南京抗戰陣亡忠貞為國殊堪矜式特頒此狀永誌哀榮此狀
國民政府主席蔣中正」
當年Anderson的奶奶接獲此榮哀狀時，曾嚎啕大哭。
我們將榮哀狀(影本)恭整的平放在盒內，並默哀追懷。事後參觀館內展物，約一小時離去。外面起風了，下起小雨。我們按行程來到中山碼頭，眺望對岸浦口，當年外祖父訣別家人的地方。
隨後又來到南京長江大橋(1968年9月建成），1990年我的父母第二次大陸探親，在滬至親陪同前來此橋遙祭。我們結束了兩天兩夜的南京行，次日上午繼續下一行程安徽蚌埠及古城鳯陽。（14，本篇完)
第16篇：蚌埠鳳陽行
2016年2月14日，這天是西洋的情人節又逢星期日，心情愉快還帶著一些離情。上午九時前到達南京南站，搭乘京滬高鐵(北京至上海)動車，過長江大橋西北行至安徽蚌埠。上午10時32分發車，中午12時零7分到達蚌埠北站，行車僅1小時35分鐘。
蚌埠位於淮河南岸，原津浦、淮南兩鐵的交會處，因盛產河蚌珍珠，故又稱「珠城」。
我們刻意選擇北站下車，為的是親眼目睹這座原津浦鐵路上的舊火車站，見證百年來它飽受戰火蹂躪洗禮的那段歷史。
蚌埠原是淮河邊上的小鎮，自津浦鐵路通車駛經此地後，一躍而成皖北第一大都市及軍事重鎮。鐵路給它帶來繁榮，也給它帶來災禍。
蚌埠人常說：蚌埠是火車拉來的城市。城北有一座跨越淮河的鐵路大橋（今淮河鐵路雙橋)，是僅次於黃河鐵路橋的第二大橋。
蚌埠淮河鐵路大橋曾「兩炸三修」，民國26年（1937年)抗戰全面興起，次年初日軍沾著南京大屠殺的鮮血到達蚌埠，為了阻擊日軍切斷徐州會戰日軍的後援力量，國軍奉令炸毀。日軍為了戰爭需要，同年完成修復。
民國37年(1948年)11月徐蚌會戰(中共稱淮海戰役)起，至次年1月10日蚌埠撤退前，國軍為了阻止中共軍南下，奉令再次炸毀。
民國38年(1949年)1月20日，解放軍鐵路兵團進行緊急維修，在炸毀的大橋旁，搭建浮橋臨時通車，共軍順利過了淮河。
民國38年4月20日，解放軍開始渡江作戰，5月1日便橋工程動土，6月30日建成。同年11月16日，南京、上海淪陷後，蚌埠淮河鐵路大橋修復工程施工，民國39年(1950年)7月4日竣工。至此，津浦鐵路恢復全線通車，這真是一部戰爭鐵路滄桑史。(1)
京滬高速鐵路縱貫蚌埠市區，車行由南至北，穿過東蘆山、高鐵新區、錐子山風景區，到達蚌埠火車站。
一下車就感覺到這座老車站頗像一位歷經風餐露宿、風燭殘年的老人，但仍有一股屹立不搖的氣勢。
從月台到出站口，要走上10分鐘，有一種歷史滄海桑田，悽涼沁心的感受。畢竟這座老車站曾經是徐蚌會戰時期，運兵及後勤支援重要的運補站。
走出車站驚喜的是，站前廣場似曾相識，如同台灣鐵路支線的車站，感到親切無比，稱不上是廣場。四週小吃店多於雜貨店，中間有一圓環由攤販圍繞著，有兩個售賣鮮花的攤子，以應情人節需要。
靠近大馬路的這一邊有公交車站，一長溜的排班計程車等待生意。我們在一間麥當勞店解決了午餐，店外有數輛俗稱「包包車」的電瓶公鷄車也在召攬顧客，車資比計程車便宜很多。市內每人人民幣10元，感覺很新鮮有趣。我們選了一輛比較新的車子，司機員是一位近60歲的中年男子，一口安徽口音，我還聽得懂，他沿途給我們介紹風景「這裡是曹山，這座橋是珍珠橋，前面是涂山東路，南山豪生大酒店就快到了」。
包包車在一條小徑的盡頭停了下來不走了。司機員說：先生太太，不好意思，前面就是酒店的後門，走幾步就到了，可以從後門進去。我們這種車是不允許在大酒店正門停留的，要不然會被公安帶走罰款的。
看看他是一位憨厚的老實人，也就下了車，我們沒有走後門，行李也很簡單，繞道由正門進入，這又是一件新鮮事。(2)
南山豪生大酒店（Howard Johnson)位於涂山東路與延安路交會處，在23樓房間臥室的窗前遠眺蚌埠街景，櫛比鱗次高樓林立車輛穿梭如織，很難想像這是一個二線城市，今日的蚌埠已成為古鎮新城兼具的現代化都市。
我們按行程下午至旅遊景點禾泉農莊遊覽，出了酒店右轉往西直行，順涂山大道過黑虎山路接東海大道，車行約1小時到達涂山風景區。
涂山是蚌埠城西一座海拔三百公尺的小山，山腳之下是距今4千2百年前，中國治水專家大禹的故鄉，風景優美極具觀光價值。市政當局遂於2001年規劃創建佔地350英畝的「禾泉農莊」，並在其附近隔著東海大道，成立「森禾現代花卉科技產業園」於2012年建成。
禾泉農莊開闢數座展示廳及生態會所，展示皖北民風民俗並宏揚大禹文化。
森禾現代花卉園，又稱蚌埠花博園，以現代科技研發新品種，推廣至全國各省市自治區。園內有宿根園(培育中心)、牡丹園、竹園、梅園、杜鵑園、玫瑰園及半圓廣場和婚慶廣場。來到蚌埠，這兩個景點不能遺漏。我們在這裡停留了近三個小時後，趕去探望秀蓮的二姐和二姐夫，也是此行的目的之一。
二姐、二姐夫均已離休，住在同一條街（涂山大道)上的「蚌埠玻璃工業設計研究院」員工宿舍內，二姐夫是一位書法家又專精國畫花鳥。玻璃設計研究院研發的玻璃，一直被世界各國高樓建築採用。
我們在一家徽菜館晚餐，二姐挑選了幾樣我們從來沒有吃過的地道安徽美食，蚌埠特色螞蝦、燒餅夾里脊、雪園酒釀渾湯四色元宵。
蚌埠近郊湖、河裡盛產螞蝦，也就是小龍蝦，蚌埠是中國第一個流行吃螞蝦的都市，它的鮮、香、嫩，足可讓人齒頰留香回味無窮。
燒餅夾里脊是蚌埠最具特色的美食，不單單是一種小吃，更是一種平民飲食文化。
雪園酒釀元宵，配方獨特用料考究，有一種「不吃不知道，一吃忘不掉」的感覺。
此夜室外奇寒，從餐館到住家，暢談近至午夜，才結束頭一天愉快的蚌埠遊。（3)
在蚌埠的第二天〈2月15日)上午九時，我們搭乘由酒店安排的特約出租車，由胡姓師傅開車，作鳯陽一日遊，行程包括明皇陵、龍興寺、鼔樓。胡師傅建議增加一行程，順路參觀「渡江戰役總前委」舊址，我們欣然接受。
【蚌埠孫家圩子】
國共內戰時期，中共有一個機構「前線作戰最高指揮中心」，又稱「總前敵委員會」，簡稱「總前委」。徐蚌會戰（淮海戰役)時，此機構設在徐州，戰役結束後，中共推動下一階段攻擊，渡長江直取南京再陷上海。
中共黨中央決定將總前委南移至蚌埠孫家圩子，最有利指揮位置。蚌埠位處原津浦鐵路及淮南鐵路交會處，津浦鐵路終點在浦口，遙對南京僅一水之隔。
孫家圩子位於蚌埠東南西蘆山下，渡江戰役總前委就在圩子內，僅有一條公路經過，地勢隱密。
2004年安徽省人民政府進行舊址修建，2008年12月26日完工對外開放，名為「渡江戰役總前委舊址紀念館」，佔地20．4畝，建築面積1230平方公尺，展覽面積1100平方公尺，為保持原有建築風格，以「修舊如舊，恢復原貌」為原則。
民國38年(1949年)3月22日，鄧小平、陳毅、譚震林總前委，華東局、華東軍區前方及三野司令部，均由徐州遷入，鄧小平親自擬定渡江戰役作戰指導綱領。
4月21日解放軍跨過長江，24日南京失守，5月26日上海淪陷。我們在紀念館內停留不到一小時，心情複雜沉思無語，下一行程明皇陵。(4）
明皇陵位於安徽省鳯陽縣城南7公里，蚌埠市中心東南15公里，明皇陵是明太祖朱元璋父母和兄嫂的陵寢。
【明皇陵】
家墳始建於1366年(元順帝至正26年)，兩年後的1368年朱元璋成為明朝的開國君主，廟號太祖，年號洪武。
洪武12年(1379年)家墳擴建為陵園，佔地2萬畝，有三道城牆圍䕶。園內宮闕殿宇森嚴壯麗，迄今已有650餘年。
陵前有近200公尺的一條「神道」，兩旁立32對石像及皇陵碑、無字碑各一，碑高20餘尺，均有碑亭蔽䕶。
皇陵碑碑文為朱元璋親撰，碑文26行每行56字，文為楷體，額篆「大明皇陵之碑」。首行前41字(無標點符號）為「昔我父皇，寓居是方，農業艱辛，朝夕旁徨，俄爾天災流行，眷屬罹殃，皇考終於六十有四，皇妣五十九而亡。」碑文具浩蕩之勢，石像刻工精美，為歷代帝王陵園之冠，已列入世界金氏紀錄，1982年列為全國重點文物保護。(5）
通往下一站龍興寺的路上，談起明朝帝王陵園建築的事。多年來一直想要進一步了解，始終沒有行動，直到這年2月20日回到洛杉磯家後，找到了一些資料，做了一些功課，終於有了滿意的答案。
明朝治理中國有294年(1368-1661），計16帝（明太祖朱元璋至明思宗朱由檢)，除了太祖在南京建「明孝陵」，第2帝惠帝朱允汶(生於洪武10年，1377年，太祖長孫）流亡海外去了南洋外，第7帝景宗朱祁鈺(在位15年，1450-1464）在北京金山建「景泰陵」外，其餘13帝，在今北京市昌平區天壽山下，40平方公里的小盆地內，建「明十三陵」墓葬建築群。
太祖長子朱標(元順帝至正15年1355年生，明太祖洪武25年1392年卒，在世36歲)，如果不英年早逝，應是明朝第二帝，廟號興宗。太祖懿其為文皇太子，特在明孝陵以東紫金山南麓，以帝王之禮建「明東陵」。
此外朱元璋還建「明皇陵」於安徽鳯陽(安葬其父母及兄嫂)，「明祖陵」於安徽盱眙（安葬祖父母、曾祖父母、高袓父母)，「明顯陵」於湖北鍾祥(安葬世宗朱厚熜父母)，因此明朝陵園有19處之多。(6）
鳳陽城北有一座「龍興寺」，始建於明太祖洪武16年(1383)是朱元璋禮佛的地方。寺口有「三間四柱式牌樓」一座，樓閣三層，中書栁體「龍興古剎」四字，兩側各有金龍圖騰，氣勢莊嚴恢弘。寺院以紅牆圍繞，約兩畝見方，步行一段石板路，見大雄寶殿立於中央位置，五間六柱殿高50尺，兩側為禪房，殿前有銅鑄寶塔香鼎一座高約30尺。文革期間寺院遭破壞，修復後於1993年，由鳯陽縣府禮聘九華山(安徽省池州市境內)佛教協會副會長慧慶方丈為住持，被列為全國重點開放寺院。
入場券背面有百餘字簡介，與正史略有不符，看得不清不楚，好奇有「文明敬香尊重寺規」八個大字。
龍興寺與明太祖朱元璋（元明宗天歷元年1328年10月21日陰曆8月8日生，明洪武31年1398年6月24日卒)有段淵源。
朱元璋生在一個貧農家庭，父母為佃農，童年曾為地主放牛。元順帝至正四年(1344)濠州(今安徽滁州)瘟疫，淪為乞討。經一洪老婦人相助，入「皇覺寺」出家為僧，年方十六。
7年後的至正11年(1351)安徽定遠郭子興等人起兵抗元，朱元璋投奔郭營，至正13年郭子興與朱元璋據濠州，至正21年朱元璋克江州(今江西九江)，漢王陳友諒敗走武昌，此時的朱元璋鞏固了他的領導地位。至正23年陳友諒戰死，朱元璋稱吳王，至正27年吳王率衆北伐，橫掃至山東。次年(1368)克廣東、河南至北京(元朝首都)，常遇春平定中原，李善長等人奉吳王為皇帝，國號明，年號洪武。
皇覺寺建於南宋度宗咸淳年間（1265-1274），經長年風霜摧殘破舊不堪。洪武16年(1383)朱元璋懷念那段依佛為僧的日子，遂於距離皇覺寺不遠處興建「龍興寺」。（7）
「鳯陽花鼓」是一首流行於明朝初年的安徽民歌，曲詞版夲各有不同，皆歌頌明太祖朱元璋功德。有一首歌詞是：說鳳陽，道鳳陽，手打花鼓咚咚響，鳳陽真是好地方，皇恩四季都浩蕩，不服徭役不納糧，淮河兩岸喜洋洋。
「鳳陽花鼓」首次出現文獻是在清朝乾隆年間，有一歌詞敘述鳯陽縣在洪武年間，居民生活的苦況，暗諷朱元璋未照顧故鄉百姓，使他們無法在家鄉安身立命。此說有違事實，值得商榷。
話說鳳陽鼓樓，是一座以鳯陽花鼓為造型的鼓型建築，建於明太祖洪武8年(1375年)，是中國最大的鼓樓，位於鳯陽（明朝中都)副軸缐雲霽街東端，相距6里與西端的鐘樓遙遙相望。
鼓樓由石基及殿樓兩部份組成，石基台高15．8米，東西寛34．25米，南北長72米。殿樓由地面至殿頂高47．19米，也是中國鼓樓中最高者。較西安鼓樓早5年建築（西安鼓樓建成於洪武13年)，至今經過660餘年，西安鼓樓仍然保存完整。而鳳陽鼓樓命運多舛，歷經兩次焚毀，兩次修復，2007年被授予AAA級旅遊景點，與西安鼓樓同。
鳯陽鼓樓前有一廣場，被列為攤販集中場地，各種貨物果蔬小吃應有盡有，成為觀光熱點，我們在此逗留近兩個小時，入夜後回到蚌埠向二姐二姐夫辭行，晚餐後回到酒店，從房間觀看夜景，蚌埠顯得格外絢麗。次日上午改由新穎現代化的蚌埠南站，搭乘高鐵回上海，結束了蚌埠鳯陽愉快之行。(8，夲篇完)
第17篇：墨西哥海岸
之旅
小兒Anderson利用「十．一」假期，上班時間作了一些調整，2015年9月25日自上海返回洛杉磯家中。次日將作一次家庭旅遊，長兒Anthony安排此行前置作業。搭乘嘉年華郵輪(Carnival Cruise Lines)奇蹟號(Miracle)進行一次7天墨西哥太平洋海岸之旅。
此輪8萬8千5百噸，可乘遊客2124人，工作人員934人，長963英尺，樓高9層，航程往返3671海里(6800公里)，停靠三個海港城市，分別是下加利福尼亞半島南端的「卡波聖盧卡斯Cabo San Lucas」，太平洋岸的「馬沙特蘭Mazatlan」，及「巴亞爾塔港Puerto Vallarta」。由加州長堤港(Long Beach)出發，回程再停靠長堤。(1)
9月26日中午我們到達長堤港辦理報到安檢，下午1時30分登船，進住5樓5127室，很滿意這間有陽台的家庭房，航行中可以直接眺望藍天碧海。
下午2時赴自助餐廳午餐，食物飲料近百種，兼具色香味。
下午4時上甲板演習救生，5時起錨離岸，在陽台觀看長堤港美景，船緩慢出港已近6時，浩瀚的太平洋就在眼前。
時近黃昏夕陽逐漸接近海平面，海面漁船點點。一刻鐘後駛入公海，驚艷海上起霧，成群海豚伴船而行，飛魚追逐海豚。
7時後，夜空已顯明月，星星相伴。次日就是中秋佳節，「海上生明月，天涯共此時」，此刻此景「望月懷遠」之情油然而生。
這是我民國53年(1964年)春節，由金門回台探親，夜航台灣海峽，時隔51年再度航行大海。(2）
9月27日乙未年中秋，凌晨五時日出之前，從陽台望大海，月亮仍然高懸在西邊一望無雲的空中。月光映射在海面，出現一道金色月光，遠方有一艘與郵輪反向而行的貸櫃輪，船上的燈光清晰可見，如此海上美景生平首見。
我與妻都有晨間步行的習慣，走上頂樓甲板。從船頭到船尾步行一圈要7分鐘，在船上的這些日子，妻每天堅持走十圈，我的耐力不夠僅是她的一半。在海上旭日東升的時刻，大船繼續行進中，看太陽從海平面跳躍式的升起，有一種乘風破浪，海濶天空，心曠神怡，飄逸凌雲的感受。
中午甫菲餐時，見一位體型肥胖，體重至少300磅的大媽，端着一盤堆得滿滿的食物，排隊等分切牛排。輪到她時，她問侍應生：先生，有沒有減肥無鹽的調味醬。引來大笑，她沒有感覺到不好意思，心平氣和的說：我的本意就是要讓大家笑一笑，在外旅遊要快樂一點才好。大媽心寬體胖，獲得熱烈掌聲。
郵輪上都有賭場Casino設置，規模不大，但博奕項目齊全，老虎機佔了一半面積，全場禁菸，頗受旅客青睞。我們在此停留近三個小時，雖然小賭小輸意興闌珊，但已達娛樂效果。
新聞報導就在今夜七時，將有月全蝕出現，全球最佳觀賞位置，正好在墨西哥太平洋岸。
我們有幸，月全蝕一個世紀才有寥寥數次，百年難遇的奇觀居然被我們遇見，而且又逢中秋佳節。
晚餐後已近六時，登上頂樓甲板，享受海風吹拂，等待月全蝕出現。
準七時，月亮由月圓逐漸月缺，最後月亮完全被地球陰影湮遮。當地球淺紅色的陰影越過月球表面的那一剎那，美艷得讓人窒息，全場一片歡呼。月亮恢復原狀，已是十時。我們在甲板上的一個圓桌上坐下，享受帶來的中秋月餅配以咖啡茗茶，渡過了一個終生難忘的中秋佳節。(3）
9月28日星期一，經過兩天兩夜42小時的航行，今日上午11時到達下加利福尼亞半島南端的聖盧卡斯角(Cabo San Lucas)航程由長堤經聖地牙哥(223公里)，進入墨西哥海域，順半島南下。
半島西為太平洋東為加利福尼亞灣，由西北向東南延伸，全長1250公里，寬50公里至250公里，面積14萬3千平方公里，是全球最狹長的半島。
島上火山羅列，有廣濶的沙漠，連綿起伏的山脈，仙人掌花花香四溢。聖盧卡斯角更有億萬年海水沖刷而成的天然岩洞，千姿百態的海洋生物。與相去不遠的聖荷西德芮卡博(San Jose del Cabo)城合為一體，僅隔著一個金色沙灘，兩城均有濱海酒店，是一處最完美的渡假勝地。
聖盧卡斯角是一個漁港小城，碼頭僅能停靠漁船，郵輪只能拋錨在離岸1公里處，由駁船接駁上岸。
上岸後可以選擇搭計程車繞行小城觀光或購物，也可搭乘小木船作海岸景點遊，遠至拱型岩洞，洞內清澈見底，海風吹拂，可見五彩繽紛的各種魚類四處穿梭。小船停一沙洲，登岸享受草蓬納涼，小徑步道椰林婆娑花香四溢，讓人流連忘返。小船船伕在碼頭招攬生意，每人收費美金20元，物超所值，千金難買。
折返上岸後，在碼頭餐館大快朵頤，各點一道墨西哥美食「香辣魚扒，仙人掌炒青紅椒，奶酪培根嫩烤蘆筍，墨西哥薄餠Quesadilla」。
午後六時駁船靠岸，返回郵輪，結束七小時的聖盧卡斯角快樂遊。晚七時，郵輪續往墨西哥太平洋岸第一大城馬沙特蘭。(4)
午後七時郵輪起錨，航線由西至東，見月光照在船頭，一刻鐘後入外海，海面颳起強勁東風，輪船逆風而行，一小時後遇上由南而北的洋流，行進中的8萬8千噸巨輪也免不了船身搖晃，此時暈船藥派上用場。375公里的航程卻走了11個小時，於次晨9月29日6時，進入馬沙特蘭外海，見海面旭陽升起。7時進港，港區風景優美，40分鐘後靠岸。
從陽台俯看，岸邊樂隊演奏迎賓曲，藝人歌的歌，舞的舞。兩輛沒有欄杆左右均可上下車的三節拖車，輪流將遊客接往入境大廳，憑登船證就可入境。
出大廳，見地面有寛約10公分的藍色指引線，順線而行可達市中心，路經住宅區、公園、商業區。各街口均有志工和警察為觀光客服務，溫和有禮和藹可親。志工穿藍色T恤，警察徒手著黃色制服，均可以英語、西語為遊客解說市況，一個地方如此發展觀光事業，值得學習。(5)
我們捨市內觀光巴士，改以足不離地漫步漫遊方式與這座城市作最親近的接觸，順著藍線走，首先進入住宅區。見道路兩旁綠樹成蔭，石板行人道寛敞，花壇五顏六色四溢飄香，宅第獨家獨院節比鱗次，環境潔靜遠離麈囂。
地中海式的樓房，半戶外的迴廊白牆圓拱紅瓦，花籃吊滿窗前門樑，充分展現出西班牙殖民時期的建築特色。
16世紀西班牙葡萄牙稱覇海洋，殖民地遍及非、亞、中南美洲。在英國清教徒移民美洲大陸前一百年，西班牙人就已經侵佔了墨西哥。每佔領一地就擇地建一PLAZA，立一石亭，以此為中心逐漸形成一個社區，再發展為一個城市。
石亭是政府通告政令和民衆聚會的地方，PLAZA內環境優美有如公園，其外必定是政府行政中心，市政廳、警局、消防隊、郵局、教堂、醫院、市場均在附近。
我們步行至此正是中午十二時，主教大堂彌撒開始，進堂點了光明燈，儀式中領了聖體，感恩天主有如此的安排。隨後進入一超級市場參觀，驚訝有一流都市規模。
墨西哥高山起伏全境由西北延伸東南，北部山區礦產豐富，金、銀、銅、鐵、鋅、鉛皆有，尤以銀礦馳名全球。為了運輸白銀至西班牙，將此一漁港擴建成商港。如今成為墨西哥太平洋岸第一貿易港，帶動了城市發展。清末民初，中國通行的銀元，俗稱「鷹洋」，便是墨西哥鑄造，由此港運往中國大陸。（6)
距離港區以南不遠處有一遊船俱樂部專屬碼頭，可以租賃遊艇、帆船、皮划艇、獨木舟。獨木舟僅能划行離岸200公尺之內，觀群魚尾隨享操舟之樂。其他船艇可至近海，觀賞海豚結隊而行，鯨魚噴水美景。
西班牙殖民時期的每個海港城市必築海堤(Malecon)，至今保養完整。寬敞的海濱步道順海堤而建，百尺之內必有花壇，隨處可見銅雕作品。海堤高於海面數丈，步道低於海堤數尺，眺望大海盡收眼底。
步道外側有禮品店及畫廊，店內専賣土産藝品，廊內展示當代墨西哥畫家作品，並有遊唱藝人表演。我們在步道最熱閙的一段，來回走了一趟，享盡海濱漫步之樂。
海鮮一條街緊靠步道，間間生意興隆。烤肥魚炸大蝦是最受歡迎的平價美食，密方烹調香嫩可口。選擇一家濱海餐廳用膳，海鮮配以墨國啤酒美味無窮。佳餚、美酒、海風吹拂，看遠方輪船破浪而行，幾乎忘了登船時刻，趕搭計程車回碼頭。晚六時，郵輪離港駛往下一站「巴亞爾塔」。(7)
郵輪在夕陽照射下出港，沿太平洋岸南行470英里(756公里)前往巴亞爾塔港。
午夜時分已是9月30日凌晨，航程近一半，是個滿天星斗的夜晚，陰曆十七仍是月圓。剎那間北方夜空閃電不止，在層雲中發出金色閃光，雷聲隆隆驚醒了睡夢，披上夾克至陽台仰望天空，誤以為在北極的遊船上看到了極地閃光。
上午八時郵輪鳴笛，在領港船的引導下緩緩進港。巴亞爾塔港(Puerto Vallarta)是墨西哥太平洋岸最大的貿易兼具觀光的港口，碼頭同時可以停靠三艘超級郵輪，是較遲開埠的港都，港口建築開始於1851年(清咸豐元年)規模勝過馬沙特蘭，近200年來保有原來的舊城，也開闢了新城。
見岸邊一隊原住民著五彩圖騰服飾，紅黃藍綠各色混合編織的長羽頭冠頗像孔雀開屏。個個俊男美女，唱著歌舞著舞歡迎嘉賓到來。
墨西哥原住民佔全國人口十分之一，2020年第一季人口統計是1億2千6百萬人。阿茲特克人(Aztec)是最多的一支，生活在太平洋岸及附近島嶼。
出了入境大廳是一廣場，四周布滿藝品店、餐館，還有一個購物中心。遊覽車、公共汽車、計程車，各有停靠位置。我們選擇搭計程車前往城區，僅20分鐘路程。街道呈網狀規劃，橫街與海岸平行縱街由海邊向山坡開闢。住宅與商區分離，建築物限高三層，進入石亭公園，十里之內與其他海岸城鎮一個模式，仍然是政府行政中心，郵局、警局、消防局、醫院、教，堂、學校、購物中心均在其內。（8)
十六世紀初葉墨西哥被西班牙人侵佔，之前一百年，巴亞爾塔已是阿茲特克人的部落，已具城鄉規模，西班牙人積極建設此地開闢港口發展貿易。
阿茲特克原住民頗有藝術天分，巧奪天工心手相應。精於羊毛織線及彩色細珠組合而成的手工藝品，舉凡花卉、禽鳥、走獸、山水、民俗、人像，唯妙唯肖美不勝收。
羊毛織線為當地名産，細珠原料來自貝殼沙粒製作技術由西班牙人自㨗克引進。十六世紀末這些藝術品，已銷售到歐洲。
上世紀七十年代在此地外海發現明朝沉船，內有包含青花瓷在內的陶瓷品，佐證500年前巴亞爾塔港與中國已有貿易往來。(9)
連續參觀了數家織線細珠手工藝品專賣店後，很有興致地去了一趟漁港碼頭，雖然無緣看到凌晨進港漁船卸貨的熱閙情景，但是午後的交易大廳仍然人來人往生意興隆。
巴亞爾塔是墨西哥太平洋岸的漁業重鎮，魚類之多目不暇給，尤以黑鮪最為出名。
下午五時回碼頭客服中心，路過一沙灘是海龜產卵的地方，八、九月份是繁殖旺季，數萬隻海龜緩緩上岸產卵，頗像攻灘成功的海軍陸戰隊。
六時依序上船，開航時間為八時，但遲至九時半才啓航，出在等候一家二十人旅行團，去了西北方的離島Islas Marias遊覽島上的夢幻秘景Hidden Beach(隱藏海灘)，渡船誤了卯。
在夜色中，郵輪由海岸警艇䕶送下緩緩出港，交互鳴笛祝福。
夜航太平洋往西北方向返回加州長堤，經過15小時的航行，進入下加利福尼亞半島海域已是10月1日下午3時。(10)
下午茶時間到了，我們在付費餐廳靠窗位置坐了下來，人手一杯古巴咖啡，一份墨西哥古拿棒(Churros)四人分食。
酒吧台的高腳凳上坐滿了嗜酒品酒者，見一位滿臉虯髯外貌酷似海明威的中年白人，與其鄰座談笑風聲。
我們的話題轉到海明威身上，從他的長篇小說「妾似朝陽又照君」到中篇「老人與海」，更談到他的一則鮮為人知的軼事。
故事發生在哈瓦那東部一個名為Cojimar的漁村裡。海明威與一位好友常到一間小酒吧喝酒，這位朋友想要測試海明威的文學才華，提出30秒內用六個字就能講出一個故事，他就為這次酒資買單。
海明威略略想了一下，說出六個字：Baby，Clothes，For，Sale，Never，Used。（銷售，一件，嬰兒，從未，穿過的，衣服)。(11）
下午五時我們走上甲板，視野比陽台看得更為廣闊，船駛入下加利福尼亞半島海域，經過卡波聖盧卡斯，隱約可見陸地，預計到達長堤港的時間在10月2日上午七時左右。
下午六時太陽接近海平面，驚喜發現數隻鯨魚背脊噴水數公尺，距離郵輪約500公尺向南行，引起一陣驚呼。
不到半小時居然又見一群海豚結隊在海面跳躍而行，形成一個連一個有規則的弧形，驚艷這難忘的一刻。
每年此時鯨魚海豚會從北極來到暖和的墨西哥太平洋岸避寒產子，海龜大致也在此刻登陸沙灘産卵。
一週來我們看見形形色色的遊客體型不同，膚色不同，教養各異。也遇到過船長、大副、船員和船工，我們和一位來自印尼言談和靄年約30歲的男性船工，聊起了他的海上生活。瞭解到上船當船工，多半是為了家庭，沒有一點耐性是做不來的，雖然每六個月就有兩個月的休假，薪資並不多，可是我們這種粗活，美國人是不會做的。
入夜後星星在閃爍，好似鑽石在天上，半圓的月亮高懸在空中，星光月光投映在海面，海浪拍打著船身，海風吹拂在面頰，這是一個「星、月、海、浪、秋、風、夜」。
曙光露出第一線時，已是晨六時許，不計其數的海鷗尾隨郵輪之後，意味著陸地離船不遠，船將要進港了。
行進中的船隻船尾會掀起一寬條的白色波痕，必定有魚可食，群鷗俯衝奪食的情景難得一見。
大輪船鳴笛了，領港的小船走在前面，大船尾隨，頗像一隻小海䐁領著一條大鯨魚緩緩前進。
長堤港到了，緩緩靠岸停妥拋錨，另一梯次的遊客等待上船。又見印尼籍的船工忙得不亦樂乎，大家互祝身體健康前程似錦。(12，夲篇完）
第18篇：南達科他
自駕行
2016年4月初我與內子飛往丹佛(Denver)探望小兒Anderson歡聚了一個多月。Anderson任職的升陽電腦公司(Sun Microsystems)舉辦了一個星期的新産品展示說明會，換來五天的休假，連同週末兩天例假一共七天，可以充分利用。
我們作了一次自駕旅行，跨越懷俄明州（Wyoming)、至南達科他州(South Dakota)，計兩個州府(Cheyenne，Rapid City)，九個中小型城鎮，兩個世界馳名景點，一座州立公園，一座大山(Black Hills，高2194公尺，懷俄明州與南達科他州界山)，往返1340公里。(1)
5月29日上午九時許，從位於丹佛市北郊的布隆菲爾鎮(Brookfield)家中出發，順25號州際公路北上，路程161公里，近中午到達懷俄明州首府Cheyenne(夏延)，全市人口僅5萬3千人，原是北美大陸上印地安人的一個部落，是一個市容優美環境寧靜的都市。
馳名的州議會大廈(Wyoming State Capitol)座落城東，長方形兩層樓正面近百公尺縰深二十公尺，中央樓聳高25公尺，拜佔庭圓頂建築，相當壯觀，是議會議事及長辦公的地方。建於1886年，竣工於1890年，1987年列入美國國家歴史名勝。
懷俄明州1890年加入聯邦，是美國第44州，面積25萬3千平方公里，人口只有59萬6千人，是美國人口最少的一州。州內印地安人已逾6萬人，佔總人口632萬3千人的2%。
懷俄明州有優勢的觀光資源，是旅遊觀光的大州，全州河川、山脈、丘陵、平原、河谷密佈，冬季滑雪夏季泛舟。
西部Jackson Hole兼具山湖之美有如瑞士，是包括比爾蓋茲、巴菲特在內的美國企業家每年聚會的地方。
Cheyenne以北122公里的小麥田市(Wheatland)，其汽車旅館稱之為Wyoming Motel，揚名全國，是旅客放鬆充電的絕佳選擇，市內有頂級的餐館。
我們繼續北行，經Lusk鎮過Redbird小城，再北兩英里有一小村Small Village，公路邊豎一標示牌，標明人口只有一人，可能是世界僅有。
續行16公里有一處Mule Creek Junction是兩條公路的交會處，也是車隊的休息站，我們在此休憩片刻，竟然看到數隻單峰駱駝，讓人驚喜。
在此轉向東行，黑山Black Hills就快到了，越過山頭，進入南達科他州境內。(2)
埃奇蒙特(Edgemont)是南達科他州一個人口只有762人的小鎭，是懷俄明州進入南達科他州西南部風景區的一個隘口，好似西南奧地利進入瑞士境內阿爾卑斯山下的某一個小城，我們從這裡進入南達科他州。
座車繼續東北行至熱泉市(Hot Springs)，溫泉是這裡的觀光賣點，也是中古世紀長毛象的遺址。
第三站到達普林格爾鎭(Pringle)，距離風洞國家公園(Wind Cave National Park)東行僅9公里。
續北行到達卡斯特鎮(Custer)，這裡是探索小鎮西南黑山國家森林(Black Hills National Forest)的理想基地。其東南是建於1912年佔地7萬1千英畝，全州最大的公園Custer State Park（卡斯特州立公園)，車程僅12公里。
最後來到我們住宿的Hill City(希爾城)，人口僅966人，只有一條大街兩條通往山林可以行車的小路，方圓不足1平方公里，但是佔盡地利優勢，附近的景點有九處之多，其東南方的Mount Rushmore National Memorial（總統勒石像地點)，車程僅20分鐘。
小城處處可見Cabins(獨立小木屋)出租，觀光旺季一屋難求，須預先訂位。一房一廳衛浴廚房設計，設備一應俱全。平時一晚租金美金50元，旺季80至100元。我們選擇邊間位置，便利進出。到達時已是下午六時，至超市採購食材回屋烹煮，享受了一次豐盛可口的另類晩餐。(3）
此行的第二天5月30日，我們選擇距離小木屋不到15公里的Crazy Horse Memorial (瘋馬巨石雕像）遊覽，這是一座目前全球最大的石雕藝術，利用整座山頭雕琢，高563呎，比較中國樂山大佛237呎，美國總統勒石285呎，埃及金字塔487呎，華盛頓紀念碑555呎，高出許多。
瘋馬石雕於1948年開工，比較拉什莫爾山紀念公園(總統勒石頭像，建成於1941年10月31日，粍時14年)遲7年。
至今仍在持續建築中的瘋馬巨石雕像，建成後將有600呎長，592呎高，僅僅頭像就有87呎。四位總統勒石頭像，每座60呎，僅及整個瘋馬巨石雕像的十分之一。(4)
1868年白人殖民者在南達科他州與印地安人簽署了一項「印地安人黑山保留區」的協議。包括現今的Black Hills North及Black Hills South在內，但是白人違反了協議。
酋長Crazy Horse(1843年生於Rapid，1877年9月6日卒於Badlands)為維護族人權力與白人斡旋數年，但被一白人用刀在背後捅死。
美國開拓者曾經問Crazy Horse「你們的土地在哪裏？」，騎在馬上的他手指前方回答「我們的子子孫孫埋葬的地方，就是我們的土地」，展現出印地安人的豪邁。Crazy Horse驍勇善戰更具智慧，被族人視為民族英雄，地位崇高。
在印地安人的文化中，無論男女沒有姓氏，以大自然的生命現象命名。例如飛翔的鷹、站立的熊、谷中的蝶、林中的雀。(5)
1941年拉什莫爾山總統勒石像竣工，讓印地安酋長Standing Bear起了一個念頭，希望在Black Hills尋覓一處山頭，也能雕刻一座他們心目中永遠領袖Crazy Horse的石像，凸顯印地安人熱愛和平、求真務實的核心精神。
Standing Bear決定委請曾經是建築總統勒石像工程師之一，具有印地安血統的波蘭雕刻家史坦尼斯拉夫蘇考斯基（Korczak Ziolkowski，1908年9月6日生於波士頓，1982年10月20日卒於Black Hills)擔下這項重任。
經過長期的溝通誠懇的請求，Standing Bear說出「我和其他酋長一樣要讓白人知道，印地安人也有偉大的英雄」，就是這句話打動了蘇考斯基，決定接下這項艱鉅的任務。
1942年蘇考斯基開始行動，四處找尋適合建地，最後選定Crazy Horse Memorial現址。
1943年起經過5年的時間，有時他帶領著妻子和兒女，走遍這座山，測量每一寸土地，一再組合、分解、對比，最後在1948年開工。
蘇考斯基生前曾立下遺囑，交代律師，他死後拆封。囑10個子女是否協助母親持續這項工作，全由自己決定。結果7人參與3人另謀發展，留下的7人中，有5人獲有工程學士、碩士學位。並且囑咐工程進行，不接受政府任何資金援助，要自力更生子子孫孫一代一代接棒下去，直到完成。
經過50年努力不懈的工作，上個世紀末工程已具雛形，完成頭像部份。聯邦政府曾兩度提出工程補助，均被管理委員會婉拒。僅接受私人及慈善團體捐款，門票收入也是一項經費來源。(6)
離開Crazy Horse Memorial，續往小木屋以北車程約30分鐘的Deadwood （朽木)小鎮一遊。
順385號公路北上，見一岔路口豎立一標示牌，上書Pooralley(窮人胡同)，很好奇竟有如此地名，視線之內有數戶人家，看來不像窮人寓所，我們莞爾一笑。
續往前行，有一騎馬牛仔趕著一群黃牛橫跨公路，雙方車輛均停車耐心等待牛隻緩緩通過長達五分鐘之久，牛仔頻頻含笑揮手致意。
來到Deadwood小鎮，此鎮在美國歴史上頗有名氣，有「西部瘋狂」的稱呼。古老的賭博小鎮充滿了關於放逐者、賭徒和槍手的傳奇故事，人口1284人(2010人口普查)，是勞倫斯縣的縣城，也是美國第一個在印地安保䕶區以外賭博合法化的城鎮，賭場生意是小鎮經濟來源。賭場設備新穎，吸引各方觀光客前來消費，小旅館生意火紅，也是好萊塢奧斯卡金像獎影片《與狼共舞》拍攝地之一。
回程過Lead鎮不久，見一片魚塭(Trout Haven)，標示牌上畫一大鱒魚，可免執照釣魚，種類有Siscowet、Brook、Rainbow和Splake（溪流鱒和湖鱒混合種)，工作坊備有魚具魚餌。我們各持一桿，數秒鐘內桿桿有魚上鈎，魚獲八磅價格不貲，近美金百元，享盡垂釣之樂，回到小木屋分成兩份，每晩均有鱒魚大餐。(7)
此行第三天5月31日，安排上午至寶石洞國家紀念碑（Jewel Cave National Monument)，下午至四大總統勒石像(Mountain Rushmore National Memorial)遊覽。
我們從小木屋出發，順16號公路至Custer鎮，再往西行約15分鐘車程到達寶石洞。
1900年秋天，寶石洞被一對沒有趕上淘金熱的兄弟Frank and Albert Michaud在黑山地區的峽谷中發現。洞口不大，人都鑽不進去，但從洞穴裡冒出一股涼風，感覺好奇，於是和他們的朋友Charles Bush一起用炸藥炸開洞口，驚奇的發現狹窄的通道和低矮的洞壁，在微弱的陽光下反射出耀眼如寶石般的彩光，原來是各種方解石的結晶。
這年10月31日，他們從喀斯特(Custer)縣政廳申請到採礦執照進行挖掘，但一直沒有發現其他有價值的礦産。
於是轉了念頭，何不將洞穴作為一個旅遊景點，說不定可以賺大錢，直到1908年仍然是個夢。
當年美國興起自然環境保育運動，1908年2月7日老羅斯福總統簽署行政命令，將其設立為美國第14個國家紀念園區，最終兩兄弟以750美元，把寶石洞賣給了政府。
這座由地下河流形成的迷宮，洞室一個接一個，錐形的石鐘乳、石筍和厚厚的石瀑反射出耀眼的亮光。
洞穴內的氣溫接近攝氏零度，我們穿上夾克禦寒，撘乘電梯下降百餘公尺，再由步道往下走，深不可測，膽小的人走不下去而折返，我們卻走到了步道終點，享受了一次終生難忘的深度旅遊。(8)
寶石洞經過100多年的挖掘，目前已達310公里，比較世界最長位於肯塔基州西南的馬黙斯洞穴國家公園(Mammoth Cave National Park)挖掘了200年，長600公里，相去甚遠。
隨後我們由原16號公路經Custer鎮北上，轉244號公路東行到達拉什莫爾山總統勒石頭像國家紀念館。
1923年南達科他州的一位美國歴史學者多恩羅賓遜(Diane Robinson，1856年10月19日生於威斯康辛州，1946年11月27日卒於南達科他州)，為了表彰美國立國精神追懷史上傑出總統，建議政府在他的故鄉拉什莫爾山，堅硬的花崗岩山峰，雕刻總統頭像。
經過多恩羅賓遜的奔走斡旋，敦請美籍丹麥裔的名雕刻家博格南姆(Gutzon Borglum，1867年3月25日生於愛達荷州，1941年3月6日卒於芝加哥)擔任這項工程的總工程師。
1925年3月，美國國會通過了他們的建議，經過兩年多的探勘測量，於1927年6月開工建築。
當時的美國第30任總統柯立芝(Calvin Coolidge，任期1923-1929，生於1872卒於1933，共和黨)強調，除了華盛頓總統不可缼外，其他三位必須兩位共和黨一位民主黨。
四位總統勒石頭像由左至右分別是：
華盛頓（George Washington，任期1789-1797，生於1732卒於1799，籍貫維吉尼亞州，第1任總統，聯邦黨)。
傑佛遜(Thomas Jefferson，任期1801-1809，生於1743卒於1826，籍貫維吉尼亞州，第3任總統，民主共和黨)。
羅斯福（老)（Theodore Roosevelt，任期1901-1909，生於1858卒於1919，籍貫紐約州，第26任總統，共和黨)。
林肯（Abraham Lincole，任期1861-1865，生於1809卒於1865，籍貫肯塔基州，第16任總統，共和黨）。(9)
拉什莫爾山國家紀念公園又稱「美國總統山」，總統勒石頭像面對一條長達200公尺的石板大道，兩邊高聳的白松、雲杉與青山藍天白雲組合成一幅自然天成的脫塵美景。
50州及屬地（波多黎各、塞班島、關島、美屬薩摩亞、美屬維京群島)的州旗、屬地旗分懸大道兩側，迎風飄揚。花崗岩的牆壁上，石刻各州加入聯邦的年份及簡史概況。
進入大廳右側史蹟館內，陳列著美國自建國以來的歴史文物及歷任總統事略，並有電影放映室，每場皆座無虛席。
同一廳內有一包括有關美國人文、風情、歴史、地理、旅遊、科技發展、國力展現各種書籍及紀念品在內的銷售專區。
石勒山下有一座音樂台，觀眾席可容兩千人，每年國慶及紀念節日在此施放煙火，並定期舉辦音樂會活動。
我們在觀景台仰望山頂上的四位總統勒石頭像，緬懷美國先賢近250年來，帶領全體美國人民，走過建國維艱守成不易的漫漫長路，使國家臻於世界一等強國之林，殊堪敬佩。(10)
此行第四天6月1日，起了一個大早，晨六時順16號公路經Custer鎮東行20分鐘到達卡斯特州立公園(Custer State Park)，入園後順威爾杜夫環園公路(Wldufe Loop Rd)，由西至北，再至東，再至南，以順時針方向折返原點。
卡斯特州立公園建於1912年，面積7萬1千英畝（284平方公里)，略大於台北市的271平方公里，劃分為石林風景區、野生動物區及森林遊樂區。
遊客可以步行、騎單車、騎馬或駕車穿梭在這個大自然壯麗的景觀中。
公路蜿蜒在松柏覆蓋的森林中，穿越狹窄的隧道眺望群山，野生動物與遊客近距離接觸毫無畏懼，體會出人與動物及大自然間和諧相處的一面。五月至九月，這裡是旅遊最佳季節，我們正逢其時。
我們在曙光初顯之前，避開人潮的喧囂，來到大山中的蘇文湖(Sylvan Lake)，享受山中有湖，湖中有山，早鶯爭樹鳴，戲蝶時時舞，吊影千里雁，青雲羨鳥飛的寧靜之美。
時隔兩年後的6月，我在洛杉磯寫了一首七律「逐夢山湖」，追憶這段終生難忘的經歷。
蜿蜒山徑霧中行，
山在靄靄彩雲間。
山雲縹緲無盡處，
崇嶺擁湖湖擁山。
追夢湖山長相在，
湖隱山水女羅衫。
此景只應天上有，
茵夢湖裏憶當年。
文後加註：兩年前夏初，與妻兒遊南達科他州州立公園蘇文湖，日出之前雲霧繚繞，恍如置身人間天上。女羅衫：屈原《九歌》筆下的女神，身披薜荔，腰束女羅，縹緲神奇，既美麗又痴情，常在山林間湖水上出現。
茵夢湖：係德國作家斯篤姆寫的小說「Immensee Lake」，完成於1852年，是我青澀年代讀過的一本小說，全書以山中之湖為背景，用倒敍法追憶一對年輕情侶的戀情，文章清新淒美，情意真摯動人。(11)
蘇文湖連接公園三條風景道，針岩公路(Needles Highway)、野生動物環道(Wildlife Loop Rd)及鐵山公路(Iron Mountain Road)。
我們由環園公路(Wldufu Loop Rd)駛入針岩公路，進入超過20億年北美最古老的岩石山區。高塔般的岩石群山連綿不斷，隧道一個接一個，鐵山公路上的隧道可以清楚的眺望總統山的勒石頭像，一座自然天成高聳入雲的花崗岩狹窄石山，頗像一根針的針眼(Needles Eye)。
山中任何一個角度都可取景拍照，點㸃山林小屋、草原、牧場盡收眼底。如此雲淡天高藍天如洗，光彩奪目萬般柔情，超然脫俗恬淡之美的世外桃園，令人沉醉。（12)
卡斯特州立公園的森林面積約佔全境三分之一，分佈在87號及753號公路兩旁，公園西側二哩之遙就是黑山國家森林公園，集林山湖水草原之盛。露營者結隊入山林小徑，或徒步或騎馬或騎驢各有情趣，觀翠綠松柏看遍山野花，聽百鳥爭鳴。遠處的梅花鹿、灰獾(Badger），近處的麋鹿、野兔，隨時可見。入深山有黑熊、美洲豹、小野狼(Coyotes，南達科他州的別名又稱小野狼之州）。
花卉有珍貴的白頭翁花（Pasquale Flower，州花)、闊葉紫宛(Leafy Aster)、Indian Paintbrush(一種紅色灌樹花)、Columbine(五瓣，外紫內白，花蕊黃)。
林中更有珍奇鳥類，不常見的有頸環雉（Chinese Ring-Necked Pheasant，州鳥)、掌葉白頭翁、藍雀、白頭鷲、鷦鷯(e Bird，又叫巧婦，一種小鳥)。
南達科他州的座右銘是「在上帝之下，由人民管理」(Under God，The people rule)。(13)
卡斯特州立公園東北的Peter Norbeck Visitor Center(彼德諾貝克遊客中心)三面山林一面草原，風景秀麗林木扶疏花香鳥鳴，是一處河川、飛瀑、流泉、草坪、牧場、酒店具有的渡假中心。
遊客中心建於1925年，創辦人Perter Norbeck(1870年8月27日生於南達科他州Clay County，1936年12月20日卒於南達科他州Redfield)曾任南達科他州聯邦參議員，被譽為「卡斯特州立公園之父」，遊客中心為觀光客提供了一個悠遊舒適的渡假環境。
遊客中心南邊的養馬場，也是馬種培育中心，多數用於牧牛、馱重、賽馬。有一種阿帕盧薩馬(Appaloosa)性情溫順，精靈聰慧，耐力速度兼具，白色身軀黑色斑點，是馬乳的來源，每匹約在美金三千元左右。
還有一種夸特馬(Quarter)用於賽馬，每匹可賣美金10萬元，如獲賽馬冠軍，身價超過百萬。
所有品種，犢仔誕生即可站立，十分可愛。這裡也培養了一些小驢，用於山區載重及遊客遊騎觀景。(14)
我們續往野生動物保護區大草原觀看動物，小河、小湖、低丘、樹林、青草，提供了一個最佳棲息地。
這裡是北美野牛(Buffalo)最大的培育中心，建園初期1914年不到百頭，繁衍至今已有1300多頭。經過長時間與人類的接觸，野牛、麋鹿、梅花鹿、叉角羊、土狼、土拔鼠，自由自在地在此活動。
園內的公路及步道，或駕車或騎馬或步行各得其樂，均可與這些動物近距離接觸。
我們被成群的土拔鼠吸引，這種俗稱「大草原小狗」土黃色酷似松鼠，如小狗一般的小尾巴，學名叫Prairie Dog，三五成群在草原上覓食和曬太陽，尤其是拱着兩隻小手站立的姿勢十分可愛。
幸運難得的是，目睹一群至少有200餘頭的野牛遷徙居所到達新草原。一頭壯碩的野牛走在前面應是領隊，犢牛走在中間，隊形有條不紊，頗似行軍的部隊。
數頭小牛犢走到公路邊，卻落了隊，我們停車等候通過，並揮手示意讓小牛先行。豈料領頭的小牛一再搖頭不走，反而有意禮讓我們。看到這一幕讓我們驚訝，更讓我們感動。
每年入秋，山頭黃紅參半的樹林，染滿了整個山谷，也是旅遊旺季。九月最後一個星期五，是一年一度的圈牛節，鼓聲響起整個大地隆隆作響，上千頭的Buffalo呼嘯而過，被牛仔們驅趕至牛欄。壯觀場面引來數萬旅客觀看，感受到這裡的旅遊特色，體驗一下正宗的牛仔文化。
在夕陽餘暉之下，我們離開了大草原，前往Custer小鎮。（15)
Custer這個深山中的小鎭，人口僅2067人(2010年人口普查)，平均每年以1．72%速度成長，是三條公路的交匯點，被評為全美十大旅遊小鎭之一，地位適中，周邊景點近20處，最遠的一處也只有一小時車程。
鎮內有34間旅館，10間頂級酒店，酒吧、飯館、咖啡屋隨處可見。
我們選擇了一間不受酒吧餐館喧嘩的咖啡店晚餐，美式餐點咖啡有多種挑選。內部裝潢雅緻，室外流水噴泉花香四溢，雖然滿座但彼此交談輕聲細語，可聽到樹林中夜鶯的啼鳴。
在返回小木屋的途中，遇見一件很窩心的事，被一輛警車鳴笛尾隨。停車後，警察說道：先生，你超速了。Anderson很納悶，警察補充說：這裡是Downtown，限速30英里。
Anderson一時忘記這裡不是丹佛，警察看了看駕照及車牌，笑容可掬的說道：大都市來的，不罰。歡迎閤家再度前來小地方觀光，可是要看清楚路標啊。
這夜我們很晚就寢，入住小木屋四天來，首次感覺到這裡的寧靜之美。可以聽到林中貓頭鷹的鳴聲，一隻山鷹在月光下站立樹幹，正在打瞌睡，山中的瀑布聲沒有驚醒㸰的睡夢。
已是第五天6月2日，近中午我們按原路回丹佛，再度欣賞沿途風景。愉快的南達科他州自駕之旅，留下美麗的回憶。(16，本篇完)
第19篇：鵝毛飄雪
四月天
科羅拉多州丹佛市，位居美國中西部中央位置，北緯40度與中國北京在同一緯度上，略高於美京華盛頓，海拔1英里(1609公尺)。氣候四季分明，落磯山脈綿延數千公里縱貫州境，景色優美綺麗。數處滑雪勝地世界馳名，是個尋幽探勝的好地方。
小兒Anderson任職於丹佛市北郊的Brookfield (金雀花田)小鎮，這裡是美國升陽電腦公司(Sun Microsystems)總部所在地，原是一片生長金雀花的大草原。
金雀花(Scotch Broom)屬豆科植物，可入藥，中國民間稱其為「掃帚花」或「掃帚草」，曾是蘇格蘭鄕間常用的掃把材料，也是一種染料，花多瓣黃色，也有白色和紅色。
Anderson住在半山坡一處兩層小樓Condo中，是公司的員工宿舍。一幢幢紅頂瓦房依山而建，山下有兩處高爾夫球場，小橋流水樹林湖塘盡收眼底，置身其間如脫俗塵。
2005年4月初我與內子初抵此境作短暫居留，與子相聚共享天倫。週日至小鎮一遊，聞有牛糞味，附近並無牧場，疑惑不解。
經Anderson解釋，這個時節雖然清明已過，但因阿拉斯加寒流南下美國本土，每年四月底才會停止。如果受到太平洋鋒面影響，寒風夾帶水氣東吹，正好遇上高聳的落磯山脈，大山匯聚了充足水份，氣溫一旦下降，丹佛西郊牧場的牛糞味隨風飄至，有此氣味出現，即表示次日有下雪可能。(1)
次日清晨，果然飄下了夲地四月份的第一場瑞雪。先是斷斷續續，後是絮絮綿綿，數隻鴿子不停地從屋簷下的窩巢裡飛出飛進。清晰可見近處坡地上有一群鵪鶉及數隻野兔四處奔跑，好似要在大雪之前覓得足夠的糧食。
早餐後孩子上班去了，我和妻戴上鴨舌帽，穿上防水夾克，沿山間步道，走向山下翡翠小湖。見六隻天鵝四白兩黑在湖中游蕩，逍遙自在不畏風寒。十餘隻鴨子蹲在池畔新栁之下，伸長了脖子直往天上望。面對如此景色，頗有不惹麈埃超脫束縛的感受。
我倆徘徊在湖邊的小路上，任由雪花打在臉上，不忍抹去。走累了，棲息在一處石亭下，瀏覽四週的美景，濛濛的天空中，卻有一隻孤雁掠過。
近午時分雪漸漸大了，小路旁的松柏滿樹銀花，大地一片雪白，回家的步道快要被飄雪遮蓋了。
我們快步走往回家的路上，找尋那座由土黃色石板砌成的郵亭，目標搶眼，那是每天取信的地方。
有了目標，不愁回不了家了。面迎著山風飄雪，竟然興致盎然唱起趙元任作曲，胡適譜詞的那首「上山」。「努力努力，努力往上爬。我頭也不回呀，汗也不擦，努力往上爬」。
好了，終於上山了，也快到家了。再回首看來時路，天空中找不到一片雲彩，我倆的足跡卻深深地刻印在雪花堆中。(2，本篇完）
第20篇：上主恩賜
的花園
如果將比例尺相同的中美兩國地圖重疊在一起，美國科羅拉多州大約在甘肅省的位置上。敦煌、酒泉和科州首府丹佛，同在北緯40度左右。
科羅拉多州以山嶽壯麗著名於世，西部有緜延的落磯山脈，科羅拉多州河源頭就在此山中。多變的地形有高山、大河、高原、湖泊、縱谷、盆地，也有一望無垠的草原。氣候四季分明，公路如蛛網般分佈，高原鐵路行走於山巒之間。丹佛及泉水市（Springs)的機場設施建築風格，新穎亮麗。州內名勝古蹟，保存著原始的風貌以及現代化的管理。
2005年五月初的一個週末上午，由小兒Anderson開車，自丹佛出發，順25號州際公路南下，約一個半小時車程，途經美國空軍官校和泉水市，駛離146號出口，十分鐘就可到達上帝公園(Garden The Gods)登山接待處。
由接待處的瞭望台上向西邊望去，有三座由火山岩形成造型奇特的土紅色大山。其中有一座酷似兩隻擁吻的駱駝，命名為Kissing Camels，驚嘆造物主的神奇，給人間雕塑出如此驚艷的仙境。(1)
「擁吻之駝」右後方有座被稱為「妖魔之塔」（Tower of Babel)的怪山，形似一座尖頂的塔。傳說中有一位國王，建造了一座直達天庭的樓塔，內有地球上各種不同的人類，由其統治，權力大於上帝，結果被宇宙主宰摧毀。
摧毀後的這座塔，分成19座石山。和諧之石(Balanced Rock)活像一位護守之神，安定地凝神看守著這座花園。又如Siamese Twins，像極了兩個連體的攣生兄弟。雙峰聳立的哨兵之石(Sentinel Rock)像兩個站崗的衛兵。
另有巨人足跡，講壇之石，鎖孔之石，睡中巨人，三仙女之石，蛤蟆吐氣石等，都有它獨特的造型。
山中的自行車道順著繞山公路而建，行人步道穿梭在山巒之間，步道旁開滿了各種不同顏色的落磯山花卉。路標清楚地指出行進方向，絕不會有迷路的可能。
瀑布山的七段瀑布，段段相連，從天而降。可乘電梯到山腰或登184階石梯上山，欣賞瀑布。山腳下的美式餐廳，也是觀瀑的好地方。
我們在餐廳裡各享一杯咖啡，觀看「日照香爐生紫煙，遙看瀑布掛前川。飛流直下三千尺，疑是銀河落九天。」那種遇迢迢紫氣，見廬山秀色的感覺。
山中的天氣更是變化無窮，剛剛還是陽光普照，一瞬間就烏雲密佈，不一會兒就下起濛濛細雨，繼之雷電交加，大雨傾盆，隨後又轉為艷陽高照。一時勁風急雨，一時輕風嵐影。在石壁千仞，澗綠山紅，谷中回音中，驀然感受到一股襲人的靈氣。
看著遠方峰巒綿延的落磯山脈，山峰上積滿白雪，山脊下一片翠綠，近處的紅色石林，掠過朵朵彩雲，一群大雁正向北方飛去。天色漸昏，我們走向回家的路上。
回首看到接待中心入口處的旗桿上，六桿之中竟然飄揚着一面青天白日滿地紅的國旗，在黃昏斜陽中，顯得格外蒼勁有力。(2，夲篇完)
第21篇：科羅拉多
山中行
2006年4月，旅次落磯山脈科羅拉多州丹佛，每逢週末假，均外出旅遊。5月初，一個週末上午由小兒Anderson開車，直驅落磯山國家公園（Rocky Mountain National Park)。
落磯山國家公園縱貫北美大陸落磯山脈，巍峨壯觀氣象萬千，面積1063平方公里，是台北市（271平方公里)的3．92倍。
我們由丹佛市區順著36號聯邦公路，往西北方向行駛72英里（115公里)，車行一個半小時，即可到達落磯山國家公園轄內的艾斯蒂斯公園(Estes Park)，路經路易斯威爾(Louisville)及波德（Boulder)。
路易斯威爾被評為全美國最適合居住的小鎮前十名。屬波德縣，建於1882年6月3日，面積20．703平方公里，人口18376人(2010人口普查)。
波德又稱圓石市，是波德縣治，建於1876年，面積65．7平方公里，人口97385人(2010人口普查)，是全州第11大城，風景秀麗安靜祥和，城內的科羅拉多大學波德分校(University of Colorado Boulder)學術思想自由，開放程度高於各名校之上。
車行過路易斯威爾鎮，浮現在眼前的是一望無垠的大草原，五月初的草原上，大地舖上一層新綠，可見牛羊。
視線在遼闊的草原和遠方的綿延大山之間，車輛行經一處放牧區，數間農舍分散其中，隱約可見舍前石板小路。牧場內圈養著馬匹牛羊，還有來自南美洲安地斯山麓的駝羊。小馬和犢牛倚偎在母親身邊，吃著奶啃著草，騎著馬戴著闊邊帽的牛仔，穿梭其間。一幅美國西部的牧野圖就在眼前，身臨其境的真實感受，使人神清氣爽。(1)
駛離Boulder後，漸入山區，車在蜿蜒的山路上緩緩行進，氣溫逐漸下降，剛剛還艷陽高照，現在卻欲照還羞。水氣重了，也起霧了，我們已置身山谷之中。
谷地兩邊是翠綠的山巒，剛發出嫩葉的蕨類植物和一種落磯山紫色小花，夾在山岩縫中，冒出頭來在勁風中飄動。溫帶常綠喬木楠樹、榛樹叢生在山頭。公路左側深約50公尺鈄坡30度，有一條與公路平行的小河，順河而上有紅、黃、白各色花樹迎風搖曳。河邊的野杜鵑花更是姹紫嫣紅相互爭艷，河中的大小石頭清晰可見。
車逐漸爬高，一股薄霧隨風而至，幾滴小雨點打在車窗上。抬頭望天一縷白雲颺過，剎那間失去了蹤影。確有一種「忽有微涼何處雨，更無留影霎時雲」的感受。
出了谷地逐漸接近落磯山國家公園(Rocky Mountain National Park)西南方就是羅斯福國家森林區(Roosevelt National Forest)，兩處的寒帶針葉林古松、古柏直入雲霄。
羅斯福國家森林裡是珍奇野生動物的棲息地，大角山羊、棕熊、麋鹿、山豬、白頭鷹、火鷄、美洲豹，經常出沒。這裡也是北美地區30餘種珍禽鳥類的生活地，打獵人需有執照，才能進入區內，但嚴禁獵殺保育動物。
車行在峰峰相連的綿綿群山中，走著走著前方好像無路可走，山路直入雲霄，原來駛入山頭。朵朵彩雲就在眼前，在陽光照射下顯得格外燦麗，有如奇幻仙境。
下山了，驀然出現一片草原，草原上有座農莊，又是另一種場景。公路有一條支線，延伸至河邊樹林旁的十餘戶農家。農舍後方山腳下有一座小教堂，隔著河由一座木橋連接。十餘頭乳牛和數匹馬，在教堂旁圈養。一輛郵車停在公路旁，郵差將信件逐一投入每個郵箱。這是美國西部典型的農村景象，小橋流水芳草野花，叢樹牛羊農舍教堂，襯托出一種與世無爭，如世外桃源般的地方。(2)
離開這個大約不到1平方公里的谷中農莊之後，車輛再度上坡而行，約10分鐘到達山頂一塊平地，右側有座陡峭的岩壁，約200公尺高，瀑布直落流向一條小河。俯瞰山下盆地，埃斯蒂斯公園小鎮(Estes City)盡收眼底。
下山後沿埃斯蒂斯湖(Lake Estes)進入小鎮，湖邊松柏密佈。遠山、近丘、碧湖，由南至北層次分明。近處山坡一幢幢小樓，紅瓦白牆獨立而建。湖邊釣客在樹蔭下，或站或坐，注視著魚竿的浮動。繞湖的步道及自行車道，行人漫步騎士穿梭。
小鎮與湖均在埃斯蒂斯公園(Estes Park)範圍內，埃斯蒂斯湖溢出兩條小河，小鎮沿河而建，既現代又傳統，兩條幹線馬路商店林立，皆為兩層樓建築。鎭内有高爾夫球場一座，五星級酒店一間，小客棧無數。居民好客有禮，親切友善，平實純樸。
河堤之上有出租小木屋，陳設典雅套房式建築，遊客可自行炊食。楓樹順河而植數百公尺，秋紅美景令人陶醉。木橋橫跨兩岸，橋頭紅色水車不停轉動，漫步其間有如置身桃源畫中。(3)
小鎭的商店、超市、餐館、酒吧，營業至午夜，觀光客、背包客人來人往，霓虹燈閃爍，越夜越美麗。建於1917年4月17日的埃斯蒂斯公園(Estes Park)就在附近，可見露營者圍篝火而歌舞，享盡山林之樂。
藝品店是引人佇足的地方，主街上近十家之多。印地安人的木雕、石雕，或動物或花卉或山景，雕工精細唯妙唯肖。落磯山的各色礦石晶瑩剔透，製成的項練、首飾物美價廉，生意火紅。
小餐館頗具特色，可以享受到落磯山的野味佳餚，山羊、花鹿、山豬、野兔、野牛。其中學名叫Buffalo的野牛，肉質細嫩，做出的牛排佐以紅酒或啤酒，真是人間美味。
小鎮東北，海拔2250公尺，有一間維多利亞式的五星飯店The Stanley Hotel，開業於1909年，紅色屋頂白色牆壁，樓三層，地下一層，全木製家具裝潢古典，背面是綿綿山巒，面對草原小湖，小河潺潺。美國老羅斯福總統曾多次在此留宿，好萊塢也數次以這間飯店為場景，拍攝電影。
我們在這個山靈水秀的落磯山國家公園登山小鎮停留一宿，次日凌晨看旭陽升起，見山頭浮雲飄動，大雁掠過了天空，遠方木屋內的燈火還亮著，早起的垂釣客走向湖邊，自行車道及步道上，有了早起的運動者，登山客也整裝待發進入國家公園，攬盡山林之盛。小鎮留下了我們的足跡及美好難忘的回憶，我們駛往回家的路上。(4，夲篇完)
第22篇：巴拿馬
大連省原住民之鄉
1998年5月，我與妻獲得美國綠卡辭去工作，於10月底赴休士頓與Anthony及Anderson團聚。
8月下旬一個週末，相約與老友黃益明兄會同一位綽號叫Tortolo（斑鳩)的印地安原住民，作一次兩天兩夜的大連省（Darien)之旅。
1992年經益明兄介紹我們認識了Tortolo，這年1月大家一起到過位於巴拿馬省東南方Lago Bayano湖邊小鎮Canita山上Tortolo的家中拜訪。
這次與老朋友重逢，並請他作嚮導，前往他的原鄉大連省遊覽，頗感愉快。驚奇的是，益明兄這位土生土長的華裔，60餘年來還沒有去過大連。(1）
1998年8月22日星期六上午大約10時左右，我們相約在El Dorado Centro Comercial (黃金購物中心)會合，由Tortolo駕駛一輛SUV越野車，開始我們的大連省之遊。
巴拿馬的地形酷似一隻向西遊走的大龍蝦，大連省是其蝦尾部份。
大連省東北與Comarca Kuna Yala特區(原San Blas)為鄰，西北與西南面對太平洋，東南及南方是哥倫比亞共和國。面積1萬1千零91平方公里，是巴拿馬共和國(面積7萬5千517公里)的15%，也是最大的一個省。首府帕爾馬(La Paima)面對巴拿馬灣（Bahia de Panama)，也是巴拿馬的一個商港。
大連省人口20萬3千人，佔全國人口(407萬，2018)的5%。省內有印地安居民區3處，屬Kuna族，人口約10萬9千人，全國印地安人的45%。
我們首站是巴拿馬省的Chepo鎭，全程60公里，混凝土路面，是泛美公路巴拿馬境內最好的一段。
Chepo鎭是巴拿馬稻米產銷中心，品質優良頗富彈性，在泰國米之上，與泰國稻米産區在同一緯度。(2）
巴拿馬共和國是一個兩面陸地兩面海洋的地峽國家，Panama一詞出於印地安語，意思是有豐富的魚、花、蝴蝶和森林的地方，大連省具有Panama一詞的代表性。除此之外還有大河、岩石海岸、沙灘、沼澤、窪地、紅樹林、高山和熱帶雨林。
大連的熱帶雨林孕育著奇異的野生植物，大山叢林中更有大批珍貴的野生走獸爬蟲和稀有鳥類，幾乎沒有受到任何外界的干擾。
大連還是香蕉、甘蔗、可可豆的生産地，是主要農產輸出品。礦產資源，金、銀、銅、鐵、汞、石油藴藏量豐富。銅礦儲量超過兩億噸，排名世界第四，大部分均未開採。
此行第二站是Canita小鎭，從Chepo到此地有28公里，已是碎石子路面，這是我們第三次來到這裏。第二次是在1996年8月，我與妻卻當了嚮導，陪同內兄吳光定僑務秘書的繼任人鄧毅雄，來此觀光一番，而且介紹了一對開雜貨舖的華裔鄭姓夫婦給他認識。
Chepo及Canita是泛美公路通往大連省必經之地，此行我們順著泛美公路而行。
泛美公路起點在美國阿拉斯加州第二大都市費爾班克斯(Fairbanks)經加拿大入美國、墨西哥至中美洲，通過巴拿馬大連省延伸至南美洲阿根廷的火地島(Tierra del Fuego，近合恩角)，全長2萬6千公里，連接17國，可繞行赤道一週。(3）
來到Canita小鎮已是下午三時左右，Tortolo把我們送往1992年曾有一面之緣，他的好友綽號叫野狼(Lobo）開的小客棧裡休息。車留客棧，改騎壯馬上山回家看望家人，次日清晨回來，大家繼續行程。
客棧位於公路旁，附設餐館，近鄭姓華人經營之雜貨舖。客棧閙中取靜，東鄰一條大河，源起巴拿馬省中部大山，流入巴拿馬灣，面對盛產龍蝦的Isla Chepillo島。龍蝦經由原住民的獨木舟運往沿河各部落、村莊、小鎮出售。
獨木舟用一根完整的大樹幹手工製成，製作簡單，不易進水，操作方便，多以紫檀木為材料，視樹幹大小，製成單人或雙人以載貨為主的小舟。
我們邀約鄭氏夫婦至客棧敘舊並用晚餐，餐館遠近馳名，可供山珍野味，尤以油炸去骨除臟的美洲蜥蜴（Iguana)受人青睞，外酥內嫩，視為極品美味。鄭氏夫婦帶來一道用中藥煲製而成的鱷魚肉羹，味香甜過於鷄汁，肉嫩滑入口即化更勝於鷄肉。我們深聊近午夜，有意興未盡之感。(4）
次日清晨六時不到Tortolo就來到客棧，共用早餐後續往巴拿馬國境內泛美公路終點，大連省Yaviza鎮，全程196公里。要經過綿延的山區，山谷、河川、原住民村莊部落。
從客棧出發，車行不到5公里，進入Lago Bayano湖，湖分南北兩部份，南湖像一尾水中遊走的金魚，北湖形似空中飛行的大龍。兩湖之間有一條長僅3公里的水道連接兩湖，一座鐵橋貫穿水道。附近的水庫，提供周邊農村的灌溉用水。南湖中小島無數，被形容為百島之湖，湖中西南有一高地，面積佔全湖八分之一。全湖風景秀麗，有山湖之靈氣。
大湖地形層次分明，湖週被丘陵環繞，依序是近低遠高的山區，山中可見急湍、流泉、飛瀑。
獨木舟是山區通往湖區的交通工具，山中小徑可行馬匹。
湖岸的魚蝦養殖場也是觀光景點，養殖技術來自中華民國漁技團。(5）
車過Bayano䥫橋逐漸進入山區，到了省界小鎮Aguafria(冷水鎮)。我們經由一條僅能容納一輛汽車通行的小路，來到一個印地安部落，Tortolo引領我們去參觀手工製品Mola及巴拿馬帽(Sombrero)的製作過程。
一個面積約有50個台灣坪的工作坊內，有十餘名中年婦女正在工作。這裡的負責人是一位年過半百已是祖母級，綽號叫Violeta(紫羅蘭)的原住民，她是Tortolo的小學同學，兩人見了面高興得擁抱起來，同時說出：No te vi hace mucho tiempo(很久沒見了)。Tortolo介紹我們與她認識，受到親切招待，還拿出親手調製的土著水果飲料給我們分享，味甘潤喉久留芳香，我們聽她仔細解說製作過程。
巴拿馬莫拉(Mola)是一種用花鳥魚蟹圖案，透過布層堆疊，鋸齒紋路，等寛線條，表現出的手工刺繡。Mola一詞在古納族（Cuna)語中，意思是服飾或是村衫。
巴拿馬帽是一種用托奎拉(Toquila)植物的纖維，以手工編織成的草帽，風行世界歴久不衰。(6)
離開冷水鎮進入大連省境內，順平原河(Rio Sabana)南下，至Meteti鎮，全長50公里，至此行終㸃Yaviza鎮，尚有51公里。
一出冷水鎮，即見廣濶草原，牛羊悠遊其間。過Santa Fe又是另一景觀，逐漸進入山區和森林區，山區呈峽谷地形，從東北的Uana鎭至Yaviza鎭，共有大小河川20多條。
近Santa Fe遇一山谷，有一小徑汽車可以通行。Tortolo這位識途老馬，帶領我們去一個蝴蝶谷參觀。
蝴蝶谷是很多蝴蝶聚集生息繁衍的地方，大連省的河谷地形，造就了蝴蝶一個有利的生存環境。這裡的河谷十分寛敞，花、草、雜木生長豐富，提供蝴蝶幼蟲足夠的食草。巴拿馬的蝴蝶一生就在這種優質的環境中，一代又一代的生息。
大連省的蝴蝶谷分佈很廣，美國德州農工大學的師生，幾乎每年都會來到這裡，作熱帶雨林動植物生態研究，我們參觀的這一個蝴蝶谷，就是其中之一。蝴蝶産卵期，整個山谷萬蝶飛舞，蔚為奇觀。(7）
駛出Santa Fe地勢逐步升高，穿越一山林，林蔭遮天，山花開滿山徑。路過一蘭花培植中心，由部落經營，蘭花採擷自附近深山老林，不乏多種名貴品種，有多種劍蘭、石斛蘭，更有珍奇的猴面蘭、拖鞋蘭。
很幸運的是，看到我們從未見過的鴿子蘭（Espiritu Santo)，巴拿馬人稱它為「聖靈之花」，未開花時如在祈禱中的修士，開花後像一隻飛翔中的白鴿，它也是巴拿馬的國花。
在培植中心的花圃裡，難得看見無數蜂鳥前來覓食，能夠欣賞到牠們飛行的舞姿，曼妙翩翩，是一種意外的收穫。
蜂鳥是世界上最小的鳥類有五百種以上，從嘴角到尾尖只有6公分，如果除去頭、頸、尾長度，身軀只有2公分，牠的嘴就佔了全長的二分之一。羽毛美麗奪目，紅、黃、藍、綠、紫、黑都有，有著金屬或寶石般的閃光，雄的比雌的更加漂亮。
蜂鳥有尖長的翅膀，不但能向前飛，也能向後飛，更能懸浮在空中不動。翅尖一秒鐘能拍動50次，會發出嗡嗡聲。把嘴插入花朵中，吸取花蕊下的花蜜為生。
在這裡我們難得一見的是，一種黑頭、白頸、身軀全紅，舞姿曼妙翩翩的一種宛如鳯凰般的珍珠蜂鳥。(8）
離開蘭花培植中心，繼續向南行。在Meteti鎭泛美公路西南方，我們拐進一條産業道路，車行不到十分鐘，來到一處鸚鵡養育所。主人是一對中年夫婦，是Tortolo唸小學時的學弟、妺，丈夫叫Tallado(鵰鷹)，妻子叫Valonia(守護河谷的女神)。
養育所位於住屋旁，在一個小樹林裡圍蓋一座面積約100平方公尺的露天屋。屋內保存樹叢，用石板砌成高約50公分的圍牆，以鐵絲網延伸20公尺至屋頂，屋頂以魚網覆蓋，為鸚鵡提供了一個舒適的自然環境。
鸚鵡捕捉於小鎮東方約10公里的深山中，並擷取鳥蛋孵化。鸚鵡的外形特徴顯著，容易辨識，大都有一身鮮艷的羽毛有下彎鉤狀的大喙，大大的頭，短短的頸，舌頭厚而有肉。雙腳各有四趾，兩前兩後，利用趾功攀爬樹木和抓取食物。最常見的是繁殖力很強的黃頭鸚，有大有小。小黃鸚鵡很討喜，可以養在鳥籠裡。
鸚鵡會模仿人講話，但並非全部。有一種金鋼鸚鵡，體型大，從頭到尾全身通紅。眼睛至嘴呈黃色，很珍貴，可養在家裡，但不宜關在鳥籠內，學人話學得很像。
兩夫婦還有兩英畝山坡地，種植可可豆，孵育鸚鵡反而是副業。
1994年10月間，Tollado夫婦曾與一組山友入大山賞鳥，驚艷遇見角鷹(Harpia Harpyia)，又稱哈比鷹，是巴拿馬的國鳥，身長約一公尺，展翅時可達兩公尺，巴拿馬國徽上的展翅大鷹，就是這種鳥。(9）
告別了Tallado夫婦績往南行，在前往Yaviza(亞維薩)中途，到達Canglon。這裡是大連省的木材集散地，廣濶的森林區內，有數條大河由San Blas山區向西南流，滙於Rio Tuira大河，經首府La Palma出海，這是一條運輸木材的便㨗通道。
亞維薩西方的國家森林保護區(Reserva Forestall Canglon)面積256平方公里，相當於台北市的面積，內藏熱帶雨林喬木，株株高約20米至30米。有極為珍貴的小葉紫檀木、楠木、紅檜，已被國家列為禁伐樹木。我們路過而未入，了解於Tallado的解說。(10)
Canglon至Yaviza是此行最後一程，約25公里，車行30分鐘。Yaviza是一個典型的原住民小鎮，在面積不過25平方公里的範圍內，可以體驗一下原住民的生活方式，從食、衣、住、行到娛樂活動。
一條長約百公尺寬約八公尺的馬路，通過小鎭中心，馬路兩旁混雜著住屋和商店，多為平房，最多只有一層樓，有些平房以鐵皮為屋頂。雜貨店、小食舗、藝品攤都有，還有一間小客棧。
Yaviza被深山、森林、河川圍繞，是三條大河的滙流處。出了小鎮，又是另一種景觀。
我們來到一處闢為碼頭的河浦沙灘，見數艘運載果蔬、山禽、鮮花的木船靠岸，由接馭貨車分銷至泛美公路沿線各鄉鎮都市。
碼頭也是遊船的停靠站，由機動木船將觀光客載往大河對岸的文化村。除了享受原住民美食外，更經歷了生平第一次與半裸上身的年輕男女舞者，隨其歌聲共舞。
在這裡可以享受到騎馬之樂，走過搖擺的索橋，獨木舟划行河面，兒童戱水河邊。難得一見的是，用棕櫚樹葉製成的長串草亭美景和河岸邊的吊角樓。一處毫無俗麈喧囂的世外桃園，就在眼前。
Yaviza是2萬6千公里的泛美公路，在巴拿馬境內的中止站。再往南是一條源自哥倫比亞界山的大河Rio Tuira，縱深約50公里，兩岸延伸由東北至西南長約80公里，覆蓋面積約3千5百平方公里，被形容是地球上與世隔絕的地方之一，稱為大連地塹(Darien Gap)。
這個地塹是整條泛美公路，迄今仍然無法穿越的一段，沒有道路，沒有足跡，佈滿荊棘沼澤樹叢，處處可見毒蛇鱷魚，也是毒梟交易的地方。
我們在Yaviza小鎭，停留的時間也最久，暢遊了這中美洲大山中的印地安原始部落。雖然它受到現代文明的影響，但仍然不失其樸實的原貌。趁太陽落山之前，回到Canita小鎭。(11）
也許是上主的恩典，我們被一樁印地安人正在進行的婚禮吸引住，機會難逢不能錯過。在Tortolo的解說下，我們這些不速之客，以愉快的心情，參加了婚禮，受到親切接待，我們舉杯敬上一杯喜酒，為新人祝福，因而耽擱行程，延後了兩個小時出發。
這天是個峨眉月東升西落的晚上，我們返回巴京的路上。月亮從山巒間逐漸升起，星星搶在月亮之前佈滿夜空。我們翻山越嶺，橫跨河川，途經大湖，戴月披星，陶醉在這寧靜的夜晚。
青天有月來幾時，我今停杯一問之。人攀明月不可得，月行卻與人相隨。不知不覺我們到了Canita的小客棧了。(12）
這天晚上我們仍然下榻小客棧，Tortolo趁著回程再度回家探望，並邀請我們次日上午由其好友客棧棧主Lobo陪同，繼1992年1月之後，相隔六年半，再次到他家一遊。
Tortolo家居小鎮東北山上，山路崎嶇僅五尺寛，入山或步行或騎馬。
Lobo將汽車停在山下一座湖岸碼頭處，並介紹與這裡的負責人認識，也是Tortolo的朋友。我們跨越公路，步行登山約30分鐘，到達Tortolo的山居部落。
山路景色依舊，天空湛藍，白雲悠悠，山泉流水，溪谷小河，老鷹翱翔，蝴蝶飛舞。
Tortolo的妻子Salvia已經為我們準備好一桌佳餚，能夠再次品嚐難忘的美味爆炒穿山甲肉片和原住民燒烤。我們再次與Yortolo的大哥大嫂姪女Vanessa相見歡，Vanessa已從巴京的一所高中畢業，當上部落小學的校長。
我們再一次回到這個遠離塵囂與世無爭的山谷中的小村，享受一次半日逍遙遊，近中午時分我們踏上歸途。
屈指一數，轉眼已是20餘年前的事了。巴拿馬有一句名言：「喝過巴拿馬水的人，必定會再回來。」意味著這裡的好山好水，會讓人懷念。(13，本篇完)
寫在《羈旅雁鳴》
書後
2003年5月1日，Anthony與Anderson兄弟倆合資買下洛杉磯縣El Monte市Maxson路現址，面積近兩萬立方英尺的獨立屋。這是1980年移民海外，23年來首次有了自己的房子。
我與妻賦閒在家過著退休生活，將這塊住屋在既有的花草樹木及泳池上，再加美化一番，提供了一個閲讀書寫的舒適環境。
我臆想能否仿效名人一般，試著寫寫回憶錄。一來打發時間，二來留給孩子一點日後可以追思的文字紀錄。
父親為我從台北寄來25格24行一頁600字，可以寫30萬字的稿紙，開始我追夢作家的寫作生活。
我塗鴉了兩年，改了又改，塗了又塗，居然完成了我的第一部有10萬字的書稿。書寫的是來自父母的口述及自己記憶中的童年。
父親為書取名為「十年流離看山河」，母親卻取名為「江山風雨」，我選擇了「江山風雨」。
简介中原为英文的部分由 AI（Claude）于 2026 年 11 月译成中文，尚未经作者审阅。作者的中文原文保留繁体字。
三册原 PDF 共有 81 个字因字体缺字而无法显示，本页已根据上下文补上，可能有出入。
本文保留原文的繁体字。
Contents目錄目录 (9)
第15篇：龍蟠虎踞
石頭城
2016年2月12日星期五，中國大陸仍在春節長假之中，我們作了一次三天兩夜的南京行。
南京位於江蘇省西南方，長江與秦淮河交會處，是江蘇省的省會，原是中華民國在大陸時期的十二院轄市之一。
三國時（西元229-280）東吳孫權在此建都，稱建業又名石頭城。37年後至東晉(317-420），延續南朝宋(420-479），齊(479-502），梁（502-557），陳（557-589）共272年，首都均在南京，故有「六朝故都」之稱。
如果加上明朝前53年，由明太祖洪武元年(1368）至成祖永樂19年（1421）遷都北京，應為「七朝之都」。
上午九時我們赴上海虹橋火車站，搭乘9時42分滬寧高鐵(原京滬鐵路，全長305公里），路經崑山、蘇州、無錫、常州(武進）、丹陽、鎮江，至南京南站，僅需1小時25分鐘。
民國34年(1945年)8月抗戰勝利還都，次年三月，父親啣命復元至瀋陽履新，正是江南春暖花開時節，一家人由重慶出發，經南京到上海，再轉東北。
我生平第一次坐火車，晩十一時南京的夜快車，到達上海已是清晨六點，同樣走的是這條京滬鐵路，至今（2020年）已是74年前的事了。(1）
南京為華夏正朔之所在，民國20年(1931年)6月1日，國民政府公佈《中華民國訓政時期約法》，第五條規定「中華民國國都定於南京」。中華人民共和國建政後，不失其政治文化中心之地位，視為一線國際大都市。
南京市以雄偉、秀麗、清幽著稱，鍾山聳立於東，長江縈繞於西，雨花台屏障於南，棲霞諸山綿亙於北，夙有「鍾山龍蟠，石頭虎踞」之譽。
國父孫中山先生曾云：南京有高山，有深水，有平原，此三種天工，銜毓一處，在世界大都市之中，誠難覓如此佳境。
火車駛入市區，立即感受到那股氣勢雄偉的震撼。心中激動不已的是，這座「悲情的城市」與我們的國家和我的家族，有著無法割捨的情懷。太多悲壯可泣的故事，在此發生。
走出南京南站，搭乘1號線地鐵北上到達新街口，下榻諾富特酒店（Novotel Nanjing Central Hotel)，酒店位於市中心，西有莫愁湖，東有總統府遺址，南有夫子廟近秦淮河，北有玄武湖。餐後，直奔明孝陵。(2）
【明孝陵】
明孝陵位於南京紫金山(鍾山）西南，紫霞湖之西，係明太祖朱元璋（生於1328年10月21日安徽鳳陽，卒於1398年6月24日南京)之陵寢。建於明洪武14年（1381年），太祖時年54歲，至成祖永樂3年(1405年，朱元璋卒後7年)建成，動用軍工10萬人，歷時25年，中間經過惠帝主政4年(1399-1402）。
朱元璋生前選在紫金山玩珠峰下，依山傍水，佈局宏大風水寳地為其陵墓，是經過深思熟慮嚴謹設計的。一年後（洪武15年)，馬皇后去逝，葬於此陵，謚「孝慈」，太祖將皇陵命名為「明孝陵」。用皇后謚號作為皇陵稱謂，天下少有。1398年太祖逝，啓用地宮與馬皇后合葬。
通往陵寢大道兩側，相向立獅、獬、麒麟、駱駝、馬、象六種巨型石雕，並各有四對身著盔甲武將和蟒袍文臣石像，立於陵前。
築陵大臣李新，建議破土動工前，移開孫權(182-252)陵墓。朱元璋云：不必了，孫權也是一條好漢，就讓他在這裡為我守墓吧。
我們走在通往陵寢的山路上，在參天梧桐樹下，邊走邊講。這位雄才大略的平民皇帝，一生金碧輝煌，事功卓著，雖然只換來294年的江山社稷，但在宣揚國威、理學、經世之學、考據之學、科技發明上，對中華民族有著鉅大貢獻。(3)
行程第二站是上紫金山謁國父中山陵，中山陵位於紫金山南麓，海拔270公尺，因山上時有紫氣而得名，又名鍾山。岡巒起伏氣象萬千，俯瞰南京阡陌綠水，平原大川。革命先烈譚延闓、廖仲愷之墓，均在此山中。
中山陵在明孝陵東北，相距8．6公里，二陵之間有紫霞湖。我們搭乘專為登山而設計的十人座電瓶車，抵達中山陵入口處。
國父孫中山先生於民國14年(1925年)3月12日，病逝北平，奉安於西山碧雲寺。民國18年(1929年)6月1日，移靈南京紫金山。
中山陵佔地8萬平方公尺，四面蒼松翠柏環繞，氣勢恢宏，莊嚴肅穆，為中國建築奇才呂彦直設計興建。
呂彦直，1894年7月28日生於天津，清華大學建築系畢業，美國康奈爾大學建築系深造，民國18年3月18日因肝癌病逝南京。遺憾未能親身參加兩個月後的國父移靈大典。他有一位青梅竹馬的摯愛，中國近代思想史一代宗師嚴復(1853-1921）的次女嚴璆(辜振甫之妻嚴倬雲的親姑姑）。呂彦直英年早逝，驚聞噩耗，悲慟欲絕。至北平西郊出家，削髮為尼，法名秋妙。1951年經香港到台灣定居，終生未嫁。
中山陵的設計，仿中西合併宮殿式建築，由入口牌坊經墓道、陵門、石階、碑亭、祭堂至墓室，共八平台，392級石階，代表中國人口有3億9千2百萬。(4）
Anderson在上海工作三年，前後到南京七次，其中三次出差，四次登中山陵，頭一次個人行，後三次，一次與Anthony，一次與表姐Alicia，這次與父母。
我們在入口牌坊前廣場下車，開始攀登中山陵，是一次體力與毅力的考驗。要走一條480米的陵道，登392級石階。
牌坊以花崗岩建造，石柱門楣上嵌國父墨寶「博愛」兩字。
走完陵道前段，來到位於中軸線中央位置的陵門，續走後段至碑亭，正中央豎立長方型花崗石墓碑一座，豎刻「中國國民黨葬總理孫先生於此中華民國十八年六月一日」24個大字。亭旁種植千年杉樹一株，樹形奇特蒼勁有力。
由碑亭通往祭堂的八段石階，全部採用蘇州金山花崗石，從下往上望，只見台階不見平面，崴崴陵寢聳立雲霄。秀蓮遲疑不決是否登頂，平台休息片刻，仍然信心不足。Anderson見狀說道：媽媽，我背妳上去。就是這句話，激發了做母親的信心，為了敬謁一代偉人，決心攀登。中途三次休息，終獲成功。俯瞰陵門，只見平面不見台階，遠眺南京城，長江秦淮盡收眼底。
石階第三平台，西側有一尊奉安紀念銅鼎，高約一公尺，造型仿毛公鼎，見遊客擲銅幣於鼎內，祈求國泰民安風調雨順。
來到最高處祭堂，堂前建三道拱門，長30公尺，寛25公尺，高29公尺，每一門楣上分刻「民族」、「民權」、「民生」橫額，拱門之上刻「天地正氣」四字。
祭堂中央安放中山先生大理石坐像一尊，高4．6米。係法國名雕刻家保羅朗特斯基(Paul Maximillien Landowski 1875-1961)採用義大利白色大理石，歷時兩年半雕刻完成。其作品還有，馳名國際的巴西里約熱內盧基督像。
祭堂與墓室相連，室內安葬中山先生水晶棺遺體，深5公尺，直徑4公尺，外以鋼筋混凝土密封。遊客可在漢白玉石欄桿外，俯視靈柩上的國父白玉石雕臥像。一代偉人長眠於此，深潛默禱國父在天之靈庇佑中華，綿延流長永世永昌。(5）
離開中山陵時近黃昏，撘乘出租車至秦淮河北岸的夫子廟。
【夫子廟】
夫子廟方圓兩公里內，有烏衣巷、朱雀橋古蹟，不遠處有碼頭可搭彩船夜遊秦淮河。
夫子廟位於江南貢院之西，貢院係科舉擢才的考場。南京夫子廟是中國四大孔廟之一，廟市街景合一，在貢院街商圈，集文化、旅遊、飲食、購物於一體。
我們在創立於民國15年的「尹氏鷄汁湯包店」用餐後，漫步至具有1千7百年歷史的古蹟，古道「烏衣巷」，去尋幽探勝。
烏衣巷是三國時期東吳孫權，屯兵訓練水師的地方，因兵士皆著烏衣而得名，到烏衣巷要經過一座石拱橋「朱雀橋」。
唐朝詩人劉禹錫(772-842）曾為烏衣巷及朱雀橋，作了一首「烏衣巷」的詩，道盡了當時此地的繁榮景象。
七言絕句詩如後：
朱雀橋邊野草花，
烏衣巷口夕陽斜。
(斜音：霞)
舊時王謝堂前燕，
飛入尋常百姓家。
東晉政治家、書法家王導(276-339王羲之的叔父)及指導淝水之戰(383）的謝安(320-385）都在烏衣巷居住多年。
世事滄桑，物是人非。走在這秦淮河畔，頗有感觸。南京人一身流露著一股豁達真情，看淡世事沉浮和命運的起落，有其歴史原因。(6)
夫子廟商圈內，人來人往熙熙攘攘，古巷、拱橋、河畔風光盡在眼底。想起北宋（960-1126）時翰林張擇端（1085-1145）所繪「清明上河圖」中，市集的場景。兩相比較，一在汴京(開封，又稱東京)，一在南京，古人、今人相隔850年，城裏城外繁華熱鬧的景象，卻是一樣。
【秦淮河】
來到秦淮河彩舫碼頭，候船的隊伍已有數百公尺長，走約5分鐘到達隊尾，估計有八、九百人。近30分鐘後輪到登船，所幸拿到酒店事前訂購的船票，不然會再等上半個小時。
碼頭對岸有一座建於明神宗萬暦3年(1575)，長110米，高40米，寛8米的全國第一大照壁。紅色牆壁上雕浮兩條金龍，相對盤繞，在燈光照射下栩栩如生。
彩舫有40餘艘，每艘滿座可乘50人。由碼頭出發，經東水閘公園、中華門城堡折返，全程約50分鐘。
秦淮十里，燈紅酒綠，夜夜笙歌，紙醉金迷。臆六朝以還，無數風流韻事，盡在秦淮。
明末(思宗崇禎1628-1643）秦淮有八艷，陳圓圓、李香君、董小宛，名譟一時。其中李香君(1624-1654）、董小宛(1642-1651）身世際遇頗有相似之處。同是蘇州人，都成長於明末清初，天生麗質，精於琴棋書畫，皆有一段才子佳人的故事。
2019年5月，秦淮河已啓動5G智慧形遊船，借助360度VR功能，不必上岸，坐在行船中就可深入看到堤上風光，明清樓台外貌內觀。可想象與李香君、董小宛近距離面面相對，暢談藝文的情景，科技一日千里，已無時空距離。（7)
2月13日星期六，上午九時首站中華民國總統府舊址。
【總統府】
南京總統府是中國近代建築遺存中，規模最大保存最完整的建築群。
其古建築建於三國時東吳建安二年(西元197年)，先後經東晉、南朝(宋、齊、梁、陳)，合計為「六朝宮廷」，也成為五代十國時南唐(937-975）的後宮。
經過八百年的風霜雨雪戰爭毀壞，原有建築已斷垣殘壁。
清乾隆11年(1746)及清同治9年（1870）兩次重建，遂有今日建築格局。民國25年(1936)，名建築師盧炳烈再次設計整建，更具現代建築形式。
清道光年後，曾是太平天國天王府、兩江總督府、江南總督署、江寧織造署及中華民國總統府。
民國元年（1912)1月1日，孫中山先生在此宣誓就任中華民國臨時大總統。民國37年(1948)，中華民國行憲後第一任總統蔣中正、副總統李宗仁也在此地宣誓就職。
這座中華民國中樞所在地，歷史上數度成為軍事進城攻佔目標。1，民國16年(1927）3月23日北伐國民革命軍收復南京。2，民國26年(1937)12月13日，日本軍攻陷南京，執行大屠殺。3，民國38年(1949)4月23日，中共人民解放軍渡江，南京淪陷。
我們在總統府舊址內，逐進參觀，至總統副總統辦公室、會議室及各局處辦公室，會議室內仍懸中華民國國旗及中國國民黨黨旗。
一部春秋史，千年孤臣涙。成敗難長久，興亡轉瞬間。走進這座總統府舊址，回顧民國盛世興衰，頗有一番感慨。(8）
離開總統府舊址，得出租車之便，就近品味一下長江路「文化第一街」上的歴史建築，未下車僅經過。包括毗盧寺、梅園紀念館、南京圖書館、江寧織造博物館、江蘇省美術館、金陵圖書館。
【南唐李煜】
在前往玄武湖的路上，刻意繞經丹鳳街，為的是找尋五代十國南唐(937-975）李後主（李煜，937-978）的遺蹟，雖然遺蹟早已不在，但仍有指示牌標明中國最早的畫院位置，李煜經常邀約其老師馮延巳(903-960，揚州人，南唐重臣，著名詞人，詞多寫閑情逸致)為首的文人群體，在此研討文學藝術。另外還有一個懺經樓，相傳是李煜燒香念佛的地方。
不知此街距離新街口酒店近在咫尺，才知道南唐遺址就在眼前，我們有幸正住在六朝煙水間。
李煜自小就生長在琴棋書畫的環境裡，天生就是當文學家的料。可是歷史開了李煜一個大玩笑，讓他當上了皇帝。
西元975年(宋太祖開寶8年)陰曆元旦日，北宋攻破金陵，李煜與皇后及45位文武大臣被俘。這年李煜39歲，皇后26歲，被軟禁在洛陽，有兩年半之久。宋太宗（太祖之弟趙光義，在位22年，976-997）沒想到這位被俘的皇帝在軟禁期間，卻寫下他一生中最動人，如杜鵑啼血般的文字。如那首《虞美人》：春花秋月何時了，往事知多少，小樓昨夜又東風，故國不堪回首月明中，雕欄玉砌應猶在，只是朱顏改，問君能有幾多愁，恰似一江春水向東流。
就是這首詞，讓宋太宗對他起了殺機，認為他要造反，慘遭毒死，皇后也懸梁自盡。
在中國文學史上，唐詩被認為是文學的高峰，唐亡後，進入分裂的五代十國，唐詩走了下坡。卻被南唐李煜延續了血脈，開創了宋詞的美學地位，影響到後來的蘇軾、秦觀、周邦彥、李清照和辛棄疾等人。(9）
過了丹鳳街，下一個行程玄武湖就近了。車輪輾轉向前，腦間起伏不停。同一空間，不同時間。花開花謝，燕去燕來。一壺清茗，一盤殘棋。從趙光義滅南唐，到日軍殺戮屠城。
【玄武湖】
路過鷄鳴寺，來到玄武湖，一個詩情畫意的地方。玄武湖又名後湖，位於鍾山之西，北臨低丘大紅山，南連公園九華山，湖週30里。
我們沿湖順環湖公路北上，到了玄武門城門外，步行約十分鐘到達湖邊。
浦邊碼頭停泊數艘遊艇，遊客等候泛舟登船。遠望湖中五島，闢為公園。可謂亭榭覽勝，柳條夾道，長堤逶迤，波光漣照，湖光送爽，泛舟垂釣。我們在此逗留了兩個小時，續往「侵華日軍南京大屠殺遇難同胞紀念館」憑弔。（10）
民國26年(1937年)8月13日，中日淞滬會戰起，至11月26日國軍全面撤離上海，為期106天，中華民國戰畧運用成功，兵力移至首都南京，蘇州、無錫、常熟（今常州)相繼失守。
十月中旬，時任陸軍通信兵第一團獨立營中尉書記官的尹季和(我的外祖父)，將眷屬由鎮江遷至南京，安置在其駐地鼔樓附近。
12月13日，日軍攻陷南京的前兩天，是一個下著小雨的清晨，天氣奇寒，外祖父帶著一家人，渡長江至對岸浦口，隨國軍留守處(內戰時期整編為聯勤留守業務署)，遷徙到大後方，之後外祖父返回部隊。
外婆帶著三個孩子到了漢口，得知外公失踪的消息，後來證實在南京保衛戰中陣亡。
我在前往遇難同胞紀念館途中，腦際不停盤繞這段歴史，內子秀蓮及兩個孩子都很瞭解這段歷史。
Anderson在上海任職三年期間，曾四度去紀念舘憑弔，兩次獨行(其中一次在雨中)，一次與其兄Anthony，這次與父母同行。(11)
1985年8月15日，抗戰勝利40週年，中共黨中央決定成立「侵華日軍南京大屠殺遇難同胞紀念館」，擇莫愁湖西岸西水門大街418號為館址，開始興建。
【遇難同胞紀念館】
2007年12月13日，日軍屠城70週年，全館對外開放，一天之內湧入近兩萬人參觀。之後，評為國家一級博物館，全國愛國主義教育示範基地。
館址佔地面積7萬4千平方公尺，建築面積2萬5千平方公尺，展館面積9千8百平方公尺。全館分公園、廣場陳列、史料陳列三部份。
廣場矗立多座大型雕塑，展示「古城的災難」。館內展覧分八大區塊，展出3千多件文物、3千5百張圖片，2百多張照片。
進入展廳沿石階而下，左邊是死難同胞個資檔案室，每人一個整齊排列在檔案架上。緊鄰檔案室有一座高近3公尺長約80公尺的石牆，上刻死難同胞的姓名。中共12屆人大常委會第7次會議決定，每年12月13日為「南京大屠殺死難者國家公祭日」。(12)
2015年8月12日，Anderson南京出差兩天，次日中午辦妥公事，下午至南京大屠殺死難同胞紀念館憑弔。刻意安排如此行程，基於對中國八年抗戰歷史進一步的瞭解。南京，對中國是一個悲情的城市，也是他的外曾祖父為國捐軀敵前陣亡的地方。南京，也是他的外曾祖母及奶奶、舅爺爺、姨姥姥，曾經生活過的地方。更重要的是，他要找尋外曾祖父在館內檔案室內的資料。
我對這個出生在台灣，成長學習在海外的這個孩子，心中念念不忘自己的生命根源，感到欣慰。
他仔細的瀏覽展館內的文物，並作筆記。在死難同胞的石牆上，希望能夠看到外曾祖父的名字。在數萬死難同胞名單中，找尋到一個人並不容易。
也許是上主的恩典，走不到兩分鐘，居然「尹季和」外曾祖父的名字就在視線之內。他立刻奔向檔案室，是否更進一步找到外曾祖父的檔案資料。
在管理人員的協助下，在電腦資料庫中，終於找到了。他心中默禱，此時的外曾祖父天上有知，他的外曾孫來看他了。
回到上海，他以視訊方式，首先報告給當時還在世的奶奶。奶奶激動了，由喜悅轉為悲泣，只見眼涙直流，久久不能言語。(13)
在館務人員的陪同下，Anderson很快找到檔案架上外曾祖父尹季和的資料盒。長11吋、寛8吋、高2吋，製作很精緻的木盒。取出盒內的文件，制式的表格含附件僅有張紙。表格列死難同胞的出生日期、籍貫、性別和事蹟紀畧，簡單得僅此而已。
Anderson請教館務人員，是否可以提供一些有關亡者包括追悼文之類的文件，以充實檔案內容，獲得非常歡迎的答覆。
事隔半年後的2016年2月13日，Anderson陪同我和秀蓮，再次來到紀念館，卻帶來一件珍貴的文件，民國37年（1948年)由國民政府主席蔣中正簽署的「榮哀狀」。主文矜列「茲有陸軍通信兵第一團獨立營中尉書記尹季和於民國二十六年十二月在南京抗戰陣亡忠貞為國殊堪矜式特頒此狀永誌哀榮此狀
國民政府主席蔣中正」
當年Anderson的奶奶接獲此榮哀狀時，曾嚎啕大哭。
我們將榮哀狀(影本)恭整的平放在盒內，並默哀追懷。事後參觀館內展物，約一小時離去。外面起風了，下起小雨。我們按行程來到中山碼頭，眺望對岸浦口，當年外祖父訣別家人的地方。
隨後又來到南京長江大橋(1968年9月建成），1990年我的父母第二次大陸探親，在滬至親陪同前來此橋遙祭。我們結束了兩天兩夜的南京行，次日上午繼續下一行程安徽蚌埠及古城鳯陽。（14，本篇完)
第16篇：蚌埠鳳陽行
2016年2月14日，這天是西洋的情人節又逢星期日，心情愉快還帶著一些離情。上午九時前到達南京南站，搭乘京滬高鐵(北京至上海)動車，過長江大橋西北行至安徽蚌埠。上午10時32分發車，中午12時零7分到達蚌埠北站，行車僅1小時35分鐘。
蚌埠位於淮河南岸，原津浦、淮南兩鐵的交會處，因盛產河蚌珍珠，故又稱「珠城」。
我們刻意選擇北站下車，為的是親眼目睹這座原津浦鐵路上的舊火車站，見證百年來它飽受戰火蹂躪洗禮的那段歷史。
蚌埠原是淮河邊上的小鎮，自津浦鐵路通車駛經此地後，一躍而成皖北第一大都市及軍事重鎮。鐵路給它帶來繁榮，也給它帶來災禍。
蚌埠人常說：蚌埠是火車拉來的城市。城北有一座跨越淮河的鐵路大橋（今淮河鐵路雙橋)，是僅次於黃河鐵路橋的第二大橋。
蚌埠淮河鐵路大橋曾「兩炸三修」，民國26年（1937年)抗戰全面興起，次年初日軍沾著南京大屠殺的鮮血到達蚌埠，為了阻擊日軍切斷徐州會戰日軍的後援力量，國軍奉令炸毀。日軍為了戰爭需要，同年完成修復。
民國37年(1948年)11月徐蚌會戰(中共稱淮海戰役)起，至次年1月10日蚌埠撤退前，國軍為了阻止中共軍南下，奉令再次炸毀。
民國38年(1949年)1月20日，解放軍鐵路兵團進行緊急維修，在炸毀的大橋旁，搭建浮橋臨時通車，共軍順利過了淮河。
民國38年4月20日，解放軍開始渡江作戰，5月1日便橋工程動土，6月30日建成。同年11月16日，南京、上海淪陷後，蚌埠淮河鐵路大橋修復工程施工，民國39年(1950年)7月4日竣工。至此，津浦鐵路恢復全線通車，這真是一部戰爭鐵路滄桑史。(1)
京滬高速鐵路縱貫蚌埠市區，車行由南至北，穿過東蘆山、高鐵新區、錐子山風景區，到達蚌埠火車站。
一下車就感覺到這座老車站頗像一位歷經風餐露宿、風燭殘年的老人，但仍有一股屹立不搖的氣勢。
從月台到出站口，要走上10分鐘，有一種歷史滄海桑田，悽涼沁心的感受。畢竟這座老車站曾經是徐蚌會戰時期，運兵及後勤支援重要的運補站。
走出車站驚喜的是，站前廣場似曾相識，如同台灣鐵路支線的車站，感到親切無比，稱不上是廣場。四週小吃店多於雜貨店，中間有一圓環由攤販圍繞著，有兩個售賣鮮花的攤子，以應情人節需要。
靠近大馬路的這一邊有公交車站，一長溜的排班計程車等待生意。我們在一間麥當勞店解決了午餐，店外有數輛俗稱「包包車」的電瓶公鷄車也在召攬顧客，車資比計程車便宜很多。市內每人人民幣10元，感覺很新鮮有趣。我們選了一輛比較新的車子，司機員是一位近60歲的中年男子，一口安徽口音，我還聽得懂，他沿途給我們介紹風景「這裡是曹山，這座橋是珍珠橋，前面是涂山東路，南山豪生大酒店就快到了」。
包包車在一條小徑的盡頭停了下來不走了。司機員說：先生太太，不好意思，前面就是酒店的後門，走幾步就到了，可以從後門進去。我們這種車是不允許在大酒店正門停留的，要不然會被公安帶走罰款的。
看看他是一位憨厚的老實人，也就下了車，我們沒有走後門，行李也很簡單，繞道由正門進入，這又是一件新鮮事。(2)
南山豪生大酒店（Howard Johnson)位於涂山東路與延安路交會處，在23樓房間臥室的窗前遠眺蚌埠街景，櫛比鱗次高樓林立車輛穿梭如織，很難想像這是一個二線城市，今日的蚌埠已成為古鎮新城兼具的現代化都市。
我們按行程下午至旅遊景點禾泉農莊遊覽，出了酒店右轉往西直行，順涂山大道過黑虎山路接東海大道，車行約1小時到達涂山風景區。
涂山是蚌埠城西一座海拔三百公尺的小山，山腳之下是距今4千2百年前，中國治水專家大禹的故鄉，風景優美極具觀光價值。市政當局遂於2001年規劃創建佔地350英畝的「禾泉農莊」，並在其附近隔著東海大道，成立「森禾現代花卉科技產業園」於2012年建成。
禾泉農莊開闢數座展示廳及生態會所，展示皖北民風民俗並宏揚大禹文化。
森禾現代花卉園，又稱蚌埠花博園，以現代科技研發新品種，推廣至全國各省市自治區。園內有宿根園(培育中心)、牡丹園、竹園、梅園、杜鵑園、玫瑰園及半圓廣場和婚慶廣場。來到蚌埠，這兩個景點不能遺漏。我們在這裡停留了近三個小時後，趕去探望秀蓮的二姐和二姐夫，也是此行的目的之一。
二姐、二姐夫均已離休，住在同一條街（涂山大道)上的「蚌埠玻璃工業設計研究院」員工宿舍內，二姐夫是一位書法家又專精國畫花鳥。玻璃設計研究院研發的玻璃，一直被世界各國高樓建築採用。
我們在一家徽菜館晚餐，二姐挑選了幾樣我們從來沒有吃過的地道安徽美食，蚌埠特色螞蝦、燒餅夾里脊、雪園酒釀渾湯四色元宵。
蚌埠近郊湖、河裡盛產螞蝦，也就是小龍蝦，蚌埠是中國第一個流行吃螞蝦的都市，它的鮮、香、嫩，足可讓人齒頰留香回味無窮。
燒餅夾里脊是蚌埠最具特色的美食，不單單是一種小吃，更是一種平民飲食文化。
雪園酒釀元宵，配方獨特用料考究，有一種「不吃不知道，一吃忘不掉」的感覺。
此夜室外奇寒，從餐館到住家，暢談近至午夜，才結束頭一天愉快的蚌埠遊。（3)
在蚌埠的第二天〈2月15日)上午九時，我們搭乘由酒店安排的特約出租車，由胡姓師傅開車，作鳯陽一日遊，行程包括明皇陵、龍興寺、鼔樓。胡師傅建議增加一行程，順路參觀「渡江戰役總前委」舊址，我們欣然接受。
【蚌埠孫家圩子】
國共內戰時期，中共有一個機構「前線作戰最高指揮中心」，又稱「總前敵委員會」，簡稱「總前委」。徐蚌會戰（淮海戰役)時，此機構設在徐州，戰役結束後，中共推動下一階段攻擊，渡長江直取南京再陷上海。
中共黨中央決定將總前委南移至蚌埠孫家圩子，最有利指揮位置。蚌埠位處原津浦鐵路及淮南鐵路交會處，津浦鐵路終點在浦口，遙對南京僅一水之隔。
孫家圩子位於蚌埠東南西蘆山下，渡江戰役總前委就在圩子內，僅有一條公路經過，地勢隱密。
2004年安徽省人民政府進行舊址修建，2008年12月26日完工對外開放，名為「渡江戰役總前委舊址紀念館」，佔地20．4畝，建築面積1230平方公尺，展覽面積1100平方公尺，為保持原有建築風格，以「修舊如舊，恢復原貌」為原則。
民國38年(1949年)3月22日，鄧小平、陳毅、譚震林總前委，華東局、華東軍區前方及三野司令部，均由徐州遷入，鄧小平親自擬定渡江戰役作戰指導綱領。
4月21日解放軍跨過長江，24日南京失守，5月26日上海淪陷。我們在紀念館內停留不到一小時，心情複雜沉思無語，下一行程明皇陵。(4）
明皇陵位於安徽省鳯陽縣城南7公里，蚌埠市中心東南15公里，明皇陵是明太祖朱元璋父母和兄嫂的陵寢。
【明皇陵】
家墳始建於1366年(元順帝至正26年)，兩年後的1368年朱元璋成為明朝的開國君主，廟號太祖，年號洪武。
洪武12年(1379年)家墳擴建為陵園，佔地2萬畝，有三道城牆圍䕶。園內宮闕殿宇森嚴壯麗，迄今已有650餘年。
陵前有近200公尺的一條「神道」，兩旁立32對石像及皇陵碑、無字碑各一，碑高20餘尺，均有碑亭蔽䕶。
皇陵碑碑文為朱元璋親撰，碑文26行每行56字，文為楷體，額篆「大明皇陵之碑」。首行前41字(無標點符號）為「昔我父皇，寓居是方，農業艱辛，朝夕旁徨，俄爾天災流行，眷屬罹殃，皇考終於六十有四，皇妣五十九而亡。」碑文具浩蕩之勢，石像刻工精美，為歷代帝王陵園之冠，已列入世界金氏紀錄，1982年列為全國重點文物保護。(5）
通往下一站龍興寺的路上，談起明朝帝王陵園建築的事。多年來一直想要進一步了解，始終沒有行動，直到這年2月20日回到洛杉磯家後，找到了一些資料，做了一些功課，終於有了滿意的答案。
明朝治理中國有294年(1368-1661），計16帝（明太祖朱元璋至明思宗朱由檢)，除了太祖在南京建「明孝陵」，第2帝惠帝朱允汶(生於洪武10年，1377年，太祖長孫）流亡海外去了南洋外，第7帝景宗朱祁鈺(在位15年，1450-1464）在北京金山建「景泰陵」外，其餘13帝，在今北京市昌平區天壽山下，40平方公里的小盆地內，建「明十三陵」墓葬建築群。
太祖長子朱標(元順帝至正15年1355年生，明太祖洪武25年1392年卒，在世36歲)，如果不英年早逝，應是明朝第二帝，廟號興宗。太祖懿其為文皇太子，特在明孝陵以東紫金山南麓，以帝王之禮建「明東陵」。
此外朱元璋還建「明皇陵」於安徽鳯陽(安葬其父母及兄嫂)，「明祖陵」於安徽盱眙（安葬祖父母、曾祖父母、高袓父母)，「明顯陵」於湖北鍾祥(安葬世宗朱厚熜父母)，因此明朝陵園有19處之多。(6）
鳳陽城北有一座「龍興寺」，始建於明太祖洪武16年(1383)是朱元璋禮佛的地方。寺口有「三間四柱式牌樓」一座，樓閣三層，中書栁體「龍興古剎」四字，兩側各有金龍圖騰，氣勢莊嚴恢弘。寺院以紅牆圍繞，約兩畝見方，步行一段石板路，見大雄寶殿立於中央位置，五間六柱殿高50尺，兩側為禪房，殿前有銅鑄寶塔香鼎一座高約30尺。文革期間寺院遭破壞，修復後於1993年，由鳯陽縣府禮聘九華山(安徽省池州市境內)佛教協會副會長慧慶方丈為住持，被列為全國重點開放寺院。
入場券背面有百餘字簡介，與正史略有不符，看得不清不楚，好奇有「文明敬香尊重寺規」八個大字。
龍興寺與明太祖朱元璋（元明宗天歷元年1328年10月21日陰曆8月8日生，明洪武31年1398年6月24日卒)有段淵源。
朱元璋生在一個貧農家庭，父母為佃農，童年曾為地主放牛。元順帝至正四年(1344)濠州(今安徽滁州)瘟疫，淪為乞討。經一洪老婦人相助，入「皇覺寺」出家為僧，年方十六。
7年後的至正11年(1351)安徽定遠郭子興等人起兵抗元，朱元璋投奔郭營，至正13年郭子興與朱元璋據濠州，至正21年朱元璋克江州(今江西九江)，漢王陳友諒敗走武昌，此時的朱元璋鞏固了他的領導地位。至正23年陳友諒戰死，朱元璋稱吳王，至正27年吳王率衆北伐，橫掃至山東。次年(1368)克廣東、河南至北京(元朝首都)，常遇春平定中原，李善長等人奉吳王為皇帝，國號明，年號洪武。
皇覺寺建於南宋度宗咸淳年間（1265-1274），經長年風霜摧殘破舊不堪。洪武16年(1383)朱元璋懷念那段依佛為僧的日子，遂於距離皇覺寺不遠處興建「龍興寺」。（7）
「鳯陽花鼓」是一首流行於明朝初年的安徽民歌，曲詞版夲各有不同，皆歌頌明太祖朱元璋功德。有一首歌詞是：說鳳陽，道鳳陽，手打花鼓咚咚響，鳳陽真是好地方，皇恩四季都浩蕩，不服徭役不納糧，淮河兩岸喜洋洋。
「鳳陽花鼓」首次出現文獻是在清朝乾隆年間，有一歌詞敘述鳯陽縣在洪武年間，居民生活的苦況，暗諷朱元璋未照顧故鄉百姓，使他們無法在家鄉安身立命。此說有違事實，值得商榷。
話說鳳陽鼓樓，是一座以鳯陽花鼓為造型的鼓型建築，建於明太祖洪武8年(1375年)，是中國最大的鼓樓，位於鳯陽（明朝中都)副軸缐雲霽街東端，相距6里與西端的鐘樓遙遙相望。
鼓樓由石基及殿樓兩部份組成，石基台高15．8米，東西寛34．25米，南北長72米。殿樓由地面至殿頂高47．19米，也是中國鼓樓中最高者。較西安鼓樓早5年建築（西安鼓樓建成於洪武13年)，至今經過660餘年，西安鼓樓仍然保存完整。而鳳陽鼓樓命運多舛，歷經兩次焚毀，兩次修復，2007年被授予AAA級旅遊景點，與西安鼓樓同。
鳯陽鼓樓前有一廣場，被列為攤販集中場地，各種貨物果蔬小吃應有盡有，成為觀光熱點，我們在此逗留近兩個小時，入夜後回到蚌埠向二姐二姐夫辭行，晚餐後回到酒店，從房間觀看夜景，蚌埠顯得格外絢麗。次日上午改由新穎現代化的蚌埠南站，搭乘高鐵回上海，結束了蚌埠鳯陽愉快之行。(8，夲篇完)
第17篇：墨西哥海岸
之旅
小兒Anderson利用「十．一」假期，上班時間作了一些調整，2015年9月25日自上海返回洛杉磯家中。次日將作一次家庭旅遊，長兒Anthony安排此行前置作業。搭乘嘉年華郵輪(Carnival Cruise Lines)奇蹟號(Miracle)進行一次7天墨西哥太平洋海岸之旅。
此輪8萬8千5百噸，可乘遊客2124人，工作人員934人，長963英尺，樓高9層，航程往返3671海里(6800公里)，停靠三個海港城市，分別是下加利福尼亞半島南端的「卡波聖盧卡斯Cabo San Lucas」，太平洋岸的「馬沙特蘭Mazatlan」，及「巴亞爾塔港Puerto Vallarta」。由加州長堤港(Long Beach)出發，回程再停靠長堤。(1)
9月26日中午我們到達長堤港辦理報到安檢，下午1時30分登船，進住5樓5127室，很滿意這間有陽台的家庭房，航行中可以直接眺望藍天碧海。
下午2時赴自助餐廳午餐，食物飲料近百種，兼具色香味。
下午4時上甲板演習救生，5時起錨離岸，在陽台觀看長堤港美景，船緩慢出港已近6時，浩瀚的太平洋就在眼前。
時近黃昏夕陽逐漸接近海平面，海面漁船點點。一刻鐘後駛入公海，驚艷海上起霧，成群海豚伴船而行，飛魚追逐海豚。
7時後，夜空已顯明月，星星相伴。次日就是中秋佳節，「海上生明月，天涯共此時」，此刻此景「望月懷遠」之情油然而生。
這是我民國53年(1964年)春節，由金門回台探親，夜航台灣海峽，時隔51年再度航行大海。(2）
9月27日乙未年中秋，凌晨五時日出之前，從陽台望大海，月亮仍然高懸在西邊一望無雲的空中。月光映射在海面，出現一道金色月光，遠方有一艘與郵輪反向而行的貸櫃輪，船上的燈光清晰可見，如此海上美景生平首見。
我與妻都有晨間步行的習慣，走上頂樓甲板。從船頭到船尾步行一圈要7分鐘，在船上的這些日子，妻每天堅持走十圈，我的耐力不夠僅是她的一半。在海上旭日東升的時刻，大船繼續行進中，看太陽從海平面跳躍式的升起，有一種乘風破浪，海濶天空，心曠神怡，飄逸凌雲的感受。
中午甫菲餐時，見一位體型肥胖，體重至少300磅的大媽，端着一盤堆得滿滿的食物，排隊等分切牛排。輪到她時，她問侍應生：先生，有沒有減肥無鹽的調味醬。引來大笑，她沒有感覺到不好意思，心平氣和的說：我的本意就是要讓大家笑一笑，在外旅遊要快樂一點才好。大媽心寬體胖，獲得熱烈掌聲。
郵輪上都有賭場Casino設置，規模不大，但博奕項目齊全，老虎機佔了一半面積，全場禁菸，頗受旅客青睞。我們在此停留近三個小時，雖然小賭小輸意興闌珊，但已達娛樂效果。
新聞報導就在今夜七時，將有月全蝕出現，全球最佳觀賞位置，正好在墨西哥太平洋岸。
我們有幸，月全蝕一個世紀才有寥寥數次，百年難遇的奇觀居然被我們遇見，而且又逢中秋佳節。
晚餐後已近六時，登上頂樓甲板，享受海風吹拂，等待月全蝕出現。
準七時，月亮由月圓逐漸月缺，最後月亮完全被地球陰影湮遮。當地球淺紅色的陰影越過月球表面的那一剎那，美艷得讓人窒息，全場一片歡呼。月亮恢復原狀，已是十時。我們在甲板上的一個圓桌上坐下，享受帶來的中秋月餅配以咖啡茗茶，渡過了一個終生難忘的中秋佳節。(3）
9月28日星期一，經過兩天兩夜42小時的航行，今日上午11時到達下加利福尼亞半島南端的聖盧卡斯角(Cabo San Lucas)航程由長堤經聖地牙哥(223公里)，進入墨西哥海域，順半島南下。
半島西為太平洋東為加利福尼亞灣，由西北向東南延伸，全長1250公里，寬50公里至250公里，面積14萬3千平方公里，是全球最狹長的半島。
島上火山羅列，有廣濶的沙漠，連綿起伏的山脈，仙人掌花花香四溢。聖盧卡斯角更有億萬年海水沖刷而成的天然岩洞，千姿百態的海洋生物。與相去不遠的聖荷西德芮卡博(San Jose del Cabo)城合為一體，僅隔著一個金色沙灘，兩城均有濱海酒店，是一處最完美的渡假勝地。
聖盧卡斯角是一個漁港小城，碼頭僅能停靠漁船，郵輪只能拋錨在離岸1公里處，由駁船接駁上岸。
上岸後可以選擇搭計程車繞行小城觀光或購物，也可搭乘小木船作海岸景點遊，遠至拱型岩洞，洞內清澈見底，海風吹拂，可見五彩繽紛的各種魚類四處穿梭。小船停一沙洲，登岸享受草蓬納涼，小徑步道椰林婆娑花香四溢，讓人流連忘返。小船船伕在碼頭招攬生意，每人收費美金20元，物超所值，千金難買。
折返上岸後，在碼頭餐館大快朵頤，各點一道墨西哥美食「香辣魚扒，仙人掌炒青紅椒，奶酪培根嫩烤蘆筍，墨西哥薄餠Quesadilla」。
午後六時駁船靠岸，返回郵輪，結束七小時的聖盧卡斯角快樂遊。晚七時，郵輪續往墨西哥太平洋岸第一大城馬沙特蘭。(4)
午後七時郵輪起錨，航線由西至東，見月光照在船頭，一刻鐘後入外海，海面颳起強勁東風，輪船逆風而行，一小時後遇上由南而北的洋流，行進中的8萬8千噸巨輪也免不了船身搖晃，此時暈船藥派上用場。375公里的航程卻走了11個小時，於次晨9月29日6時，進入馬沙特蘭外海，見海面旭陽升起。7時進港，港區風景優美，40分鐘後靠岸。
從陽台俯看，岸邊樂隊演奏迎賓曲，藝人歌的歌，舞的舞。兩輛沒有欄杆左右均可上下車的三節拖車，輪流將遊客接往入境大廳，憑登船證就可入境。
出大廳，見地面有寛約10公分的藍色指引線，順線而行可達市中心，路經住宅區、公園、商業區。各街口均有志工和警察為觀光客服務，溫和有禮和藹可親。志工穿藍色T恤，警察徒手著黃色制服，均可以英語、西語為遊客解說市況，一個地方如此發展觀光事業，值得學習。(5)
我們捨市內觀光巴士，改以足不離地漫步漫遊方式與這座城市作最親近的接觸，順著藍線走，首先進入住宅區。見道路兩旁綠樹成蔭，石板行人道寛敞，花壇五顏六色四溢飄香，宅第獨家獨院節比鱗次，環境潔靜遠離麈囂。
地中海式的樓房，半戶外的迴廊白牆圓拱紅瓦，花籃吊滿窗前門樑，充分展現出西班牙殖民時期的建築特色。
16世紀西班牙葡萄牙稱覇海洋，殖民地遍及非、亞、中南美洲。在英國清教徒移民美洲大陸前一百年，西班牙人就已經侵佔了墨西哥。每佔領一地就擇地建一PLAZA，立一石亭，以此為中心逐漸形成一個社區，再發展為一個城市。
石亭是政府通告政令和民衆聚會的地方，PLAZA內環境優美有如公園，其外必定是政府行政中心，市政廳、警局、消防隊、郵局、教堂、醫院、市場均在附近。
我們步行至此正是中午十二時，主教大堂彌撒開始，進堂點了光明燈，儀式中領了聖體，感恩天主有如此的安排。隨後進入一超級市場參觀，驚訝有一流都市規模。
墨西哥高山起伏全境由西北延伸東南，北部山區礦產豐富，金、銀、銅、鐵、鋅、鉛皆有，尤以銀礦馳名全球。為了運輸白銀至西班牙，將此一漁港擴建成商港。如今成為墨西哥太平洋岸第一貿易港，帶動了城市發展。清末民初，中國通行的銀元，俗稱「鷹洋」，便是墨西哥鑄造，由此港運往中國大陸。（6)
距離港區以南不遠處有一遊船俱樂部專屬碼頭，可以租賃遊艇、帆船、皮划艇、獨木舟。獨木舟僅能划行離岸200公尺之內，觀群魚尾隨享操舟之樂。其他船艇可至近海，觀賞海豚結隊而行，鯨魚噴水美景。
西班牙殖民時期的每個海港城市必築海堤(Malecon)，至今保養完整。寬敞的海濱步道順海堤而建，百尺之內必有花壇，隨處可見銅雕作品。海堤高於海面數丈，步道低於海堤數尺，眺望大海盡收眼底。
步道外側有禮品店及畫廊，店內専賣土産藝品，廊內展示當代墨西哥畫家作品，並有遊唱藝人表演。我們在步道最熱閙的一段，來回走了一趟，享盡海濱漫步之樂。
海鮮一條街緊靠步道，間間生意興隆。烤肥魚炸大蝦是最受歡迎的平價美食，密方烹調香嫩可口。選擇一家濱海餐廳用膳，海鮮配以墨國啤酒美味無窮。佳餚、美酒、海風吹拂，看遠方輪船破浪而行，幾乎忘了登船時刻，趕搭計程車回碼頭。晚六時，郵輪離港駛往下一站「巴亞爾塔」。(7)
郵輪在夕陽照射下出港，沿太平洋岸南行470英里(756公里)前往巴亞爾塔港。
午夜時分已是9月30日凌晨，航程近一半，是個滿天星斗的夜晚，陰曆十七仍是月圓。剎那間北方夜空閃電不止，在層雲中發出金色閃光，雷聲隆隆驚醒了睡夢，披上夾克至陽台仰望天空，誤以為在北極的遊船上看到了極地閃光。
上午八時郵輪鳴笛，在領港船的引導下緩緩進港。巴亞爾塔港(Puerto Vallarta)是墨西哥太平洋岸最大的貿易兼具觀光的港口，碼頭同時可以停靠三艘超級郵輪，是較遲開埠的港都，港口建築開始於1851年(清咸豐元年)規模勝過馬沙特蘭，近200年來保有原來的舊城，也開闢了新城。
見岸邊一隊原住民著五彩圖騰服飾，紅黃藍綠各色混合編織的長羽頭冠頗像孔雀開屏。個個俊男美女，唱著歌舞著舞歡迎嘉賓到來。
墨西哥原住民佔全國人口十分之一，2020年第一季人口統計是1億2千6百萬人。阿茲特克人(Aztec)是最多的一支，生活在太平洋岸及附近島嶼。
出了入境大廳是一廣場，四周布滿藝品店、餐館，還有一個購物中心。遊覽車、公共汽車、計程車，各有停靠位置。我們選擇搭計程車前往城區，僅20分鐘路程。街道呈網狀規劃，橫街與海岸平行縱街由海邊向山坡開闢。住宅與商區分離，建築物限高三層，進入石亭公園，十里之內與其他海岸城鎮一個模式，仍然是政府行政中心，郵局、警局、消防局、醫院、教，堂、學校、購物中心均在其內。（8)
十六世紀初葉墨西哥被西班牙人侵佔，之前一百年，巴亞爾塔已是阿茲特克人的部落，已具城鄉規模，西班牙人積極建設此地開闢港口發展貿易。
阿茲特克原住民頗有藝術天分，巧奪天工心手相應。精於羊毛織線及彩色細珠組合而成的手工藝品，舉凡花卉、禽鳥、走獸、山水、民俗、人像，唯妙唯肖美不勝收。
羊毛織線為當地名産，細珠原料來自貝殼沙粒製作技術由西班牙人自㨗克引進。十六世紀末這些藝術品，已銷售到歐洲。
上世紀七十年代在此地外海發現明朝沉船，內有包含青花瓷在內的陶瓷品，佐證500年前巴亞爾塔港與中國已有貿易往來。(9)
連續參觀了數家織線細珠手工藝品專賣店後，很有興致地去了一趟漁港碼頭，雖然無緣看到凌晨進港漁船卸貨的熱閙情景，但是午後的交易大廳仍然人來人往生意興隆。
巴亞爾塔是墨西哥太平洋岸的漁業重鎮，魚類之多目不暇給，尤以黑鮪最為出名。
下午五時回碼頭客服中心，路過一沙灘是海龜產卵的地方，八、九月份是繁殖旺季，數萬隻海龜緩緩上岸產卵，頗像攻灘成功的海軍陸戰隊。
六時依序上船，開航時間為八時，但遲至九時半才啓航，出在等候一家二十人旅行團，去了西北方的離島Islas Marias遊覽島上的夢幻秘景Hidden Beach(隱藏海灘)，渡船誤了卯。
在夜色中，郵輪由海岸警艇䕶送下緩緩出港，交互鳴笛祝福。
夜航太平洋往西北方向返回加州長堤，經過15小時的航行，進入下加利福尼亞半島海域已是10月1日下午3時。(10)
下午茶時間到了，我們在付費餐廳靠窗位置坐了下來，人手一杯古巴咖啡，一份墨西哥古拿棒(Churros)四人分食。
酒吧台的高腳凳上坐滿了嗜酒品酒者，見一位滿臉虯髯外貌酷似海明威的中年白人，與其鄰座談笑風聲。
我們的話題轉到海明威身上，從他的長篇小說「妾似朝陽又照君」到中篇「老人與海」，更談到他的一則鮮為人知的軼事。
故事發生在哈瓦那東部一個名為Cojimar的漁村裡。海明威與一位好友常到一間小酒吧喝酒，這位朋友想要測試海明威的文學才華，提出30秒內用六個字就能講出一個故事，他就為這次酒資買單。
海明威略略想了一下，說出六個字：Baby，Clothes，For，Sale，Never，Used。（銷售，一件，嬰兒，從未，穿過的，衣服)。(11）
下午五時我們走上甲板，視野比陽台看得更為廣闊，船駛入下加利福尼亞半島海域，經過卡波聖盧卡斯，隱約可見陸地，預計到達長堤港的時間在10月2日上午七時左右。
下午六時太陽接近海平面，驚喜發現數隻鯨魚背脊噴水數公尺，距離郵輪約500公尺向南行，引起一陣驚呼。
不到半小時居然又見一群海豚結隊在海面跳躍而行，形成一個連一個有規則的弧形，驚艷這難忘的一刻。
每年此時鯨魚海豚會從北極來到暖和的墨西哥太平洋岸避寒產子，海龜大致也在此刻登陸沙灘産卵。
一週來我們看見形形色色的遊客體型不同，膚色不同，教養各異。也遇到過船長、大副、船員和船工，我們和一位來自印尼言談和靄年約30歲的男性船工，聊起了他的海上生活。瞭解到上船當船工，多半是為了家庭，沒有一點耐性是做不來的，雖然每六個月就有兩個月的休假，薪資並不多，可是我們這種粗活，美國人是不會做的。
入夜後星星在閃爍，好似鑽石在天上，半圓的月亮高懸在空中，星光月光投映在海面，海浪拍打著船身，海風吹拂在面頰，這是一個「星、月、海、浪、秋、風、夜」。
曙光露出第一線時，已是晨六時許，不計其數的海鷗尾隨郵輪之後，意味著陸地離船不遠，船將要進港了。
行進中的船隻船尾會掀起一寬條的白色波痕，必定有魚可食，群鷗俯衝奪食的情景難得一見。
大輪船鳴笛了，領港的小船走在前面，大船尾隨，頗像一隻小海䐁領著一條大鯨魚緩緩前進。
長堤港到了，緩緩靠岸停妥拋錨，另一梯次的遊客等待上船。又見印尼籍的船工忙得不亦樂乎，大家互祝身體健康前程似錦。(12，夲篇完）
第18篇：南達科他
自駕行
2016年4月初我與內子飛往丹佛(Denver)探望小兒Anderson歡聚了一個多月。Anderson任職的升陽電腦公司(Sun Microsystems)舉辦了一個星期的新産品展示說明會，換來五天的休假，連同週末兩天例假一共七天，可以充分利用。
我們作了一次自駕旅行，跨越懷俄明州（Wyoming)、至南達科他州(South Dakota)，計兩個州府(Cheyenne，Rapid City)，九個中小型城鎮，兩個世界馳名景點，一座州立公園，一座大山(Black Hills，高2194公尺，懷俄明州與南達科他州界山)，往返1340公里。(1)
5月29日上午九時許，從位於丹佛市北郊的布隆菲爾鎮(Brookfield)家中出發，順25號州際公路北上，路程161公里，近中午到達懷俄明州首府Cheyenne(夏延)，全市人口僅5萬3千人，原是北美大陸上印地安人的一個部落，是一個市容優美環境寧靜的都市。
馳名的州議會大廈(Wyoming State Capitol)座落城東，長方形兩層樓正面近百公尺縰深二十公尺，中央樓聳高25公尺，拜佔庭圓頂建築，相當壯觀，是議會議事及長辦公的地方。建於1886年，竣工於1890年，1987年列入美國國家歴史名勝。
懷俄明州1890年加入聯邦，是美國第44州，面積25萬3千平方公里，人口只有59萬6千人，是美國人口最少的一州。州內印地安人已逾6萬人，佔總人口632萬3千人的2%。
懷俄明州有優勢的觀光資源，是旅遊觀光的大州，全州河川、山脈、丘陵、平原、河谷密佈，冬季滑雪夏季泛舟。
西部Jackson Hole兼具山湖之美有如瑞士，是包括比爾蓋茲、巴菲特在內的美國企業家每年聚會的地方。
Cheyenne以北122公里的小麥田市(Wheatland)，其汽車旅館稱之為Wyoming Motel，揚名全國，是旅客放鬆充電的絕佳選擇，市內有頂級的餐館。
我們繼續北行，經Lusk鎮過Redbird小城，再北兩英里有一小村Small Village，公路邊豎一標示牌，標明人口只有一人，可能是世界僅有。
續行16公里有一處Mule Creek Junction是兩條公路的交會處，也是車隊的休息站，我們在此休憩片刻，竟然看到數隻單峰駱駝，讓人驚喜。
在此轉向東行，黑山Black Hills就快到了，越過山頭，進入南達科他州境內。(2)
埃奇蒙特(Edgemont)是南達科他州一個人口只有762人的小鎭，是懷俄明州進入南達科他州西南部風景區的一個隘口，好似西南奧地利進入瑞士境內阿爾卑斯山下的某一個小城，我們從這裡進入南達科他州。
座車繼續東北行至熱泉市(Hot Springs)，溫泉是這裡的觀光賣點，也是中古世紀長毛象的遺址。
第三站到達普林格爾鎭(Pringle)，距離風洞國家公園(Wind Cave National Park)東行僅9公里。
續北行到達卡斯特鎮(Custer)，這裡是探索小鎮西南黑山國家森林(Black Hills National Forest)的理想基地。其東南是建於1912年佔地7萬1千英畝，全州最大的公園Custer State Park（卡斯特州立公園)，車程僅12公里。
最後來到我們住宿的Hill City(希爾城)，人口僅966人，只有一條大街兩條通往山林可以行車的小路，方圓不足1平方公里，但是佔盡地利優勢，附近的景點有九處之多，其東南方的Mount Rushmore National Memorial（總統勒石像地點)，車程僅20分鐘。
小城處處可見Cabins(獨立小木屋)出租，觀光旺季一屋難求，須預先訂位。一房一廳衛浴廚房設計，設備一應俱全。平時一晚租金美金50元，旺季80至100元。我們選擇邊間位置，便利進出。到達時已是下午六時，至超市採購食材回屋烹煮，享受了一次豐盛可口的另類晩餐。(3）
此行的第二天5月30日，我們選擇距離小木屋不到15公里的Crazy Horse Memorial (瘋馬巨石雕像）遊覽，這是一座目前全球最大的石雕藝術，利用整座山頭雕琢，高563呎，比較中國樂山大佛237呎，美國總統勒石285呎，埃及金字塔487呎，華盛頓紀念碑555呎，高出許多。
瘋馬石雕於1948年開工，比較拉什莫爾山紀念公園(總統勒石頭像，建成於1941年10月31日，粍時14年)遲7年。
至今仍在持續建築中的瘋馬巨石雕像，建成後將有600呎長，592呎高，僅僅頭像就有87呎。四位總統勒石頭像，每座60呎，僅及整個瘋馬巨石雕像的十分之一。(4)
1868年白人殖民者在南達科他州與印地安人簽署了一項「印地安人黑山保留區」的協議。包括現今的Black Hills North及Black Hills South在內，但是白人違反了協議。
酋長Crazy Horse(1843年生於Rapid，1877年9月6日卒於Badlands)為維護族人權力與白人斡旋數年，但被一白人用刀在背後捅死。
美國開拓者曾經問Crazy Horse「你們的土地在哪裏？」，騎在馬上的他手指前方回答「我們的子子孫孫埋葬的地方，就是我們的土地」，展現出印地安人的豪邁。Crazy Horse驍勇善戰更具智慧，被族人視為民族英雄，地位崇高。
在印地安人的文化中，無論男女沒有姓氏，以大自然的生命現象命名。例如飛翔的鷹、站立的熊、谷中的蝶、林中的雀。(5)
1941年拉什莫爾山總統勒石像竣工，讓印地安酋長Standing Bear起了一個念頭，希望在Black Hills尋覓一處山頭，也能雕刻一座他們心目中永遠領袖Crazy Horse的石像，凸顯印地安人熱愛和平、求真務實的核心精神。
Standing Bear決定委請曾經是建築總統勒石像工程師之一，具有印地安血統的波蘭雕刻家史坦尼斯拉夫蘇考斯基（Korczak Ziolkowski，1908年9月6日生於波士頓，1982年10月20日卒於Black Hills)擔下這項重任。
經過長期的溝通誠懇的請求，Standing Bear說出「我和其他酋長一樣要讓白人知道，印地安人也有偉大的英雄」，就是這句話打動了蘇考斯基，決定接下這項艱鉅的任務。
1942年蘇考斯基開始行動，四處找尋適合建地，最後選定Crazy Horse Memorial現址。
1943年起經過5年的時間，有時他帶領著妻子和兒女，走遍這座山，測量每一寸土地，一再組合、分解、對比，最後在1948年開工。
蘇考斯基生前曾立下遺囑，交代律師，他死後拆封。囑10個子女是否協助母親持續這項工作，全由自己決定。結果7人參與3人另謀發展，留下的7人中，有5人獲有工程學士、碩士學位。並且囑咐工程進行，不接受政府任何資金援助，要自力更生子子孫孫一代一代接棒下去，直到完成。
經過50年努力不懈的工作，上個世紀末工程已具雛形，完成頭像部份。聯邦政府曾兩度提出工程補助，均被管理委員會婉拒。僅接受私人及慈善團體捐款，門票收入也是一項經費來源。(6)
離開Crazy Horse Memorial，續往小木屋以北車程約30分鐘的Deadwood （朽木)小鎮一遊。
順385號公路北上，見一岔路口豎立一標示牌，上書Pooralley(窮人胡同)，很好奇竟有如此地名，視線之內有數戶人家，看來不像窮人寓所，我們莞爾一笑。
續往前行，有一騎馬牛仔趕著一群黃牛橫跨公路，雙方車輛均停車耐心等待牛隻緩緩通過長達五分鐘之久，牛仔頻頻含笑揮手致意。
來到Deadwood小鎮，此鎮在美國歴史上頗有名氣，有「西部瘋狂」的稱呼。古老的賭博小鎮充滿了關於放逐者、賭徒和槍手的傳奇故事，人口1284人(2010人口普查)，是勞倫斯縣的縣城，也是美國第一個在印地安保䕶區以外賭博合法化的城鎮，賭場生意是小鎮經濟來源。賭場設備新穎，吸引各方觀光客前來消費，小旅館生意火紅，也是好萊塢奧斯卡金像獎影片《與狼共舞》拍攝地之一。
回程過Lead鎮不久，見一片魚塭(Trout Haven)，標示牌上畫一大鱒魚，可免執照釣魚，種類有Siscowet、Brook、Rainbow和Splake（溪流鱒和湖鱒混合種)，工作坊備有魚具魚餌。我們各持一桿，數秒鐘內桿桿有魚上鈎，魚獲八磅價格不貲，近美金百元，享盡垂釣之樂，回到小木屋分成兩份，每晩均有鱒魚大餐。(7)
此行第三天5月31日，安排上午至寶石洞國家紀念碑（Jewel Cave National Monument)，下午至四大總統勒石像(Mountain Rushmore National Memorial)遊覽。
我們從小木屋出發，順16號公路至Custer鎮，再往西行約15分鐘車程到達寶石洞。
1900年秋天，寶石洞被一對沒有趕上淘金熱的兄弟Frank and Albert Michaud在黑山地區的峽谷中發現。洞口不大，人都鑽不進去，但從洞穴裡冒出一股涼風，感覺好奇，於是和他們的朋友Charles Bush一起用炸藥炸開洞口，驚奇的發現狹窄的通道和低矮的洞壁，在微弱的陽光下反射出耀眼如寶石般的彩光，原來是各種方解石的結晶。
這年10月31日，他們從喀斯特(Custer)縣政廳申請到採礦執照進行挖掘，但一直沒有發現其他有價值的礦産。
於是轉了念頭，何不將洞穴作為一個旅遊景點，說不定可以賺大錢，直到1908年仍然是個夢。
當年美國興起自然環境保育運動，1908年2月7日老羅斯福總統簽署行政命令，將其設立為美國第14個國家紀念園區，最終兩兄弟以750美元，把寶石洞賣給了政府。
這座由地下河流形成的迷宮，洞室一個接一個，錐形的石鐘乳、石筍和厚厚的石瀑反射出耀眼的亮光。
洞穴內的氣溫接近攝氏零度，我們穿上夾克禦寒，撘乘電梯下降百餘公尺，再由步道往下走，深不可測，膽小的人走不下去而折返，我們卻走到了步道終點，享受了一次終生難忘的深度旅遊。(8)
寶石洞經過100多年的挖掘，目前已達310公里，比較世界最長位於肯塔基州西南的馬黙斯洞穴國家公園(Mammoth Cave National Park)挖掘了200年，長600公里，相去甚遠。
隨後我們由原16號公路經Custer鎮北上，轉244號公路東行到達拉什莫爾山總統勒石頭像國家紀念館。
1923年南達科他州的一位美國歴史學者多恩羅賓遜(Diane Robinson，1856年10月19日生於威斯康辛州，1946年11月27日卒於南達科他州)，為了表彰美國立國精神追懷史上傑出總統，建議政府在他的故鄉拉什莫爾山，堅硬的花崗岩山峰，雕刻總統頭像。
經過多恩羅賓遜的奔走斡旋，敦請美籍丹麥裔的名雕刻家博格南姆(Gutzon Borglum，1867年3月25日生於愛達荷州，1941年3月6日卒於芝加哥)擔任這項工程的總工程師。
1925年3月，美國國會通過了他們的建議，經過兩年多的探勘測量，於1927年6月開工建築。
當時的美國第30任總統柯立芝(Calvin Coolidge，任期1923-1929，生於1872卒於1933，共和黨)強調，除了華盛頓總統不可缼外，其他三位必須兩位共和黨一位民主黨。
四位總統勒石頭像由左至右分別是：
華盛頓（George Washington，任期1789-1797，生於1732卒於1799，籍貫維吉尼亞州，第1任總統，聯邦黨)。
傑佛遜(Thomas Jefferson，任期1801-1809，生於1743卒於1826，籍貫維吉尼亞州，第3任總統，民主共和黨)。
羅斯福（老)（Theodore Roosevelt，任期1901-1909，生於1858卒於1919，籍貫紐約州，第26任總統，共和黨)。
林肯（Abraham Lincole，任期1861-1865，生於1809卒於1865，籍貫肯塔基州，第16任總統，共和黨）。(9)
拉什莫爾山國家紀念公園又稱「美國總統山」，總統勒石頭像面對一條長達200公尺的石板大道，兩邊高聳的白松、雲杉與青山藍天白雲組合成一幅自然天成的脫塵美景。
50州及屬地（波多黎各、塞班島、關島、美屬薩摩亞、美屬維京群島)的州旗、屬地旗分懸大道兩側，迎風飄揚。花崗岩的牆壁上，石刻各州加入聯邦的年份及簡史概況。
進入大廳右側史蹟館內，陳列著美國自建國以來的歴史文物及歷任總統事略，並有電影放映室，每場皆座無虛席。
同一廳內有一包括有關美國人文、風情、歴史、地理、旅遊、科技發展、國力展現各種書籍及紀念品在內的銷售專區。
石勒山下有一座音樂台，觀眾席可容兩千人，每年國慶及紀念節日在此施放煙火，並定期舉辦音樂會活動。
我們在觀景台仰望山頂上的四位總統勒石頭像，緬懷美國先賢近250年來，帶領全體美國人民，走過建國維艱守成不易的漫漫長路，使國家臻於世界一等強國之林，殊堪敬佩。(10)
此行第四天6月1日，起了一個大早，晨六時順16號公路經Custer鎮東行20分鐘到達卡斯特州立公園(Custer State Park)，入園後順威爾杜夫環園公路(Wldufe Loop Rd)，由西至北，再至東，再至南，以順時針方向折返原點。
卡斯特州立公園建於1912年，面積7萬1千英畝（284平方公里)，略大於台北市的271平方公里，劃分為石林風景區、野生動物區及森林遊樂區。
遊客可以步行、騎單車、騎馬或駕車穿梭在這個大自然壯麗的景觀中。
公路蜿蜒在松柏覆蓋的森林中，穿越狹窄的隧道眺望群山，野生動物與遊客近距離接觸毫無畏懼，體會出人與動物及大自然間和諧相處的一面。五月至九月，這裡是旅遊最佳季節，我們正逢其時。
我們在曙光初顯之前，避開人潮的喧囂，來到大山中的蘇文湖(Sylvan Lake)，享受山中有湖，湖中有山，早鶯爭樹鳴，戲蝶時時舞，吊影千里雁，青雲羨鳥飛的寧靜之美。
時隔兩年後的6月，我在洛杉磯寫了一首七律「逐夢山湖」，追憶這段終生難忘的經歷。
蜿蜒山徑霧中行，
山在靄靄彩雲間。
山雲縹緲無盡處，
崇嶺擁湖湖擁山。
追夢湖山長相在，
湖隱山水女羅衫。
此景只應天上有，
茵夢湖裏憶當年。
文後加註：兩年前夏初，與妻兒遊南達科他州州立公園蘇文湖，日出之前雲霧繚繞，恍如置身人間天上。女羅衫：屈原《九歌》筆下的女神，身披薜荔，腰束女羅，縹緲神奇，既美麗又痴情，常在山林間湖水上出現。
茵夢湖：係德國作家斯篤姆寫的小說「Immensee Lake」，完成於1852年，是我青澀年代讀過的一本小說，全書以山中之湖為背景，用倒敍法追憶一對年輕情侶的戀情，文章清新淒美，情意真摯動人。(11)
蘇文湖連接公園三條風景道，針岩公路(Needles Highway)、野生動物環道(Wildlife Loop Rd)及鐵山公路(Iron Mountain Road)。
我們由環園公路(Wldufu Loop Rd)駛入針岩公路，進入超過20億年北美最古老的岩石山區。高塔般的岩石群山連綿不斷，隧道一個接一個，鐵山公路上的隧道可以清楚的眺望總統山的勒石頭像，一座自然天成高聳入雲的花崗岩狹窄石山，頗像一根針的針眼(Needles Eye)。
山中任何一個角度都可取景拍照，點㸃山林小屋、草原、牧場盡收眼底。如此雲淡天高藍天如洗，光彩奪目萬般柔情，超然脫俗恬淡之美的世外桃園，令人沉醉。（12)
卡斯特州立公園的森林面積約佔全境三分之一，分佈在87號及753號公路兩旁，公園西側二哩之遙就是黑山國家森林公園，集林山湖水草原之盛。露營者結隊入山林小徑，或徒步或騎馬或騎驢各有情趣，觀翠綠松柏看遍山野花，聽百鳥爭鳴。遠處的梅花鹿、灰獾(Badger），近處的麋鹿、野兔，隨時可見。入深山有黑熊、美洲豹、小野狼(Coyotes，南達科他州的別名又稱小野狼之州）。
花卉有珍貴的白頭翁花（Pasquale Flower，州花)、闊葉紫宛(Leafy Aster)、Indian Paintbrush(一種紅色灌樹花)、Columbine(五瓣，外紫內白，花蕊黃)。
林中更有珍奇鳥類，不常見的有頸環雉（Chinese Ring-Necked Pheasant，州鳥)、掌葉白頭翁、藍雀、白頭鷲、鷦鷯(e Bird，又叫巧婦，一種小鳥)。
南達科他州的座右銘是「在上帝之下，由人民管理」(Under God，The people rule)。(13)
卡斯特州立公園東北的Peter Norbeck Visitor Center(彼德諾貝克遊客中心)三面山林一面草原，風景秀麗林木扶疏花香鳥鳴，是一處河川、飛瀑、流泉、草坪、牧場、酒店具有的渡假中心。
遊客中心建於1925年，創辦人Perter Norbeck(1870年8月27日生於南達科他州Clay County，1936年12月20日卒於南達科他州Redfield)曾任南達科他州聯邦參議員，被譽為「卡斯特州立公園之父」，遊客中心為觀光客提供了一個悠遊舒適的渡假環境。
遊客中心南邊的養馬場，也是馬種培育中心，多數用於牧牛、馱重、賽馬。有一種阿帕盧薩馬(Appaloosa)性情溫順，精靈聰慧，耐力速度兼具，白色身軀黑色斑點，是馬乳的來源，每匹約在美金三千元左右。
還有一種夸特馬(Quarter)用於賽馬，每匹可賣美金10萬元，如獲賽馬冠軍，身價超過百萬。
所有品種，犢仔誕生即可站立，十分可愛。這裡也培養了一些小驢，用於山區載重及遊客遊騎觀景。(14)
我們續往野生動物保護區大草原觀看動物，小河、小湖、低丘、樹林、青草，提供了一個最佳棲息地。
這裡是北美野牛(Buffalo)最大的培育中心，建園初期1914年不到百頭，繁衍至今已有1300多頭。經過長時間與人類的接觸，野牛、麋鹿、梅花鹿、叉角羊、土狼、土拔鼠，自由自在地在此活動。
園內的公路及步道，或駕車或騎馬或步行各得其樂，均可與這些動物近距離接觸。
我們被成群的土拔鼠吸引，這種俗稱「大草原小狗」土黃色酷似松鼠，如小狗一般的小尾巴，學名叫Prairie Dog，三五成群在草原上覓食和曬太陽，尤其是拱着兩隻小手站立的姿勢十分可愛。
幸運難得的是，目睹一群至少有200餘頭的野牛遷徙居所到達新草原。一頭壯碩的野牛走在前面應是領隊，犢牛走在中間，隊形有條不紊，頗似行軍的部隊。
數頭小牛犢走到公路邊，卻落了隊，我們停車等候通過，並揮手示意讓小牛先行。豈料領頭的小牛一再搖頭不走，反而有意禮讓我們。看到這一幕讓我們驚訝，更讓我們感動。
每年入秋，山頭黃紅參半的樹林，染滿了整個山谷，也是旅遊旺季。九月最後一個星期五，是一年一度的圈牛節，鼓聲響起整個大地隆隆作響，上千頭的Buffalo呼嘯而過，被牛仔們驅趕至牛欄。壯觀場面引來數萬旅客觀看，感受到這裡的旅遊特色，體驗一下正宗的牛仔文化。
在夕陽餘暉之下，我們離開了大草原，前往Custer小鎮。（15)
Custer這個深山中的小鎭，人口僅2067人(2010年人口普查)，平均每年以1．72%速度成長，是三條公路的交匯點，被評為全美十大旅遊小鎭之一，地位適中，周邊景點近20處，最遠的一處也只有一小時車程。
鎮內有34間旅館，10間頂級酒店，酒吧、飯館、咖啡屋隨處可見。
我們選擇了一間不受酒吧餐館喧嘩的咖啡店晚餐，美式餐點咖啡有多種挑選。內部裝潢雅緻，室外流水噴泉花香四溢，雖然滿座但彼此交談輕聲細語，可聽到樹林中夜鶯的啼鳴。
在返回小木屋的途中，遇見一件很窩心的事，被一輛警車鳴笛尾隨。停車後，警察說道：先生，你超速了。Anderson很納悶，警察補充說：這裡是Downtown，限速30英里。
Anderson一時忘記這裡不是丹佛，警察看了看駕照及車牌，笑容可掬的說道：大都市來的，不罰。歡迎閤家再度前來小地方觀光，可是要看清楚路標啊。
這夜我們很晚就寢，入住小木屋四天來，首次感覺到這裡的寧靜之美。可以聽到林中貓頭鷹的鳴聲，一隻山鷹在月光下站立樹幹，正在打瞌睡，山中的瀑布聲沒有驚醒㸰的睡夢。
已是第五天6月2日，近中午我們按原路回丹佛，再度欣賞沿途風景。愉快的南達科他州自駕之旅，留下美麗的回憶。(16，本篇完)
第19篇：鵝毛飄雪
四月天
科羅拉多州丹佛市，位居美國中西部中央位置，北緯40度與中國北京在同一緯度上，略高於美京華盛頓，海拔1英里(1609公尺)。氣候四季分明，落磯山脈綿延數千公里縱貫州境，景色優美綺麗。數處滑雪勝地世界馳名，是個尋幽探勝的好地方。
小兒Anderson任職於丹佛市北郊的Brookfield (金雀花田)小鎮，這裡是美國升陽電腦公司(Sun Microsystems)總部所在地，原是一片生長金雀花的大草原。
金雀花(Scotch Broom)屬豆科植物，可入藥，中國民間稱其為「掃帚花」或「掃帚草」，曾是蘇格蘭鄕間常用的掃把材料，也是一種染料，花多瓣黃色，也有白色和紅色。
Anderson住在半山坡一處兩層小樓Condo中，是公司的員工宿舍。一幢幢紅頂瓦房依山而建，山下有兩處高爾夫球場，小橋流水樹林湖塘盡收眼底，置身其間如脫俗塵。
2005年4月初我與內子初抵此境作短暫居留，與子相聚共享天倫。週日至小鎮一遊，聞有牛糞味，附近並無牧場，疑惑不解。
經Anderson解釋，這個時節雖然清明已過，但因阿拉斯加寒流南下美國本土，每年四月底才會停止。如果受到太平洋鋒面影響，寒風夾帶水氣東吹，正好遇上高聳的落磯山脈，大山匯聚了充足水份，氣溫一旦下降，丹佛西郊牧場的牛糞味隨風飄至，有此氣味出現，即表示次日有下雪可能。(1)
次日清晨，果然飄下了夲地四月份的第一場瑞雪。先是斷斷續續，後是絮絮綿綿，數隻鴿子不停地從屋簷下的窩巢裡飛出飛進。清晰可見近處坡地上有一群鵪鶉及數隻野兔四處奔跑，好似要在大雪之前覓得足夠的糧食。
早餐後孩子上班去了，我和妻戴上鴨舌帽，穿上防水夾克，沿山間步道，走向山下翡翠小湖。見六隻天鵝四白兩黑在湖中游蕩，逍遙自在不畏風寒。十餘隻鴨子蹲在池畔新栁之下，伸長了脖子直往天上望。面對如此景色，頗有不惹麈埃超脫束縛的感受。
我倆徘徊在湖邊的小路上，任由雪花打在臉上，不忍抹去。走累了，棲息在一處石亭下，瀏覽四週的美景，濛濛的天空中，卻有一隻孤雁掠過。
近午時分雪漸漸大了，小路旁的松柏滿樹銀花，大地一片雪白，回家的步道快要被飄雪遮蓋了。
我們快步走往回家的路上，找尋那座由土黃色石板砌成的郵亭，目標搶眼，那是每天取信的地方。
有了目標，不愁回不了家了。面迎著山風飄雪，竟然興致盎然唱起趙元任作曲，胡適譜詞的那首「上山」。「努力努力，努力往上爬。我頭也不回呀，汗也不擦，努力往上爬」。
好了，終於上山了，也快到家了。再回首看來時路，天空中找不到一片雲彩，我倆的足跡卻深深地刻印在雪花堆中。(2，本篇完）
第20篇：上主恩賜
的花園
如果將比例尺相同的中美兩國地圖重疊在一起，美國科羅拉多州大約在甘肅省的位置上。敦煌、酒泉和科州首府丹佛，同在北緯40度左右。
科羅拉多州以山嶽壯麗著名於世，西部有緜延的落磯山脈，科羅拉多州河源頭就在此山中。多變的地形有高山、大河、高原、湖泊、縱谷、盆地，也有一望無垠的草原。氣候四季分明，公路如蛛網般分佈，高原鐵路行走於山巒之間。丹佛及泉水市（Springs)的機場設施建築風格，新穎亮麗。州內名勝古蹟，保存著原始的風貌以及現代化的管理。
2005年五月初的一個週末上午，由小兒Anderson開車，自丹佛出發，順25號州際公路南下，約一個半小時車程，途經美國空軍官校和泉水市，駛離146號出口，十分鐘就可到達上帝公園(Garden The Gods)登山接待處。
由接待處的瞭望台上向西邊望去，有三座由火山岩形成造型奇特的土紅色大山。其中有一座酷似兩隻擁吻的駱駝，命名為Kissing Camels，驚嘆造物主的神奇，給人間雕塑出如此驚艷的仙境。(1)
「擁吻之駝」右後方有座被稱為「妖魔之塔」（Tower of Babel)的怪山，形似一座尖頂的塔。傳說中有一位國王，建造了一座直達天庭的樓塔，內有地球上各種不同的人類，由其統治，權力大於上帝，結果被宇宙主宰摧毀。
摧毀後的這座塔，分成19座石山。和諧之石(Balanced Rock)活像一位護守之神，安定地凝神看守著這座花園。又如Siamese Twins，像極了兩個連體的攣生兄弟。雙峰聳立的哨兵之石(Sentinel Rock)像兩個站崗的衛兵。
另有巨人足跡，講壇之石，鎖孔之石，睡中巨人，三仙女之石，蛤蟆吐氣石等，都有它獨特的造型。
山中的自行車道順著繞山公路而建，行人步道穿梭在山巒之間，步道旁開滿了各種不同顏色的落磯山花卉。路標清楚地指出行進方向，絕不會有迷路的可能。
瀑布山的七段瀑布，段段相連，從天而降。可乘電梯到山腰或登184階石梯上山，欣賞瀑布。山腳下的美式餐廳，也是觀瀑的好地方。
我們在餐廳裡各享一杯咖啡，觀看「日照香爐生紫煙，遙看瀑布掛前川。飛流直下三千尺，疑是銀河落九天。」那種遇迢迢紫氣，見廬山秀色的感覺。
山中的天氣更是變化無窮，剛剛還是陽光普照，一瞬間就烏雲密佈，不一會兒就下起濛濛細雨，繼之雷電交加，大雨傾盆，隨後又轉為艷陽高照。一時勁風急雨，一時輕風嵐影。在石壁千仞，澗綠山紅，谷中回音中，驀然感受到一股襲人的靈氣。
看著遠方峰巒綿延的落磯山脈，山峰上積滿白雪，山脊下一片翠綠，近處的紅色石林，掠過朵朵彩雲，一群大雁正向北方飛去。天色漸昏，我們走向回家的路上。
回首看到接待中心入口處的旗桿上，六桿之中竟然飄揚着一面青天白日滿地紅的國旗，在黃昏斜陽中，顯得格外蒼勁有力。(2，夲篇完)
第21篇：科羅拉多
山中行
2006年4月，旅次落磯山脈科羅拉多州丹佛，每逢週末假，均外出旅遊。5月初，一個週末上午由小兒Anderson開車，直驅落磯山國家公園（Rocky Mountain National Park)。
落磯山國家公園縱貫北美大陸落磯山脈，巍峨壯觀氣象萬千，面積1063平方公里，是台北市（271平方公里)的3．92倍。
我們由丹佛市區順著36號聯邦公路，往西北方向行駛72英里（115公里)，車行一個半小時，即可到達落磯山國家公園轄內的艾斯蒂斯公園(Estes Park)，路經路易斯威爾(Louisville)及波德（Boulder)。
路易斯威爾被評為全美國最適合居住的小鎮前十名。屬波德縣，建於1882年6月3日，面積20．703平方公里，人口18376人(2010人口普查)。
波德又稱圓石市，是波德縣治，建於1876年，面積65．7平方公里，人口97385人(2010人口普查)，是全州第11大城，風景秀麗安靜祥和，城內的科羅拉多大學波德分校(University of Colorado Boulder)學術思想自由，開放程度高於各名校之上。
車行過路易斯威爾鎮，浮現在眼前的是一望無垠的大草原，五月初的草原上，大地舖上一層新綠，可見牛羊。
視線在遼闊的草原和遠方的綿延大山之間，車輛行經一處放牧區，數間農舍分散其中，隱約可見舍前石板小路。牧場內圈養著馬匹牛羊，還有來自南美洲安地斯山麓的駝羊。小馬和犢牛倚偎在母親身邊，吃著奶啃著草，騎著馬戴著闊邊帽的牛仔，穿梭其間。一幅美國西部的牧野圖就在眼前，身臨其境的真實感受，使人神清氣爽。(1)
駛離Boulder後，漸入山區，車在蜿蜒的山路上緩緩行進，氣溫逐漸下降，剛剛還艷陽高照，現在卻欲照還羞。水氣重了，也起霧了，我們已置身山谷之中。
谷地兩邊是翠綠的山巒，剛發出嫩葉的蕨類植物和一種落磯山紫色小花，夾在山岩縫中，冒出頭來在勁風中飄動。溫帶常綠喬木楠樹、榛樹叢生在山頭。公路左側深約50公尺鈄坡30度，有一條與公路平行的小河，順河而上有紅、黃、白各色花樹迎風搖曳。河邊的野杜鵑花更是姹紫嫣紅相互爭艷，河中的大小石頭清晰可見。
車逐漸爬高，一股薄霧隨風而至，幾滴小雨點打在車窗上。抬頭望天一縷白雲颺過，剎那間失去了蹤影。確有一種「忽有微涼何處雨，更無留影霎時雲」的感受。
出了谷地逐漸接近落磯山國家公園(Rocky Mountain National Park)西南方就是羅斯福國家森林區(Roosevelt National Forest)，兩處的寒帶針葉林古松、古柏直入雲霄。
羅斯福國家森林裡是珍奇野生動物的棲息地，大角山羊、棕熊、麋鹿、山豬、白頭鷹、火鷄、美洲豹，經常出沒。這裡也是北美地區30餘種珍禽鳥類的生活地，打獵人需有執照，才能進入區內，但嚴禁獵殺保育動物。
車行在峰峰相連的綿綿群山中，走著走著前方好像無路可走，山路直入雲霄，原來駛入山頭。朵朵彩雲就在眼前，在陽光照射下顯得格外燦麗，有如奇幻仙境。
下山了，驀然出現一片草原，草原上有座農莊，又是另一種場景。公路有一條支線，延伸至河邊樹林旁的十餘戶農家。農舍後方山腳下有一座小教堂，隔著河由一座木橋連接。十餘頭乳牛和數匹馬，在教堂旁圈養。一輛郵車停在公路旁，郵差將信件逐一投入每個郵箱。這是美國西部典型的農村景象，小橋流水芳草野花，叢樹牛羊農舍教堂，襯托出一種與世無爭，如世外桃源般的地方。(2)
離開這個大約不到1平方公里的谷中農莊之後，車輛再度上坡而行，約10分鐘到達山頂一塊平地，右側有座陡峭的岩壁，約200公尺高，瀑布直落流向一條小河。俯瞰山下盆地，埃斯蒂斯公園小鎮(Estes City)盡收眼底。
下山後沿埃斯蒂斯湖(Lake Estes)進入小鎮，湖邊松柏密佈。遠山、近丘、碧湖，由南至北層次分明。近處山坡一幢幢小樓，紅瓦白牆獨立而建。湖邊釣客在樹蔭下，或站或坐，注視著魚竿的浮動。繞湖的步道及自行車道，行人漫步騎士穿梭。
小鎮與湖均在埃斯蒂斯公園(Estes Park)範圍內，埃斯蒂斯湖溢出兩條小河，小鎮沿河而建，既現代又傳統，兩條幹線馬路商店林立，皆為兩層樓建築。鎭内有高爾夫球場一座，五星級酒店一間，小客棧無數。居民好客有禮，親切友善，平實純樸。
河堤之上有出租小木屋，陳設典雅套房式建築，遊客可自行炊食。楓樹順河而植數百公尺，秋紅美景令人陶醉。木橋橫跨兩岸，橋頭紅色水車不停轉動，漫步其間有如置身桃源畫中。(3)
小鎭的商店、超市、餐館、酒吧，營業至午夜，觀光客、背包客人來人往，霓虹燈閃爍，越夜越美麗。建於1917年4月17日的埃斯蒂斯公園(Estes Park)就在附近，可見露營者圍篝火而歌舞，享盡山林之樂。
藝品店是引人佇足的地方，主街上近十家之多。印地安人的木雕、石雕，或動物或花卉或山景，雕工精細唯妙唯肖。落磯山的各色礦石晶瑩剔透，製成的項練、首飾物美價廉，生意火紅。
小餐館頗具特色，可以享受到落磯山的野味佳餚，山羊、花鹿、山豬、野兔、野牛。其中學名叫Buffalo的野牛，肉質細嫩，做出的牛排佐以紅酒或啤酒，真是人間美味。
小鎮東北，海拔2250公尺，有一間維多利亞式的五星飯店The Stanley Hotel，開業於1909年，紅色屋頂白色牆壁，樓三層，地下一層，全木製家具裝潢古典，背面是綿綿山巒，面對草原小湖，小河潺潺。美國老羅斯福總統曾多次在此留宿，好萊塢也數次以這間飯店為場景，拍攝電影。
我們在這個山靈水秀的落磯山國家公園登山小鎮停留一宿，次日凌晨看旭陽升起，見山頭浮雲飄動，大雁掠過了天空，遠方木屋內的燈火還亮著，早起的垂釣客走向湖邊，自行車道及步道上，有了早起的運動者，登山客也整裝待發進入國家公園，攬盡山林之盛。小鎮留下了我們的足跡及美好難忘的回憶，我們駛往回家的路上。(4，夲篇完)
第22篇：巴拿馬
大連省原住民之鄉
1998年5月，我與妻獲得美國綠卡辭去工作，於10月底赴休士頓與Anthony及Anderson團聚。
8月下旬一個週末，相約與老友黃益明兄會同一位綽號叫Tortolo（斑鳩)的印地安原住民，作一次兩天兩夜的大連省（Darien)之旅。
1992年經益明兄介紹我們認識了Tortolo，這年1月大家一起到過位於巴拿馬省東南方Lago Bayano湖邊小鎮Canita山上Tortolo的家中拜訪。
這次與老朋友重逢，並請他作嚮導，前往他的原鄉大連省遊覽，頗感愉快。驚奇的是，益明兄這位土生土長的華裔，60餘年來還沒有去過大連。(1）
1998年8月22日星期六上午大約10時左右，我們相約在El Dorado Centro Comercial (黃金購物中心)會合，由Tortolo駕駛一輛SUV越野車，開始我們的大連省之遊。
巴拿馬的地形酷似一隻向西遊走的大龍蝦，大連省是其蝦尾部份。
大連省東北與Comarca Kuna Yala特區(原San Blas)為鄰，西北與西南面對太平洋，東南及南方是哥倫比亞共和國。面積1萬1千零91平方公里，是巴拿馬共和國(面積7萬5千517公里)的15%，也是最大的一個省。首府帕爾馬(La Paima)面對巴拿馬灣（Bahia de Panama)，也是巴拿馬的一個商港。
大連省人口20萬3千人，佔全國人口(407萬，2018)的5%。省內有印地安居民區3處，屬Kuna族，人口約10萬9千人，全國印地安人的45%。
我們首站是巴拿馬省的Chepo鎭，全程60公里，混凝土路面，是泛美公路巴拿馬境內最好的一段。
Chepo鎭是巴拿馬稻米產銷中心，品質優良頗富彈性，在泰國米之上，與泰國稻米産區在同一緯度。(2）
巴拿馬共和國是一個兩面陸地兩面海洋的地峽國家，Panama一詞出於印地安語，意思是有豐富的魚、花、蝴蝶和森林的地方，大連省具有Panama一詞的代表性。除此之外還有大河、岩石海岸、沙灘、沼澤、窪地、紅樹林、高山和熱帶雨林。
大連的熱帶雨林孕育著奇異的野生植物，大山叢林中更有大批珍貴的野生走獸爬蟲和稀有鳥類，幾乎沒有受到任何外界的干擾。
大連還是香蕉、甘蔗、可可豆的生産地，是主要農產輸出品。礦產資源，金、銀、銅、鐵、汞、石油藴藏量豐富。銅礦儲量超過兩億噸，排名世界第四，大部分均未開採。
此行第二站是Canita小鎭，從Chepo到此地有28公里，已是碎石子路面，這是我們第三次來到這裏。第二次是在1996年8月，我與妻卻當了嚮導，陪同內兄吳光定僑務秘書的繼任人鄧毅雄，來此觀光一番，而且介紹了一對開雜貨舖的華裔鄭姓夫婦給他認識。
Chepo及Canita是泛美公路通往大連省必經之地，此行我們順著泛美公路而行。
泛美公路起點在美國阿拉斯加州第二大都市費爾班克斯(Fairbanks)經加拿大入美國、墨西哥至中美洲，通過巴拿馬大連省延伸至南美洲阿根廷的火地島(Tierra del Fuego，近合恩角)，全長2萬6千公里，連接17國，可繞行赤道一週。(3）
來到Canita小鎮已是下午三時左右，Tortolo把我們送往1992年曾有一面之緣，他的好友綽號叫野狼(Lobo）開的小客棧裡休息。車留客棧，改騎壯馬上山回家看望家人，次日清晨回來，大家繼續行程。
客棧位於公路旁，附設餐館，近鄭姓華人經營之雜貨舖。客棧閙中取靜，東鄰一條大河，源起巴拿馬省中部大山，流入巴拿馬灣，面對盛產龍蝦的Isla Chepillo島。龍蝦經由原住民的獨木舟運往沿河各部落、村莊、小鎮出售。
獨木舟用一根完整的大樹幹手工製成，製作簡單，不易進水，操作方便，多以紫檀木為材料，視樹幹大小，製成單人或雙人以載貨為主的小舟。
我們邀約鄭氏夫婦至客棧敘舊並用晚餐，餐館遠近馳名，可供山珍野味，尤以油炸去骨除臟的美洲蜥蜴（Iguana)受人青睞，外酥內嫩，視為極品美味。鄭氏夫婦帶來一道用中藥煲製而成的鱷魚肉羹，味香甜過於鷄汁，肉嫩滑入口即化更勝於鷄肉。我們深聊近午夜，有意興未盡之感。(4）
次日清晨六時不到Tortolo就來到客棧，共用早餐後續往巴拿馬國境內泛美公路終點，大連省Yaviza鎮，全程196公里。要經過綿延的山區，山谷、河川、原住民村莊部落。
從客棧出發，車行不到5公里，進入Lago Bayano湖，湖分南北兩部份，南湖像一尾水中遊走的金魚，北湖形似空中飛行的大龍。兩湖之間有一條長僅3公里的水道連接兩湖，一座鐵橋貫穿水道。附近的水庫，提供周邊農村的灌溉用水。南湖中小島無數，被形容為百島之湖，湖中西南有一高地，面積佔全湖八分之一。全湖風景秀麗，有山湖之靈氣。
大湖地形層次分明，湖週被丘陵環繞，依序是近低遠高的山區，山中可見急湍、流泉、飛瀑。
獨木舟是山區通往湖區的交通工具，山中小徑可行馬匹。
湖岸的魚蝦養殖場也是觀光景點，養殖技術來自中華民國漁技團。(5）
車過Bayano䥫橋逐漸進入山區，到了省界小鎮Aguafria(冷水鎮)。我們經由一條僅能容納一輛汽車通行的小路，來到一個印地安部落，Tortolo引領我們去參觀手工製品Mola及巴拿馬帽(Sombrero)的製作過程。
一個面積約有50個台灣坪的工作坊內，有十餘名中年婦女正在工作。這裡的負責人是一位年過半百已是祖母級，綽號叫Violeta(紫羅蘭)的原住民，她是Tortolo的小學同學，兩人見了面高興得擁抱起來，同時說出：No te vi hace mucho tiempo(很久沒見了)。Tortolo介紹我們與她認識，受到親切招待，還拿出親手調製的土著水果飲料給我們分享，味甘潤喉久留芳香，我們聽她仔細解說製作過程。
巴拿馬莫拉(Mola)是一種用花鳥魚蟹圖案，透過布層堆疊，鋸齒紋路，等寛線條，表現出的手工刺繡。Mola一詞在古納族（Cuna)語中，意思是服飾或是村衫。
巴拿馬帽是一種用托奎拉(Toquila)植物的纖維，以手工編織成的草帽，風行世界歴久不衰。(6)
離開冷水鎮進入大連省境內，順平原河(Rio Sabana)南下，至Meteti鎮，全長50公里，至此行終㸃Yaviza鎮，尚有51公里。
一出冷水鎮，即見廣濶草原，牛羊悠遊其間。過Santa Fe又是另一景觀，逐漸進入山區和森林區，山區呈峽谷地形，從東北的Uana鎭至Yaviza鎭，共有大小河川20多條。
近Santa Fe遇一山谷，有一小徑汽車可以通行。Tortolo這位識途老馬，帶領我們去一個蝴蝶谷參觀。
蝴蝶谷是很多蝴蝶聚集生息繁衍的地方，大連省的河谷地形，造就了蝴蝶一個有利的生存環境。這裡的河谷十分寛敞，花、草、雜木生長豐富，提供蝴蝶幼蟲足夠的食草。巴拿馬的蝴蝶一生就在這種優質的環境中，一代又一代的生息。
大連省的蝴蝶谷分佈很廣，美國德州農工大學的師生，幾乎每年都會來到這裡，作熱帶雨林動植物生態研究，我們參觀的這一個蝴蝶谷，就是其中之一。蝴蝶産卵期，整個山谷萬蝶飛舞，蔚為奇觀。(7）
駛出Santa Fe地勢逐步升高，穿越一山林，林蔭遮天，山花開滿山徑。路過一蘭花培植中心，由部落經營，蘭花採擷自附近深山老林，不乏多種名貴品種，有多種劍蘭、石斛蘭，更有珍奇的猴面蘭、拖鞋蘭。
很幸運的是，看到我們從未見過的鴿子蘭（Espiritu Santo)，巴拿馬人稱它為「聖靈之花」，未開花時如在祈禱中的修士，開花後像一隻飛翔中的白鴿，它也是巴拿馬的國花。
在培植中心的花圃裡，難得看見無數蜂鳥前來覓食，能夠欣賞到牠們飛行的舞姿，曼妙翩翩，是一種意外的收穫。
蜂鳥是世界上最小的鳥類有五百種以上，從嘴角到尾尖只有6公分，如果除去頭、頸、尾長度，身軀只有2公分，牠的嘴就佔了全長的二分之一。羽毛美麗奪目，紅、黃、藍、綠、紫、黑都有，有著金屬或寶石般的閃光，雄的比雌的更加漂亮。
蜂鳥有尖長的翅膀，不但能向前飛，也能向後飛，更能懸浮在空中不動。翅尖一秒鐘能拍動50次，會發出嗡嗡聲。把嘴插入花朵中，吸取花蕊下的花蜜為生。
在這裡我們難得一見的是，一種黑頭、白頸、身軀全紅，舞姿曼妙翩翩的一種宛如鳯凰般的珍珠蜂鳥。(8）
離開蘭花培植中心，繼續向南行。在Meteti鎭泛美公路西南方，我們拐進一條産業道路，車行不到十分鐘，來到一處鸚鵡養育所。主人是一對中年夫婦，是Tortolo唸小學時的學弟、妺，丈夫叫Tallado(鵰鷹)，妻子叫Valonia(守護河谷的女神)。
養育所位於住屋旁，在一個小樹林裡圍蓋一座面積約100平方公尺的露天屋。屋內保存樹叢，用石板砌成高約50公分的圍牆，以鐵絲網延伸20公尺至屋頂，屋頂以魚網覆蓋，為鸚鵡提供了一個舒適的自然環境。
鸚鵡捕捉於小鎮東方約10公里的深山中，並擷取鳥蛋孵化。鸚鵡的外形特徴顯著，容易辨識，大都有一身鮮艷的羽毛有下彎鉤狀的大喙，大大的頭，短短的頸，舌頭厚而有肉。雙腳各有四趾，兩前兩後，利用趾功攀爬樹木和抓取食物。最常見的是繁殖力很強的黃頭鸚，有大有小。小黃鸚鵡很討喜，可以養在鳥籠裡。
鸚鵡會模仿人講話，但並非全部。有一種金鋼鸚鵡，體型大，從頭到尾全身通紅。眼睛至嘴呈黃色，很珍貴，可養在家裡，但不宜關在鳥籠內，學人話學得很像。
兩夫婦還有兩英畝山坡地，種植可可豆，孵育鸚鵡反而是副業。
1994年10月間，Tollado夫婦曾與一組山友入大山賞鳥，驚艷遇見角鷹(Harpia Harpyia)，又稱哈比鷹，是巴拿馬的國鳥，身長約一公尺，展翅時可達兩公尺，巴拿馬國徽上的展翅大鷹，就是這種鳥。(9）
告別了Tallado夫婦績往南行，在前往Yaviza(亞維薩)中途，到達Canglon。這裡是大連省的木材集散地，廣濶的森林區內，有數條大河由San Blas山區向西南流，滙於Rio Tuira大河，經首府La Palma出海，這是一條運輸木材的便㨗通道。
亞維薩西方的國家森林保護區(Reserva Forestall Canglon)面積256平方公里，相當於台北市的面積，內藏熱帶雨林喬木，株株高約20米至30米。有極為珍貴的小葉紫檀木、楠木、紅檜，已被國家列為禁伐樹木。我們路過而未入，了解於Tallado的解說。(10)
Canglon至Yaviza是此行最後一程，約25公里，車行30分鐘。Yaviza是一個典型的原住民小鎮，在面積不過25平方公里的範圍內，可以體驗一下原住民的生活方式，從食、衣、住、行到娛樂活動。
一條長約百公尺寬約八公尺的馬路，通過小鎭中心，馬路兩旁混雜著住屋和商店，多為平房，最多只有一層樓，有些平房以鐵皮為屋頂。雜貨店、小食舗、藝品攤都有，還有一間小客棧。
Yaviza被深山、森林、河川圍繞，是三條大河的滙流處。出了小鎮，又是另一種景觀。
我們來到一處闢為碼頭的河浦沙灘，見數艘運載果蔬、山禽、鮮花的木船靠岸，由接馭貨車分銷至泛美公路沿線各鄉鎮都市。
碼頭也是遊船的停靠站，由機動木船將觀光客載往大河對岸的文化村。除了享受原住民美食外，更經歷了生平第一次與半裸上身的年輕男女舞者，隨其歌聲共舞。
在這裡可以享受到騎馬之樂，走過搖擺的索橋，獨木舟划行河面，兒童戱水河邊。難得一見的是，用棕櫚樹葉製成的長串草亭美景和河岸邊的吊角樓。一處毫無俗麈喧囂的世外桃園，就在眼前。
Yaviza是2萬6千公里的泛美公路，在巴拿馬境內的中止站。再往南是一條源自哥倫比亞界山的大河Rio Tuira，縱深約50公里，兩岸延伸由東北至西南長約80公里，覆蓋面積約3千5百平方公里，被形容是地球上與世隔絕的地方之一，稱為大連地塹(Darien Gap)。
這個地塹是整條泛美公路，迄今仍然無法穿越的一段，沒有道路，沒有足跡，佈滿荊棘沼澤樹叢，處處可見毒蛇鱷魚，也是毒梟交易的地方。
我們在Yaviza小鎭，停留的時間也最久，暢遊了這中美洲大山中的印地安原始部落。雖然它受到現代文明的影響，但仍然不失其樸實的原貌。趁太陽落山之前，回到Canita小鎭。(11）
也許是上主的恩典，我們被一樁印地安人正在進行的婚禮吸引住，機會難逢不能錯過。在Tortolo的解說下，我們這些不速之客，以愉快的心情，參加了婚禮，受到親切接待，我們舉杯敬上一杯喜酒，為新人祝福，因而耽擱行程，延後了兩個小時出發。
這天是個峨眉月東升西落的晚上，我們返回巴京的路上。月亮從山巒間逐漸升起，星星搶在月亮之前佈滿夜空。我們翻山越嶺，橫跨河川，途經大湖，戴月披星，陶醉在這寧靜的夜晚。
青天有月來幾時，我今停杯一問之。人攀明月不可得，月行卻與人相隨。不知不覺我們到了Canita的小客棧了。(12）
這天晚上我們仍然下榻小客棧，Tortolo趁著回程再度回家探望，並邀請我們次日上午由其好友客棧棧主Lobo陪同，繼1992年1月之後，相隔六年半，再次到他家一遊。
Tortolo家居小鎮東北山上，山路崎嶇僅五尺寛，入山或步行或騎馬。
Lobo將汽車停在山下一座湖岸碼頭處，並介紹與這裡的負責人認識，也是Tortolo的朋友。我們跨越公路，步行登山約30分鐘，到達Tortolo的山居部落。
山路景色依舊，天空湛藍，白雲悠悠，山泉流水，溪谷小河，老鷹翱翔，蝴蝶飛舞。
Tortolo的妻子Salvia已經為我們準備好一桌佳餚，能夠再次品嚐難忘的美味爆炒穿山甲肉片和原住民燒烤。我們再次與Yortolo的大哥大嫂姪女Vanessa相見歡，Vanessa已從巴京的一所高中畢業，當上部落小學的校長。
我們再一次回到這個遠離塵囂與世無爭的山谷中的小村，享受一次半日逍遙遊，近中午時分我們踏上歸途。
屈指一數，轉眼已是20餘年前的事了。巴拿馬有一句名言：「喝過巴拿馬水的人，必定會再回來。」意味著這裡的好山好水，會讓人懷念。(13，本篇完)
寫在《羈旅雁鳴》
書後
2003年5月1日，Anthony與Anderson兄弟倆合資買下洛杉磯縣El Monte市Maxson路現址，面積近兩萬立方英尺的獨立屋。這是1980年移民海外，23年來首次有了自己的房子。
我與妻賦閒在家過著退休生活，將這塊住屋在既有的花草樹木及泳池上，再加美化一番，提供了一個閲讀書寫的舒適環境。
我臆想能否仿效名人一般，試著寫寫回憶錄。一來打發時間，二來留給孩子一點日後可以追思的文字紀錄。
父親為我從台北寄來25格24行一頁600字，可以寫30萬字的稿紙，開始我追夢作家的寫作生活。
我塗鴉了兩年，改了又改，塗了又塗，居然完成了我的第一部有10萬字的書稿。書寫的是來自父母的口述及自己記憶中的童年。
父親為書取名為「十年流離看山河」，母親卻取名為「江山風雨」，我選擇了「江山風雨」。
Parts of this introduction that were in Chinese were translated by AI (Claude) in November 2026. Not yet reviewed by the author.
Translated from the Chinese by AI (Claude) in November 2026. Not yet reviewed by the author. The three PDFs lost 81 characters their font couldn’t show; they were filled in from context before translating.
Contents目錄目录 (9)
- Essay 15: Coiling Dragon, Crouching Tiger Stone City
- Essay 16: A Trip to Bengbu and Fengyang
- Essay 17: A Journey Along the Mexican Coast
- Essay 18: South Dakota A Road Trip
- Essay 19: Snow Like Goose Feathers in April
- Essay 20: The Garden Bestowed by the Lord
- Essay 21: Travels in the Mountains of Colorado
- Essay 22: Panama Darién Province, Home of the Indigenous Peoples
- Written at the End of The Honking of Migrant Wild Geese (羈旅雁鳴)
Essay 15: Coiling Dragon, Crouching Tiger
Stone City
On Friday, 12 February 2016, while mainland China was still on its long Spring Festival holiday, we made a three-day, two-night trip to Nanjing.
Nanjing lies in the southwest of Jiangsu Province, where the Yangtze River meets the Qinhuai River. It is the capital of Jiangsu Province, and in the Republic of China's years on the mainland it was one of the twelve special municipalities under the Executive Yuan.
During the Three Kingdoms period (AD 229-280), Sun Quan of Eastern Wu made his capital here, calling it Jianye, also known as Stone City. Thirty-seven years later came the Eastern Jin (317-420), followed by the Southern Dynasties: Song (420-479), Qi (479-502), Liang (502-557) and Chen (557-589). Over these 272 years the capital was always at Nanjing, and so it is called "the ancient capital of the Six Dynasties".
If we add the first fifty-three years of the Ming dynasty, from the first year of the Hongwu reign of Ming Taizu (the Hongwu Emperor) (1368) until the Yongle Emperor Chengzu moved the capital to Beijing in the nineteenth year of his reign (1421), it should be called "the capital of seven dynasties".
At nine in the morning we went to Shanghai Hongqiao railway station and took the 9:42 Shanghai-Nanjing high-speed train (on the route of the old Beijing-Shanghai railway, 305 kilometres in all), passing Kunshan, Suzhou, Wuxi, Changzhou (Wujin), Danyang and Zhenjiang to Nanjing South Station in just one hour and twenty-five minutes.
In August 1945 (year 34 of the Republic), after victory in the War of Resistance against Japan, the government returned to the capital. In March of the following year my father was ordered, as part of the postwar restoration, to take up a new post in Shenyang. It was just when spring warmth brings out the flowers in Jiangnan, and the whole family set out from Chongqing, travelling via Nanjing to Shanghai and then on to Northeast China.
It was the first time in my life I rode a train: the 11 p.m. night express from Nanjing, which reached Shanghai at six the next morning, on this same Beijing-Shanghai railway. As of now (2020), that was seventy-four years ago. (1)
Nanjing was the seat of the legitimate Chinese state. On 1 June 1931 (year 20 of the Republic), the Nationalist Government promulgated the Provisional Constitution for the Period of Political Tutelage (中華民國訓政時期約法), whose Article 5 stated: "The national capital of the Republic of China is fixed at Nanjing." Since the founding of the People's Republic of China, the city has kept its standing as a political and cultural centre and is regarded as a first-tier international metropolis.
Nanjing is famed for being majestic, beautiful and serene. Zhongshan (Purple Mountain) rises to the east, the Yangtze River winds around the west, Yuhuatai shields the south, and the Qixia hills stretch across the north. It has long been praised in the words "At Zhongshan the dragon coils; at Stone City the tiger crouches" (鍾山龍蟠，石頭虎踞).
Sun Yat-sen, the Father of the Nation, once said: Nanjing has high mountains, deep waters and plains. These three works of nature are gathered and nurtured in one place, and among the great cities of the world it is truly hard to find so fine a setting.
As the train entered the city, I at once felt the shock of its majestic grandeur. What stirred my heart beyond words was that this "city of sorrows" is bound to our country and to my family by ties that can never be severed. So many tragic and heroic stories, enough to move one to tears, took place here.
Leaving Nanjing South Station, we took Metro Line 1 north to Xinjiekou and checked into the Novotel Nanjing Central Hotel. The hotel is in the heart of the city, with Mochou Lake to the west, the former Presidential Office to the east, the Confucius Temple (Fuzimiao) near the Qinhuai River to the south, and Xuanwu Lake to the north. After our meal, we headed straight for the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum. (2)
Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum
The Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum lies at the southwestern foot of Purple Mountain (Zhongshan), west of Zixia Lake. It is the tomb of Ming Taizu, Zhu Yuanzhang, who was born on October 21, 1328, in Fengyang, Anhui, and died on June 24, 1398, in Nanjing. Construction began in the 14th year of the Hongwu reign (1381), when Taizu was 54, and was completed in the 3rd year of the Yongle reign of Emperor Chengzu (1405), seven years after Zhu Yuanzhang's death. It took 100,000 soldier-laborers and 25 years, a span that included the four years of Emperor Hui's reign (1399–1402).
During his lifetime Zhu Yuanzhang chose this site below Wanzhu Peak on Purple Mountain, with the mountain behind it and water beside it. It was a grand layout on ground of excellent feng shui, the result of careful thought and rigorous design. A year later, in the 15th year of Hongwu, Empress Ma died and was buried here with the posthumous title "Xiaoci" (Filial and Compassionate), and Taizu named the imperial tomb "Ming Xiaoling" after her. It is rare anywhere for an imperial mausoleum to be named after an empress's posthumous title. When Taizu died in 1398, the underground palace was opened and he was buried there with Empress Ma.
Along both sides of the avenue leading to the tomb stand giant stone carvings of six kinds of animals facing one another: lions, xiezhi, kylin, camels, horses and elephants. Before the tomb also stand four pairs each of stone statues of armored generals and of civil officials in python robes.
Li Xin, the minister in charge of building the mausoleum, proposed moving the tomb of Sun Quan (182–252) before breaking ground. Zhu Yuanzhang said: "No need. Sun Quan was a fine hero too. Let him stay here and guard my tomb for me."
We walked along the mountain road leading to the tomb under towering parasol trees, talking as we went. This commoner emperor of great talent and vision lived a life of dazzling splendor and outstanding achievement. Although his dynasty lasted only 294 years, it made enormous contributions to the Chinese nation in spreading the nation's prestige, in Neo-Confucian philosophy, in practical statecraft, in evidential scholarship, and in science, technology and invention. (3)
The second stop on our itinerary was to climb Purple Mountain to pay our respects at the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum of the Father of the Nation. The mausoleum lies on the southern slope of Purple Mountain, at an altitude of 270 meters. The mountain is named for the purple haze that often hangs over it, and it is also called Zhongshan. Its ridges rise and fall in ever-changing scenery, looking down over the fields and green waters of Nanjing, its plains and great rivers. The tombs of the revolutionary martyrs Tan Yankai and Liao Zhongkai are also on this mountain.
The Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum lies northeast of the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum, 8.6 kilometers away, with Zixia Lake between the two. We rode a ten-seat electric cart designed for the mountain and arrived at the entrance of the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum.
Sun Yat-sen, the Father of the Nation, died of illness in Peiping on March 12, 1925 (year 14 of the Republic), and his coffin was laid to rest at Biyun Temple in the Western Hills. On June 1, 1929 (year 18 of the Republic), his remains were moved to Purple Mountain in Nanjing.
The Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum covers 80,000 square meters and is surrounded on all sides by green pines and cypresses. It is magnificent, solemn and dignified, and was designed and built by the brilliant Chinese architect Lü Yanzhi.
Lü Yanzhi was born in Tianjin on July 28, 1894. He graduated from the architecture department of Tsinghua University and went on to further study in architecture at Cornell University in the United States. He died of liver cancer in Nanjing on March 18, 1929, and sadly did not live to attend in person the ceremony moving the Father of the Nation's remains two months later. He had a childhood sweetheart he loved dearly: Yan Qiu, the second daughter of Yan Fu (1853–1921), a great master of modern Chinese intellectual history, and the paternal aunt of Yen Cho-yun, wife of Koo Chen-fu. When Lü Yanzhi died so young, she was devastated by the news. She went to the western outskirts of Peiping, entered religious life, shaved her head and became a Buddhist nun, taking the Dharma name Qiumiao. In 1951 she went by way of Hong Kong to settle in Taiwan, and she never married.
The Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum was designed in a palace style combining Chinese and Western architecture. From the entrance archway, through the tomb passage, the mausoleum gate, the stone stairs, the stele pavilion and the sacrificial hall to the tomb chamber, there are eight platforms in all and 392 stone steps, representing China's population of 392 million. (4)
Anderson worked in Shanghai for three years and went to Nanjing seven times in all, three of them on business trips. He climbed to the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum four times: the first time on his own, and the next three once with Anthony, once with his cousin Alicia, and this time with his parents.
We got off at the plaza in front of the entrance archway and began the climb to the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum, a test of both stamina and willpower. We had to walk a 480-meter tomb passage and climb 392 stone steps.
The archway is built of granite, and set into the lintel above its stone pillars are two characters in the Father of the Nation's own calligraphy: "博愛" (Universal Love).
After walking the first part of the tomb passage, we came to the mausoleum gate at the center of the central axis, then continued along the second part to the stele pavilion. In its center stands a rectangular granite stele carved vertically with 24 large characters: "The Kuomintang of China buried its Premier, Mr. Sun, here on the first day of the sixth month of the eighteenth year of the Republic of China." Beside the pavilion grows a thousand-year-old fir with a strange, vigorous shape.
The eight flights of stone steps from the stele pavilion to the sacrificial hall are all made of Jinshan granite from Suzhou. Looking up from below, you see only steps and no landings, and the lofty tomb seems to soar into the clouds. Xiulian hesitated over whether to climb to the top. After resting a while on a landing, she still lacked confidence. Seeing this, Anderson said, "Mom, I'll carry you up." Those words were what gave his mother her confidence, and she resolved to make the climb to pay her respects to a great man of his age. She rested three times along the way and finally made it. Looking down toward the mausoleum gate, you see only landings and no steps, and gazing into the distance over Nanjing, you take in the whole sweep of the Yangtze River and the Qinhuai.
On the west side of the third platform of the stairs stands a bronze ding commemorating the interment, about one meter high and modeled on the Mao Gong Ding. We saw visitors tossing coins into it, praying for peace and prosperity for the nation and its people and for good weather.
At the highest point we came to the sacrificial hall, 30 meters long, 25 meters wide and 29 meters high, with three arched doorways across its front. The lintels bear the inscriptions "民族" (Nationalism), "民權" (Democracy) and "民生" (People's Livelihood), and above the arches are carved the four characters "天地正氣" (The Righteous Spirit of Heaven and Earth).
In the center of the hall is a seated marble statue of Dr. Sun, 4.6 meters high. It was carved from Italian white marble by the famous French sculptor Paul Landowski (Paul Maximillien Landowski, 1875–1961) over two and a half years. His works also include the world-famous statue of Christ in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
The sacrificial hall connects to the tomb chamber, where Dr. Sun's body lies in a crystal coffin. The chamber is 5 meters deep and 4 meters in diameter, sealed outside with reinforced concrete. From behind the white marble balustrade, visitors can look down on the recumbent white marble statue of the Father of the Nation above the coffin. A great man of his age sleeps here forever. In deep silence we prayed that his spirit in heaven would protect China, so that it may endure and flourish for all time. (5)
It was nearly dusk when we left the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum and took a taxi to the Confucius Temple on the north bank of the Qinhuai River.
The Confucius Temple
Within two kilometers of the Confucius Temple are the historic sites of Wuyi Lane and Zhuque Bridge, and not far away is a pier where you can board a painted boat for a night cruise on the Qinhuai River.
The Confucius Temple stands west of the Jiangnan Examination Hall, where the imperial examinations were held to select talent for office. The Confucius Temple in Nanjing is one of the four great Confucian temples of China. Temple, market and street scene are all one here, and the Gongyuan Street shopping district brings together culture, tourism, food and shopping.
After dinner at Yin's Chicken-Broth Soup Dumplings (尹氏鷄汁湯包店), founded in 1926 (year 15 of the Republic), we strolled to the ancient lane of Wuyi Lane, a historic site 1,700 years old, to explore its hidden charms.
Wuyi Lane ("Black Robe Lane") was where Sun Quan of Eastern Wu in the Three Kingdoms period stationed troops and trained his navy. It got its name because the soldiers all wore black. To reach Wuyi Lane you cross a stone arch bridge, Zhuque Bridge.
The Tang poet Liu Yuxi (772–842) once wrote a poem titled "Wuyi Lane" (烏衣巷) about Wuyi Lane and Zhuque Bridge, which captures the prosperity of the place in its day.
The poem, a seven-character quatrain, reads:
By Zhuque Bridge the wild grasses are in flower, (朱雀橋邊野草花，)
At the mouth of Wuyi Lane the evening sun slants low. (烏衣巷口夕陽斜。)
(斜, "slants," is read here as xia)
The swallows that once nested before the halls of the Wangs and the Xies (舊時王謝堂前燕，)
Now fly into the homes of ordinary folk. (飛入尋常百姓家。)
The Eastern Jin statesman and calligrapher Wang Dao (276–339, uncle of Wang Xizhi) and Xie An (320–385), who directed the Battle of the Fei River (383), both lived for many years in Wuyi Lane.
The world goes through great changes; the places remain, but the people are gone. Walking along the banks of the Qinhuai River, I was deeply moved. The people of Nanjing carry an air of open-hearted sincerity and take the ups and downs of the world and of fate lightly, and there are historical reasons for this. (6)
The Confucius Temple shopping district was bustling with crowds coming and going, and the old lanes, arched bridges and riverside scenery were all before our eyes. It brought to mind the market scenes in "Along the River During the Qingming Festival" (清明上河圖), painted by the Hanlin Academy painter Zhang Zeduan (1085–1145) of the North Song Dynasty (960–1126). Comparing the two, one was in Bianjing (Kaifeng, also called Dongjing, the Eastern Capital) and the other in Nanjing, with 850 years between the people of old and the people of today. Yet the bustling, lively scenes inside and outside the city were the same.
The Qinhuai River
When we came to the pier for the painted boats on the Qinhuai River, the line of people waiting for boats was already several hundred meters long. It took us about five minutes to walk to the end of it, and we estimated there were eight or nine hundred people. Nearly 30 minutes later it was our turn to board. Luckily we had tickets the hotel had booked in advance; otherwise we would have waited another half hour.
Across from the pier is a screen wall built in the 3rd year of the Wanli reign of the Ming emperor Shenzong (1575), 110 meters long, 40 meters high and 8 meters wide, the largest in the country. On its red surface two golden dragons coil toward each other in relief, lifelike under the lights.
There are more than 40 painted boats, each seating 50 people when full. They leave from the pier, pass East Water Gate Park and the Zhonghua Gate fortress, and turn back, a trip of about 50 minutes.
Along the ten li of the Qinhuai, red lanterns glow and wine flows green, with music and song every night in a whirl of luxury and pleasure. I imagine that since the Six Dynasties, countless romantic affairs have all played out on the Qinhuai.
In the late Ming (the Chongzhen reign of Emperor Sizong, 1628–1643), the Qinhuai had its "Eight Beauties," of whom Chen Yuanyuan, Li Xiangjun and Dong Xiaowan were famous in their day. Li Xiangjun (1624–1654) and Dong Xiaowan (1642–1651) had rather similar lives and fortunes. Both came from Suzhou and grew up at the end of the Ming and the beginning of the Qing. Both were natural beauties, skilled in music, chess, calligraphy and painting, and each had her own story of a gifted scholar and a beautiful woman.
In May 2019, the Qinhuai River introduced 5G smart tour boats. With 360-degree VR, you can see deep into the scenery along the banks and the exteriors and interiors of the Ming and Qing pavilions while sitting on the moving boat, without going ashore. One can imagine sitting face to face with Li Xiangjun and Dong Xiaowan, chatting freely about art and literature. Technology advances by leaps and bounds, and distances of time and space are gone. (7)
On Saturday, February 13, at nine in the morning, our first stop was the former Presidential Office of the Republic of China.
The Presidential Office
The Presidential Office in Nanjing is the largest and best-preserved group of buildings surviving from modern Chinese architecture.
Its ancient buildings date back to the 2nd year of Jian'an in Eastern Wu during the Three Kingdoms (197 AD). They were used in turn by the Eastern Jin and the Southern Dynasties (Song, Qi, Liang and Chen), together the "palaces of the Six Dynasties," and later became the rear palace of the Southern Tang (937–975) during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms.
Over eight hundred years of wind, frost, rain and snow, and of destruction by war, the original buildings were reduced to broken walls and ruins.
They were rebuilt twice, in the 11th year of Qianlong (1746) and the 9th year of Tongzhi (1870), giving the buildings their present layout. In 1936 (year 25 of the Republic), the noted architect Lu Binglie redesigned and renovated them again, giving them a more modern architectural form.
After the Daoguang reign of the Qing, it served in turn as the Heavenly King's Palace of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, the office of the Viceroy of Liangjiang, the Jiangnan Governor-General's office, the Jiangning Imperial Silk Manufactory, and the Presidential Office of the Republic of China.
On January 1, 1912 (year 1 of the Republic), Dr. Sun Yat-sen was sworn in here as Provisional President of the Republic of China. In 1948 (year 37 of the Republic), Chiang Kai-shek and Li Zongren, the first President and Vice President of the Republic of China under the constitution, were also sworn in here.
This seat of the central government of the Republic of China was several times in history the target of armies entering the city to capture it. 1. On March 23, 1927 (year 16 of the Republic), the National Revolutionary Army of the Northern Expedition recovered Nanjing. 2. On December 13, 1937 (year 26 of the Republic), the Japanese army captured Nanjing and carried out a massacre. 3. On April 23, 1949 (year 38 of the Republic), the Chinese Communist People's Liberation Army crossed the Yangtze River, and Nanjing fell.
Inside the former Presidential Office we toured courtyard by courtyard, through the offices of the President and Vice President, the conference rooms and the offices of the various bureaus and departments. In the conference room the flag of the Republic of China and the flag of the Kuomintang still hang.
A whole history of springs and autumns, a thousand years of a lonely loyal minister's tears. Success and failure seldom last long; rise and fall come in the blink of an eye. Walking into the former Presidential Office and looking back on the flourishing and the decline of the Republic, I was filled with emotion. (8)
After leaving the former Presidential Office, we took advantage of the taxi to get a glimpse of the nearby historic buildings on Changjiang Road, the "First Street of Culture," passing by without getting out. They included Pilu Temple, the Meiyuan Memorial Hall, Nanjing Library, the Jiangning Imperial Silk Manufacturing Museum, the Jiangsu Art Museum and the Jinling Library.
Li Yu of the Southern Tang
On the way to Xuanwu Lake, we deliberately went by way of Danfeng Street to look for traces of Li Houzhu (Li Yu, 937–978) of the Southern Tang (937–975) of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms. Although the remains are long gone, a sign still marks the site of China's earliest painting academy. Li Yu often invited a circle of men of letters, led by his teacher Feng Yansi (903–960, a native of Yangzhou, an important minister of the Southern Tang and a famous ci poet whose lyrics mostly dealt with leisurely moods and refined pleasures), to discuss literature and art here. There was also a Repentance Sutra Tower, said to be where Li Yu burned incense and chanted to the Buddha.
We hadn't realized how close this street was to our hotel in Xinjiekou; only then did we learn that the remains of the Southern Tang were right before our eyes. We had the good fortune to be staying amid the mists and waters of the Six Dynasties.
Li Yu grew up surrounded by music, chess, calligraphy and painting, a born man of letters. But history played a great joke on Li Yu and made him an emperor.
In 975 (the eighth year of the Kaibao reign of Emperor Taizu of Song), on the lunar New Year's Day, the North Song Dynasty took Jinling, and Li Yu was captured along with his empress and 45 of his civil and military ministers. Li Yu was then 39 and his empress 26. They were held under house arrest in Luoyang for two and a half years. Emperor Taizong of Song (Zhao Guangyi, younger brother of Taizu, who reigned for 22 years, 976–997) never imagined that this captive emperor would, during his confinement, write the most moving words of his life, as heart-rending as the cuckoo weeping blood. One example is his lyric to the tune *Yu Meiren*: "Spring flowers, autumn moon, when will they end? How much of the past do I still recall? Last night the east wind blew again through my small tower; in the bright moonlight I cannot bear to look back on my lost kingdom. The carved balustrades and jade steps must still be there; only the rosy faces have changed. Ask me how much sorrow I can hold: as much as a river of spring water flowing east." (春花秋月何時了，往事知多少，小樓昨夜又東風，故國不堪回首月明中，雕欄玉砌應猶在，只是朱顏改，問君能有幾多愁，恰似一江春水向東流。)
It was this very lyric that made Emperor Taizong of Song resolve to kill him, believing he meant to rebel. Li Yu was poisoned, and his empress hanged herself.
In the history of Chinese literature, Tang poetry is regarded as the peak of the art. After the fall of the Tang came the divided era of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, and Tang poetry went into decline. Yet Li Yu of the Southern Tang carried on its lifeblood and established the aesthetic standing of the Song lyric, influencing later poets such as Su Shi, Qin Guan, Zhou Bangyan, Li Qingzhao and Xin Qiji. (9)
Past Danfeng Street, our next stop, Xuanwu Lake, was drawing near. As the wheels rolled on, my thoughts rose and fell without pause. The same place, a different time. Flowers bloom and fade; swallows leave and return. A pot of clear tea, a half-finished game of chess. From Zhao Guangyi's conquest of the Southern Tang to the Japanese army's slaughter of the city.
【Xuanwu Lake】
Passing Jiming Temple, we came to Xuanwu Lake, a place full of poetry and beauty. Xuanwu Lake, also called Back Lake (後湖), lies west of Zhongshan (Purple Mountain). To the north it faces the low hill of Dahongshan, and to the south it adjoins Mount Jiuhua, now a park. The lake is 30 li around.
We followed the lakeside road north to the outside of Xuanwu Gate, then walked about ten minutes to the water's edge.
Several pleasure boats were moored at the pier, with visitors waiting to board for a cruise. In the distance, the five islands in the lake have been laid out as parks. There are pavilions and terraces with fine views, paths lined with willows, long causeways winding across the water, rippling waves catching the light, and cool breezes off the lake, where people go boating and fishing. We stayed for two hours, then went on to pay our respects at the Memorial Hall of the Victims in Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Invaders. (10)
On August 13, 1937 (year 26 of the Republic), the Battle of Shanghai between China and Japan began. It lasted 106 days, until the Nationalist army fully withdrew from Shanghai on November 26. The Republic of China's strategy succeeded, and its forces were moved to the capital, Nanjing. Suzhou, Wuxi and Changshu (today's Changzhou) fell one after another.
In mid-October, Yin Jihe (my maternal grandfather), then a first lieutenant clerk in the independent battalion of the Army's 1st Signal Regiment, moved his family from Zhenjiang to Nanjing and settled them near his post at Gulou.
On December 13, two days before the Japanese army captured Nanjing, on a bitterly cold morning of light rain, my maternal grandfather took the whole family across the Yangtze River to Pukou on the far bank. They went with the Nationalist army's rear office (reorganized during the civil war as the Rear Services Department of the Combined Service Forces) to the interior (Free China), and then my grandfather returned to his unit.
My grandmother took her three children to Hankou. There she learned that my grandfather was missing. It was later confirmed that he had been killed in the defense of Nanjing.
On the way to the memorial hall, this chapter of history kept circling in my mind. My wife Xiulian and our two sons know this history well.
During his three years working in Shanghai, Anderson went to the memorial hall four times to pay his respects: twice alone (once in the rain), once with his elder brother Anthony, and this time with his parents. (11)
On August 15, 1985, the 40th anniversary of victory in the War of Resistance against Japan, the Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party decided to establish the Memorial Hall of the Victims in Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Invaders. The site chosen was No. 418 Xishuimen Street, on the west bank of Mochou Lake, and construction began.
【The Memorial Hall of the Victims】
On December 13, 2007, the 70th anniversary of the massacre, the whole memorial hall opened to the public, and nearly 20,000 people poured in on that one day. It was later rated a national first-grade museum and a national demonstration base for patriotic education.
The site covers 74,000 square meters, with a floor area of 25,000 square meters and an exhibition area of 9,800 square meters. It has three parts: the park, the outdoor plaza displays and the historical exhibition.
Several large sculptures stand on the plaza, depicting "The Catastrophe of the Ancient City." The indoor exhibition is divided into eight sections, showing more than 3,000 artifacts, 3,500 pictures and over 200 photographs.
Entering the exhibition hall and going down the stone steps, you find on the left the archive room of the victims' personal files, one for each person, neatly arranged on the shelves. Next to the archive room is a stone wall nearly 3 meters high and about 80 meters long, engraved with the names of the victims. The 7th session of the Standing Committee of the 12th National People's Congress decided that December 13 each year would be the National Memorial Day for the Victims of the Nanjing Massacre. (12)
On August 12, 2015, Anderson went to Nanjing on a two-day business trip. By noon the next day he had finished his work, and in the afternoon he went to the memorial hall to pay his respects. He planned the trip this way on purpose, out of a desire to understand more deeply the history of China's eight-year War of Resistance against Japan. Nanjing is a city of sorrow for China, and it is also where his great-grandfather gave his life for his country, killed in action facing the enemy. Nanjing is also where his great-grandmother, his grandmother, his great-uncle and his great-aunt once lived. Most important of all, he wanted to find his great-grandfather's records in the memorial hall's archive room.
It comforts me that this boy, born in Taiwan and raised and educated abroad, keeps the roots of his own life so close to his heart.
He looked carefully at the artifacts in the exhibition halls and took notes. At the stone wall of victims he hoped to see his great-grandfather's name. Among the tens of thousands of names, finding one person is no easy task.
Perhaps it was by the grace of the Lord: before he had walked two minutes, his great-grandfather's name, "Yin Jihe (尹季和)," came into view. He hurried at once to the archive room to see whether he could go further and find his great-grandfather's file.
With the help of the staff, he finally found it in the computer database. He prayed silently that his great-grandfather in heaven would know that his great-grandson had come to see him.
Back in Shanghai, he made a video call and told his grandmother first, who was still living then. She was overcome. Her joy turned to weeping, the tears streamed down, and for a long time she could not speak. (13)
Accompanied by a member of staff, Anderson soon found the file box of his great-grandfather Yin Jihe on the archive shelves. It was a finely made wooden box, 11 inches long, 8 inches wide and 2 inches high. He took out the documents inside: a standard form with its attachment, only a sheet of paper. The form listed the victim's date of birth, native place, sex and a brief account of his life, and that was all.
Anderson asked the staff whether he might provide some documents about the deceased, such as a memorial tribute, to enrich the file, and the answer was a very warm welcome.
Half a year later, on February 13, 2016, Anderson came to the memorial hall again with Xiulian and me, and this time he brought a precious document: the certificate of posthumous honour signed in 1948 (year 37 of the Republic) by Chiang Kai-shek, Chairman of the Nationalist Government. Its text read: "Yin Jihe, first lieutenant clerk of the independent battalion of the Army's 1st Signal Regiment, was killed in action in the War of Resistance at Nanjing in December of the 26th year of the Republic. His loyal devotion to his country is a model worthy of honour. This certificate is specially issued to record forever his honour in death. So certified.
Chiang Kai-shek, Chairman of the Nationalist Government"
When Anderson's grandmother received this certificate all those years ago, she had wept aloud.
We laid the certificate (a copy) respectfully flat in the box and stood in silent tribute and remembrance. Afterwards we looked around the exhibits in the hall and left after about an hour. Outside the wind had risen, and a light rain was falling. As planned, we went to Zhongshan Wharf and gazed across at Pukou on the far bank, where my grandfather had said his last farewell to his family.
Then we went to the Nanjing Yangtze River Bridge (completed in September 1968). In 1990, on my parents' second visit to relatives on the mainland, close relatives in Shanghai had accompanied them to this bridge to make offerings from afar. That ended our two days and two nights in Nanjing. The next morning we continued to our next stop: Bengbu in Anhui and the old city of Fengyang. (14, end of this essay)
Essay 16: A Trip to Bengbu and Fengyang
February 14, 2016 was Valentine's Day in the West and also a Sunday. I was in good spirits, though with a touch of parting sadness. Before nine in the morning we reached Nanjing South Station and boarded a bullet train on the Beijing–Shanghai high-speed railway. It crossed the Yangtze bridge and headed northwest to Bengbu in Anhui. The train left at 10:32 a.m. and arrived at Bengbu North Station at 12:07 p.m., a ride of only 1 hour and 35 minutes.
Bengbu lies on the south bank of the Huai River, where the old Tianjin–Pukou and Huainan railways met. Because it was rich in freshwater mussel pearls, it is also called "Pearl City."
We deliberately chose to get off at the North Station so we could see with our own eyes this old station on the former Tianjin–Pukou Railway, a witness to a century in which it suffered the ravages of war.
Bengbu was once a small town on the Huai River. Once the Tianjin–Pukou Railway opened and ran through it, it leapt to become the largest city in northern Anhui and an important military stronghold. The railway brought it prosperity, and it also brought it disaster.
People in Bengbu often say: Bengbu is a city the train pulled here. North of the city is a railway bridge across the Huai River (today the Huai River Twin Railway Bridges), the second largest after the Yellow River railway bridge.
The Bengbu Huai River railway bridge was "bombed twice and repaired three times." In 1937 the War of Resistance broke out in full. Early the next year the Japanese army, still stained with the blood of the Nanjing Massacre, reached Bengbu. To block the Japanese and cut off reinforcements for the Japanese forces in the Battle of Xuzhou, the Nationalist army was ordered to blow up the bridge. The Japanese, needing it for the war, finished repairing it that same year.
From the start of the Battle of Xuzhou–Bengbu (which the Communists call the Huaihai Campaign) in November 1948 to the evacuation of Bengbu on January 10 of the next year, the Nationalist army, to stop the Communist troops moving south, was again ordered to blow up the bridge.
On January 20, 1949 (year 38 of the Republic), the People's Liberation Army's railway army group made emergency repairs, building a pontoon bridge beside the wrecked bridge so that trains could run for the time being, and the Communist army crossed the Huai River without trouble.
On April 20, 1949, the People's Liberation Army began its campaign to cross the Yangtze. Work on a temporary bridge began on May 1 and was finished on June 30. On November 16 of that year, after Nanjing and Shanghai had fallen, restoration work on the Bengbu Huai River railway bridge began, and it was completed on July 4, 1950 (year 39 of the Republic). With that, the whole Tianjin–Pukou Railway was open to traffic again. It is truly a railway history of war and upheaval. (1)
The Beijing–Shanghai high-speed railway runs right through the city of Bengbu. Heading from south to north, the train passes East Lushan, the High-Speed Rail New District and the Zhuizishan Scenic Area before reaching Bengbu station.
As soon as we got off, I felt that this old station was like an old man in the twilight of his years, weathered by wind and hardship, yet still with an air of standing firm and unshaken.
It took ten minutes to walk from the platform to the exit, and I felt the great changes of history and a chill sadness seeping into my heart. After all, during the Battle of Xuzhou–Bengbu this old station was a vital supply depot for moving troops and logistical support.
Coming out of the station, I was pleasantly surprised: the square in front seemed familiar, like the station of a Taiwan Railway branch line, and I felt a warm affection for it, though it hardly counted as a square. Around it were more snack shops than general stores. In the middle was a traffic circle ringed by street stalls, two of them selling fresh flowers for Valentine's Day.
On the side by the main road was a bus stop, and a long line of taxis waited for fares. We had lunch at a McDonald's. Outside, several battery-powered "rooster carts," popularly called "baobao cars," were also touting for customers, at fares much cheaper than a taxi: 10 yuan per person anywhere in the city. It felt new and fun. We picked one of the newer cars. The driver was a middle-aged man of nearly 60 with a strong Anhui accent, which I could still understand. Along the way he pointed out the sights: "This is Caoshan, this bridge is Pearl Bridge, up ahead is Tushan East Road, we're almost at the Nanshan Howard Johnson Hotel."
The baobao car stopped at the end of a narrow lane and went no farther. The driver said, "Sir, ma'am, I'm sorry. Just ahead is the back gate of the hotel. It's only a few steps, and you can go in through the back. Cars like ours aren't allowed to stop at the front entrance of a big hotel, or the police will take us away and fine us."
He seemed an honest, simple man, so we got out. We didn't use the back gate. Our luggage was light, so we walked around and went in through the front entrance, which was another new experience. (2)
The Nanshan Howard Johnson Hotel (南山豪生大酒店) stands where Tushan East Road meets Yan'an Road. From the bedroom window of our room on the 23rd floor I looked out over the streets of Bengbu. Tall buildings stood packed close together, and traffic streamed back and forth. It was hard to imagine that this was a second-tier city. Today's Bengbu has become a modern metropolis that is both an old town and a new city.
Following our itinerary, in the afternoon we went to see the tourist attraction of Hequan Farm. Leaving the hotel, we turned right and drove straight west along Tushan Avenue, past Heihushan Road and onto Donghai Avenue. After about an hour we reached the Mount Tu Scenic Area.
Mount Tu is a small hill west of Bengbu, three hundred meters above sea level. At its foot lies the home of Yu the Great, China's master of flood control, who lived 4,200 years ago. The scenery is beautiful and of great value for tourism. The city authorities therefore planned and created the 350-acre "Hequan Farm" in 2001. Nearby, across Donghai Avenue, they set up the "Senhe Modern Flower Science and Technology Industrial Park" (森禾現代花卉科技產業園), which was completed in 2012.
Hequan Farm has opened several exhibition halls and an ecological clubhouse, which display the folk customs of northern Anhui and promote the culture of Yu the Great.
The Senhe Modern Flower Park, also called the Bengbu Flower Expo Park, uses modern technology to develop new varieties and supplies them to provinces, cities and autonomous regions across the country. Inside the park are a perennial garden (the cultivation center), a peony garden, a bamboo garden, a plum blossom garden, an azalea garden, a rose garden, a semicircular plaza and a wedding plaza. If you come to Bengbu, you must not miss these two sights. We stayed here nearly three hours, then hurried off to visit Xiulian's Second Elder Sister and her husband, which was also one of the purposes of this trip.
Second Elder Sister and her husband are both retired. They live in the staff housing of the "Bengbu Glass Industry Design and Research Institute" (蚌埠玻璃工業設計研究院), on the same street (Tushan Avenue). Her husband is a calligrapher and also a master of traditional Chinese bird-and-flower painting. Glass developed by the Glass Design and Research Institute has long been used in high-rise buildings in countries around the world.
We had dinner at an Anhui restaurant, and Second Elder Sister chose several authentic Anhui dishes we had never eaten before: Bengbu's specialty crayfish, sesame flatbread stuffed with pork tenderloin, and Xueyuan's four-colored glutinous rice balls in a thick sweet soup of fermented rice wine.
The lakes and rivers on the outskirts of Bengbu teem with crayfish (螞蝦, also called 小龍蝦). Bengbu was the first city in China where eating crayfish became popular. Their freshness, fragrance and tenderness leave a lingering taste in the mouth and make you want more.
Sesame flatbread stuffed with pork tenderloin is Bengbu's most distinctive food. It is not merely a snack but part of the food culture of ordinary people.
The Xueyuan fermented-rice-wine rice balls are made to a unique recipe from carefully chosen ingredients. They give you the feeling that "you don't know until you've tried them, and once you've tried them you can never forget them" (不吃不知道，一吃忘不掉).
That night it was bitterly cold outside. From the restaurant we went on to their home and talked happily until nearly midnight. So ended our first delightful day in Bengbu. (3)
On our second day in Bengbu (February 15), at nine in the morning, we set off on a day trip to Fengyang in a hired taxi arranged by the hotel and driven by a driver surnamed Hu, Master Hu. The itinerary included the Ming Imperial Tomb (Huangling), Longxing Temple and the Drum Tower. Master Hu suggested adding one more stop on the way, the former headquarters of the General Front Committee of the Yangtze River Crossing Campaign, and we gladly accepted.
[Sunjia Weizi, Bengbu]
During the Chinese Civil War, the Chinese Communists had a body called the "supreme command center for frontline operations." It was also known as the "General Front Committee" (總前敵委員會), or "總前委" for short. During the Huaihai Campaign this body was based in Xuzhou. After that campaign ended, the Chinese Communists pressed on to the next phase of their offensive: crossing the Yangtze River to take Nanjing directly, and then capturing Shanghai.
The Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party decided to move the General Front Committee south to Sunjia Weizi in Bengbu, the most advantageous position for command. Bengbu lies at the junction of the old Tianjin–Pukou Railway and the Huainan Railway. The Tianjin–Pukou Railway ends at Pukou, which faces Nanjing across just a stretch of water.
Sunjia Weizi lies at the foot of Xilu Mountain, southeast of Bengbu. The General Front Committee of the Yangtze River Crossing Campaign was located inside the walled village, and only one road passed by it. The site was well hidden.
In 2004 the People's Government of Anhui Province began restoring the site. The work was completed and the site opened to the public on December 26, 2008, under the name "Memorial Hall of the Former Headquarters of the General Front Committee of the Yangtze River Crossing Campaign." It covers 20.4 mu, with a floor area of 1,230 square meters and an exhibition area of 1,100 square meters. To keep the original architectural style, the restoration followed the principle of "repairing the old as it was and restoring its original appearance."
On March 22, 1949 (year 38 of the Republic), the General Front Committee of Deng Xiaoping, Chen Yi and Tan Zhenlin moved in from Xuzhou, together with the East China Bureau, the forward command of the East China Military Region and the headquarters of the Third Field Army. Deng Xiaoping personally drafted the guiding outline of operations for the Yangtze River Crossing Campaign.
On April 21 the People's Liberation Army crossed the Yangtze River. On the 24th Nanjing fell, and on May 26 Shanghai fell. We stayed in the memorial hall less than an hour, with mixed feelings, lost in silent thought. Our next stop was the Ming Imperial Tomb. (4)
The Ming Imperial Tomb lies 7 kilometers south of the town of Fengyang County, Anhui Province, and 15 kilometers southeast of central Bengbu. It is the burial place of the parents, elder brother and sister-in-law of Ming Taizu (the Hongwu Emperor), Zhu Yuanzhang.
[The Ming Imperial Tomb]
The family graves were first built in 1366 (the 26th year of Zhizheng under Emperor Shun of Yuan). Two years later, in 1368, Zhu Yuanzhang became the founding ruler of the Ming dynasty, with the temple name Taizu and the reign title Hongwu.
In 1379 (the 12th year of Hongwu), the family graves were expanded into a mausoleum complex covering 20,000 mu and enclosed by three rings of walls. Its palace halls and buildings are stately and magnificent, and they are now more than 650 years old.
In front of the tombs runs a "spirit way" nearly 200 meters long. It is lined on both sides by 32 pairs of stone statues, and there is one Imperial Tomb Stele and one Blank Stele, each more than 20 feet tall and each sheltered by a stele pavilion.
Zhu Yuanzhang wrote the text of the Imperial Tomb Stele himself. It has 26 lines of 56 characters each, in regular script, with a heading in seal script that reads "Stele of the Imperial Tomb of the Great Ming" (大明皇陵之碑). The first 41 characters of the first line (without punctuation) read: "In days gone by my imperial father dwelt in this place; farming was hard, and morning and evening he was anxious and uneasy. Then suddenly calamity spread from Heaven and our family met disaster: my late imperial father died at sixty-four, and my late imperial mother at fifty-nine" (昔我父皇，寓居是方，農業艱辛，朝夕旁徨，俄爾天災流行，眷屬罹殃，皇考終於六十有四，皇妣五十九而亡). The inscription has a sweeping grandeur, and the stone statues are finely carved, the best of any imperial tomb in history. It has been entered in Guinness World Records, and in 1982 it was listed as a national key cultural relics protection site. (5)
On the road to our next stop, Longxing Temple, we talked about how the Ming emperors' tombs were built. For years I had wanted to learn more about this but had never got around to it. Only after we returned home to Los Angeles on February 20 that year did I find some material and do some homework, and at last I had a satisfying answer.
The Ming dynasty ruled China for 294 years (1368–1661), with 16 emperors in all (from Ming Taizu, Zhu Yuanzhang, to Emperor Sizong, Zhu Youjian (the Chongzhen Emperor)). Apart from Taizu, who built the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum in Nanjing; the second emperor, Emperor Hui, Zhu Yunwen (the Jianwen Emperor) (born in 1377, the 10th year of Hongwu, Taizu's eldest grandson), who fled abroad to the South Seas; and the seventh emperor, Jingzong, Zhu Qiyu (the Jingtai Emperor) (reigned 15 years, 1450–1464), who built the Jingtai Mausoleum at Jinshan in Beijing, the remaining 13 emperors were buried in the Ming Tombs, a complex of tomb buildings in a small basin of 40 square kilometers at the foot of Tianshou Mountain, in what is now Changping District, Beijing.
Taizu's eldest son, Zhu Biao (born in 1355, the 15th year of Zhizheng under Emperor Shun of Yuan; died in 1392, the 25th year of Hongwu, aged 36), would have been the second Ming emperor had he not died young, with the temple name Xingzong. Taizu honored him as Crown Prince Yiwen and built the Ming Eastern Mausoleum (Dongling) especially for him, with the rites of an emperor, on the southern slope of Purple Mountain east of the Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum.
In addition, Zhu Yuanzhang built the Ming Imperial Tomb in Fengyang, Anhui (where his parents, elder brother and sister-in-law were buried), the Ming Ancestral Tomb (Zuling) in Xuyi, Anhui (where his grandparents, great-grandparents and great-great-grandparents were buried), and the Ming Xianling Mausoleum in Zhongxiang, Hubei (where the parents of Emperor Shizong, Zhu Houcong (the Jiajing Emperor), were buried). So the Ming dynasty had as many as 19 tomb sites. (6)
North of Fengyang town stands Longxing Temple, first built in 1383 (the 16th year of Hongwu), where Zhu Yuanzhang worshipped the Buddha. At the temple entrance is a memorial archway with three bays and four pillars, three tiers high. In the middle the four characters "Ancient Longxing Monastery" (龍興古剎) are written in Liu-style calligraphy, with golden dragon motifs on either side, solemn and grand. Red walls enclose the temple grounds, about two mu in area. After a walk along a flagstone path, you see the Mahavira Hall standing in the center. It has five bays and six pillars and is 50 feet high, with meditation rooms on either side. In front of the hall stands a bronze pagoda-shaped incense burner about 30 feet tall. The temple was damaged during the Cultural Revolution. After it was restored, in 1993 the Fengyang county government invited the Abbot Huiqing, vice president of the Buddhist Association of Mount Jiuhua (in Chizhou City, Anhui Province), to head it, and it was listed as a national key temple open to the public.
On the back of the admission ticket was a brief introduction of a hundred-odd characters. It was slightly at odds with the official histories and not very clear. Curiously, it also bore eight large characters: "Offer incense in a civilized way; respect the temple rules" (文明敬香尊重寺規).
Longxing Temple has a long connection with Ming Taizu, Zhu Yuanzhang (born on October 21, 1328, the first year of Tianli under Emperor Mingzong of Yuan, the eighth day of the eighth lunar month; died on June 24, 1398, the 31st year of Hongwu).
Zhu Yuanzhang was born into a poor peasant family. His parents were tenant farmers, and as a child he herded cattle for a landlord. In 1344 (the fourth year of Zhizheng under Emperor Shun of Yuan), plague struck Haozhou (today's Chuzhou, Anhui), and he was reduced to begging. With the help of an old woman named Hong, he entered Huangjue Temple and became a monk when he was only sixteen.
Seven years later, in 1351 (the 11th year of Zhizheng), Guo Zixing and others from Dingyuan, Anhui, rose up against the Yuan, and Zhu Yuanzhang joined Guo's camp. In the 13th year of Zhizheng, Guo Zixing and Zhu Yuanzhang took Haozhou. In the 21st year of Zhizheng, Zhu Yuanzhang captured Jiangzhou (today's Jiujiang, Jiangxi), and Chen Youliang, the Prince of Han, fled in defeat to Wuchang. By then Zhu Yuanzhang had secured his position as leader. In the 23rd year of Zhizheng, Chen Youliang was killed in battle and Zhu Yuanzhang took the title Prince of Wu. In the 27th year of Zhizheng, the Prince of Wu led his forces on the Northern Expedition and swept all the way to Shandong. The following year (1368) he took Guangdong and Henan and reached Beijing (the Yuan capital). Chang Yuchun pacified the Central Plains, and Li Shanchang and others acclaimed the Prince of Wu as emperor, with the dynastic name Ming and the reign title Hongwu.
Huangjue Temple was built during the Xianchun era (1265–1274) of Emperor Duzong of the Southern Song. Worn down by long years of wind and frost, it had fallen into ruin. In 1383 (the 16th year of Hongwu), Zhu Yuanzhang, remembering his days as a monk relying on the Buddha, built Longxing Temple not far from Huangjue Temple. (7)
"Fengyang Flower Drum" is an Anhui folk song that became popular in the early Ming. Its tune and lyrics exist in different versions, all praising the merits and virtues of Ming Taizu, Zhu Yuanzhang. One set of lyrics goes: "Speak of Fengyang, tell of Fengyang, the flower drum in our hands goes dong-dong; Fengyang is truly a fine place, the emperor's grace is boundless all year round; no corvée labor and no grain tax, both banks of the Huai River are full of joy" (說鳳陽，道鳳陽，手打花鼓咚咚響，鳳陽真是好地方，皇恩四季都浩蕩，不服徭役不納糧，淮河兩岸喜洋洋).
"Fengyang Flower Drum" first appears in written records during the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing dynasty. One set of lyrics describes how hard life was for the people of Fengyang County in the Hongwu years. It implies that Zhu Yuanzhang neglected the people of his hometown and left them unable to make a settled living there. This claim runs counter to the facts and is open to question.
As for the Fengyang Drum Tower, it is a drum-shaped building modeled on the Fengyang flower drum, built in 1375 (the eighth year of Hongwu). It is the largest drum tower in China. It stands at the eastern end of Yunji Street on the secondary axis of Fengyang (the Ming dynasty's Middle Capital) and faces the Bell Tower at the western end, six li away.
The Drum Tower has two parts, a stone base and the tower hall. The stone platform is 15.8 meters high, 34.25 meters wide from east to west and 72 meters long from north to south. From the ground to the top of the roof, the tower hall is 47.19 meters high, which also makes it the tallest of China's drum towers. It was built five years earlier than the Xi'an Drum Tower (completed in the 13th year of Hongwu). After more than 660 years, the Xi'an Drum Tower is still intact, but the Fengyang Drum Tower has had a troubled fate: it was burned down twice and restored twice. In 2007 it was designated an AAA-level tourist attraction, the same as the Xi'an Drum Tower.
In front of the Fengyang Drum Tower is a plaza set aside as a market for street vendors. It has every kind of goods, fruit, vegetables and snacks you could want, and it has become a popular spot for tourists. We lingered here for nearly two hours. After dark we returned to Bengbu to say goodbye to Second Elder Sister and her husband, and after dinner we went back to the hotel. Seen from our room, Bengbu's night view was especially dazzling. The next morning we took the high-speed train back to Shanghai from the new, modern Bengbu South Station, ending our delightful trip to Bengbu and Fengyang. (8, end of this chapter)
Essay 17: A Journey Along
the Mexican Coast
My younger son, Anderson, made use of the "October 1" National Day holiday and adjusted his work schedule. On September 25, 2015, he returned from Shanghai to our home in Los Angeles. The next day we were to set off on a family trip, which my elder son, Anthony, had arranged in advance: a seven-day voyage along Mexico's Pacific coast aboard the Carnival Miracle of Carnival Cruise Lines.
The ship is 88,500 tons, carries 2,124 passengers and 934 crew, is 963 feet long and nine decks high. The round trip covers 3,671 nautical miles (6,800 kilometers) and calls at three port cities: Cabo San Lucas at the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula, and Mazatlán and Puerto Vallarta on the Pacific coast. It departs from the port of Long Beach, California, and returns to Long Beach. (1)
At noon on September 26 we arrived at the port of Long Beach for check-in and security. At 1:30 p.m. we boarded and moved into cabin 5127 on the fifth deck. We were very pleased with this family cabin with a balcony, from which we could look straight out at the blue sky and sea during the voyage.
At 2 p.m. we went to the buffet restaurant for lunch. There were nearly a hundred kinds of food and drink, appealing in color, aroma and taste.
At 4 p.m. we went up on deck for a lifeboat drill. At 5 p.m. the ship weighed anchor and left the pier, and we watched the beautiful view of Long Beach harbor from our balcony. By the time the ship had slowly left port it was nearly 6 o'clock, and the vast Pacific Ocean lay before us.
Dusk was approaching, the setting sun sinking toward the horizon, and fishing boats dotted the sea. A quarter of an hour later we sailed into international waters, and to our delight a mist rose over the sea, schools of dolphins swam alongside the ship, and flying fish chased the dolphins.
After seven o'clock a bright moon appeared in the night sky, keeping company with the stars. The next day would be the Mid-Autumn Festival. "Over the sea rises the bright moon; at the ends of the earth we share this moment" (海上生明月，天涯共此時): at that moment, in that scene, the feeling of the poem "Gazing at the Moon and Longing for One Far Away" (望月懷遠) welled up in me.
The last time I had sailed the open sea was at the Spring Festival of 1964 (year 53 of the Republic), when I came back from Kinmen to Taiwan to visit my family and crossed the Taiwan Strait by night. Now, 51 years later, I was sailing the ocean once again. (2)
September 27 was the Mid-Autumn Festival of the yiwei year. At five in the morning, before sunrise, I looked out at the sea from our balcony. The moon still hung high in the cloudless western sky. Its light fell on the water and laid a golden path across it. In the distance a container ship was sailing in the opposite direction to our cruise ship, its lights clearly visible. It was the most beautiful sight at sea I had ever seen.
My wife and I are both in the habit of walking in the morning, so we went up to the top deck. One lap from bow to stern took seven minutes. During our days on board my wife kept to ten laps every day, while my stamina was only good for half of that. As the morning sun rose over the sea and the great ship sailed on, I watched the sun leap up from the horizon. I felt as though I were riding the wind and breaking the waves, with boundless sea and sky around me, my heart at ease and my spirit soaring above the clouds.
At the buffet at noon we saw a stout lady weighing at least 300 pounds, carrying a heaped plate of food and waiting in line for steak to be carved. When her turn came, she asked the server, "Sir, do you have any low-fat, salt-free sauce?" Everyone burst out laughing. She was not the least embarrassed and said calmly, "I just wanted to give everyone a laugh. When you're travelling, it's better to be a bit happier." She was as big-hearted as she was big, and she won a warm round of applause.
Every cruise ship has a casino. Ours was not large, but it offered every kind of game, with slot machines taking up half the floor. Smoking was banned throughout, and it was very popular with the passengers. We stayed there for nearly three hours. We made small bets and suffered small losses, and our enthusiasm faded, but we had been entertained.
The news reported that at seven o'clock that night there would be a total lunar eclipse, and that the best place in the world to watch it was the Pacific coast of Mexico, exactly where we were.
We were lucky. A total lunar eclipse happens only a handful of times in a century, and we had come upon this once-in-a-hundred-years wonder, on the Mid-Autumn Festival no less.
It was nearly six when we finished dinner and went up to the top deck to enjoy the sea breeze and wait for the eclipse.
At seven o'clock sharp the full moon began to wane, until at last it was completely hidden by the earth's shadow. The instant the earth's pale red shadow passed across the face of the moon, it was so beautiful it took our breath away, and the whole deck broke into cheers. By the time the moon was whole again it was ten o'clock. We sat down at a round table on the deck and enjoyed the mooncakes we had brought with coffee and tea. It was a Mid-Autumn Festival I will never forget. (3)
On Monday, September 28, after two days and two nights, 42 hours of sailing, we reached Cabo San Lucas at the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula at eleven in the morning. The route had taken us from Long Beach past San Diego (223 kilometres), into Mexican waters, and south along the peninsula.
The peninsula has the Pacific Ocean to its west and the Gulf of California to its east. It runs from northwest to southeast, 1,250 kilometres long and 50 to 250 kilometres wide, with an area of 143,000 square kilometres, the longest and narrowest peninsula in the world.
The peninsula is lined with volcanoes and has broad deserts and rolling mountain ranges, and the fragrance of cactus flowers fills the air. Cabo San Lucas also has natural rock caves carved by the sea over countless ages, and marine life in a thousand forms. It merges with the nearby town of San Jose del Cabo, separated from it only by a golden beach. Both towns have seaside hotels, and together they make a perfect holiday resort.
Cabo San Lucas is a small fishing-port town whose docks can take only fishing boats. Cruise ships have to anchor about a kilometre offshore, and passengers are ferried ashore by tender.
Once ashore, you can take a taxi around town for sightseeing or shopping, or you can take a small wooden boat to see the sights along the coast. It goes as far as the rock arch, where the water is so clear you can see the bottom, the sea breeze blows, and brightly coloured fish of every kind dart about. The boat stops at a sandbar, where you can go ashore and enjoy the cool shade of thatched shelters. Along the footpaths the coconut palms sway and flowers scent the air, and you hardly want to leave. The boatmen tout for business on the pier and charge 20 US dollars a person, well worth the price; an experience money can't buy.
Back on shore, we feasted at a restaurant on the pier, each ordering a Mexican dish: "spicy grilled fish steak, cactus stir-fried with green and red peppers, tender roasted asparagus with cheese and bacon, and Mexican quesadillas."
At six in the afternoon the tender came alongside the pier and took us back to the ship, ending a happy seven-hour visit to Cabo San Lucas. At seven in the evening the ship continued toward Mazatlán, the largest city on Mexico's Pacific coast. (4)
The ship weighed anchor at seven in the evening and headed from west to east, with moonlight shining on the bow. A quarter of an hour later we were in open water, and a strong east wind sprang up. The ship sailed into the wind, and an hour later we met a current running from south to north. Even an 88,000-ton liner under way could not help rolling, and this was when the seasickness pills came in handy. The 375-kilometre voyage took eleven hours. At six the next morning, September 29, we entered the waters off Mazatlán and watched the morning sun rise over the sea. At seven we entered the harbour, where the scenery was lovely, and forty minutes later we docked.
Looking down from our balcony, we saw a band on the pier playing a welcome song, while performers sang and danced. Two three-car trams with no railings, which you could board or leave from either side, took turns carrying passengers to the arrivals hall, where a boarding pass was all we needed to enter the country.
Leaving the hall, we found a blue guide line about 10 centimetres wide painted on the ground. Following it would take you to the city centre, through residential areas, parks and business districts. At every street corner there were volunteers and police serving the tourists, gentle, courteous and friendly. The volunteers wore blue T-shirts and the police, unarmed, wore yellow uniforms. All of them could explain the city to visitors in English and Spanish. A place that develops its tourism like this is worth learning from. (5)
We passed up the city tour bus and chose instead to wander on foot, to get as close to the city as we could. Following the blue line, we came first into a residential area. The streets were lined with shady green trees, the flagstone pavements were wide, and flower beds of every colour gave off their fragrance. Houses, each with its own courtyard, stood row upon row, the surroundings clean and quiet, far from the noise of the world.
The Mediterranean-style houses, with their half-open verandas, white walls, round arches and red tiles, and flower baskets hanging thick at the windows and over the doorways, fully showed the character of Spanish colonial architecture.
In the 16th century Spain and Portugal ruled the seas, with colonies across Africa, Asia, and Central and South America. A hundred years before the English Puritans settled in America, the Spanish had already seized Mexico. In each place they occupied, they chose a site to build a plaza and set up a stone pavilion. Around this centre a community gradually formed, which then grew into a town.
The stone pavilion was where the government proclaimed its decrees and where the people gathered. The plaza is as lovely as a park, and around it there is always the seat of government, with the town hall, police station, fire brigade, post office, church, hospital and market all nearby.
We arrived on foot just at noon, when Mass was beginning in the cathedral. We went in, lit a candle, and received Communion during the service, thanking God for arranging things this way. Afterwards we went into a supermarket and were surprised to find it on the scale of a first-class city.
Mexico's mountains rise and fall across the whole country from northwest to southeast. The northern mountains are rich in minerals: gold, silver, copper, iron, zinc and lead, and above all silver, for which it is famous throughout the world. To ship silver to Spain, this fishing port was enlarged into a commercial port. Today it is the leading trading port on Mexico's Pacific coast and has driven the city's growth. The silver dollars used in China at the end of the Qing and the start of the Republic, commonly called "eagle dollars" (鷹洋), were minted in Mexico and shipped from this port to the mainland. (6)
Not far south of the port area is a yacht club with its own marina, where you can hire yachts, sailboats, kayaks and canoes. Canoes may only be paddled within 200 metres of the shore, where you can enjoy paddling with schools of fish following you. The other boats can go out into the coastal waters to see dolphins swimming in groups and whales spouting.
Every Spanish colonial port city had a sea wall (malecón) built, and they are still well kept today. A broad seaside promenade runs along the sea wall, with a flower bed every hundred feet or so and bronze sculptures everywhere. The sea wall stands several zhang [a zhang is about 3.3 metres] above the sea, and the promenade lies a few feet below the top of the wall, so the whole ocean is spread out before your eyes.
On the inland side of the promenade there are gift shops and galleries. The shops sell local crafts, the galleries show the work of contemporary Mexican painters, and strolling musicians perform. We walked up and down the busiest stretch of the promenade and enjoyed a seaside stroll to our hearts' content.
A street of seafood restaurants runs right next to the promenade, and every one of them was doing a brisk trade. Grilled fatty fish and fried prawns are the most popular inexpensive dishes, cooked to secret recipes, fragrant and tender. We chose a seaside restaurant for our meal, and the seafood with Mexican beer was endlessly delicious. Good food, good drink, the sea breeze, ships breaking the waves in the distance: we almost forgot our boarding time and had to rush back to the pier by taxi. At six in the evening the ship left port for the next stop, Puerto Vallarta. (7)
In the light of the setting sun the ship sailed out of the harbour and headed south along the Pacific coast for 470 miles (756 kilometres) to Puerto Vallarta.
By midnight it was the early morning of September 30, and we were nearly halfway there. It was a night full of stars, and on the seventeenth day of the lunar month the moon was still full. Suddenly lightning began flashing without pause across the northern night sky, golden flashes among the layers of cloud, and the rumbling thunder woke me from my dreams. I threw on a jacket and went out on the balcony to look up at the sky, and for a moment I imagined I was on a cruise in the Arctic watching the polar lights.
At eight in the morning the ship sounded its horn and, guided by a pilot boat, slowly entered the harbour. Puerto Vallarta is the largest port on Mexico's Pacific coast for both trade and tourism, and its docks can take three giant cruise ships at once. It was opened as a port rather late, with construction of the port beginning in 1851 (the first year of the Xianfeng reign of the Qing dynasty), but it is larger than Mazatlán. For nearly 200 years it has kept its original old town, and it has also built a new town.
On the pier we saw a group of indigenous people in brightly coloured costumes with totem designs. Their long feather headdresses, woven of red, yellow, blue and green, looked much like a peacock spreading its tail. All of them were handsome men and beautiful women, singing and dancing to welcome the visitors.
Indigenous people make up a tenth of Mexico's population, which was 126 million in the census of the first quarter of 2020. The Aztecs are the largest group, living along the Pacific coast and on nearby islands.
Outside the arrivals hall was a square lined with craft shops and restaurants, along with a shopping centre. Tour coaches, buses and taxis each had their own stands. We chose to take a taxi into town, only a 20-minute ride. The streets are laid out in a grid, with the cross streets running parallel to the coast and the long streets running from the seashore up the hillside. Homes are kept separate from the shopping areas, and buildings are limited to three storeys. When we came into the stone pavilion park, everything within ten li [about five kilometres] followed the same pattern as the other coastal towns: this was still the seat of government, with the post office, police station, fire station, hospital, church, school and shopping centre all within it. (8)
Mexico was seized by the Spanish early in the 16th century. A hundred years before that, Puerto Vallarta was already an Aztec settlement the size of a town. The Spanish worked hard to develop it, opening a port and building up trade.
The Aztec people have a real gift for art; their handiwork rivals nature itself, with hand and heart working as one. They excel at handicrafts made of woollen yarn and fine coloured beads: flowers, birds, beasts, landscapes, folk scenes and portraits, all so lifelike and so beautiful that you cannot take them all in.
Woollen yarn is a famous local product. The fine beads are made from shell and grains of sand, a technique the Spanish brought in from the Czech lands. By the end of the 16th century these works of art were already being sold in Europe.
In the 1970s a Ming dynasty shipwreck was found off the coast here, holding ceramics including blue-and-white porcelain, evidence that Puerto Vallarta was already trading with China 500 years ago. (9)
After visiting several shops one after another that specialize in handicrafts made of thread and fine beads, we went with great interest to the fishing port wharf. We missed the lively scene of fishing boats unloading their catch after coming in before dawn, but in the afternoon the trading hall was still bustling with people and doing brisk business.
Puerto Vallarta is an important fishing town on Mexico's Pacific coast, with more kinds of fish than the eye can take in. It is especially famous for its bluefin tuna.
At five in the afternoon we headed back to the wharf's passenger service center. On the way we passed a beach where sea turtles lay their eggs. August and September are the peak breeding season, when tens of thousands of sea turtles slowly crawl ashore to lay their eggs, rather like the ROC Marine Corps making a successful beach landing.
At six we boarded the ship in turn. Departure was scheduled for eight, but we did not sail until nine-thirty. We had been waiting for a tour group of twenty who had gone to the outlying island of Islas Marias to the northwest to see its dreamlike secret spot, Hidden Beach (the "hidden beach"), and their ferry had run late.
In the darkness of night, the cruise ship slowly left port escorted by a coast guard patrol boat, and the two vessels sounded their horns to each other in farewell.
We sailed through the night across the Pacific, heading northwest back to Long Beach, California. After fifteen hours at sea, we entered the waters off the Baja California Peninsula at three in the afternoon on October 1. (10)
When teatime came, we sat down at a window table in the paid restaurant, each with a cup of Cuban coffee, and the four of us shared an order of Mexican churros.
The high stools at the bar were filled with drinkers and wine connoisseurs. We noticed a middle-aged white man with a full curly beard who looked remarkably like Ernest Hemingway, chatting and laughing with the people beside him.
Our conversation turned to Hemingway, from his novel The Sun Also Rises to his novella The Old Man and the Sea, and then to a little-known anecdote about him.
The story took place in a fishing village called Cojimar, east of Havana. Hemingway and a good friend often drank at a small bar there. This friend wanted to test Hemingway's literary talent. He challenged him to tell a story in six words within thirty seconds and said that if he could, he would pay for that round of drinks.
Hemingway thought for a moment and then said six words: Baby, Clothes, For, Sale, Never, Used. (For sale: one piece of baby clothing, never worn.) (11)
At five in the afternoon we went up on deck, where the view was much wider than from our balcony. The ship had entered the waters off the Baja California Peninsula and was passing Cabo San Lucas, and land was faintly visible. We were expected to reach the port of Long Beach at around seven in the morning on October 2.
At six in the afternoon, as the sun neared the horizon, we were delighted to see several whales about 500 meters from the ship, heading south and spouting water several meters into the air from their backs. Their appearance set off a round of excited cries.
Less than half an hour later, to our amazement, a pod of dolphins appeared, leaping along the surface in formation and making one regular arc after another. It was a stunning moment we will never forget.
Every year at this time, whales and dolphins come down from the Arctic to the warm Pacific coast of Mexico to escape the cold and give birth. This is also roughly when the sea turtles come ashore on the beaches to lay their eggs.
Over the week we had seen all sorts of passengers, of different builds, different skin colors and different upbringings. We had also met the captain, the first mate, crew members and deckhands. We chatted about life at sea with a deckhand from Indonesia, a man of about thirty with a gentle manner. We learned that most people who take jobs as deckhands on a ship do it for their families, and that no one could manage it without a good deal of patience. He told us that they get two months of leave every six months, but the pay is not much, "and rough work like ours is something Americans won't do."
After nightfall the stars twinkled like diamonds in the sky, and a half moon hung high overhead. Starlight and moonlight were reflected on the sea, the waves slapped against the hull, and the sea breeze brushed our cheeks. It was a night of "stars, moon, sea, waves, autumn, wind and night."
When the first ray of dawn appeared, it was already a little after six in the morning. Countless seagulls were following the ship, a sign that land was not far off and that we would soon be entering port.
A moving ship churns up a broad white wake behind its stern, and there are always fish to be had there. Flocks of gulls diving down to snatch them make a rare sight.
The great ship sounded its horn. The small pilot boat went ahead and the big ship followed, rather like a little dolphin slowly leading a great whale.
We had arrived at the port of Long Beach. The ship slowly came alongside, moored and dropped anchor, and the next group of passengers waited to board. Once again we saw the Indonesian deckhands as busy as could be, and we all wished one another good health and a bright future. (12, end of this chapter)
Essay 18: South Dakota
A Road Trip
In early April 2016, my wife and I flew to Denver to visit our younger son, Anderson, and spent a happy month and more together. Anderson's employer, Sun Microsystems, had held a week-long presentation of new products, and in return he got five days off. With the two days of the weekend, that made seven days, which we could put to full use.
We took a road trip across Wyoming into South Dakota. It covered two state capitals (Cheyenne, Rapid City), nine small and medium-sized towns, two world-famous sights, one state park and one great mountain range (the Black Hills, 2,194 meters high, the mountains on the border between Wyoming and South Dakota), a round trip of 1,340 kilometers. (1)
At a little after nine in the morning on May 29, we set out from home in the town of Brookfield in Denver's northern suburbs and drove north on Interstate 25. After 161 kilometers, close to noon, we reached Cheyenne, the capital of Wyoming. The whole city has a population of only 53,000. It was originally a Native American tribe on the North American continent, and today it is a city with an attractive townscape and peaceful surroundings.
The famous Wyoming State Capitol stands in the east of the city. It is a rectangular two-story building nearly 100 meters across the front and 20 meters deep. Its central section rises 25 meters and is topped by a Byzantine dome. The building is quite magnificent, and it is where the legislature meets and the governor has his offices. It was begun in 1886 and completed in 1890, and in 1987 it was listed as a national historic landmark of the United States.
Wyoming joined the Union in 1890 as the 44th state. It has an area of 253,000 square kilometers but a population of only 596,000, the smallest of any state in the country. There are more than 60,000 Native Americans in the state, 2% of the total population of 6,323,000.
Wyoming has excellent tourism resources and is a major travel destination. The state is crisscrossed with rivers, mountains, hills, plains and valleys, with skiing in winter and rafting in summer.
Jackson Hole in the west combines the beauty of mountains and lakes, much like Switzerland. American business leaders, including Bill Gates and Warren Buffett, gather there every year.
In the town of Wheatland, 122 kilometers north of Cheyenne, the motel called the Wyoming Motel is famous across the country. It is an excellent choice for travelers who want to relax and recharge, and the town has first-class restaurants.
We continued north, passing through the town of Lusk and the small town of Redbird. Two miles further north was a tiny village, Small Village, with a sign by the highway stating that its population was just one. It may be the only such place in the world.
Another 16 kilometers on was Mule Creek Junction, where two highways meet and which also serves as a rest stop for convoys of vehicles. We rested there for a while and, to our surprise and delight, saw several dromedary camels.
There we turned east. The Black Hills were close now, and after crossing over the hills we entered South Dakota. (2)
Edgemont is a small town in South Dakota with a population of only 762. It is a gateway from Wyoming into the scenic areas of southwestern South Dakota, much like some small town at the foot of the Alps where one passes from southwestern Austria into Switzerland. This is where we entered South Dakota.
We drove on northeast to Hot Springs, whose hot springs are its main tourist attraction. It is also the site of mammoth remains from the Middle Ages.
Our third stop was the town of Pringle, from which Wind Cave National Park is only 9 kilometers to the east.
Continuing north, we reached the town of Custer, an ideal base for exploring the Black Hills National Forest southwest of town. Only a 12-kilometer drive to its southeast is Custer State Park. It was established in 1912 and covers 71,000 acres, the largest park in the state.
Finally we came to Hill City, where we were staying. It has a population of only 966, just one main street and two small roads leading into the forest that cars can use, and it covers less than one square kilometer. But it enjoys an excellent location, with as many as nine sights nearby. Mount Rushmore National Memorial (the site of the presidents' heads carved in stone), to its southeast, is only a twenty-minute drive away.
Cabins (detached log cabins) for rent can be seen everywhere in the little town. In the peak tourist season they are hard to come by and must be booked in advance. Each has a bedroom, a living room, a bathroom and a kitchen, all fully equipped. The usual rent is 50 US dollars a night, rising to 80 to 100 dollars in the peak season. We chose an end unit so we could come and go easily. It was already six in the evening when we arrived. We went to the supermarket to buy groceries, cooked them back at the cabin, and enjoyed a rich and delicious dinner of a different kind. (3)
On the second day of our trip, May 30, we chose to visit the Crazy Horse Memorial (the giant rock carving of Crazy Horse), less than 15 kilometers from our cabin. It is currently the largest stone sculpture in the world, carved out of an entire mountaintop. At 563 feet high, it is far taller than the Leshan Giant Buddha in China at 237 feet, the presidents carved in stone in America at 285 feet, the Egyptian pyramids at 487 feet, and the Washington Monument at 555 feet.
Work on the Crazy Horse carving began in 1948, seven years later than Mount Rushmore National Memorial (the presidents' heads carved in stone, completed on October 31, 1941, after 14 years of work).
The Crazy Horse Memorial is still under construction today. When finished, it will be 600 feet long and 592 feet high, and the head alone measures 87 feet. Each of the four presidents' heads carved in stone is 60 feet, only one tenth of the whole Crazy Horse carving. (4)
In 1868 the white settlers signed an agreement with the Native Americans in South Dakota establishing a "Black Hills Indian Reservation," which included what are today Black Hills North and Black Hills South. But the whites broke the agreement.
Chief Crazy Horse (born in Rapid in 1843, died in the Badlands on September 6, 1877) negotiated with the whites for several years to defend his people's rights. A white man stabbed him to death in the back with a knife.
American pioneers once asked Crazy Horse, "Where is your land?" Sitting on his horse, he pointed ahead and answered, "Our land is where our children and grandchildren are buried." His answer showed the proud, bold spirit of the Native Americans. Crazy Horse was brave and skilled in battle, and wise as well. His people regard him as a national hero, and he holds an exalted place among them.
In Native American culture, neither men nor women have family names. They are named after the phenomena of life in nature, such as Soaring Eagle, Standing Bear, Butterfly in the Valley, or Sparrow in the Woods. (5)
The completion of the presidents' heads carved in stone at Mount Rushmore in 1941 gave the Native American chief Standing Bear an idea. He hoped to find a mountaintop in the Black Hills where they too could carve a stone image of Crazy Horse, their leader for all time in their hearts. It would highlight the core spirit of the Native Americans: a love of peace and a devotion to truth and practical action.
Standing Bear decided to entrust this great task to the Polish sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski (born in Boston on September 6, 1908, died in the Black Hills on October 20, 1982), who had Native American blood and had been one of the engineers who built the presidents' heads carved in stone.
After long discussions and earnest requests, Standing Bear said, "Like the other chiefs, I want the white man to know that the Native Americans have great heroes, too." This sentence moved Ziolkowski, and he decided to take on this formidable task.
In 1942 Ziolkowski set to work. He searched everywhere for a suitable site and finally chose the present location of the Crazy Horse Memorial.
Over five years starting in 1943, sometimes with his wife and children, he walked all over the mountain and surveyed every inch of the ground. He put the design together, took it apart and compared it again and again, and finally began work in 1948.
During his lifetime, Ziolkowski drew up a will and instructed his lawyer to open it after his death. In it he told his ten children that each of them was entirely free to decide whether to help their mother carry on the work. In the end, seven of them took part and three pursued other paths; of the seven who stayed, five held bachelor's or master's degrees in engineering. He also directed that the work should accept no financial aid of any kind from the government. It was to be self-reliant, handed down from one generation of his descendants to the next until it was finished.
After fifty years of tireless work, by the end of the last century the project had taken shape and the head had been completed. The federal government twice offered funding for the project, and both times the management board politely declined. Only donations from private individuals and charitable organizations are accepted, and admission fees are another source of funds. (6)
Leaving the Crazy Horse Memorial, we went on to visit the small town of Deadwood (literally "rotten wood"), about a thirty-minute drive north of our cabin.
Driving north on Highway 385, we saw a sign standing at a fork in the road that read "Pooralley" (Poor Man's Alley). We were curious that there should be a place with such a name. The few houses within sight did not look like the homes of poor people, and we smiled at the thought.
Further on, a cowboy on horseback was driving a herd of cattle across the highway. Cars on both sides stopped and waited patiently for a full five minutes while the cattle slowly made their way across, and the cowboy kept smiling and waving to us.
We came to the small town of Deadwood, which is quite famous in American history and is known as "the madness of the West." This old gambling town is full of legends about outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers. It has a population of 1,284 (2010 census) and is the county seat of Lawrence County. It was also the first town in the United States outside the Native American reservations to legalize gambling, and the casinos are the backbone of the town's economy. The casinos are modern and well equipped and draw tourists from everywhere to spend their money, so the small hotels do a roaring trade. It was also one of the filming locations of the Hollywood Oscar-winning film Dances with Wolves (與狼共舞).
On the way back, not long after passing the town of Lead, we came upon a set of fish ponds called Trout Haven. The sign showed a big trout painted on it. No licence was needed to fish there, and the species included Siscowet, Brook, Rainbow and Splake (a hybrid of brook trout and lake trout). The workshop provided rods and bait. Each of us took a rod, and within seconds every rod had a fish on the hook. Our catch came to eight pounds, which was not cheap at nearly a hundred US dollars, but we enjoyed the fishing to the full. Back at the cabin we divided the fish into two portions, and every evening we had a trout feast. (7)
For the third day of the trip, May 31, we planned a visit to Jewel Cave National Monument in the morning and to the carved heads of the four presidents, Mount Rushmore National Memorial, in the afternoon.
We set out from the cabin and took Highway 16 to the town of Custer, then drove west for about fifteen minutes to reach Jewel Cave.
In the autumn of 1900, Jewel Cave was discovered in a canyon of the Black Hills by two brothers, Frank and Albert Michaud, who had missed the gold rush. The opening was so small that no one could squeeze in, but a cool breeze blew out of the cave. Curious, they and their friend Charles Bush blasted the opening wider with dynamite. To their amazement they found narrow passages and low cave walls that, in the faint sunlight, reflected dazzling, jewel-like colors. These turned out to be crystals of various kinds of calcite.
On October 31 of that year, they obtained a mining claim from the Custer County courthouse and began digging, but they never found any other valuable minerals.
So they changed their minds: why not turn the cave into a tourist attraction? Perhaps they could make a fortune. Yet by 1908 it was still only a dream.
At that time a movement for the conservation of the natural environment was rising in America. On February 7, 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt signed an executive order making it the fourteenth national monument in the United States. In the end, the two brothers sold Jewel Cave to the government for 750 dollars.
This labyrinth, formed by underground rivers, has one chamber after another, where cone-shaped stalactites, stalagmites and thick flowstone reflect a dazzling light.
The temperature inside the cave is close to zero degrees Celsius, so we put on jackets against the cold. We took an elevator down more than a hundred meters and then walked further down along a trail whose depths seemed unfathomable. Timid visitors could not go on and turned back, but we walked all the way to the end of the trail and enjoyed a deep journey we will never forget. (8)
After more than 100 years of exploration, Jewel Cave now extends 310 kilometers. By comparison, the world's longest cave, in Mammoth Cave National Park in southwestern Kentucky, has been explored for 200 years and is 600 kilometers long, so the two are still far apart.
Then we took Highway 16 back north through the town of Custer and turned east onto Highway 244 to reach the Mount Rushmore National Memorial with its carved presidential heads.
In 1923 a South Dakota historian, Doane Robinson (born October 19, 1856, in Wisconsin; died November 27, 1946, in South Dakota), wishing to honor the founding spirit of America and commemorate its outstanding presidents, proposed to the government that presidential heads be carved on the hard granite peaks of Mount Rushmore in his home state.
Through Doane Robinson's persistent efforts, the famous Danish-American sculptor Gutzon Borglum (born March 25, 1867, in Idaho; died March 6, 1941, in Chicago) was invited to serve as chief engineer of the project.
In March 1925 the United States Congress approved their proposal, and after more than two years of surveying and measurement, construction began in June 1927.
The 30th President of the United States at the time, Calvin Coolidge (in office 1923–1929, born 1872, died 1933, Republican), insisted that apart from President Washington, who could not be left out, the other three had to be two Republicans and one Democrat.
From left to right, the four carved presidential heads are:
Washington (George Washington, in office 1789–1797, born 1732, died 1799, from Virginia, 1st President, Federalist).
Thomas Jefferson (in office 1801–1809, born 1743, died 1826, from Virginia, 3rd President, Democratic-Republican).
Roosevelt (the elder) (Theodore Roosevelt, in office 1901–1909, born 1858, died 1919, from New York State, 26th President, Republican).
Lincoln (Abraham Lincoln, in office 1861–1865, born 1809, died 1865, from Kentucky, 16th President, Republican). (9)
Mount Rushmore National Memorial is also called "America's Presidents' Mountain." The carved heads face a stone-paved avenue 200 meters long, lined on both sides by towering white pines and spruces, which together with the green mountains, blue sky and white clouds form a natural, unworldly scene of great beauty.
The flags of the 50 states and of the territories (Puerto Rico, Saipan, Guam, American Samoa and the US Virgin Islands) hang along both sides of the avenue, fluttering in the wind. On the granite walls are carved the year each state joined the Union and a brief history of each.
In the history hall on the right side of the main hall are displayed historical artifacts from the founding of the nation onward and accounts of the lives of every president. There is also a film theater, and every showing was full.
In the same hall there is a shop selling all kinds of books and souvenirs about American culture, customs, history, geography, travel, technological development and national strength.
At the foot of the carved mountain stands a music amphitheater with seating for two thousand. Fireworks are set off here every Independence Day and on other commemorative holidays, and concerts are held regularly.
From the viewing terrace we gazed up at the four carved presidential heads on the mountaintop and thought of the American forebears who, over nearly 250 years, led the whole American people along the long road of founding a nation in hardship and preserving it with no less difficulty, and brought it into the ranks of the world's foremost powers. It is truly worthy of admiration. (10)
On the fourth day of the trip, June 1, we got up very early. At six in the morning we took Highway 16 through the town of Custer and drove east for twenty minutes to reach Custer State Park. Once inside, we followed the Wildlife Loop Road from west to north, then east, then south, going clockwise and returning to our starting point.
Custer State Park was established in 1912 and covers 71,000 acres (284 square kilometers), slightly larger than Taipei City's 271 square kilometers. It is divided into a stone-forest scenic area, a wildlife area and a forest recreation area.
Visitors can walk, cycle, ride horses or drive through this magnificent natural landscape.
The road winds through pine-covered forests and passes through narrow tunnels with views of the surrounding mountains. The wild animals come close to visitors without any fear, and one can feel the harmony between people, animals and nature. May through September is the best season to visit, and we had come at just the right time.
Before the first light of dawn, avoiding the noise of the crowds, we came to Sylvan Lake deep in the mountains and enjoyed the tranquil beauty of a lake among the mountains and mountains mirrored in the lake, where "early orioles vie for the trees to sing, playful butterflies dance on and on, a lone wild goose a thousand miles from home casts its shadow, and the blue clouds envy the flying birds" (早鶯爭樹鳴，戲蝶時時舞，吊影千里雁，青雲羨鳥飛).
Two years later, in June, I wrote a seven-character regulated poem in Los Angeles, "Chasing Dreams of Mountain and Lake" (逐夢山湖), recalling this unforgettable experience.
Along the winding mountain path we drive through mist,
The mountains rise amid the hazy, colored clouds.
Mountain and cloud drift on, ethereal and endless,
Lofty ridges embrace the lake, the lake embraces the hills.
Chasing dreams, may lake and mountain always remain,
The lake veils hill and water in Nüluo's gown.
Such a scene should belong in heaven alone,
In Immensee I recall the years gone by.
Note appended to the poem: Two years ago, at the beginning of summer, I visited Sylvan Lake in the South Dakota state park with my wife and son. Before sunrise, clouds and mist swirled about, and I felt as if I had been carried from the human world into heaven. Nüluo's gown: the goddess in Qu Yuan's Nine Songs (九歌), clad in climbing fig and girdled with nüluo vines, ethereal and wondrous, both beautiful and devoted in love, who often appears in the mountain forests and over the waters of lakes.
Immensee: the novella Immensee by the German writer Theodor Storm, completed in 1852, which I read in my green youth. The whole story is set beside a lake in the mountains, and in flashback it recalls the love of a young couple. Its writing is fresh and poignantly beautiful, and its feelings are sincere and moving. (11)
Sylvan Lake connects the park's three scenic routes: the Needles Highway, the Wildlife Loop Road and the Iron Mountain Road.
From the Wildlife Loop Road we drove onto the Needles Highway and entered a mountain region of the oldest rocks in North America, more than two billion years old. Tower-like rock formations stretch on without end, and one tunnel follows another. From the tunnels on the Iron Mountain Road one can clearly see the carved heads on the Presidents' Mountain. One narrow granite peak, formed by nature and soaring into the clouds, looks much like the eye of a needle (Needles Eye).
From any angle in these mountains you can take a picture, with the scattered mountain cabins, grasslands and pastures all in view. Under pale clouds, high skies and a blue sky washed clean, this dazzling, endlessly tender, otherworldly Shangri-La of serene and quiet beauty is intoxicating. (12)
Forest covers about a third of Custer State Park, spread along both sides of Highways 87 and 753. Two miles to the west of the park lies the Black Hills National Forest, rich in woods, mountains, lakes, streams and grasslands. Campers go in groups along the forest trails, on foot, on horseback or on donkeys, each with its own charm, looking at green pines and wildflowers all over the hills and listening to a hundred birds singing. Sika deer and badgers in the distance, and elk and wild hares close by, can be seen at any time. Deeper in the mountains there are black bears, cougars and coyotes (South Dakota is also nicknamed the Coyote State).
Among the flowers are the precious pasque flower (the state flower), the leafy aster, the Indian paintbrush (a red flowering shrub) and the columbine (five petals, purple outside and white inside, with yellow stamens).
In the forest there are also rare birds; less often seen are the Chinese ring-necked pheasant (the state bird), palm-leaf bulbuls, bluebirds, bald eagles and wrens (also called "clever housewife," a small bird).
The motto of South Dakota is "Under God, the people rule." (13)
The Peter Norbeck Visitor Center in the northeast of Custer State Park is surrounded by forested mountains on three sides and grassland on the fourth. The scenery is lovely, the trees are lush, flowers are fragrant and birds sing. It is a resort complete with rivers, waterfalls, springs, lawns, pastures and a lodge.
The visitor center was built in 1925. Its founder, Peter Norbeck (born August 27, 1870, in Clay County, South Dakota; died December 20, 1936, in Redfield, South Dakota), served as a United States senator from South Dakota and is honored as "the father of Custer State Park." The visitor center offers tourists a relaxing and comfortable holiday setting.
South of the visitor center is a horse ranch that is also a breeding center, with most horses used for herding cattle, carrying loads and racing. One breed, the Appaloosa, is gentle, spirited and intelligent, with both stamina and speed. It has a white body with black spots, is a source of mare's milk, and costs around three thousand US dollars each.
Another breed, the Quarter Horse, is used for racing. Each can sell for 100,000 US dollars, and a racing champion is worth more than a million.
Foals of every breed can stand as soon as they are born, and they are adorable. The ranch also raises some small donkeys, used for carrying loads in the mountains and for giving tourists rides to see the scenery. (14)
We went on to the great grassland of the wildlife preserve to watch the animals. Its streams, small lakes, low hills, woods and green grass provide an ideal habitat.
This is the largest breeding center for the North American bison (buffalo). In 1914, in the park's early years, there were fewer than a hundred head; they have since multiplied to more than 1,300. After long contact with people, bison, elk, sika deer, pronghorn, coyotes and prairie dogs roam freely here.
Visitors can drive, ride or walk the roads and trails in the park, each enjoying it in their own way, and all can get close to these animals.
We were captivated by the colonies of small rodents commonly called "little dogs of the prairie." They are sandy yellow, look very much like squirrels and have little tails like a puppy's; their proper name is the prairie dog. In groups of three or five they search for food and sun themselves on the grassland, and they are especially adorable when they stand upright with their two little paws held up in front.
By rare good fortune, we watched a herd of at least two hundred bison migrating to new grassland. A sturdy bison walking in front must have been the leader, with the calves in the middle. The formation was orderly, much like troops on the march.
A few calves came up to the roadside but had fallen behind the herd. We stopped the car to wait for them to cross and waved to show the calves they could go first. To our surprise, the lead calf kept shaking its head and would not move, as if it meant to let us go first instead. The scene astonished us and moved us even more.
Every year when autumn comes, the woods on the hilltops turn half yellow and half red and color the whole valley, and it is also the peak tourist season. On the last Friday of September comes the annual Buffalo Roundup. As the drums begin, the whole land rumbles, and more than a thousand buffalo thunder past, driven by cowboys into the corrals. The grand spectacle draws tens of thousands of visitors, who come to enjoy what makes this place special and to experience authentic cowboy culture.
In the afterglow of the setting sun, we left the great prairie and headed for the small town of Custer. (15)
Custer, a small town deep in the mountains, has a population of only 2,067 (2010 census) and grows at an average rate of 1.72% a year. It sits where three highways meet and has been named one of the ten best small tourist towns in the United States. It is conveniently located, with nearly 20 attractions nearby, the farthest only an hour's drive away.
The town has 34 inns and 10 top-class hotels, and bars, restaurants and coffee shops are everywhere.
We chose a coffee shop away from the noise of the bars and restaurants for dinner, with many American dishes and coffees to choose from. The interior was elegantly decorated, and outside there was a flowing fountain and the scent of flowers. Although every seat was taken, people spoke softly, and we could hear nightingales singing in the woods.
On the way back to our cabin, something heartwarming happened: a police car followed us with its siren sounding. When we pulled over, the officer said, "Sir, you were speeding." Anderson was puzzled, and the officer added, "This is downtown. The speed limit is 30 miles an hour."
Anderson had forgotten for a moment that this was not Denver. The officer looked at his driver's license and license plate and said with a broad smile, "You're from the big city, so no ticket. You and your family are welcome to come visit our little town again, but do watch the road signs."
We went to bed very late that night. In the four days since we had moved into the cabin, it was the first time we felt the beauty of the stillness here. We could hear owls calling in the woods. A mountain eagle stood on a tree trunk in the moonlight, dozing, and the sound of the mountain waterfall did not wake it from its sleep.
It was already the fifth day, June 2. Toward noon we drove back to Denver the way we had come, enjoying the scenery along the road once more. Our pleasant self-drive trip through South Dakota left us with beautiful memories. (16, end of this chapter)
Essay 19: Snow Like Goose Feathers
in April
Denver, Colorado, lies in the center of the American Midwest. At 40 degrees north latitude, it is on the same latitude as Beijing, China, slightly north of Washington, the US capital, and it stands one mile (1,609 meters) above sea level. Its four seasons are distinct, and the Rocky Mountains stretch for thousands of kilometers across the state, with lovely and magnificent scenery. Several of its ski resorts are world-famous, and it is a fine place for seeking out secluded beauty.
My younger son Anderson works in the small town of Brookfield (Broom Field) in Denver's northern suburbs. It is home to the headquarters of Sun Microsystems and was once a great prairie where broom grew.
Broom (Scotch broom) belongs to the legume family and can be used as medicine. Chinese folk call it "broom flower" or "broom grass." It was once a common material for brooms in the Scottish countryside and is also a source of dye. Its flowers have many petals and are yellow, though there are also white and red ones.
Anderson lives in a small two-story condo halfway up a hillside, part of the company's staff housing. Red-tiled houses are built one after another along the slope. At the foot of the hill are two golf courses, and little bridges, flowing streams, woods and ponds all lie within view. Being there feels like leaving the dusty world behind.
In early April 2005, my wife and I arrived here for a short stay, to be with our son and enjoy family life together. On Sunday we went into the little town and noticed the smell of cow dung. There were no ranches nearby, and we were puzzled.
Anderson explained that although Qingming had already passed, cold waves from Alaska come down into the continental United States at this time of year and do not stop until the end of April. When a Pacific front blows cold, moisture-laden wind eastward, it runs straight into the towering Rocky Mountains, and the great mountains gather plenty of moisture. Once the temperature drops, the smell of cow dung from the ranches west of Denver drifts in on the wind, and whenever this smell appears, it means there may be snow the next day. (1)
Early the next morning, sure enough, the first auspicious snow of April fell here. At first it came on and off, then it fell thick and soft like cotton fluff. A few pigeons kept flying in and out of their nests under the eaves. On the slope nearby we could clearly see a flock of quail and several wild rabbits running about, as if trying to find enough food before the heavy snow.
After breakfast our son went to work. My wife and I put on flat caps and waterproof jackets and followed the mountain trail down to the little emerald lake below. We saw six swans, four white and two black, drifting on the lake, carefree and unafraid of the cold wind. A dozen or so ducks squatted by the pond under the newly leafed willows, stretching their necks to gaze up at the sky. Facing such a scene, we felt untouched by the world's dust and free of all its bonds.
The two of us lingered on the little path by the lake, letting the snowflakes strike our faces, unwilling to wipe them away. When we grew tired, we rested under a stone pavilion and took in the beautiful scenery all around. In the misty sky, a lone wild goose flew past.
Toward noon the snow grew heavier. The pines and cypresses along the path were covered in silver blossoms, the land was a sheet of white, and the trail home was nearly buried in falling snow.
We walked quickly on our way home, looking for the mail kiosk built of earth-yellow stone slabs. It was easy to spot, and it was where we collected our mail every day.
With a landmark in sight, we had no worry about finding our way home. Facing the mountain wind and blowing snow, we found ourselves in high spirits and began singing "Climbing the Mountain" (上山), with music by Chao Yuen Ren and words by Hu Shih: "Keep trying, keep trying, keep trying to climb. I don't look back, I don't wipe my sweat, I keep trying to climb."
There, we had finally climbed the hill, and we were nearly home. Looking back at the way we had come, we could not find a single cloud in the sky, but our footprints were pressed deep into the drifts of snow. (2, end of this chapter)
Essay 20: The Garden Bestowed
by the Lord
If you laid maps of China and the United States of the same scale on top of each other, Colorado would fall roughly where Gansu Province is. Dunhuang, Jiuquan and Colorado's capital, Denver, all lie at about 40 degrees north latitude.
Colorado is famous around the world for its magnificent mountains. In the west stretch the Rocky Mountains, and the source of the Colorado River lies among them. Its varied terrain includes high mountains, great rivers, plateaus, lakes, long valleys and basins, as well as boundless grasslands. Its four seasons are distinct, highways spread like a spider's web, and high-altitude railways wind among the mountains. The airports of Denver and Colorado Springs (Springs) are built in a fresh, bright modern style. The state's scenic and historic sites keep their original character under modern management.
On a weekend morning in early May 2005, my younger son Anderson drove us from Denver south on Interstate 25. About an hour and a half later, after passing the US Air Force Academy and Colorado Springs, we took Exit 146, and in ten minutes we reached the visitor center of the Garden of the Gods (Garden The Gods).
Looking west from the observation deck at the visitor center, we saw three strangely shaped, earth-red mountains formed of volcanic rock. One of them looks just like two camels kissing and is named Kissing Camels. We marveled at the wonders of the Creator, who had sculpted such a stunning fairyland for the human world. (1)
Behind and to the right of the Kissing Camels is a strange mountain called the "Tower of Demons" (Tower of Babel), shaped like a pointed tower. Legend says a king built a tower that reached all the way to heaven, holding all the different peoples of the earth under his rule, his power greater than God's, and in the end it was destroyed by the Master of the universe.
After its destruction, the tower split into 19 rock mountains. The "Rock of Harmony" (Balanced Rock) looks just like a guardian deity, steadily and attentively watching over the garden. The Siamese Twins look exactly like two conjoined twin brothers. The twin-peaked Sentinel Rock resembles two guards standing watch.
There are also the Giant's Footprints, Pulpit Rock, Keyhole Rock, the Sleeping Giant, the Three Fairies Rock, the Toad Puffing Rock and others, each with its own unique shape.
The bicycle paths in the park follow the road that circles the mountains, and the walking trails weave among the peaks, lined with Rocky Mountain flowers of every color. The signposts clearly show the way, so there is no chance of getting lost.
The seven tiers of the waterfall at Waterfall Mountain are linked one after another, falling as if from the sky. You can take an elevator halfway up the mountain or climb 184 stone steps to enjoy the falls. The American restaurant at the foot of the mountain is also a fine place to watch them.
We each enjoyed a cup of coffee in the restaurant and gazed out, feeling as in the lines "The sun shines on Incense Burner Peak, raising a purple haze; from afar I see the waterfall hanging over the river ahead. Its flying torrent plunges straight down three thousand feet, as if the Milky Way were falling from the ninth heaven" (日照香爐生紫煙，遙看瀑布掛前川。飛流直下三千尺，疑是銀河落九天), that sense of meeting the far-stretching purple haze and beholding the beauty of Lushan.
The weather in the mountains changes endlessly. One moment the sun shone everywhere, the next dark clouds covered the sky, and soon a fine misty rain began to fall, followed by thunder and lightning and a downpour, after which the bright sun blazed again. At one moment strong winds and driving rain, at another a gentle breeze and the shadows of mountain mist. Among the sheer rock walls a thousand feet high, the green streams and red mountains, and the echoes in the valley, we suddenly felt a spiritual presence sweep over us.
We looked at the Rocky Mountains stretching ridge after ridge in the distance, their peaks covered in snow and the slopes below their ridges a sheet of green. Over the red stone forest nearby drifted colored clouds, and a flock of wild geese was flying north. As dusk fell, we set off on the road home.
Looking back, we saw to our surprise that on the flagpoles at the entrance to the visitor center, among the six flags, flew the Blue Sky, White Sun and Wholly Red Earth national flag. In the slanting light of dusk, it looked especially strong and vigorous. (2, end of this chapter)
Essay 21: Travels in the Mountains
of Colorado
In April 2006, I was staying in Denver, Colorado, in the Rocky Mountains, and every weekend and holiday we went out traveling. One weekend morning in early May, my younger son Anderson drove us straight to Rocky Mountain National Park.
Rocky Mountain National Park lies along the Rocky Mountains, which run the length of the North American continent. It is lofty and magnificent, with ever-changing views, and covers 1,063 square kilometers, 3.92 times the size of Taipei (271 square kilometers).
From downtown Denver we followed US Route 36 northwest for 72 miles (115 kilometers). After an hour and a half of driving, we reached Estes Park, within the area of Rocky Mountain National Park, passing through Louisville and Boulder on the way.
Louisville has been ranked among the ten best small towns to live in in the United States. It belongs to Boulder County, was founded on June 3, 1882, covers 20.703 square kilometers, and has a population of 18,376 (2010 census).
Boulder, also called the "Round Rock City," is the seat of Boulder County. Founded in 1876, it covers 65.7 square kilometers, has a population of 97,385 (2010 census), and is the 11th largest city in the state. Its scenery is lovely, and it is quiet and peaceful. The University of Colorado Boulder in the city has great freedom of academic thought and is more open than the other famous universities.
After we drove past the town of Louisville, a boundless prairie opened before our eyes. In early May the land was covered in fresh green, and cattle and sheep could be seen.
With our eyes on the vast prairie and the long mountain ranges in the distance, we passed through a grazing area with a few farmhouses scattered across it, and we could just make out the stone paths in front of them. The ranches kept horses, cattle and sheep, and also llamas from the foothills of the Andes in South America. Foals and calves nestled beside their mothers, nursing and nibbling grass, while cowboys on horseback in wide-brimmed hats moved among them. A picture of the pastures of the American West lay right before us, and being there in person was so real that it lifted our spirits. (1)
After leaving Boulder, we gradually entered the mountains, and the car moved slowly along the winding mountain road. The temperature dropped little by little. A moment earlier the sun had been blazing, but now it seemed shy, peeking out and hiding again. The air grew damp and fog rose; we were already deep in the valley.
On both sides of the valley were green mountains. Ferns just putting out tender leaves and a small purple Rocky Mountain flower poked out from cracks in the rocks, fluttering in the strong wind. Temperate evergreen trees, nanmu and hazel, grew thickly on the hilltops. On the left of the highway, down a slope of about 30 degrees some 50 meters deep, a small river ran parallel to the road. Along the river, flowering trees of red, yellow and white swayed in the wind. The wild azaleas by the river vied with each other in a riot of purples and reds, and the stones in the river, large and small, could be seen clearly.
The car gradually climbed higher. A thin mist drifted in on the wind, and a few small raindrops struck the windows. Looking up, I saw a wisp of white cloud sail past and vanish in an instant. It truly felt like the lines "A sudden coolness: from what rain, and where? A passing cloud that leaves not even a shadow" (「忽有微涼何處雨，更無留影霎時雲」).
Out of the valley, we gradually approached Rocky Mountain National Park. To its southwest lies Roosevelt National Forest, and in both places ancient pines and cypresses of the cold-climate coniferous forest rise straight into the clouds.
Roosevelt National Forest is a habitat for rare wildlife: bighorn sheep, brown bears, elk, wild boar, bald eagles, wild turkeys and jaguars often appear there. It is also home to more than 30 species of rare North American birds. Hunters need a licence to enter the area, and killing protected animals is strictly forbidden.
The car wound through range after range of linked peaks. As we drove on, it seemed there was no road ahead, for the mountain road climbed straight into the sky. In fact we had driven onto a mountaintop. Colored clouds floated right before our eyes, especially brilliant in the sunlight, like a magical fairyland.
As we came down the mountain, a stretch of grassland suddenly appeared, with a farmstead on it, another scene altogether. A branch road left the highway and ran to a dozen or so farmhouses beside the woods along the river. Behind the farmhouses, at the foot of the mountain, stood a small church, joined to them by a wooden bridge across the river. A dozen dairy cows and several horses were penned beside the church. A mail truck stopped by the road, and the mailman put letters into each mailbox one by one. This was a typical scene of the rural American West: a small bridge over flowing water, fragrant grass and wildflowers, clumps of trees, cattle and sheep, farmhouses and a church. Together they made a place at peace with the world, like a paradise apart from it. (2)
After leaving this valley farmstead of less than one square kilometer, the car climbed again. In about 10 minutes we reached a flat clearing on the summit. On the right was a steep rock face about 200 meters high, with a waterfall dropping straight down into a small river. Looking down into the basin below, we could see the whole small town of Estes Park (Estes City).
Coming down, we followed Lake Estes into the town. Pines and cypresses grew thickly along the lakeshore. The distant mountains, the nearby hills and the green lake rose in clear tiers from south to north. On the slopes close by stood little houses, each on its own, with red tile roofs and white walls. Anglers by the lake stood or sat in the shade of the trees, watching for their floats to bob. On the walking paths and bike paths around the lake, people strolled while cyclists wove past.
The town and the lake both lie within Estes Park. Two small rivers flow out of Lake Estes, and the town is built along them, at once modern and traditional. Its two main streets are lined with shops, all in two-story buildings. The town has a golf course, a five-star hotel and countless small inns. The residents are hospitable and courteous, warm and friendly, plain and unpretentious.
On the riverbank there are small cabins for rent: elegantly furnished suites where visitors can do their own cooking. Maple trees are planted along the river for several hundred meters, and their red autumn colors are enchanting. A wooden bridge spans the two banks, and at its end a red waterwheel turns without stopping. Strolling there is like stepping into a painting of paradise. (3)
The town's shops, supermarkets, restaurants and bars stay open until midnight. Tourists and backpackers come and go, neon lights flicker, and the later the night, the lovelier it grows. Estes Park, founded on April 17, 1917, is close by, and there you can see campers singing and dancing around bonfires, enjoying the pleasures of the mountains and forests to the full.
The art and craft shops are places that make people stop, and there are nearly ten of them on the main street. The Native American wood and stone carvings show animals, flowers or mountain scenery, finely worked and remarkably lifelike. The many-colored minerals of the Rocky Mountains are crystal clear, and the necklaces and jewelry made from them are good and inexpensive, so business is booming.
The small restaurants have real character, and there you can enjoy Rocky Mountain game dishes: mountain goat, spotted deer, wild boar, wild rabbit and wild ox. Among them, the wild ox whose scientific name is Buffalo has tender, delicate meat, and a steak of it with red wine or beer is truly one of the world's delights.
Northeast of the town, at an elevation of 2,250 meters, stands a Victorian-style five-star hotel, The Stanley Hotel, which opened in 1909. It has a red roof and white walls, three stories above ground and one below, and is furnished in classic style entirely with wooden furniture. Behind it stretch rolling mountains; in front it faces grassland and a small lake, with a murmuring stream. The American president Theodore Roosevelt stayed there many times, and Hollywood has used the hotel several times as a setting for films.
We stayed one night in this mountain town of Rocky Mountain National Park, with its lovely hills and waters. Early the next morning we watched the sun rise. Clouds drifted over the peaks, wild geese flew across the sky, and the lights were still on in the distant cabins. Early-rising anglers walked toward the lake, early exercisers appeared on the bike paths and walking paths, and hikers were getting ready to set off into the national park to take in all the splendor of its mountains and forests. The little town kept our footprints, and we kept beautiful, unforgettable memories, as we drove onto the road home. (4, end of this chapter)
Essay 22: Panama
Darién Province, Home of the Indigenous Peoples
In May 1998, my wife and I received our American green cards and resigned from our jobs, and at the end of October we went to Houston to join Anthony and Anderson.
One weekend in late August, we arranged with my old friend Brother Huang Yiming (黃益明) and an indigenous man nicknamed Tortolo (turtle dove) to make a trip of two days and two nights to Darién Province.
In 1992 Brother Yiming had introduced us to Tortolo, and in January that year we had all gone together to visit Tortolo's home in the hills above Canita, a small town on the shore of Lago Bayano in the southeast of Panama Province.
Meeting our old friend again this time and asking him to be our guide to his home province of Darién was a great pleasure. Surprisingly, Brother Yiming, a Chinese born and raised in Panama, had never been to Darién in more than 60 years. (1)
At around 10 a.m. on Saturday, August 22, 1998, we met at El Dorado Centro Comercial (El Dorado Shopping Center). Tortolo drove an SUV, and our trip to Darién Province began.
The shape of Panama closely resembles a big lobster crawling westward, and Darién Province is its tail.
Darién Province borders the Comarca Kuna Yala special district (formerly San Blas) to the northeast, faces the Pacific Ocean to the northwest and southwest, and has the Republic of Colombia to the southeast and south. Its area is 11,091 square kilometers, 15% of the Republic of Panama (75,517 square kilometers), and it is the largest province. Its capital, La Paima, faces the Gulf of Panama (Bahía de Panamá) and is also one of Panama's commercial ports.
Darién Province has a population of 203,000, 5% of the national population (4.07 million, 2018). The province has three indigenous areas, belonging to the Kuna people, with a population of about 109,000, 45% of all the indigenous people in the country.
Our first stop was the town of Chepo in Panama Province, 60 kilometers away on a concrete road, the best stretch of the Pan-American Highway within Panama.
Chepo is the center of Panama's rice production and trade. The rice is of excellent quality and pleasantly chewy, better than Thai rice, and it grows at the same latitude as Thailand's rice-growing regions. (2)
The Republic of Panama is an isthmus nation, with land on two sides and ocean on two sides. The word Panama comes from an indigenous language and means a place rich in fish, flowers, butterflies and forests, and Darién Province truly represents the word. Besides these, it has great rivers, rocky coasts, beaches, swamps, lowlands, mangroves, high mountains and tropical rainforest.
Darién's tropical rainforest nurtures exotic wild plants, and its mountain jungles hold great numbers of precious wild animals, reptiles and rare birds, almost untouched by any outside disturbance.
Darién also produces bananas, sugarcane and cocoa beans, its main agricultural exports. Its mineral resources are rich: gold, silver, copper, iron, mercury and oil. Its copper reserves exceed 200 million tons, fourth in the world, and most of them have not yet been mined.
The second stop on this trip was the small town of Canita, 28 kilometers from Chepo on what was by now a gravel road. This was our third time there. On our second visit, in August 1996, my wife and I had been the guides ourselves. We brought Deng Yixiong (鄧毅雄), who had succeeded my wife's elder brother Wu Guangding (吳光定) as overseas Chinese affairs secretary, there for some sightseeing, and introduced him to a Chinese couple named Zheng who ran a general store.
Chepo and Canita are places the Pan-American Highway must pass through on the way to Darién Province, and on this trip we followed the Pan-American Highway.
The Pan-American Highway begins in Fairbanks, the second-largest city in Alaska. It passes through Canada into the United States, on through Mexico to Central America, and through Darién Province in Panama it extends into South America, as far as Tierra del Fuego (near Cape Horn) in Argentina. It is 26,000 kilometers long, links 17 countries, and could circle the equator once. (3)
We reached Canita at about three in the afternoon. Tortolo took us to rest at a small inn run by a good friend of his nicknamed Lobo (wolf), whom we had met once in 1992. He left the car at the inn and rode a sturdy horse up the mountain to visit his family at home, and came back early the next morning so that we could all continue the journey.
The inn stands beside the highway, with its own restaurant, near the general store run by the Zhengs. It is a quiet spot in the middle of the bustle. To the east runs a big river, which rises in the mountains of central Panama Province and flows into the Gulf of Panama, facing Isla Chepillo, an island famous for its lobsters. The lobsters are carried by the indigenous people in dugout canoes to be sold in the tribal settlements, villages and towns along the river.
A dugout canoe is made by hand from a single whole tree trunk. It is simple to build, does not easily take on water, and is easy to handle. Most are made of rosewood, and depending on the size of the trunk, they are built as small one-person or two-person boats, mainly for carrying goods.
We invited the Zhengs to the inn to catch up over dinner. The restaurant is famous far and wide for its mountain delicacies and game, and especially popular is deep-fried iguana, boned and gutted, crisp outside and tender inside, regarded as a supreme delicacy. The Zhengs brought a crocodile meat soup simmered with Chinese medicinal herbs. Its flavor was sweeter than chicken broth, and the meat was so tender it melted in the mouth, better even than chicken. We talked until nearly midnight and still felt we had not had enough. (4)
Before six the next morning Tortolo arrived at the inn. After breakfast together we continued to the end of the Pan-American Highway within Panama, the town of Yaviza in Darién Province, 196 kilometers in all. The way passed through long stretches of mountains, valleys and rivers, and indigenous villages and tribal settlements.
Less than 5 kilometers after leaving the inn, we came to Lago Bayano. The lake has two parts, north and south. The southern lake looks like a goldfish swimming in the water, and the northern lake is shaped like a great dragon flying through the sky. A channel only 3 kilometers long connects the two, and an iron bridge crosses it. A nearby reservoir supplies irrigation water to the surrounding farmland. The southern lake has countless small islands and is described as the lake of a hundred islands. In the southwest of the lake there is an upland that covers one eighth of the whole lake. The whole lake is beautiful, with all the spirit of mountains and water.
The land around the great lake rises in clear tiers. The lake is ringed by hills, and beyond them come mountains, low nearby and high in the distance, where you can see rapids, flowing springs and waterfalls.
Dugout canoes are the means of travel between the mountain area and the lake area, and the mountain trails can be traveled on horseback.
The fish and shrimp farms on the lakeshore are also tourist sights, and their farming techniques came from the ROC fisheries technical mission. (5)
After crossing the Bayano iron bridge, we gradually entered the mountains and reached Agua Fría ("Cold Water"), a small town on the provincial border. We took a narrow road wide enough for only one car to an indigenous settlement, where Tortolo took us to see how the handmade mola and the Panama hat (sombrero) are made.
In a workshop of about 50 Taiwanese ping, a dozen or so middle-aged women were at work. The head of the workshop was an indigenous woman over fifty, already a grandmother, nicknamed Violeta (violet). She had been Tortolo's classmate in primary school, and when they saw each other they hugged with delight and said at the same moment, "No te vi hace mucho tiempo" (It's been a long time since I saw you). Tortolo introduced us to her, and she received us warmly. She even brought out a native fruit drink she had made herself for us to share; it was sweet, soothing to the throat, and its fragrance lingered. We listened as she explained the making process in detail.
The Panamanian mola is a hand embroidery of flowers, birds, fish and crabs, created by layering cloth, with zigzag patterns and lines of even width. In the language of the Kuna (Cuna), the word mola means clothing or shirt.
The Panama hat is a straw hat woven by hand from the fibers of the toquila plant, and it has stayed popular all over the world for a long time. (6)
Leaving Agua Fría, we entered Darién Province and followed the Río Sabana south to the town of Meteti, 50 kilometers in all. From there it was still 51 kilometers to the end of our trip, the town of Yaviza.
As soon as we left Agua Fría we saw wide grasslands, with cattle and sheep roaming at ease. Past Santa Fe the scenery changed again, as we gradually entered mountains and forests. The mountain area is a landscape of gorges, and from the town of Uana in the northeast to Yaviza there are more than 20 rivers, large and small.
Near Santa Fe we came to a valley with a narrow track that a car could just get along. Tortolo, an old hand who knew every road, took us to see a butterfly valley.
A butterfly valley is a place where great numbers of butterflies gather, live and breed. The river valleys of Darién Province make a good environment for butterflies to survive. The valleys here are very wide, and flowers, grasses and mixed trees grow thickly, giving the caterpillars plenty of plants to feed on. Panama's butterflies spend their whole lives in these rich surroundings, generation after generation.
There are butterfly valleys all over Darién Province. Teachers and students from Texas A&M University in the United States come here almost every year to study the ecology of the rainforest's plants and animals, and the valley we visited was one of them. In the egg-laying season, tens of thousands of butterflies fill the whole valley. It is a wonderful sight. (7)
After leaving Santa Fe the land rose steadily. We drove through a mountain forest where the shade blotted out the sky and wild flowers covered the mountain paths. We passed an orchid-growing centre run by the local tribe. The orchids had been gathered from the deep old forests nearby, and there were many rare and valuable kinds among them: several sword orchids and dendrobiums, and even the rare monkey-face orchid and slipper orchid.
We were very lucky to see the dove orchid (Espíritu Santo), which we had never seen before. Panamanians call it the "Flower of the Holy Spirit." Before it opens it looks like a monk at prayer, and once it blooms it looks like a white dove in flight. It is also Panama's national flower.
In the flower beds of the centre we saw countless hummingbirds coming to feed, which is a rare sight. Being able to watch them dance gracefully as they flew was an unexpected reward.
The hummingbird is the smallest bird in the world, and there are more than five hundred kinds. From the beak to the tip of the tail it measures only 6 centimetres. Without the head, neck and tail, the body is only 2 centimetres long, and the beak makes up half of its whole length. Its feathers are dazzling, in red, yellow, blue, green, purple and black, and they gleam like metal or jewels. The males are even prettier than the females.
Hummingbirds have long, pointed wings. They can fly forwards and backwards, and can even hover motionless in the air. The wingtips can beat 50 times a second, making a humming sound. They live on nectar, which they draw from beneath the stamens by pushing their beaks into the flowers.
What we rarely get to see is the one we saw here: a pearl hummingbird, with a black head, white neck and an all-red body, dancing gracefully in the air like a phoenix. (8)
We left the orchid centre and drove on south. Southwest of the Pan-American Highway at the town of Meteti we turned onto a farm road. After less than ten minutes' drive we came to a parrot-rearing farm. Its owners were a middle-aged couple who had been Tortolo's junior schoolmates at primary school. The husband was called Tallado (Eagle) and the wife Valonia (Goddess Guarding the River Valley).
The rearing farm sat beside their house. In a small grove of trees they had built an open-air enclosure of about 100 square metres. The trees and bushes inside had been kept. A low wall about 50 centimetres high was built of stone slabs, wire netting rose 20 metres from it to the roof, and the roof was covered with fishing net, giving the parrots a comfortable, natural home.
The parrots were caught in the deep mountains about 10 kilometres east of the town, and eggs were also collected there and hatched. Parrots have striking features and are easy to recognise. Most have bright feathers, a large hooked beak that curves downwards, a big head, a short neck and a thick, fleshy tongue. Each foot has four toes, two pointing forwards and two back, which they use to climb trees and grasp food. The most common kind is the yellow-headed parrot, which breeds very readily and comes in large and small sizes. The little yellow parrots are very endearing and can be kept in a cage.
Parrots can imitate human speech, but not all of them can. There is a kind of macaw that is large and bright red from head to tail, with yellow from the eyes to the beak. It is very precious. It can be kept at home, but it should not be shut up in a cage, and it learns to speak very much like a person.
The couple also had two acres of hillside where they grew cocoa beans. Raising parrots was really their side business.
In October 1994, Tallado and his wife went into the high mountains with a group of hiking friends to watch birds, and were amazed to come upon a harpy eagle (Harpia harpyja), Panama's national bird. It is about one metre long, and its spread wings can reach two metres. The great eagle with outstretched wings on Panama's national coat of arms is this bird. (9)
We said goodbye to Tallado and his wife and carried on south. Halfway to Yaviza we reached Canglón. This is the timber trading centre of Darién Province. Through its wide forests several large rivers flow southwest from the San Blas mountains and join the great Río Tuira, which reaches the sea by way of the provincial capital, La Palma. It is a convenient route for shipping timber.
The national forest reserve west of Yaviza (Reserva Forestall Canglon) covers 256 square kilometres, about the size of the city of Taipei. It holds tall rainforest trees, each some 20 to 30 metres high. There are very precious red sandalwood, nanmu and red cypress, which the state has listed as protected trees that may not be cut. We passed by without going in, and learned about it from Tallado's explanation. (10)
From Canglón to Yaviza was the last stage of the trip, about 25 kilometres and a 30-minute drive. Yaviza is a typical indigenous town. Within an area of no more than 25 square kilometres you can get a taste of the indigenous way of life, from food, clothing, housing and travel to entertainment.
A road about a hundred metres long and about eight metres wide runs through the centre of the town. Along both sides houses and shops stand mixed together. Most are single-storey buildings, none more than one floor high, and some have tin roofs. There are general stores, small eating places and craft stalls, and there is also a small inn.
Yaviza is surrounded by deep mountains, forests and rivers, and it lies where three large rivers meet. Outside the town the scenery is different again.
We came to a sandy riverbank that had been turned into a landing. Several wooden boats loaded with fruit and vegetables, mountain game and fresh flowers were tying up there, and trucks waiting to meet them took the goods off to towns and cities all along the Pan-American Highway.
The landing is also a stop for tour boats, and motorised wooden boats carry tourists across the great river to a cultural village. Besides enjoying indigenous food there, we had our first experience ever of dancing with young men and women dancers, bare from the waist up, to their singing.
Here you can enjoy riding horses and walking across swaying rope bridges, while dugout canoes glide on the river and children play in the water at its edge. Rarely seen elsewhere are the lovely long rows of thatched shelters made of palm leaves and the stilt houses along the riverbank. A peach-blossom land far from the world, without a trace of worldly dust or noise, lay right before our eyes.
Yaviza is where the 26,000-kilometre Pan-American Highway stops within Panama. Further south is the great Río Tuira, which rises in the mountains on the border with Colombia. The area reaches about 50 kilometres deep, with its banks stretching about 80 kilometres from northeast to southwest, and covers about 3,500 square kilometres. It has been called one of the most isolated places on earth, and it is known as the Darién Gap.
This gap is the one stretch of the whole Pan-American Highway that still cannot be crossed. There are no roads and no footprints. It is full of thorns, swamps and thickets, with poisonous snakes and crocodiles everywhere, and it is also a place where drug traffickers do their deals.
We stayed longest in the town of Yaviza and toured these indigenous tribal villages deep in the mountains of Central America to our hearts' content. Though they have been touched by modern civilisation, they have kept their simple original character. Before the sun went down we headed back to the town of Canita. (11)
Perhaps it was by the grace of the Lord that we were drawn to an indigenous wedding that was going on. It was a rare chance, and not one to miss. With Tortolo explaining things to us, we uninvited guests happily joined in the wedding and were warmly received. We raised our glasses in a toast to bless the newlyweds, and so we were held up and set off two hours late.
That evening a crescent moon rose in the east and set in the west, and we were on our way back to Panama City. The moon climbed slowly from among the mountains, and the stars hurried to fill the night sky before it. We crossed mountains and ridges, crossed rivers, and passed a great lake, travelling under the moon and stars, lost in the quiet of the night.
How long has there been a moon in the blue sky? I now set down my cup to ask it. A man may climb, yet cannot reach the bright moon; but as the moon travels, it follows along with him. (青天有月來幾時，我今停杯一問之。人攀明月不可得，月行卻與人相隨。) Before we knew it, we had arrived at the little inn in Canita. (12)
That night we stayed at the little inn again. Tortolo took the chance on the way back to go home for another visit. He invited us to come to his home the next morning, with his good friend Lobo, the innkeeper, to bring us. It would be our second visit, six and a half years after our first in January 1992.
Tortolo's home is up in the mountains northeast of the town. The mountain path is rough and only five feet wide, and you go up either on foot or on horseback.
Lobo parked the car at a landing on the shore of a lake at the foot of the mountain, and introduced us to the man in charge there, who was also a friend of Tortolo's. We crossed the highway and climbed on foot for about 30 minutes to reach Tortolo's mountain village.
The scenery along the path was just as before: a deep blue sky, drifting white clouds, flowing mountain springs, streams and little rivers in the valleys, eagles soaring and butterflies dancing.
Tortolo's wife Salvia had already prepared a table of fine dishes for us, and once again we could taste the unforgettable stir-fried slices of pangolin meat and indigenous barbecue. We had a happy reunion with Tortolo's elder brother, his elder brother's wife, and his niece Vanessa. Vanessa had graduated from a high school in Panama City and had become head of the village primary school.
So once more we came back to this little village in a valley far from the noise of the world and at peace with it, and enjoyed half a day of carefree wandering. Near noon we set off on our way home.
Counting on my fingers, I find it is already more than twenty years ago, gone in the blink of an eye. Panama has a well-known saying: "Whoever has drunk the water of Panama will surely come back." It means that the fine mountains and rivers here make people long for them. (13, end of this chapter)
Written at the End of
The Honking of Migrant Wild Geese (羈旅雁鳴)
On 1 May 2003, my sons Anthony and Anderson pooled their money and bought our present home on Maxson Road in the city of El Monte, Los Angeles County, a detached house of nearly twenty thousand cubic feet. It was the first time in the 23 years since we emigrated abroad in 1980 that we had a house of our own.
My wife and I were living quietly at home in retirement. We made the house even more beautiful, adding to the flowers, trees and swimming pool already there, and it gave me a comfortable place for reading and writing.
I wondered whether I might follow the example of famous people and try writing a memoir. For one thing, it would pass the time. For another, it would leave the children a written record they could look back on in later years.
My father sent me manuscript paper from Taipei, 25 squares by 24 lines, 600 characters to a page, enough for 300,000 characters. And so I began my writing life, chasing my dream of being a writer.
I scribbled away for two years, revising again and again and crossing out again and again, and to my surprise I finished my first book manuscript, 100,000 characters long. It told of my childhood, from what my parents told me and from my own memories.
My father wanted to call the book "Ten Years Adrift, Watching Mountains and Rivers" (十年流離看山河), but my mother named it "Those Stormy Years of My Homeland" (江山風雨). I chose "Those Stormy Years of My Homeland."